Wind Wave Parameters Research Articles

Variations in wind wave parameters measured in the coastal waters of north-eastern Bay of Bengal

Variations in wind wave parameters measured in the coastal waters of north-eastern Bay of Bengal

Spectral analysis of oscillatory wind wave parameters in fetch-limited deep-water conditions at a small reservoir and their prediction: Case Study of the Hulín Reservoir in the Czech Republic

Abstract The dams and banks of small water reservoirs face significant erosion from wind-generated oscillatory waves. Proper design of structure height is crucial to protect such banks against erosion, considering the maximum characteristics of wind waves. Long-term measurements at the Hulín reservoir revealed that the wave spectrum aligns best with the Bretschneider type. This spectrum serves as a basis for simulating oscillatory waves and their impact on shore protection structure design. Empirical models were evaluated using wind and wave data from Hulín reservoir in the Czech Republic. The measured wind speeds attained a maximum of 8 m/s, and wave heights reached up to 15 cm. The Bretschneider (SMB) empirical formula provided the most accurate estimation of wave height (H m 0), with an average underestimate of RMSE = 0.038 m. On the other hand, Wilson revisited (WIL rev.) performed less effectively, with an average RMSE = 0.304 m. For wave period (T) estimation, Bretschneider (SMB) yielded the best results, with an average RMSE = 0.062 s. Conversely, Wilson revisited (WIL rev.) showed poorer performance, with an average underestimate of RMSE = 2.196 s. The discrepancy between the empirical formulas and measured values, particularly in underestimating H m 0, can be attributed to inaccurate determination of fetch length and wind speed.

Multivariate probability analysis of wind-wave actions on offshore wind turbine via copula-based analysis

Floating structures in service encounter extreme natural hazards, such as correlated extreme wind-wave loads. This study aims to provide realistic multivariate models of environmental parameters to accurately describe the statistical characteristics of metoceanic conditions, which are essential for the reliability-based design of marine structures. The multiload analysis method includes three major steps: (1) to identify the best-fit univariate marginal distributions of the wind-wave parameters. Mixed models composed of a set of single-mode parametric distributions were found to be more suitable for the measured variables. (2) To construct joint probability distributions of multiple variables using copula-based models, the performance of various models namely, trivariate metaelliptical copulas, Archimedean copulas, and vine copula models. It was observed that joint distributions can be best modelled using vine copula models with considerable flexibility. The final process involves establishing environmental surfaces and contours based on the inverse first-order reliability method. The most unfavourable combination of extreme design conditions can be defined on the environmental surface which is useful for evaluating the response characteristics of offshore wind turbines. These expressions provide a preliminary assessment of wind-wave loads on offshore structures.

Wandering albatrosses exert high take-off effort only when both wind and waves are gentle

The relationship between the environment and marine animal small-scale behavior is not fully understood. This is largely due to the difficulty in obtaining environmental datasets with a high spatiotemporal precision. The problem is particularly pertinent in assessing the influence of environmental factors in rapid, high energy-consuming behavior such as seabird take-off. To fill the gaps in the existing environmental datasets, we employed novel techniques using animal-borne sensors with motion records to estimate wind and ocean wave parameters and evaluated their influence on wandering albatross take-off patterns. Measurements revealed that wind speed and wave heights experienced by wandering albatrosses during take-off ranged from 0.7 to 15.4 m/s and 1.6 to 6.4 m, respectively. The four indices measured (flapping number, frequency, sea surface running speed, and duration) also varied with the environmental conditions (e.g., flapping number varied from 0 to over 20). Importantly, take-off was easier under higher wave conditions than under lower wave conditions at a constant wind speed, and take-off effort increased only when both wind and waves were gentle. Our data suggest that both ocean waves and winds play important roles for albatross take-off and advances our current understanding of albatross flight mechanisms.

Wandering albatrosses exert high take-off effort only when both wind and waves are gentle.

The relationship between the environment and marine animal small-scale behavior is not fully understood. This is largely due to the difficulty in obtaining environmental datasets with a high spatiotemporal precision. The problem is particularly pertinent in assessing the influence of environmental factors in rapid, high energy-consuming behavior such as seabird take-off. To fill the gaps in the existing environmental datasets, we employed novel techniques using animal-borne sensors with motion records to estimate wind and ocean wave parameters and evaluated their influence on wandering albatross take-off patterns. Measurements revealed that wind speed and wave heights experienced by wandering albatrosses during take-off ranged from 0.7 to 15.4 m/s and 1.6 to 6.4 m, respectively. The four indices measured (flapping number, frequency, sea surface running speed, and duration) also varied with the environmental conditions (e.g., flapping number varied from 0 to over 20). Importantly, take-off was easier under higher wave conditions than under lower wave conditions at a constant wind speed, and take-off effort increased only when both wind and waves were gentle. Our data suggest that both ocean waves and winds play important roles for albatross take-off and advances our current understanding of albatross flight mechanisms.

Influence of Hydrophobic Dust Particles on the Parameters of Wind Waves in the Generation Zone

Influence of Hydrophobic Dust Particles on the Parameters of Wind Waves in the Generation Zone

Wind Waves Web Atlas of the Russian Seas

The main parameters of wind waves in the World Ocean are connected with global climate change. Renewable energy technologies, intensive shipping, fishery, marine infrastructure, and many different human marine activities in the coastal zone and open sea need knowledge about the wind-wave climate. The main motivation of this research is to share various wind wave parameters with high spatial resolution in the coastal zone via a modern cartographic web atlas. The developed atlas contains information on 13 Russian Seas, including the Azov, Black, Baltic, Caspian, White, Barents, Kara, Laptev, East Siberian, Chukchi, Bering Seas, the Sea of Okhotsk, and the Sea of Japan/East Sea. The analysis of wave climate was based on the results of wave modeling by WAVEWATCH III with input NCEP/CFSR wind and ice data. The web atlas was organized using the classic three-tier architecture, which includes a data storage subsystem (database server), a data analysis and publishing subsystem (GIS server), and a web application subsystem that provides a user interface for interacting with data and map services (webserver). The web atlas provides access to the following parameters: mean and maximum significant wave height, wave length and period, wave energy flux, wind speed, and wind power. The developed atlas allows changing the map scale (zoom) for detailed analysis of wave parameters in the coastal zones where the wave model spatial resolution is 300–1000 m.

40 Years Extreme Offshore Waves off the Eastern Continental Shelf of Rio Grande do Norte, Northeast Brazil

Unplanned occupation and extreme metocean events bring disasters to coastal lowlands. Such processes have promoted damages to backshore structures along the Rio Grande do Norte State (RN), Northeast Brazil, harming goods, industries, tourism, traditional populations and sensitive ecosystems. The RN’s coast lacks long-term monitoring data of metocean drivers, which are useful for decision-takers. This study aims to assess extreme ocean waves off RN’s continental shelf. Time series of wind speed, tide and wave parameters have been obtained from AVISO satellite altimetry and ERA5 reanalysis, between 1979 and 2021, in a virtual station at 6.0ºS/34.7ºW. Generalized Pareto Distribution (GPD) fitting of wave significant high (Hs) was performed. Registers of disasters along the coast of study area were collected from local online media. Waves have reached Hs maximum of 3.30 m, average of 0.76 m, coming from east-southeast and southeast. Winter and spring seasons have presented higher waves, related to action of trade winds. Wind speed occurred mainly between 6 and 8 m/s. GPD estimated Hs increasing 2 (summer, winter and spring) and 2.4 times (autumn) above its average, each 2 years. Per decade, Hs may overcome 2.7 times its average in autumn – season that presented the highest proportion of increasing. Previous increasing of wind speed is more important than its scalar value, to form an extreme wave. Hs at the virtual station had its upper peak either at the same day or one-two days before of coastal damage, which means that ocean storms offshore can propagate coastward quickly.

Моделирование ветрового волнения в море Лаптевых, Восточно-Сибирском и Чукотском морях

The paper presents an analysis of wind wave parameters in the Laptev, East Siberian and Chukchi seas based on the results of numerical experiments with the WAVEWATCH III wave model for a period from 1979 to 2021. Wave modeling was carried out using an unstructured computational grid with a high resolution (up to 800 m) in the coastal zone. The NCEP/CFSR/CFSv2 reanalysis was used as wind forcing. The maps of the long-term mean values of the wave height, wave length and period were obtained. For the several points in the central part of each sea, the mean annual values of wave heights are calculated and the analysis of interannual variability is carried out. The maximum significant wave height was 5–6 m in the Laptev Sea, 6–7 m in the East Siberian Sea, and 7–7.5 m in the Chukchi Sea. The analysis of interannual variability showed that there is a positive trend in wave height for all seas under consideration. The largest increase in the annual mean wave height is observed in the East Siberian Sea (from 0.4 to 1.4 m in the ice-free period). Keywords: Laptev Sea, Chukchi Sea, East Siberian Sea, wave modeling, Arctic wind waves, WAVEWATCH III

Analysis of current influence on the wind wave parameters in the Black Sea based on SWAN simulations

Analysis of current influence on the wind wave parameters in the Black Sea based on SWAN simulations

A Joint Method for Wave and Wind Field Parameter Inversion Combining SAR with Wave Spectrometer Data

Synthetic aperture radar (SAR) and wave spectrometer are common methods for observing the ocean wind field and waves on the sea surface, but both have limitations. Due to the influence of velocity bunching modulation, SAR wave observation is limited by the azimuth cut-off phenomenon. Meanwhile, SAR relies on an external wind direction source, so it is difficult for SAR to observe wind fields independently. There is no azimuthal cut-off phenomenon when the spectrometer observes the sea surface, but its azimuth resolution is much lower than SAR. Combining the above characteristics, the joint inversion of SAR and wave spectrometer for sea-state parameters becomes possible. In this paper, a joint method for wind field and wave parameter inversion combining SAR with spectrometer data is proposed. In this method for wave parameter inversion, the wave spectrum of the spectrometer was used as a first-guess spectrum of SAR wave spectrum inversion, the fit wave spectrum obtained by joint inversion and the modified wave spectrum of the spectrometer were fused to form a new spectrum, and the wave parameters were calculated. For wind field parameter inversion, wind direction was obtained using a wave spectrometer, and was used as the input of the SAR wind field inversion. Wind speed was obtained using the CMOD5.N method. Collocated data from Sentinel-1 SAR, the wave spectrometer, the National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) buoy, and the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasting (ECMWF) are used to verify the proposed method. Sea parameters retrieved from the spectrometer and SAR are compared to the buoy and ECMWF data. The results show that the root mean square errors of significant wave height, mean wave period, wind direction and wind speed are 0.37 m, 1.02 s, 22.7° and 1.06 m/s with ECMWF data, and 0.35 m, 0.78 s, 18.22° and 0.92 m/s with buoy data, respectively. By comparing the inversion results with the L2 products of SAR and SWIM, it can be concluded that the inversion accuracy of the joint method is higher in the middle and low sea conditions. Therefore, the joint inversion method for wind field and wave parameters proposed in this paper has good results, which verifies the accuracy of the joint inversion method.

Basin scale wind-wave prediction using empirical orthogonal function analysis and neural network models

A new method is discussed using neural network models in combination with empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis for the basin-scale wind-wave forecast. For the Bay of Bengal region EOF analysis has been performed separately on the significant wave height (SWH) data, zonal (U) and meridional (V) components of wind data. For basin scale forecast the dominant principal component (PC) has been subjected to univariate and multivariate neural network models for future predictions. In the univariate approach, only past values of SWH time series are used and in the multivariate approach, U and V time series are used to predict future SWH values. Efficiency in terms of accuracy and speed of four different backpropagation algorithms, namely, Levenberg-Marquardt (LM), Bayesian Regularization (BR), Scaled Conjugate Gradient (SCG) and Fletcher Conjugate Gradient (CGF) have been compared for 1 to 12 multistep ahead time steps and 1 to 13 neurons. After training the models using varied neurons and the PCs, representing the entire basin, the neurons are fixed at which minimum errors are obtained. Further experiments are conducted using the fixed neurons and the PCs for 1 to 12 time steps ahead SWH prediction. Finally independent datasets consisting of normal and cyclonic wind-wave parameters are tested successfully using the above fixed neurons for delays (1 to 12) corresponding to 3 days or 72 h forecast. The novelty of the study lies is the usage of the PCs which represent the entire basin rather than computations at individual locations which are expensive technically and time consuming.

Swell and sea characteristics along the south-west coast of India during the monsoon

Swell and wind–seas generally co-exist in the open ocean, and are often difficult to segregate. Swell and wind–sea characteristics of observed wave spectra at off-Kochi, located along India’s south-west coast in the Arabian Sea during the south-west monsoon are presented. This paper attempts to split the observed wave spectra into individual wave partitions, thereby enabling the computation of integral wave parameters of each partition. The spectra with five partitions is found occur more frequently in the considered season. To extract wind–sea and swell information from the observed directional spectrum, a consistent overshooting phenomenon (OP), Modified Overshooting phenomenon (MOP) and Wave age (WA) method are employed in each partition. The results show a prevalence of mixed sea states. An analysis from WA method shows the absence of young wind seas. The derived wind–wave parameters of the spectral partitioning algorithm agree well with Toba’s 3/2 law with a good correlation. The effectiveness of interaction between the derived swell and sea components is discussed through nonlinear interactions that are occurring between the set of four waves.

ON THE INVESTIGATION OF WIND GENERATED WAVES IN BANGLADESH RIVERS FOR THE ASSESSMENT OF STABILITY REQUIREMENTS IN INLAND VESSEL DESIGN

Standard environmental condition is one of the main inputs in designing a vessel especially in assessment of stability condition. The performance based minimum stability requirements are determined by assessing vessels' dynamic failure modes. Winds as well as wind generated waves are the main factors that affect a specific vessel’s dynamics. Wind generated waves in rivers though are usually small in comparison with ocean waves may play a crucial role behind inland vessels accidents. The river condition of a crucial location in Bangladesh inland river routes is assessed where wind velocities have been taken for a specific duration from a reliable secondary source. A narrow fetch model that considers the wave generation in off-wind direction for estimating wind wave parameters has been used to consider the spiral shape of Bangladesh inland routes. The Bretschneider energy spectrum model for short term wave state is compared with the fetch limited model JONSWAP for the estimated wave condition. This study indicates the rationality of conforming the safety level of Bangladesh inland vessels equivalent to river-sea vessels as defined by other nationals and the classification societies. The wave parameters that are estimated in this study can be used to form a limited wave scatter table for predicting short term environmental conditions to assess the dynamic stability failure modes of the vessels.

Vliyaniye shtormovykh usloviy na izmeneniye granulometricheskogo sostava donnykh otlozheniy v pribrezhnoy zone Zapadnogo Kryma

The aim of this work is to study the dynamics of bottom sediments granulometric fractions in the Kalamitsky Gulf coastal zone near the Lake Sakskoe bay-bar under influence of storm surge based on the XBeach numerical morphodynamic model. A series of numerical experiments has been carried out, in which the parameters of waves at the seaward boundary of the computational domain changed in time, simulating the passage of a cyclonic atmospheric anomaly over the investigated region. The initial distribution of the sediment volume concentrations in different parts of the underwater coastal slope profile was set based on the results of field observations. The duration of model calculations was 24 h. The quantitative characteristics of the spatial distribution of various bottom sediments fractions, sediments median diameter and values of bottom deformations were obtained. It has been established that the main morphodynamic changes occurs in the area 0–120 m from the shoreline and are limited by the 3.5 m isobath. It was noted that the maximum changes in the relief of the coastal zone and the upper section of the underwater coastal slope occur during the development and attenuation phases of a storm. In the same time intervals an intensive redistribution of sandy material is observed. It has been established that, with a change in the parameters of wind waves in time at the seaward boundary, the scales of sand material redistribution and deformations of the coastal zone are higher than in the experiment when the direction of the waves does not change with time at the seaward boundary of the computational domain.

Hydrodynamic Сonditions of the Bakalskaya Spit Degradation (Western Crimea) over the Past 30 Years

urpose. The paper is aimed at studying the morphodynamic features of the Bakalskaya Spit evolution being influenced by the sea wind waves and swell, namely assessment of inter-annual variations in the alluvial (erosion) areas of the Bakalskaya Spit coastline, analysis of inter-annual variability of the wind wave parameters, determination of the surface wave characteristics (or a combination of a few ones) responsible for the processes of the bottom material erosion or accumulation in the coastal zone. Methods and Results. Based on the analysis of satellite images for 1984–2016, the areas of the bottom material accumulation or erosion of the Bakalskaya Spit coastline were determined. Application of the spectral wave model permitted to obtain time series of the main parameters of wind waves and swell (significant wave heights and propagation directions) in the Bakalskaya Spit coastal zone with the 1 hr time resolution for the period from 1984 to 2016. The characteristics of surface waves responsible for the coastline deformation were revealed using the discriminant analysis. Conclusions. Analysis of satellite images of the spit made it possible to distinguish three periods in the history of the Bakalskaya spit evolution: 1985–1997, 1998–2007 and 2007–2016. The first period was characterized by relative stability. The strongest erosion took place in 1998; after that the alluvial and erosion cases alternated for 10 years weakly tending to general erosion that constituted the second period. The third one that began in 2007 can be defined as the period of spit degradation accompanied by the irreversible loss of beach material. The basic parameters conditioning hydrodynamics of the Bakalskaya Spit water area are: total duration of storms; mean and maximum values of significant heights of wind waves and swell. Statistical characteristics of the wind waves’ parameters are of a fairly strong inter-annual variability. According to the mean and maximum indices, the wind waves directed close to the normal to the coastline (WSW and WNW) are the most developed. The applied discriminant analysis permitted to draw a statistically reliable conclusion that the direction of the final (mean annual) wave impact on the coastal zone, conditioning the processes of sand accumulation or erosion was set by the waves directed to NNW, at that the swell contribution was dominant. The impact degree is determined by strong storms with the directions close to the normal to the coastline, namely, the WSW ones.

Gidrodinamicheskiye usloviya degradatsii Bakal'skoy kosy (Zapadnyy Krym)

Purpose. The paper is aimed at studying the morphodynamic features of the Bakalskaya Spit evolution being influenced by the sea wind waves and swell, namely assessment of inter-annual variations in the alluvial (erosion) areas of the Bakalskaya Spit coastline, analysis of inter-annual variability of the wind wave parameters, determination of the surface wave characteristics (or a combination of a few ones) responsible for the processes of the bottom material erosion or accumulation in the coastal zone. Methods and Results. Based on the analysis of satellite images for 1984–2016, the areas of the bottom material accumulation or erosion of the Bakalskaya Spit coastline were determined. Application of the spectral wave model permitted to obtain time series of the main parameters of wind waves and swell (significant wave heights and propagation directions) in the Bakalskaya Spit coastal zone with the 1 hr time resolution for the period from 1984 to 2016. The characteristics of surface waves responsible for the coastline deformation were revealed using the discriminant analysis. Conclusions. Analysis of satellite images of the spit made it possible to distinguish three periods in the history of the Bakalskaya Spit evolution: 1985–1997, 1998–2007 and 2007–2016. The first period was characterized by relative stability. The strongest erosion took place in 1998; after that the alluvial and erosion cases alternated for 10 years weakly tending to general erosion that constituted the second period. The third one that began in 2007 can be defined as the period of spit degradation accompanied by the irreversible loss of beach material. The basic parameters conditioning hydrodynamics of the Bakalskaya Spit water area are: total duration of storms; average and maximum values of significant heights of wind waves and swell. Statistical characteristics of the wind waves’ parameters are of a fairly strong inter-annual variability. According to the average and maximum indices, the wind waves directed close to the normal to the coastline (WSW and WNW) are the most developed. The applied discriminant analysis permitted to draw a statistically reliable conclusion that the direction of the final (average annual) wave impact on the coastal zone, conditioning the processes of sand accumulation or erosion was set by the waves directed to NNW, at that the swell contribution was dominant. The impact degree is conditioned by strong storms with the directions close to the normal to the coastline, namely, the WSW ones

Математическое моделирование волнового режима бухты Ай-Тодор

Investigation of wave regime of coastal water areas is practically important for safe shipping, constructing and using of coastal infrastructure objects. At the present paper statistical characteristics and space distribution of parameters of wind waves in the Ay-Todor Bay region placed on the Crimea South Coast of the Black Sea are obtained on the basis of mathematical simulation. Analysis of the wind wave parameters for the year diapason of 1979–2017 has shown that waves running from the east and having 0.5 m heights and 3.0–3.5 s mean periods are the most repeatable. The most durable storms are formed by waves coming from East–South-South-West sector in the period from December to January. The multiannual calm duration is equal to ~11 days. Estimation of extremal characteristics (height, period and length) of wind waves of different probability, which possible one time in a year, 5, 10, 25, 50 and 100 years are made. For the storm probable one time in 25 years the mean wave height near the boundary of the Ay-Todor Bay is equal to 4.5 m. For this storm the wave height of 1% probability reaches 9.6 m. For the directions of winds of 4 % regime probability which causes the most dangerous waves calculations of wave characteristics with high space resolution (~1.5 m) are carried out by using of SWAN model and nested grid technology. Fields of significant wave height, mean wave length, bottom wave orbital velocities and space distribution of wave breaking zones are analyzed. It is found that most intensive waves are generated by wind having south-east, east and south directions. Maximal bottom orbital velocities of wave current reaches of 2.5–3.5 m/s and occurs along the coast till 10 m depth. Model calculation of wave currents by using of SWASH model allowed obtained presence in the coastal zone near beach of local cyclonic eddy, which transport suspended sediments along its south edge from beach towards the sea.

Teleconnection Between ENSO and Wind-Wave Climate Under the Influence of Monsoon in the Bay of Bengal Region

Wind-wave parameters like the significant wave height (SWH)impacts considerably deep ocean and maritime activities and lives of all those dwelling near the coast.Prediction of such a parameter has immense utility during extreme conditions. Teleconnection features are explored between the most widely studied climate mode, the El Niño-Southern Oscillation or ENSO and the SWHparameter in the Bay of Bengal (BB) region under the influence of monsoon in this study.In two separate experiments the SWH data of the BB region for the period 1958-2001 and the period 2006-2016 is subjected to empirical orthogonal function analysis to split the data into spatial and temporal parts.The temporal variations are of annual periodicity for both the data sets. On analysis teleconnection feature of lower (higher) SWH during El Niño (La Niña) episodes is observed in the BB region. Significant correlationis observed between SWH and the ENSO indices during the summer monsoon months.The continuous wavelet power spectrum is generated using the first principal component (PC1) extracted above. It exhibits significant regions in the 0.5-1 year band resembling the monsoon variability in the BB region. To determine how SWH is related to the ENSO indices wavelet coherence is applied for the BB region.The higher coherency regions are found in the 0.5-1 year band which maybe related to the monsoon oscillation having similar periodicity. Thus the SWH and ENSO relationship in the BB region is influenced by the monsoon significantly.

Influence of water area depth on wind waves

A semi-empirical technique for calculating the parameters of wind waves at variable sea depths along the wind acceleration has been developed and presented. This technique allows you to determine the average values of wind wave heights, their length and period depending on the wind velocity, taking into account and without taking into account the heaping of water by wind. Within the framework of the described method, the calculations of wind wave parameters suitable for isobaths d = 20 m were performed for a specific study area of the Bistre (Novostambulske) branch of the Danube estuary, for the north-eastern and eastern wind directions. Numerical simulations were performed for the Black Sea in the location of the protection dam of the Maritime approach channel of the Danube-Black Sea deep-sea navigation. Numerical calculations of wind wave transformation in the water area near the protection dam for the most dangerous wind directions in stormy conditions were performed. For mathematical simulation, the maximum values of wind velocity and wave height were used, which were observed during the whole period of research of the Black Sea water area in the region of the dam. Within the framework of refraction theory, wave transformation calculations have been performed for the most wave-hazardous wind acceleration directions, namely, the north-eastern and eastern wind directions. It is shown that taking into account the heaping of water by wind leads to an increase in the parameters of gravitational waves. The results of numerical simulations have shown that with the increase of wind acceleration exceeding the limit values, the parameters of the waves reach constant values. These values depend on the bathymetry of the seabed, wind velocity and direction. It was found that the increase in the deviation of the free surface of the sea from the undisturbed level significantly depends on the heaping of water by wind. It was found that the relative increase in the wave parameters is observed higher in the east wind direction than in the northeast wind direction in the study area of the Black Sea.