Abstract

The increasing resource pressure and the expanding amount of textile waste have been rising recycling as a clear priority for the fashion and apparel industry. However, textile recycling remains limited and is therefore a targeted issue in the forthcoming EU policies. As the fashion industry is embedded in complex value chains, enhancing textile recycling entails a comprehensive understanding of the existing challenges. Yet, the literature review suggests only limited empirical studies in the sector, and a dedicated state-of-the-art is still lacking. Filling this gap, a Delphi study was conducted supplemented by the Regnier’s Abacus technique. Through an iterative, anonymous, and controlled feedback process, the obstacles collected from the extant literature were collectively discussed with a representative panel of 28 experts, compared to the situation in Europe. After two rounds, the lack of eco-design practices, the absence of incentive policies, and the lack of available and accurate information on the product components emerged as the most consensual statements. Linking theory to practice, this paper aims to improve consistency in the understanding of the current state of textile recycling in Europe, while providing an encompassing outline of the current experts’ opinion on the priority challenges for the sector.

Highlights

  • With the rise of the globalization, the fashion industry has become a significant worldwide business based upon lengthy and geographically fragmented value chains [2,3]

  • This paper aims to answer the following research questions: What are the current impediments in the textile recycling value chain? What are the priority challenges to address in order to enhance textile recycling in the sector? To achieve these research objectives, a systematic review was conducted to identify the recurring challenges acknowledged in the existing literature on textile recycling

  • The categories encompass critical aspects of textile recycling, thereby allowing to evaluate the reviewed challenges in relation to the value chain described in the first section of the paper

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Summary

Introduction

With the rise of the globalization, the fashion industry has become a significant worldwide business (the global apparel market has been estimated in value to USD 1.5 trillion in2020 [1]) based upon lengthy and geographically fragmented value chains [2,3]. CO2 emissions [3] with the main environmental impacts imputed to the raw materials and manufacturing activities [8,10,11] This accelerated fashion consumption has led to the perception of clothes as disposable items, decreasing the garment’s lifetime [9,12,13,14,15,16]. Such a completely linear or “take make waste” model has resulted in an expanding amount of discarded textiles in Europe [3,12,14,16].

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