10 - Automated laser cutting of textile materials

Abstract

Gantry and galvanometer CO2 laser systems are used to cut a wide range of textile materials. A laser system consists of a laser cutting tool, an optical system to guide the laser cutting tool, a software to control the laser, the work surface to support processed material, and the extraction system to draw away the smoke particles and soiling. Through cutting, kiss cutting, engraving, and marking can be created in vector or raster modes. Laser treatment is performed on a static or conveyorized perforated metal plate or metal grid kind of work surface to keep the fabric flat and fixed, minimize ‘reflection burns’, and support the extraction system to lead away cutting emissions. The most important cutting parameters are laser power, focal position, focal length, nozzle size, distance between the nozzle and the cut material, and cutting gas pressure. Large-format gantry laser cutting systems have similar design, work principles, and application as automated knife cutting systems in processing textiles. They are used for through-cutting, engraving, and marking mostly wide materials, rarely for narrow textiles. They can be supplemented with different automation elements, thus ensuring very high cutting precision. The design of the gantry system limits its cutting speed. Galvanometer laser systems are several times faster than gantry laser systems. Because of limited size work surface, they are used for cutting, engraving, marking of small components. The productivity of the work process can be raised using additional material handling equipment. Laser finishing is used to decorate different kinds of textiles. Because of high-precision accuracy and speed, it replaces many traditional textile finishing methods, such as printing, discolouration, embroidering, and many denim finishing methods. Different finishing effects can be obtained on denim changing process parameters: speed, laser power, and the size of the focal point. Laser finishing equipment can be divided into groups depending on the laser power and work surface used to ensure higher or lower work productivity. In performing appliqués and anglaise embroideries, the laser trough cutting and kiss cutting are used. Three types of laser equipment are used to cut out and/or engrave/mark embroidered fabrics: single-head integrated lasers, standalone lasers, and laser bridges. Textiles of different origins differently react on laser treatment creating different kinds of changes in the material structure. The cut-edge quality can be optimized greatly in every concrete application.