Total Hand Value Research Articles

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES CORRESPONDING TO COMFORT FEEL OF BEDDING FABRICS

The market for bedding products in Thailand now offers a wide range of physical attributes (fiber types, structures, fabric densities, thicknesses, and weights) that produce a variety of tactile sensations and comfort qualities. This study investigated the comfort properties of bedding fabrics in Thailand. Twenty-one bedding fabric samples were collected and measured for their mechanical and surface properties based on the Kawabata evaluation system for fabric (KES-F) as well as the horizontal wicking test and abrasion resistance, air permeability, wrinkle recovery, and thermal resistance (Qmax). The primary hand value (HV) and total hand value (THV) were calculated using the Kawabata hand evaluation equation KN-201-LDY describing women's thin dress fabric, using 5 different properties from the KES-F (tensile, shear, bending, compression, and surface friction). The principle component analysis (PCA) and cluster analysis of the physical properties of fabric samples showed that the samples could be placed in 4 groups. The first group was mostly cotton woven samples. The second group consisted of 2 samples that were both knitted, while the third group was mostly mixed (M) fabric samples. The last group contained cotton and M cotton samples. The first cluster was considered to provide the best hand-feel characteristics of all 4 clusters, while the second cluster was considered the least desirable based on hand-feel. The findings of this study should assist the bedding textile sector in developing new products.

Analysis of performance properties of retro-reflective woven fabrics made with retro-reflective yarns and natural yarns

Retro-reflective (RR) materials have been the subject of recent interest largely due to their ability to ensure personal safety on the road. Their use limits vehicle–pedestrian collisions, especially at night-time. Studies have mainly developed RR textiles for aesthetics and reported on their appearance performance accordingly. This study, however, investigates the mechanical and functional properties of RR fabrics produced with RR yarns and natural yarns. The results reveal that the woven fabrics have radiative cooling effects to transmit body heat to the environment, and a good ultraviolet protection rating (15–35) with a transmittance rate below 6% depending on the weave structure. The contact angle measurements reveal that the surface of these fabrics is hydrophobic or has low wettability. The total hand value for the fabric shows their suitability for men’s dress shirts in the winter or thin women’s dresses.

Investigations of Three‐Layer Systems Intended for Protective Clothing for Prematurely Born Babies

AbstractOne of the most significant problems occurring among premature babies is high transepidermal water loss and associated heat loss. To prevent this problem protective clothing for premature babies is developed which consists of a membrane that allows partial transmission of water vapor, combined with other textile materials. The purpose of this work is to characterize two pre‐selected three‐layer systems in terms of biophysical properties that fulfill their requirements for premature infants. Samples of materials are investigated to determine biophysical comfort (tests of thermal resistance, water vapor resistance and air permeability), mass per unit area and thickness. In order to visualize the structure and chemical composition of the tested materials, Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) were performed. The mechanical properties of the investigated materials and the evaluation of the total hand value were also characterized; the samples were tested on a Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) device. Protective garments designed for premature babies should be characterized by high thermal insulation and moisture barrier properties. In addition, it should have optimal air permeability properties and fairly low surface weight in order not to burden the baby's delicate skin.

Appraisal of hand value of denim fabrics

Purpose Denim fabric has become a wardrobe staple due to its versatility to be worn in a variety of fashions. This paper aims to study denim fabrics to understand their unique hand by developing a hand evaluation system using computational method. Also, the effect of various washes was studied on the hand and surface morphology of denim fabrics. Design/methodology/approach Five different denim samples were manufactured with various washing treatments. The Kawabata Evaluation System was used to measure the low stress mechanical properties. Computation method was used to develop hand equations using multiple regression technique in the MS Excel software. The correlation coefficient analysis was done to determine the authenticity of the developed equations. Five primary hand attributes such as softness, smoothness, fullness, flexibility and stretchability were shortlisted by a panel of judges that influence the fabric handle. Findings The correlation coefficient between subjective and computational total hand values with thermal properties and without thermal properties was 0.88 and 0.85, respectively. The enzymatic wash fabric has the highest total hand value followed by the acid, bleach and stone-washed fabrics. Originality/value Although the hand evaluation system is available for conventional textiles like suiting and shirting fabrics, the method to predict fabric hand of non-conventional textiles such as denim fabrics remains an unexplored topic. The stresses acting on denim fabrics are completely different. Therefore, to the best of the author’s knowledge, a novel attempt has been made in this research work to develop a computational model to predict the total hand value of denim fabrics.

Characteristics of cotton fabric dyed with Euphorbia extract at different concentrations of cellulosic nanoparticles (CNP)

As the perception of the consumer's environment and the toxicity of synthetic dyes that is harmful to humans, interest in natural dyes is also increasing in the textile dyeing industry. This study performed an alternative to metal mordants and used cellulose nanoparticles (CNP) as a natural mortant for dyeing cotton fabrics with natural dyes extracted from Euphorbia. The characteristics with and without CNP mordant were investigated in the experiment. The effects of natural cellulosic mordants were analyzed through color, fastness, color, fastness, air permeability, antibacterial rate, UV protection, and total hand value (THV). As a result, the light fastness has been shown to significantly increase, but the improvements in terms of the wash, perspiration, and rubbing fastness were negligible. In addition, when CNP was added to cotton dyeing, there was no difference change in air permeability, but THV was significantly improved to 5 or more, and the UV protection and bacteria reduction rate were excellent. These results are attributed to the groundwork for studies on other types of natural dyes in the future and, by establishing the benefits of CNP, this study significantly contributes to the improvement of the end-products of dyeing.

Development and performance of jacquard woven retro-reflective textiles with African design patterns

Retro-reflective materials are important for safety purposes, such as enhancing the visibility of pedestrians at night when they wear garments with reflective materials and therefore reducing pedestrian fatalities. This has challenged different manufacturers to produce effective materials that provide the best retro-reflection. Most of these materials are applied as stripes on clothing, but can also extend to artisans using reflective yarns in their creations. Nevertheless, there is a lack of research and the synthesis of reflective yarns and African design patterns (due to its symbolic value for the African people) to create effective textiles that have the necessary properties for visibility at night. In this research work, a new approach is adopted by using a design process that combines jacquard weaving technology, reflective threads and African design patterns to produce retro-reflective textiles. The subsequent reflective effects captured in a darkroom show the retro-reflective ability of the samples. The testing carried out by using the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics shows that the total hand value (THV) of the samples makes them suitable for men’s winter dress shirts and women’s thin winter dresses (with positive values) but not suitable for the summer garment (with negative values) counterparts respectively. This new approach might extend the ideation to produce retro-reflective textiles that can be applied for many different uses.

Objective Evaluation of Total Hand Value for Bedsheet

ABSTRACT The aim of this paper is to develop an objective set of hand equations for bedsheet fabrics that are produced from conventional or non-conventional fibers such as cotton, polyester, modal, viscose, Excel, and their blends. In order to evaluate the fabric hand of bed sheets objectively, four primary hand values such as Sofutosa (soft feeling), Numeri (smoothness), Fukurami (fullness), and Koshi (stiffness) are selected by the opinion of experts. Eight basic mechanical properties have been used to develop primary and total hand equations. The computational (objective evaluation) methods of total hand values of bed sheets were developed by using subjective total hand values and low-stress mechanical properties of bedsheets by the stepwise block residual regression method. From the regression equation, the computational value of all samples has been generated to compare with the subjective and experimental values and investigate the correlation between experimental, subjective, and computational total hand value. According to the study, the correlation value (R) between experimental and computational is 0.856, and between subjective and computational is 0.964. In this study, the equation obtained shows a strong correlation between the subjective and experimental results, which confirms that the total hand value of the bed linen fabrics can be anticipated with a tolerable accuracy level.

A study on the Low Stress Mechanical properties of spun silk sarees woven on Handloom

The silk handloom industry consumes two-thirds of the raw silk produced domestically in India. It was envisaged to develop a handloom silk saree using spun silk as warp and or weft and study the fabric characteristics in terms of low-stress mechanical properties using Kawabata analysis. Accordingly, a commercially available finer variety of Nm 210/2 spun silk was used as warp and or weft to produce three types of silk sarees and compared with regular reeled silk saree. Two types of spun silk sarees showed significantly lesser bending stiffness when compared to the reeled silk saree that implies, the fabric is less stiff with better drape-ability. The shear rigidity of all the spun silk sarees was significantly lower than that of reeled regular silk saree. It implies that the spun silk fabric can be easily distorted in laying up, marking and cutting. As such it is easy for folding and sleeve insertion during fabric stitching. Also, the spun silk saree possesses tensile, surface and compression properties at par with reeled silk saree. The analysis revealed that the Primary Hand Values (PHV), Koshi (Stiffness), Numeri (Smoothness) and Fukurami (Softness) including the Total Hand Value (THV) for the women’s thin dress material were better than that of regular reeled silk saree. The results of thermal properties revealed that the Q-max, CLO and TIV of the spun silk sarees are significantly better than that of regular reeled silk saree.

Comfort properties of special clothes worn by sufferers from atopic dermatitis

This article investigates the performance of special knitwear made and recommended for sufferers of atopic dermatitis. Atopic dermatitis is a condition that causes dry, itchy and inflamed skin. Generally, fabrics with hygienic, antimicrobial, and mechanical non-irritating properties are recommended for sufferers from atopic dermatitis. The idea is to find the optimal textile structure that eliminates pain and wearing discomfort (both sensorial and thermo-physiological components). Based on a questionnaire survey of the needs of people with dermatitis, a group of properties was determined that crucially influence total wearing comfort. The measurement of these properties was conducted on eight commercially used knitwear types. Sensorial comfort was represented by parameters of total hand value, subjective wearing value, and warm/cold feeling value; physiological comfort by thermal conductivity, moisture management, water vapor and air permeability, and drying efficiency. The decision-making method Technique for Order of Preference by Similarity to Ideal Solution was used to determine the best solution considering the combination of the properties mentioned above. In summary, high air and water vapor permeability, hand feeling, and especially surface roughness fundamentally affect atopic customer decisions. Further, fabrics made from natural fibers (silk and linen) have a high potential to meet the needs of people with atopic dermatitis conditions. Both materials (M1, M7) show a combination of the high level of air permeability (more than 530 (mm . s−1)), a low level of water vapor resistance (in the range of 1.4–3.5 (m2 . Pa . W−1)) and provide very good subjective wearing comfort. Therefore, they can be substituted for traditional expert-recommended cotton.

Objective Hand Evaluation of Stretch Fabrics Using Artificial Neural Network and Computational Model

ABSTRACT Stretch woven textiles are widely employed because of their excellent elongation and recovery properties. The stretch fabrics studied in this research can be used as power stretch and action stretch sportswear fabrics. The purpose of this paper is to investigate an approach to predict the total hand value by translating the senses into numbers. Computational and artificial neural network models were developed. Five primary hand attributes softness, smoothness, fullness, stiffness, and stretchability were shortlisted that influence the fabric handle. Computational methods were used to generate primary and total hand equations based on basic mechanical parameters. To forecast primary hand values, stretch percent was used with low stress mechanical properties. The association between subjective, computational, and artificial neural network total hand values was investigated using a statistical technique. The subjective and computational hand values have a high correlation of 0.84. The subjective and artificial neural network hand values were shown to have a 0.82 correlation. The accuracy of both models’ prediction of fabric hand was found to be very high. The study finds that both models can forecast the total hand value of stretch materials with a tolerable level of accuracy.

Evaluation of Biophysical Properties of Potential Materials for the Manufacture of Protective Garments for Preterm Infants

Preterm infants, due to immature and dysfunctional skin, have increased water loss through the skin and consequently a decreased body temperature. In order to develop protective garments for preterm infants, it is important to select materials that will protect the child against water and heat loss. The authors are currently involved in the development of protective garments for premature babies, which are similar to baby clothes and contain a membrane that is partially permeable for vapor in combination with textile materials. This article presents the study of materials intended for the production of protective garments for pre-term infants. Samples of materials were investigated to determine biophysical comfort (tests of heat resistance, vapor resistance according to PN-EN ISO 11092:2014-11 and air permeability according to PN-EN ISO 9237) and porosity, surface mass in accordance with PN-EN 12127, and thickness in accordance with PN-EN ISO 5084. In order to determine the porosity of materials and to visualize the structure, tests on computer microtomography were carried out. The mechanical properties of the tested materials and the evaluation of the total hand value were characterized; the samples were tested on the KES device. The aim of this study was to select the most suitable fabrics for protective garments for premature infants to prevent excessive heat and moisture loss from the body, which can lead to hypothermia. For laminates, the optimal results of vapor resistance and heat resistance were obtained for laminate (15 g·m−2 PE foil + 15 g·m−2 PP non-woven), with a level of thermal resistance of 0.0766 m2·K·W−1 and vapor resistance of 188.729 m2·Pa·W−1, and for laminate (15 g·m−2 PE foil + 10 g·m−2 PP non-woven), with a level of thermal resistance of 0.0683 m2·K·W−1 and vapor resistance of 164.085 m2·Pa·W−1. For knitted fabrics, knitwear single cotton 155 g·m−2 showed the highest thermal resistance (0.0296 m2·K·W−1), and knitwear interlock polyester 120 g·m−2 showed the lowest thermal resistance (0.0179 m2·K·W−1). Knitwear cotton 120 g·m−2 had the highest water vapor resistance (8.402 m2·Pa·W−1), while knitwear interlock polyester 130 g·m−2 sample had the lowest resistance (6.356 m2·Pa·W−1). Garments for premature babies should have moisture barrier properties and high thermal insulation. They should also be characterized by optimal air permeability properties. Sample two-layer laminate (15 g·m−2 PE foil + 15 g·m−2 PP non-woven) had the best vapor resistance and thermal insulation properties. Moreover, this sample was characterized by good air permeability and surface weight compared to the other laminate samples. During the design of garments for premature babies, it is important to reduce the surface weight to as low as possible. Among the knitted fabrics, a knitwear single cotton 120 g·m−2 knitwear polyester interlock 120 g·m−2 was selected for having the best THV or tactile comfort. In addition, these knits were chosen for their lower surface weight. Based on the conducted tests, two-layer laminate (15 g·m−2 PE foil + 15 g·m−2 PP non-woven), the knitwear single cotton 120 g·m−2, and knitwear polyester interlock 120 g·m−2 were selected for further research.

Assessment of the Impact of the Surface Modification Processes of Cotton and Polyester Fabrics with Various Techniques on Their Structural, Biophysical, Sensory, and Mechanical Properties.

This article presents research on the assessment of the impact of surface modification of cotton and polyester fabrics using four techniques (flocking, layer by layer, screen printing and thermal-transfer printing) on their structural, mechanical, biophysical, and sensory properties. Depending on geometry and raw materials of the fabrics, the clothing made of them it is characterized by certain biophysical properties which are intended to protect the human body against external factors, but also against excessive sweating and overheating or cooling down. The aforementioned properties of the modified textiles were determined with: optical microscopy, microcomputed tomography, a tensile testing machine, sweating guarded-hotplate, air permeability tester, and the Kawabata evaluation system. Based on analysis of obtained results, it can be concluded that flocking reduces air permeability the most (−77% for cotton fabric and −99.7% for polyester fabric), and total hand value (−58% and −57%) and increases water vapor resistance the most (+769% and +612%) while the screen printing increases the thermal resistance the most (+119% and +156%) compared to unmodified textiles. It can be concluded that, when modifying textile substrates, the area of modification and their size on clothing products should be carefully selected so as not to adversely affect the feelings of potential wearers.

Integration of nanocomposite finishing on polyester fabric for enhanced UV protection, performance, and comfort properties

This research focuses on the integration between functional finishing and the performance properties of polyester fabric for comfortable clothes. The effects of nanofinishing (zinc oxide nanoparticles and nano-polyurethane nanocomposite) on the ultraviolet protection properties of polyester fabric, the whiteness index, and the Kawabata Evaluation System were studied. Under the optimum finishing conditions, excellent protection (150) was achieved at lower concentrations of the nanocomposite, and zinc oxide nanoparticles individually enhanced the whiteness index (73). The results of the Kawabata Evaluation System showed that the finishing processes improved mechanical and performance properties (tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface roughness, thermal, and hand properties), indicating that all the finished fabrics offered enhanced functionality, thermal and comfort properties. Enhanced total hand value properties (3.7 for summer and 5.1 for winter) were realized by finishing, assuming the finished fabrics were applied to men’s shirts and women’s dresses for summer and winter apparel. Scanning electron microscopy and energy disperse X-ray spectroscopy analyses showed a uniform layer of zinc oxide nanoparticles and nano polyurethane on the fiber surface. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy confirmed the structural changes in the finished fabric.

Development of Bed Linen Performance Index

In order to develop the performance of the bed linen index objectively, the first seven properties of the fabric are selected by twenty-four experts subjectively, and these experts also give the weight for each property according to the necessity. These properties are total hand value (THV), moisture management, abrasion resistance, air permeability, wrinkle recovery, thermal resistance, and drape of fabric. After selecting the properties and the weight for each characteristic, an integrated index for bed linen performance value is developed. Before directly using the value of each property into the equation, normalization of data should be done to shrink the range of the data such that the range is fixed between 1 and 5. The correlation between subjective and objective evaluations was very high (r = 0.82). This indicates that the bed linen performance index could be estimated as well.

Comparative Study on the Quality Characteristics of Handmade and Machine Made Pashmina Shawls

ABSTRACT A study was conducted to compare the quality characteristics of globally recognized pashmina shawls manufactured manually (using traditional tools and techniques) with machine processed ones. The quality parameters studied include areal density, thickness, ends/picks per inch, bending properties, tensile properties, surface characteristics using SEM and total hand value. The results revealed that areal density and thickness of handmade pashmina shawls were significantly higher than machine processed shawls. Ends/picks per inch showed no-significant difference among the treatments. Tensile properties of handmade pashmina shawls were found higher than machine-processed samples. Bending length was found less in handmade pashmina shawls while as bending rigidity was less in machine processed samples. The subjective assessment score in terms of total hand value was found significantly higher in handmade pashmina shawls than machine-processed ones. The scanning electronic microscopic images of the fibers from machine-processed shawls clearly depicts the damages inflicted during processing. From the study, it was concluded that machine processing leads to the deterioration in the overall quality of globally recognized pashmina shawls. Hence, the traditional practices of pashmina shawl processing need to be preserved to sustain the Kashmiri pashmina, besides proper labeling to avoid fraudulent trade practices.

Prediction of Handle Value of Bed Linen Fabrics Using Computational Method

ABSTRACT A computational method was developed for the prediction of handle value of the bed linen fabrics by using step-wise block regression method. The objective evaluation of fabric hand would contribute in engineering and developing the bed linen fabrics that offers maximum comfort while sleeping. The subjective evaluation of fabric hand restricts the engineering of the high-quality fabrics and the scientific understanding of the fabric properties. The expert’s opinion selected the four primary hand properties that are soft feeling, smoothness, fullness, and stiffness influencing the handle of the bed linen fabrics. Primary and total hand equations were developed using the 16 basic mechanical properties. The experimental total hand value was also calculated using existing hand equation for futon’s cloth and the statistical approach was followed to investigate the correlation between subjective, experimental, and computational total hand values. An excellent correlation of 0.889 was found between the subjective and computational hand values. The research concludes that the total hand value of the bed linen fabrics can be predicted with tolerable accuracy level.

Effect of Filament Configuration on Handle and Transmission Properties of Polyester Multifilament Fabrics

The configuration of constituent filaments in multifilament woven polyester fabrics plays very crucially to decide the low stress mechanical as well as transmission behaviour of shirting range fabrics. Intermingled, textured, and flat yarns (150/36/5, yarn of total denier 150, 36 filaments in that strand with 5 twist per meter) were used to produce different fabric samples. Twelve fabric samples using various combinations of warp and weft are manufactured with intermingled, textured, twisted, and flat configurations. Fabric samples were characterized to get low-stress mechanical properties by Kawabata Evaluation System (KES-FB) and transmission behaviour was tested by Permetest, air permeability tester, and wickability tester. The presence of textured configured multifilament yarn exhibits high bending elasticity with lower bending hysteresis. The compression behaviour of fabric consists of intermingled warp and textured weft shows the highest compressibility or fullness. The intermingled configuration offers higher total hand value for winter applications with a different combination of weft threads. The highest wicking potential is achieved in case of intermingled warp and textured weft combinations. The moisture transmission rate remains highest with twisted warp twisted weft fabrics.

Quality inspection and prediction of the comfort of fabrics finished with functional polymers

Textile’s primary hand (HV) and total hand values (THV) are very important parameters and are used to identify the quality of clothing comfort. This paper aims to predict the HV and THV of the fabrics finished with functional polymers by applying Kawabata’s translation equations. The mechanical properties were achieved using Kawabata’s fabric evaluation system (KES-F) and the inference/interpretation was drawn. Then, HV and THV predictions were performed by applying Kawabata’s translation equations of the KN-101 and KN-301 series. The KES-F result confirmed that it is possible to observe the operative finishing effect on the mechanical properties of fabrics. The prediction results show that the total quality comfort of the functional fabrics could able be estimated by the equation developed by Kawabata; the calculated errors (~0.66) were within the range of the standard deviations (~0.78) of the samples between the predicted and ranked THV. The experimental and the calculated primary hand values showed strong correlation coefficients up to ~0.98 which is significant at 0.001 confidence levels. As actual functional fabrics with various surface properties were provided to estimate their tactile comfort via the equations, the result verified that the equation is reliable for the tactile comfort evaluation and grading.

A mathematical model for objective hand evaluation of automotive seat fabrics

A mathematical model for objective evaluation of hand value of car seat fabrics was developed using a step-wise block regression method. The subjective assessment of fabrics was conducted by a panel of judges to identify the primary hand attributes and the related mechanical parameters playing an important role in the fabric hand evaluation. The primary attributes selected by judges were conformability, smoothness, softness and stretchability. The coefficient of concordance was determined to find out the agreement among the judges. From consumer point of view, conformability got the highest weightage in the survey. There is an excellent correlation between the subjective and objective primary hand values. The correlation between the subjective and the objective total hand values found to be very high (R > 0.9) both with and without stretchability parameter.

EFFECT OF SPANDEX DENIER OF WEFT CORE SPUN YARN ON PROPERTIES OF FINISHED STRETCH WOVEN FABRIC

The woven fabrics containing cotton/spandex core spun yarns possesses very vital properties of stretch, recovery and thus shape retention from the view point of wearing comfort and garment appearance. Spandex present in the core of core spun yarn is the most essential performer behind these properties. An attempt is made in this research work to study the influence of changing spandex denier in core spun yarn on the stretch and functional properties of stretch woven fabrics. The sole objective of this study is to find out whether different stretch, shrinkage and physical properties of stretch woven fabrics depend upon changing spandex percentage achieved by means of change in spandex filament denier. It was observed that by increasing denier of spandex in core spun weft yarns the increase in weft shrinkage diminishes. Dual core weft with spandex provides good elongation percentage and recovery percentage. The fabric with higher denier spandex in yarn shows a decreasing total hand values trend for summer and winter. The results depicts that the fabrics have higher THV for winter suiting fabrics as compared to summer suiting thus are more suitable for the winter wear.