조선후기 궁중 정재 여령(女伶)의 황초삼(黃綃衫) 연구

Abstract

Hwangcho-sam (黃綃衫) is a garment worn by Yeoryeong, a court dancer in the late Joseon Dynasty when performing Jeongjae (dance). It is divided into general Jeongjae Yeoryeong usage and Chunaengjeon Jeongjae Yeoryeong usage. There is a difference between the sleeve shape, length, component items, names, and materials. This study examines the changes in the form of these two Hwangcho-sam by period, focusing on Uigwe and picture data, which are records of court banquets from the end of the 18th century to the 19th century. The research results are as follows. The names of the general version of Hwangcho-sam were ‘Hwangcho-sam’, ‘Hwangcho-dan-sam’, and ‘Hwangcho-ui’. The shape shows three changes. In the 1st period (1795-1827), it was a double robe, and it was worn with a robe with a square collar worn on the outside and a robe with a straight collar worn inside. In the 2nd period (1829), it was a single robe with a square collar. The 3rd period (1848-1892) was also a single robe, similar to the second period, but only the details are slightly different. Only one material, the yellow color Cho (綃), was used throughout. The names of the Chunaengjeon version were ‘Hwangcho-sam’, ‘Hwangcho-dan-sam’, and ‘Na-sam’. It shows three shape changes like the general version. In the 1st period (1828), Mu-dong (child dancer) danced Chunaeng-mu and wore Mu-dong attire. From the second period (1829), Yeoryeong danced Chunaeng-mu, which was differentiated by adding only Hapi to the same form as Hwangcho-sam for general Yeoryeong. In the 3rd period (1848-1892), the form was different from that of the general version, especially since the sleeves became longer and wider, so a Bigu (臂韝) was used to close the ends of the sleeves. In addition, an ornament called ‘Bang-ryeong’ is attached. The material differentiates between practice use and primary event use. Cho (綃) was used for practice, and Gapsa (甲紗) with a pattern was used for the main event, also called ‘Na-sam’. In previous studies, the ‘Na-sam’ of this patterned Gapsa material was also understood as the name and material for the general version. Still, it was confirmed that this needs to be reconsidered.