기산 풍속화의 항라직기 복원에 관한 연구

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to restore the Hang-ra loom of late Joseon Dynasty that had appared in the painting “A weaving Hang-ra(亢羅: leno weave type)”, painted by Gisan Kim Jun-geun. The intention of this study is to identify a traditional Hang-ra loom within the history of Hang-ra in 1888, when the genre painting was purchased. The methods of this study are threefold, consisting of a historical investigation of Hang-ra and Hang-ra looms through the literature, a comparative analysis of the loom and its parts done by pictures and artifact materials, and test weaving of the restored Hang-ra loom. Gisan’s Hang-ra loom has a “separated front leg” structure and highly sloped poles as the traditional looms in Gisan’s other genre painting. Therefore, it is assumed that the Hang-ra loom is the traditional Korean Hang-ra loom with local characteristics of Wonsan. However, the prototype of the restored Hang-ra loom, which was built based on the Gisan’s Hang-ra loom, was unsuccessful in weaving Hang-ra. It is assumed that the Gisan had misdescribed or omitted several details, because of their insufficient understanding of its weaving mechanism, as many other painters of genre painting. In the following process of correcting the restored Hang-ra loom, the position of the “Nullimdae” which had interfered with the movement of warp thread has been changed. Also, to recover the insufficient movement of heddle, a traditional tool called “Bigeomi” has been added, opening the warp upward. This study restores the traditional backstrap treadle Hang-ra loom that had disappeared from the folklore history, finds several complementary points, and demonstrates that the restored Hang-ra loom has succeeded in weaving Hang-ra. It is meaningful that the range of traditional fabrics could be expanded, as Hang-ra has been examined.