고려시대 자수 유물을 통해 본 기법연구

Abstract

This study considered the craft historical value and characteristics of Goryeo Dynasty embroidery. In this study, the existing Goryeo embroidery artifacts were classified and analyzed and the data were compared with historical records of adjacent times. The Goryeo Dynasty is a time in which records of embroidery and artifacts are confirmed, and the techniques shown in embroidery artifacts are considered as extremely important feeds that can shed light on the historical contexts of Korean embroidery crafts. There are a total of 8 artifacts identified as Goryeo embroideries and can be identified as Bul-Bok-Jang-Mul(佛腹藏物, sacred objects enshrined in Buddhist statues) or passed down artifacts. Such include: Woljeongsa useum’s 〈Embroidered Incense Pouch on Complex Gauze(繡羅香囊)〉. Onyang Folk Museum’s 〈Pouch〉, a Bul-Bok-Jang-Mul of their Amitabha Buddha. Central Buddhist Museum’s 〈Incense Pouch(香囊)〉 and 〈Norigae〉, Bul-Bok-Jang-Mul of Janggoksa Temple. Songgwangsa Museum’s 〈Embroidered Twill Damask(刺繡 紋綾)〉 a Bul-Bok-Jang-Mul of Jawunsa Temple. Andong Taesa Shrine(安東 太師廟)’s 〈Embroidered Non-Patterned Twill(刺繡 無紋綾)〉. Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art’s 〈Embroidered Amitabha(刺繡 阿彌陀如來圖)〉. Museum of Korean Embroidery’s 〈Embroidered Folding Screen of Potted Plants in Four Seasons(四季盆景圖)〉. The origin and historical characteristics of each artifact were identified and the embroidery techniques and materials and patterns used were studied. Techniques can be classified into 15 types; Jeom-Su (Dot Stitch), Seun-Su(Straight Stitch), Pyeong-Su(Satin Stitch), Ga-Reum-Yi-Eum-Su(Split Stitch), Yi-Eum-Su(Outline Stitch), Ga-Reum-Su, Ja-Ryeon-Su(Long and Short Stitch), Ja-Ri-Su(Mat Stitch), Jing-Geum-Su(Couching Stitch), Mae-Deub-Su(Knot Stitch), Sok-Su(Padded Stitch), Nap-Su(Counted Stitch), Ga-Jang-Ja-Ri-Su(Blanket Stitch or Buttonhole Stitch), Sa-Seul-Jing-Geum-Su(“Chain Couching Stitch”), Ol-Lyeo-But-Im-Su(Applique). Although comparison study with the Three Kingdoms and Unified Silla Period is difficult due to its lack of embroidery artifacts, it seems that most of the basic techniques, which are now called traditional embroidery, had started to be used in earnest from Goryeo Dynasty at the latest. We were also able to examine the interaction between the neighboring countries primarily with Liao Dynasty, Song and Yuan Dynasty through techniques of embroidery artifacts.