조선 후기 학창의 연구

Abstract

Hakchangui is an article of clothing derived from Taoism and called Hakchang. Based on the relevance to Hakchang in the Ming dynasty, this study examines the public reaction to, function, and form of Hakchangui in the 17th and 18th century Joseon Dynasty and attempts to understand the change of Hakchangui in the 19th century. In the Ming Dynasty, Hakchangui was worn by the Taoists, the scholars who escaped power and lived a life of the world and the people in general. Jikryeong has no closures at the center front and no slits at the sides or back. In the 17th and 18th centuries, Hakchangui of the Joseon Dynasty was worn as a daily attire of the Scholar-officials. It is similar to the Hakchang of the Ming Dynasty in that it has wide sleeves, collars, sleeves, and hemlines. However, it is a combined shape of a cloak and differs in composition, shape, collars, and front closure. In the 19th century, Hakchangui was a with a black line on the Changui and had a back slit in the form of Jikryonggyoim, whose collar is straight and the hem crossed with back slits. Hakchangui was inner under official attire in the early 19th century, and it is estimated that it began to be used at the end of the 18th century when the policy of changing the Changui worn as an inner robe of court uniform to a white unlined garment worn as a base when wearing a uniform was implemented. The sleeveless Queja type of Hakchangui has been worn since the 17th century, and it lasted until the 19th century and was worn as innerwear like the Jikryonggyoim type of Hakchangui. Based on the Hakchang system of the Ming Dynasty in the 17th and 18th centuries, Hakchangui in the late Joseon Dynasty showed a small portion of its composition characteristics. Around the 19th century, it was separated from Hakchang in the Ming Dynasty and developed into a unique style of Joseon.