REPORT"I GARMENTSINDUSTRY Goodbye to sandblasting? Jeans are a way oflifeformany people, butfor sandblasting workerstheycan be a way ofdeath LAURA CARTER isPolicy Assistant to the General Secretary of the International Textile, Garment and Leather Woricers Federation in Brussels Jeans for ment sandblasting are industry a way they of workers life can for be in many a way the people, global ofdeath. garbut Jeans forsandblasting workersin the global garmentindustry theycan be a wayofdeath. Therearea number ofwaysofmaking a new pairofjeanslook likesomething a construction worker haswornevery dayfora year,and some aresafer thanothers. Sandblasting became the methodof choice becauseofthesoft wornlookitcreates. Forworkers ,though, sandblasting is a killer. Eighty years ago,theWorldHealthOrganisation was warning of its dangers.In the sixties,EuropeanUnion member states begantoregulate orbanit.In2009, itwas outlawed inTurkey. Yettoday thousands of workers around theworldcontinue tobe exposed toitsdeadlydangers. Yearsofpressure byunionsandactivist groups to ban sandblasting are now starting to pay off. Eighteenmonthsago, Levi Straussand H&M becamethefirst tobantheuse ofsandblasting in their supplychains.In 2011,theITGLWF worked witha numberof brandsto develop a Call to Action, and efforts areunderway toreachcritical mass.To datetheCalltoAction has been signed by AuroraFashions,Bestseller, C&A,Carrefour, Esprit,Hennes & MauritzAB (H&M), Inditex, Karen Millen,Levi Strauss& Co, New Look, Tchiboand VFC.Meanwhile, a number ofother brandshaveannouncedthey willban sandblastingfollowing pressure from labourrights groups. Butmorestillneeds to be done to drivekiller jeansoutoffashion. Everybreathan ordeal Sandblasting releases silica dust which,when inhaled,causes infection and scarringin the lungs.Continued exposurecancause silicosis, an incurabledisease thatworsensover timeeven after exposurestops.Acutesilicosis, whichdevelops as a result ofexposure tohighconcentrations ofsanddust,can cause deathbysuffocation. Breathing is something we alltakeforgranted. Butforthoseaffected by silicosis, everybreath becomesan ordeal.Walking can be exhausting. A commoncold can becomea deathsentence. In Turkey, theonlycountry so farwherethe effects of denimsandblasting have come under scrutiny, 550 former sandblasting workers have been diagnosedwithsilicosissince2005and 46 have so fardied ofthedisease.These officiallydocumented cases arejustthetipoftheiceberg bothinTurkey and globally. Itwas onlybychancethat thelinkbetweensilicosis and the garment industry was detected, whenan astute military doctorinEastern Turkey linkedthe shortness of breathof manyyoung conscriptsto their previous employmentin Istanbul's denimfactories. In some communities inthat region, every family hasatleastone memberaffected bythedisease. Theworkers hadallworked forrelatively short periods-on averagetwoyears, andinsomecase foras little as twelvemonths - during whichtime theyhad spentlonghoursinunventilated workshops . Workers said the workshopbecame so filled withdustthattheycould barelyeven see thejeansthey weresanding, Manyoftheir co-workers weremigrant workerswho havesincereturned to their own countries - Azerbaijan, Moldova,Georgia,Romaniawhereifthey fallillthey arelesslikely tobe diagnosedas suffering from an occupational disease. InIstanbul itwasn'tjustthesandblasting workerswhobecameill - itwas also their co-workers in othersections, thoseemployedin theoffices upstairs and even the children who livednext door. Turkishban In 2008,theCommittee forSolidarity withDenim Sandblasting Workers was formed tofight for the rights ofthoseaffected. Thegroupbrings togetherworkers , tradeunions,doctors, lawyers, artists and representatives ofpolitical parties. Research conducted bythegroupshowedthat manyof theleadingjeans producers in Turkey subcontracted the finishing process,mainlyto clandestine, unregistered workshops. As a result many oftheworkers wereemployed illegally, did nothave socialsecurity coverageand couldnot showproofofemployment. The committee is working to gettheTurkish authorities to accepttheir shareofresponsibility and has also emphasisedtheresponsibilities of the big fashionindustry names that have a responsibility towards theworkers who produce their goods. The committee has drawnup a listofnational and international demands.Itwantssandblasting to be outlawedworldwide. Itwantsthegovernmentto pay fortreatment, pensionsand compensation fortheworkers affected, regardless of whether Turkish nationals, legalor illegalimmigrants . Itis callingfora tripartite commission of therelevant ministries and socialpartners to be set up to help workers in dealingwithofficialdom ,and is demanding thatworkers who have takentheircases to courtbe exemptof court fees.Itwantspublicauthorities that havefailed to carry outthenecessary inspections and notperformed their dutiesto be brought tojustice. The committee is also demanding thatbrandstake responsibility forthedamagedone and ensure thatpropermedicalcareand compensations are giventothevictims ofsandblasting. Thecommittee achieveda significant victory in April 2009whenthegovernment bannedtheuse ofsandblasting inthejeansindustry. INTERNATIONAL union rights Page 24Volume 19Issue 1201 2 REPORT□ GARMENTSINDUSTRY However, theuse ofsandblasting simply shifted to othercountries, includingChina,India, Bangladesh andEgypt. Giventhelackofeffective regulation intheTurkish garment industry there is concern thatsandblasting maystillbe occurring inillegalandunregulated workshops. Demands foraction The ITGLWFis callingon itsaffiliates to take thelead indemanding action.Unionsshouldbe investigating the use of sandblasting in their respective countries. Whereitexists, they should campaignto eliminatethe practiceand exert pressure toensurethat pastandpresent workers are testedand thatthoseaffected receiveadequate medicalcare as well as compensation. Workers shouldbe made awareof thedangers andoftheneedforstrong unionorganisation as wellas meaningful worker participation infactorysafety programmes to protect themfrom such abuses. Unionsshouldalso workto makeconsumers awareof the horrors of sandblasted jeans. An outright boycott is notpossiblebecause it isn't possibletotellthedifference betweensandblastingandother methods suchas scraping orusing a laser...
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