15세기 중국에서 유행한 조선의 마미군 패션, 그 문화적 변용에 대하여

Abstract

The shape of the skirts of Chosŏn women was a dressy and wide throughout the Chosŏn Dynasty. So, there was a device to maintain the volume of the skirt. Usually several layers of undergarments were worn, which served as support for the skirt to look fuller. In the Chosŏn Dynasty, women''s underwear not only played a sanitary role, but was also a part of fashion. At that time, women had to wear several layers of underwear under their skirts to follow the fashion of Chosŏn. A lot of fabric is needed, and these fabrics aren''t cheap either. In Cheju Island(濟州島), agriculture was not developed, making it difficult to produce textiles, so they had to go to land cities by boat to purchase them. Cheju people wanted to find a more economical way, and that was mamigun(馬尾裙). In Cheju Island, it was more economical to wear a petticoat made of horsehair than to wear multiple layers of underwear when trying to create the effect of making a skirt look dressy. On land in Chosŏn, cotton fabrics are cheaper, but in Cheju Island, it is difficult to find fabrics, but horsehair was easy to find. In the end, Cheju''s economic environment changed the materials of clothing. Mamigun was ‘the product of cultural transformation’ that followed the fashion of Chosŏn and replaced the material with horsehair, common in Cheju, instead of textiles. Mamigun, born in Cheju in the 15th century, was a unique ''petticoat'' in that an underskirt was made of horsehair. In the West(西歐), the petticoat made from horsehair, crinoline, was also popular in the 19th century. Horsehair was used as a material for petticoats for women''s dresses in both East and West. The mamigun, born in Cheju, was transmitted to the ''Jiangnan(江南)'' region of Ming through maritime trade in the 15th century, and became very popular in the the Jiangnan area of Ming dynasty. Through mamigun, it is possible to confirm the existence of ''horsehair'', which was used as a petticoat material in both East and West, as well as the new material and shape of clothes on Cheju Island, the change of culture within Chosŏn, the history of wide cultural exchange between Chosŏn and the Ming dynasty.