ТРАНСФОРМАЦІЇ УКРАЇНСЬКОГО НАЦІОНАЛЬНОГО ВБРАННЯ В КОСТЮМІ ДРАМАТИЧНОГО ТЕАТРУ ХХ СТОЛІТТЯ

Abstract

As an object of scientific discourse, the costume has a wide thematic focus. Its different types (historical, traditional, theatrical) had always been correlated in their development. This article aims to generalize the ways and methods of transformation of the Ukrainian national clothes in theatrical patterns of domestic performances of various historical periods of the 20th century. It was important for us to clarify stylistics and typology of stage apparel related to the use of national forms or particular motives. Methods that we used in the article allow to conduct historical comparative analysis partially using the reconstruction method. Within the scope of formal stylistic method, the category of motive was developed. Within the scope of iconography, an analysis of metaphor in theatrical costume was conducted. At the same time, we separately used the semiotic method to study meanings of clothes of modernism and postmodernism periods. Because meaning of the stage costume of the avant-garde time, created using the coded systems of conventional theatre, formed a new artistic spirituality. The novelty of the indicated problem is conditioned on generalizing context of the posed problem in its historical endurance and cultural typologies. Conclusions of the article are based on the hierarchical system of considered examples that demonstrate different meanings of the costume in performances of main periods of the Ukrainian theatre history: classic character of the image and professionalism of the creation in the Coryphaeus Theatre; blossom of artistic innovations in the costume of avant-garde performances; decline of the image as positive in the totalitarian period of 1930–1950s; revival in 1960–1980s and eventually polystylistics of costumes in the performances of Ukrainian Independence period.