Use In Skin Care Products Research Articles

EUPHORBIA CERIFERA CERA (CANDELILA) EMOLLIENT PROPERTIES, USES AND EFFECTIVENESS IN SKINCARE PRODUCTS

Candelila wax, derived from Euphorbia cerifera cera, is a natural and sustainable component that has a wide range of uses in cosmetic products. This review article explores the chemical composition, extraction techniques, and attributes of Candelila wax, with a focus on its distinctive qualities that make it highly useful in the cosmetic business. Candelila wax has been extensively studied and researched, and these studies have shown that it is highly useful in skincare. It has been found to provide significant benefits in terms of moisturizing the skin, protecting it, and improving the function of the skin barrier. The emollient and moisturizing qualities of this substance enhance skin hydration, while its film-forming capacity creates a protective barrier against environmental stresses. In addition, the non-comedogenic properties and potential anti-inflammatory effects of Candelila wax make it highly suitable for a range of skin types, including those that are sensitive or prone to acne. The future outlook for Candelila wax in cosmetics entails investigating the potential benefits of combining it with other natural substances, creating new and advanced methods of delivering it, and embracing sustainable methods of sourcing and processing. By conducting meticulously planned clinical trials, the effectiveness and safety of the substance may be verified, thereby establishing robust scientific proof for its use in skincare products. By recognizing the possibilities of Candelila wax, we may explore environmentally responsible and skin-conscious cosmetic procedures that align with the changing tastes of mindful customers. By utilizing the potent properties of this natural substance, the cosmetic industry can lead the path towards a more environmentally friendly and enduring future in the field of skincare products.

Discovery of Novel Diesters Incorporating Kojic Acid With NSAIDs and Palmitic Acid as Dual Inhibitor of Melanogenesis and Inflammation

Our study focuses on creating hybrid compounds and assessing their suitability for use in skincare products. The synergistic combination of Kojic acid, NSAIDs, and Palmitic acid proved to be an effective approach in inhibiting melanin production, making it a promising solution for individuals with hyperpigmentation concerns with Kojic acid (KA) Ibuprofen monoester (IBUM) and Ibuprofen-Kojic acid-Palmitic acid diester (IBUD) exhibiting a potential tyrosinase (38 % and 49 % inhibition at 200 µM) and anti-melanogenesis activity (77 % and 79 % inhibition at 100 µM). Furthermore, these compounds exhibited potent anti-inflammatory effects, Kojic acid-Diclofenac monoester (DICM) and Diclofenac-Kojic acid-Palmitic acid diester (DICD) offering potential benefits for inflammation by lowering the paw volume. A stability study under chemical conditions and enzymatic conditions was also performed, wherein DICM and DICD showed a better half-life of 515, 593 h under chemical stability and 6.3, 7.5 h under enzymatic stability studies respectively. The diester hybrids IBUD, DICD, Naproxen-Kojic acid-Palmitic acid diester (NAPD) showed a better permeation and penetration profiles compared to their parent drugs. In-vitro cell line studies were conducted to assess the safety and efficacy of these hybrid esters, with promising results. The dual inhibitor demonstrated minimal cytotoxicity and remarkable anti-melanogenic and anti-inflammatory activities, showing its potential as a versatile agent in addressing both melanogenesis and inflammation.

Dermatological effects of Pistacia species: A systematic review

Different parts of Pistacia species are traditionally used to treat various skin problems. Traditional experiences can be a good basis for research on the therapeutic effects of medicinal plants. The active compounds of plants can be identified and used in different disorders in an innovative way. There are several studies that have evaluated the Pistacia species for dermatological disorders. However, despite the valuable effects of the Pistacia species on skin disease, there is no comprehensive review of the dermal effects of these plants. So, in this study, current evidence regarding the dermatological effect of the Pistacia species has been reviewed. Electronic databases including PubMed, Scopus, and Google Scholar were searched for in vivo, in vitro, and clinical studies that examined dermatological effects of Pistacia species. According to the review, most of the evidence of dermatological effects in the Pistacia genus comes from preliminary studies on wound healing, cutaneous leishmaniasis, inflammation caused by UV rays and photo-protection, hyperpigmentation disorders, and atopic dermatitis. The Pistacia genus was implicated in 3 clinical studies and 30 in vivo/in vitro studies showing several mechanisms that go beyond its dermatological effects. The traditional medicinal effects of these herbs are supported by some scientific evidence. The potential protective/therapeutic effects of these herbs need to be studied further so that they can be considered as possible future candidates for use in skin care products.

Antimicrobial Activity of Stilbenes from Bletilla striata against Cutibacterium acnes and Its Effect on Cell Membrane.

The abnormal proliferation of Cutibacterium acnes is the main cause of acne vulgaris. Natural antibacterial plant extracts have gained great interest due to the efficacy and safety of their use in skin care products. Bletilla striata is a common externally used traditional Chinese medicine, and several of its isolated stilbenes were reported to exhibit good antibacterial activity. In this study, the antimicrobial activity of stilbenes from B. striata (BSS) against C. acnes and its potential effect on cell membrane were elucidated by determining the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC), minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC), bacterial growth curve, adenosine triphosphate (ATP) levels, membrane potential (MP), and the expression of genes related to fatty acid biosynthesis in the cell membrane. In addition, the morphological changes in C. acnes by BSS were observed using transmission electron microscopy (TEM). Experimentally, we verified that BSS possessed significant antibacterial activity against C. acnes, with an MIC and MBC of 15.62 μg/mL and 62.5 μg/mL, respectively. The growth curve indicated that BSS at 2 MIC, MIC, 1/2 MIC, and 1/4 MIC concentrations inhibited the growth of C. acnes. TEM images demonstrated that BSS at an MIC concentration disrupted the morphological structure and cell membrane in C. acnes. Furthermore, the BSS at the 2 MIC, MIC, and 1/2 MIC concentrations caused a decrease in the intracellular ATP levels and the depolarization of the cell membrane as well as BSS at an MIC concentration inhibited the expression of fatty acid biosynthesis-associated genes. In conclusion, BSS could exert good antimicrobial activity by interfering with cell membrane in C. acnes, which have the potential to be developed as a natural antiacne additive.

Fermentation of Chenopodium formosanum Leaf Extract with Aspergillus oryzae Significantly Enhanced Its Physiological Activities

Chenopodium formosanum Koidz (CF) is an indigenous cereal plant of Taiwan. Its high content of secondary metabolites and nutrients has attracted attention for its use in skin care products and functional foods. However, most studies have focused on the extract of CF seeds, which are relatively expensive, and none have investigated the effects of combining extraction and fermentation. In this study, we evaluated the utility of using extracts of different parts of CF, i.e., the leaves, stems, and unhulled and hulled seeds. We first made aqueous, ethanolic, methanolic, and ethyl acetate extracts of the four parts. After assessing their biological activities, we selected only unfermented and fermented CF leaf methanolic extracts for subsequent analysis. None of the concentrations of fermented CF leaf extract (≤400 mg/L) were cytotoxic, and all exhibited antioxidative, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, skin-whitening, moisturizing, and antiaging activities. The concentrations of protocatechuic acid, epicatechin, gallic acid, and quercetin increased the most after fermentation. Therefore, they were subjected to a molecular docking analysis, which revealed that quercetin and epicatechin may contribute the most to skin-whitening and antiaging properties, respectively. In conclusion, fermented CF leaf methanolic extracts can be useful as a functional ingredient in health foods, botanical drugs, and cosmetic products.

Hop By-Products: Pharmacological Activities and Potential Application as Cosmetics

Hops (Humulus lupulus L.) are known worldwide as a raw material in beer production due their flavor and preservative values. The beneficial properties of the plant have been mostly associated with the female hop inflorescences (cones), which is also the part used in the brewing industry. However, some studies indicate the presence of compounds associated with health benefits in the vegetative parts of hops or small-caliber cones, which discarded in hop collection. Moreover, large quantities of by-products remain in the forms of spent grains and spent hops/hot trub and are produced by breweries raising environmental and economic sustainability concerns. This review focuses on the phytochemicals and biological and pharmacological activities of hop and their potential use in skin care products and also intends to explore the potential of the hop’ discarded parts and brewery industry by-products for production in the cosmetics industry.

Screening and Research on Skin Barrier Damage Protective Efficacy of Different Mannosylerythritol Lipids.

Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) may prevent skin barrier damage, although their protective mechanisms and active monomeric constituents remain unclear. Here, three MELs were extracted from Candida antarctica cultures containing fermented olive oil then purified using silica gel-based column chromatography and semipreparative HPLC. All three compounds (MEL-A, MEL-B, MEL-C) were well separated and stable, and reliable materials were used for NMR and HRESIMS chemical structure determinations and for assessing MELs’ protective effects against skin damage. Notably, MEL-B and MEL-C effectively protected HaCaT cells from UVB-induced damage by upregulating the contents of filaggrin (FLG) and transglutaminase-1 (TGM1), as determined via ELISA. Moreover, MEL-B treatment (20 μg/mL) of UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells led to the upregulation of both the expression of mRNA genes and the key proteins FLG, LOR, and TGM1, which are known to be decreased in damaged skin cells. Additionally, histopathological analysis results revealed a markedly reduced intracellular vacuolation and cell damage, reflecting improved skin function after MEL-B treatment. Furthermore, immunofluorescence results revealed that MEL-B protected EpiKutis® three-dimensional cultured human skin cells from sodium dodecyl sulfate-induced damage by up-regulating FLG, LOR, and TGM1 expression. Accordingly, MELs’ protection against skin barrier damage depended on MEL-B monomeric constituent activities, thus highlighting their promise as beneficial ingredients for use in skin-care products.

Photoprotective effects of sphingomyelin-containing milk phospholipids in ultraviolet B–irradiated hairless mice by suppressing nuclear factor-κB expression

Ceramide-containing phospholipids improve skin hydration and barrier function and are ideal for use in skin care products. In this study, we evaluated the photoprotective effect of milk phospholipids on the skin condition of UVB-irradiated hairless mice. Skin parameters were assessed following oral administration of milk phospholipids. The UVB irradiation induced photoaging in mice. The animals were divided into 5 groups: a control group (oral administration of saline with no UBV irradiation), UVB group (oral administration of saline with UVB irradiation), and 3 UVB irradiation groups receiving the milk phospholipids at 3 different concentrations of oral administration, 50 mg/kg (ML group), 100 mg/kg (MM group), and 150 mg/kg (MH group), for 8 wk. An increase in skin hydration and transepidermal water loss were improved in the 150 mg/kg of milk phospholipid-administered group. Hematoxylin and eosin staining revealed a decrease in epidermal thickness in the milk phospholipid-administered groups (50, 100, and 150 mg/kg of body weight). In particular, the 100 and 150 mg/kg groups showed significant changes in the area, length, and depth of the wrinkles compared with the UVB group. Moreover, the gene expression of matrix metalloproteins was attenuated, and that of proinflammatory cytokines, especially tumor necrosis factor-α, was significantly reduced in the milk phospholipid-administered groups than in the UVB group. The reduced ceramide and increased sphingosine-1-phosphate levels in the skin tissue due to UVB exposure were restored to levels similar to those of the control group following milk phospholipid administration. These results were confirmed to be due to the downregulation of protein expression of nuclear factor kappa-B (NF-κB) and phosphorylated IκB-α (inhibitor of κB α). Collectively, oral administration of milk phospholipids improves skin health through a synergistic effect on photoprotective activity.

Polyphenol-Rich Olive Mill Wastewater Extract and Its Potential Use in Hair Care Products

In this work, the influence of phenol-enriched olive mill wastewater (OMWW) extract on hair growth was investigated in vitro on human follicle dermal papilla cells. OMWW has already shown great potential for use in skincare products, and its high polyphenol content is predestined to have a positive effect on hair growth. The studies included caffeine, a positive modulator of hair growth, and dihydrotestosterone, which causes hair loss in vivo, as controls. The impact of the investigated compounds on hair growth was evaluated by studies on cell viability and proliferation, the release of growth factors (insulin-like growth factor-1 and vascular endothelial growth factor), and the reduction of reactive oxygen species formation. OMWW showed a positive influence on the proliferation of the human follicle dermal papilla cells. Moreover, the extract leads to a significantly increased secretion of insulin-like growth factor-1, and a considerable reduction in reactive oxygen species formation was observed. Overall, our results show that the investigated phenol-enriched OMWW extract is a promising ingredient for hair care to improve hair growth, prevent hair loss due to oxidative stress and maintain a healthy scalp.

A New Eucalyptol-Rich Lavender (Lavandula stoechas L.) Essential Oil: Emerging Potential for Therapy against Inflammation and Cancer.

Background/Aim: natural products are a potential source for drug discovery and development of cancer chemoprevention. Considering that drugs currently available for the treatment of inflammatory and cancer conditions show undesirable side effects, this research was designed to evaluate, for the first time, the in vitro anticancer activity of Algerian Lavandula stoechas essential oil (LSEO) against different cancer cell lines, as well as its in vitro and in vivo topical and acute anti-inflammatory properties. Materials and Methods: the LSEO was extracted by steam distillation, and chemical composition analysis was performed using gas chromatography. The main compounds identified in LSEO were oxygenated monoterpenes, such as 1,8-Cineole (61.36%). LSEO exhibited a potent anti-inflammatory activity using the xylene-induced mouse ear edema model. Results: LSEO (200 and 20 mg/kg) was able to significantly reduce (p < 0.05) the carrageenan-induced paw edema with a similar effect to that observed for the positive control. Topical application of LSEO at doses of 82 and 410 mg/kg significantly reduced acute ear edema in 51.4% and 80.1% of the mice, respectively. Histological analysis confirmed that LSEO inhibited the skin inflammatory response. Moreover, LSEO was tested for its antitumor activity against different cancer cell lines. LSEO was found to be significantly active against human gastric adenocarcinoma (AGS), Melanoma MV3, and breast carcinoma MDA-MB-231 cells, with median inhibitory concentration (IC50) values of 0.035 ± 0.018, 0.06 ± 0.022 and 0.259 ± 0.089 µL/mL, respectively. Altogether, these results open a new field of investigation into the characterization of the molecules involved in anti-proliferative processes. Conclusion: We suggest that LSEO, with 1,8-Cineole as the major active component, is a promising candidate for use in skin care products with anti-inflammatory and anticancer properties. The results of this study may provide an experimental basis for further systematic research, rational development, and clinical utilization of lavender resources.

Purple tulip extract improves signs of skin aging through dermal structural modulation as shown by genomic, protein expression and skin appearance of volunteers studied.

Purple tulip extract is a rich source of flavonoids which are powerful antioxidants and can hence be considered as an ideal candidate for use in skin care products. We aimed to evaluate the effects of purple tulip extract on skin quality and to determine its molecular modes of interaction. A pangenomic study on human skin fibroblasts was carried out to analyze multiple changes in gene expression. Ex vivo studies of human skin explants exposed to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation or H2 O2 were performed to assess modulations of protein expression. Finally, a clinical assay was carried out to evaluate the efficacy of purple tulip extract on skin appearance and condition of aged women. Genetic modulation analyses led us to infer the induction of many biological functions including cell differentiation, proliferation, migration, inflammatory responses, and matrix remodeling. The ex vivo studies revealed an enhancement of the collagen network and increased expression of glycosaminoglycans (GAG), fibronectin, and collagen VI. Finally, the clinical study highlighted the potential anti-aging properties of the purple tulip extract which decreased the relaxation of the oval face and improved skin elasticity after 28days of treatment. Significant reductions of the length and depth of the nasolabial wrinkles were also observed. Our genomics data on the effect of purple tulip extract on the ex vivo UV-challenged skin showed that genes responsible for, among others, the upkeep of the skin, such as collagen induction, immune cell proliferation, and epidermal repair, were all up-regulated. More importantly, the clinical study corroborated these data by the visible and measurable effects of the topical purple tulip extract on the aged skin of 22 women, further demonstrating the beneficial impact of the extract on aged skin.

Peppermint (Mentha piperita L.) essential oil as a potent anti-inflammatory, wound healing and anti-nociceptive drug

The present investigation was designed to study the chemical composition of Algerian peppermint essential oil (PEO) as well as the in vitro and in vivo anti-inflammatory, wound-healing and anti-nociceptive properties. Twenty-three compounds were identified in the PEO with the main chemical component as menthol (53.29%). Also, PEO showed a high content of oxygenated monoterpene compounds (92.75%). Topical application of PEO at doses of 200 and 20 µL/kg significantly reduced the acute ear edema in 38.09% and 36.50, respectively. Histological observation confirmed that PEO inhibited the skin inflammatory response. In-vivo wound healing activity of the cream prepared from PEO (0.5% w/w) was assessed by circular excision wound model followed by histological examination. The topical administration of PEO cream showed a significant decrease of unhealed wound area rate between the 6th (1.67±0.14 mm2) and the 9th (0.49±0.22 mm2) days of treatment when compared with the vehicle (2.32±0.77 mm2; p<0.05) and Madecassol® 0.1% creams (2.23±0.35 mm2; p<0.05). The PEO reduced nociceptive behavior at all doses tested in the acetic acid-induced nociception test (p<0.05). These findings support the anti-inflammatory, wound-healing and analgesic properties of PEO. We suggest that PEO is a promising candidate for use in skin care products with anti-inflammatory and wound-healing properties. DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.3831042

Lecithin-Based Dermal Drug Delivery for Anti-Pigmentation Maize Ceramide.

Ceramides have several well-known biological properties, including anti-pigmentation and anti-melanogenesis, which make them applicable for use in skincare products in cosmetics. However, the efficacy of ceramides is still limited. Dermal or transdermal drug delivery systems can enhance the anti-pigmentation properties of ceramides, although there is currently no systemic evaluation method for the efficacy of these systems. Here we prepared several types of lecithin-based emulsion of maize-derived glucosylceramide, determining PC70-ceramide (phosphatidylcholine-base) to be the safest and most effective anti-pigmentation agent using zebrafish larvae. We also demonstrated the efficacy of PC70 as a drug delivery system by showing that PC70-Nile Red (red fluorescence) promoted Nile Red accumulation in the larval bodies. In addition, PC70-ceramide suppressed melanin in mouse B16 melanoma cells compared to ceramide alone. In conclusion, we developed a lecithin-based dermal delivery method for ceramide using zebrafish larvae with implications for human clinical use.

Particulate Matter 2.5 Mediates Cutaneous Cellular Injury by Inducing Mitochondria-Associated Endoplasmic Reticulum Stress: Protective Effects of Ginsenoside Rb1.

The prevalence of fine particulate matter-induced harm to the human body is increasing daily. The aim of this study was to elucidate the mechanism by which particulate matter 2.5 (PM2.5) induces damage in human HaCaT keratinocytes and normal human dermal fibroblasts, and to evaluate the preventive capacity of the ginsenoside Rb1. PM2.5 induced oxidative stress by increasing the production of reactive oxygen species, leading to DNA damage, lipid peroxidation, and protein carbonylation; this effect was inhibited by ginsenoside Rb1. Through gene silencing of endoplasmic reticulum (ER) stress-related genes such as PERK, IRE1, ATF, and CHOP, and through the use of the ER stress inhibitor tauroursodeoxycholic acid (TUDCA), it was demonstrated that PM2.5-induced ER stress also causes apoptosis and ultimately leads to cell death; however, this phenomenon was reversed by ginsenoside Rb1. We also found that TUDCA partially restored the production of ATP that was inhibited by PM2.5, and its recovery ability was significantly higher than that of ginsenoside Rb1, indicating that the process of ER stress leading to cell damage may also occur via the mitochondrial pathway. We concluded that ER stress acts alone or via the mitochondrial pathway in the induction of cell damage by PM2.5, and that ginsenoside Rb1 blocks this process. Ginsenoside Rb1 shows potential for use in skin care products to protect the skin against damage by fine particles.

Antiphotoaging Effect of Prunus yeonesis Blossom Extract via Inhibition of MAPK/AP-1 and Regulation of the TGF-βI/Smad and Nrf2/ARE Signaling Pathways.

Cherry blossoms have attracted attention as an ingredient with potential for use in skincare products. However, no skin photoaging-related research has been performed with this plant. In this study, cherry blossom extract (CBE) at 1, 10 and 100 μg mL-1 was investigated for its skin antiphotoaging effects in UVB-irradiated normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) cells in vitro. Our results showed that CBE markedly increased type-I procollagen during UVB exposure via two pathways. Firstly, transcription activator protein-1 expression and MAP kinases were downregulated, consequently reducing the production of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and MMP-3. Secondly, transforming growth factor TGF-βI secretion was upregulated by Smads. Application of CBE facilitated the nuclear translocation of Nrf2 against reactive oxygen species (ROS)-induced damage, which is essential for the coordinated induction of cytoprotective enzymes. Together, our findings suggest that CBE may be a promising ingredient for skin aging therapy and provide a novel approach for alleviating cutaneous aging.

Methylquercetins stimulate melanin biosynthesis in a three-dimensional skin model.

In a previous study, we found that both synthetic 3-O-methylquercetin (3MQ) and 3,4',7-O-trimethylquercetin (34'7TMQ) increased extracellular melanin content. 34'7TMQ increased the activity of melanogenic enzymes by stimulating the p38 pathway and the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). In contrast, 3MQ increased the activity of melanogenic enzymes without the involvement of MITF, which suggests that 3MQ inhibits the degradation of melanogenic enzymes. In the present study, we investigated the effects of 3MQ and 34'7TMQ on melanogenesis in normal human melanocytes and using a commercial three-dimensional (3D) skin model system. Both 3MQ and 34'7TMQ elongated the dendrites of normal human melanocytes from a Caucasian donor, but did not stimulate melanogenesis in the melanocytes. In the 3D skin model, which included melanocytes from an Asian donor, 3MQ and 34'7TMQ increased and elongated the melanocytes and showed a tendency to stimulate melanogenesis. These results suggest that 3MQ and 34'7TMQ could be put to practical use in skin care products and agents aimed at preventing hair graying.

Anti-inflammatory, tissue remodeling, immunomodulatory, and anticancer activities of oregano (Origanum vulgare) essential oil in a human skin disease model

The use of oregano (Origanum vulgare) essential oil (OEO) has become popular in skin care products. However, scientific research regarding its effects on human skin cells is scarce. In this study, we investigated the biological activity of a commercially available OEO, which is high in carvacrol content, in a human skin cell disease model. OEO induced marked antiproliferative effects and significantly inhibited several inflammatory biomarkers, including monocyte chemoattractant protein 1 (MCP-1), vascular cell adhesion molecule 1 (VCAM-1), intracellular cell adhesion molecule 1 (ICAM-1), interferon gamma-induced protein 10 (IP-10), interferon-inducible T-cell alpha chemoattractant (I-TAC), and monokine induced by gamma interferon (MIG). OEO also significantly inhibited tissue remodeling biomarkers, namely collagen I, collagen III, epidermal growth factor receptor (EGFR), matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1), plasminogen activator inhibitor 1 (PAI-1), tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase (TIMP) 1 and 2. An immunomodulatory biomarker, macrophage colony-stimulating factor (M-CSF), was also strongly inhibited by OEO treatment. In addition, OEO significantly modulated global gene expression and altered signaling pathways, many of which are critical in inflammation, tissue remodeling, and cancer signaling processes. These findings along with existing studies largely support the anti-inflammatory, tissue remodeling, immunomodulatory, and anticancer activities of OEO. In conclusion, this study provides the first evidence of the biological activity of OEO in human dermal fibroblasts. We suggest that OEO, with carvacrol as the major active component, is a promising candidate for use in skin care products with anti-inflammatory and anticancer properties.

157 - Skin Antiaging and Detoxifying Properties of Ancient Tea Forest Pu’er Tea

Skin aging is mainly linked to degradation of the extracellular matrix, oxidative stress, environmental stress, and weakening of the skin’s natural defenses. Pu’er is a gradually fermented and aged tea (Camellia sinensis) produced in Yunnan, China. Ancient tea forests with tall, old trees are still found growing on acidic soils with rich microfloras at altitudes of 150–1500 m in subtropical southern Yunnan, near the Myanmar border. The leaves of C. sinensis plants in these forests were examined to identify properties having potential skin care applications. Phytochemical analysis of ancient tea forest Pu’er tea reveals a higher polyphenol concentration than in green tea as well as a specific catechin and catechin oligomer composition that may help protect the skin. Elastin is the main protein modified during skin aging, and this explains the loss of biomechanical properties that characterizes this process. We performed a conventional in vitro anti–human leukocyte elastase assay, measuring absorbance at 410 nm. Our polyphenol-rich Pu’er tea extract had an IC50 (µg/ml) of 3.36, while the standard inhibitor, oleanolic acid, had an IC50 of 11.68. Heme oxygenase (HO-1) is a cytoprotective enzyme known to maintain the healthy function of tissues and limit oxidative damage to them. HO-1 expression is directly correlated with pollution—i.e., high concentrations of organic carbon, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, and reactive fine or ultrafine particles. After exposing RAW264.7 macrophages cells to hemin (toxin) at 5 µM/L and Pu’er tea extract at 5 and 50 µg/ml, HO-1 gene expression was measured at 75% and 92% respectively, showing that the extract has strong protective effects. These findings point to potential detoxifying and elastin-protecting properties of value for use in skin care products.

Protective effect of (-)-epigallocatechin gallate on ultraviolet b-induced skin damage in hairless mice

Purpose : To investigate the protective effect of green tea (-)-epigallocatechin gallate (EGCg) on ultraviolet B (UV-B)-induced skin damages in hairless mice in order to develop a natural sunscreen compound for use in skin care products and cosmetics. Methods : EGCg was dissolved in acetone at concentrations of 1.0, 10.0 and 50.0 mg/mL, and topically applied to the skin of hairless mice at doses of 0.2 mL/cm2, with acetone as control. The mice were then irradiated by 100 μW/cm2 UV-B for 30 min daily. EGCg treatment and UV-B irradiation were carried out daily for 28 consecutive days. The mice were then sacrificed and their dorsal skin examined by transmission electron microscopy (TEM) on the 28th day. Results : UV-B irradiation induced severe macroscopic skin damage including chapping, cracking and abnormal desquamation in the treated hairless mice. EGCg showed dose-dependent protective effects against UV-B induced damage on the skin. Treatments with 10.0 and 50.0 mg/mL EGCg alleviated UVB- induced skin damage by suppressing both keratinocyte apoptosis and mitochondrial dysfunction, along with inhibiting the production of melanin pigment. Conclusion : Topical application of green tea EGCg shows dose-dependent protective effect against UV-B-induced damage on hairless mouse skin. Thus, the plant compound can potentially be used as an alternative agent for photoprotection against UV-B exposure. Keywords : UV-B, Green tea EGCg, Photoprotection, Stratum corneum, Mitochondrion, Melanosome

Mesoporous silica as topical nanocarriers for quercetin: characterization and in vitro studies

The flavonoid quercetin is extensively studied for its antioxidant and chemopreventive properties. However the poor water-solubility, low stability and short half-life could restrict its use in skin care products and therapy.The present study was aimed to evaluate the potential of aminopropyl functionalized mesoporous silica nanoparticles (NH2-MSN) as topical carrier system for quercetin delivery. Thermo gravimetric analysis, X-ray diffraction, high resolution transmission electron microscopy, nitrogen adsorption isotherms, FT-IR spectroscopy, zeta potential measurements and differential scanning calorimetry allowed analyzing with great detail the organic–inorganic molecular interaction.The protective effect of this vehicle on UV-induced degradation of the flavonoid was investigated revealing a certain positive influence of the inclusion on the photostability over time.Epidermal accumulation and transdermal permeation of this molecule were ex vivo evaluated using porcine skin mounted on Franz diffusion cells. The inclusion complexation with the inorganic nanoparticles increased the penetration of quercetin into the skin after 24h post-application without transdermal delivery.The effect of quercetin alone or given as complex with NH2-MSN on proliferation of JR8 human melanoma cells was evaluated by sulforhodamine B colorimetric proliferation assay. At a concentration 60μM the complex with NH2-MSN was more effective than quercetin alone, causing about 50% inhibition of cell proliferation.