Антропологічний поворот як феномен рефлексії у моді ХХ–ХХІ століть

Abstract

The purpose of the article is to determine the socio-cultural determinants of the systemsbuilding of fashion activity interpretation as a factor of harmonization of global problems of thetimes. The research methodology has used comparative and systematic approaches to helpto define fashion as a system of changes and innovations in the context of anthropologicalissues. Philosophical methods such as the transcendental help to clarify how changes infashion innovation in the age of globalization are possible; how the changes themselves (thephenomenological method) become obvious; as one cycle of fashion innovation transforms intoanother. The method of cultural and historical reconstruction helps to identify fashion artefactsas a phenomenon of modern culture. Scientific novelty. The anthropological turn focuses onthe anthropic dimension of fashion, which testifies to the anthropological dependence of motivetheocentricism and zoomorphism. Conclusions. It is proved that in the theory of modern aestheticthought, art, cultural studies determine three turns: anthropological, semiotic and visual. As ithappens, these turns are bred in time and it is believed that the anthropological come beforethe semiotic. The issues of discourse, text, sign transform the man’s problem, which wassharply marked at the turn of the 19th–20th centuries, into the plane of linguistic adequacy. Theanthropological turn reflects the present situation, which presents the excessive, more, extremelyextravagant reality of the visualization of the world, a new optics, a panoptic universe that enablesthe media, advertising, virtual reality to show, present, expand the world of information so muchso man is in the multivariate space of the multidimensional screen world. The screen becomesso active and active that it actually eliminates physical and identity problems as an ontologicalpredicate. The ontological transformations in the fashion of the twentieth century are defined inthe context of this article through the prism of cultural practices of the present day.