15 - Multi-ply processing of styles from intricate pattern textiles

Abstract

Multi-ply spreading and cutting of styles from intricate pattern fabrics can be performed manually and in a semiautomated way. The manual processing is performed in two work steps. During the first spreading, fabric plies are laid on top of each other matching their pattern. Laser beams, overhead projectors, and metal pins are used to ease pattern-matching process. The second spreading of roughly cut components may be performed in three different ways to increase pattern-matching precision and to perform fine cutting. Fusible components are respread and cut the third time after their fixing with interlining. Although the manual processing can ensure good pattern-matching quality, it is complicated and time- and work consuming. Semiautomated methods involve additional tools and software to increase productivity and ease the work process. Specialized needle tables and overhead projectors are used to ease pattern coordination in between fabric plies. Initial markers are created by nesting software. They are adjusted to the pattern of every multi-ply spread moved on the cutting table directly before its processing. Cutting is performed by an automated cutter increasing significantly cutting quality and productivity. Existing manual and semiautomated multi-ply fabric spreading methods cannot ensure balanced/perfect fabric ply structure and pattern to perform the most efficient pattern matching and avoid fabric loss obtained compensating pattern-matching imprecisions.