Topo-bathymetric Surveys Research Articles

Beach nourishment response and recent morphological evolution of Minnesota Point, Lake Superior

Beach nourishments are a popular nature-based alternative to armoring for shoreline erosion mitigation, but nourishments have been criticized due to their environmental impacts and uncertain sustainability. Monitoring is often nonexistent or insufficient to constrain nourishment longevity and inform the renourishment interval required to maintain shoreline protection. This study uses a combination of topobathymetric surveys, high-resolution satellite-derived shorelines, and coastal engineering analyses to investigate the recent evolution of Minnesota Point and the fate of three beach nourishments constructed adjacent to littoral barriers. We use semi-empirical formulations for sediment compatibility, wave runup, and longshore sediment transport to inform the observed nourishment behavior. Minnesota Point experienced widespread foredune retreat averaging 7±2.8 m from 2009–2019 and 130,000 (70,000–140,000) m3 of sediment was eroded during this interval. The 2019 nourishment at the Superior Entry was rapidly eroded by strong storms, losing >80% of the added beach width by the following spring. The 2020 and 2021 nourishments at the Duluth Entry retained >80% of the nourishment material at the time of the last topobathymetric survey in the fall of 2022, and satellite-derived shorelines indicate that the beach remained 10 m wider than pre-nourishment conditions at the end of 2023. Modeled longshore transport rates over the period 2009–2022 averaged 11,400 m3 yr−1 northwestward at the Superior Entry, nearly 3x greater than the 4000 m3 yr−1 southeastward transport modeled at the Duluth Entry. These observations show that differences in shoreline orientation, littoral sediment supply, and grain size compatibility can lead to contrasting beach nourishment longevities, and this study provides additional measurements of Minnesota Point’s long-term morphological change which can help inform coastal resiliency efforts.

Influence of large wood dynamics on flow and channel morphology in a forest stream

The riparian zone is a dynamic ecosystem formed by the interaction of aquatic and terrestrial components of rivers and serves as a source of the large wood (LW). We aimed to understand the LW dynamics and the LW influence on river morphology, sediment distribution, and flow velocity within three reaches of a low-order stream. The study was performed in a segment (770 m in length) of the Perdizes stream, located in Aparados da Serra National Park, southern Brazil. We framed the study by focusing three issues: i) the processes explaining the LW dynamics in the Araucaria Forest biome; ii) the effects of LW on the flow velocity along the study reaches, and iii) the presence of LW affecting the sediment longitudinal connectivity. The methodology consisted of: (i) collection of hydrological data (rainfall, discharge, and streamflow velocity), (ii) Perdizes stream characterization by topo-bathymetric survey and river-flow simulation with HEC-RAS 5.0.7 1D. and (iii) detailed field surveys of LW and bed sediments. The LW descriptions were performed at four moments (July 10, 2019; November 19, 2019; July 24, 2020; and December 18, 2020). Abundant LW, mainly from araucaria (Araucaria angustifolia (Bertol.) Kuntze), was observed before meanders. A notable reduction in LW volume and an increased proportion of araucaria, compared to deciduous trees, were observed within the channel. Mass balance analysis indicated fluctuations in riparian vegetation biomass, emphasizing the connectivity between vegetation and the river. Streamflow velocity decreased in LW presence, from occurrence to the margin. Bed sediment diameters were consistently smaller in cross-sections with LW presence. The accumulation of smaller sediments with LW indicated partial downstream sediment disconnectivity. HEC-RAS simulations confirmed increased LW deposition in lower velocity zones. This understanding of fluvial dynamics contributes to effective natural environment management, especially in the Araucaria Forest context.

Generation of a Digital Terrain Model (DTM) Fusioning WV-2 Images and RTK-derived Topobathymetric Data

Digital terrain models (DTMs) are digital elevation models (DEMs) that represent the bare ground surface. They are created by multiple sources, including satellite remote sensing, aerial photography, and ground-based surveys, and are often combined with other data sources to create highly detailed models. As the demand for accurate and detailed information about the Earth's surface continues to grow, DTMs have become an increasingly important tool for researchers in different fields. This study aims to create a DTM with a spatial resolution of 0.50 m for São Caetano do Sul, São Paulo, Brazil, integrated with a topobathymetric map of three water courses running along the borders of the study area. For the conventional DTM generation, a WV-2 stereo pair was used. A total of 55 ground control points (GCPs) were collected using the GNSS-RTK method, being 60% used for model building and 40% employed for validation. The topobathymetric survey was accomplished using a GNSS-RTK device placed along the analyzed open streams. For validation purposes, we used bias and MAE metrics. Overall, the methodology presented in this article provides a useful approach for generating high-resolution DTMs that can be used in a range of applications, especially in urban hydrodynamic studies.

Sediment leakage on the beach and upper shoreface due to extreme storms

The quantification of sediment exchanges between the beach and the lower shoreface, although being still poorly understood, is required to adequately forecast long-term coastal evolution. The effect of extreme storms on the morphodynamics of the nearshore and the sediment budget of the coastal zone seems to be strongly conditioned by local parameters, which should be incorporated into studies of medium- and long-term coastal evolution. In the upper shoreface, the dynamics of shore-parallel bars in sandy coasts have been extensively studied, but their implications for the sediment budget remain controversial as it is unclear whether their evolution simply represents a morphological change or denotes an escape of sediment from the upper shoreface. In order to provide new knowledge to address these questions, fifteen topo-bathymetric surveys that extend from the emerged beach to 15 m water depth were carried out along 1 km of Castelldefels beach (Llobregat Delta, Barcelona, western Mediterranean Sea) during the period 2011–2022. Morphological variations on the shoreface are studied, volumetric changes are estimated and implications on sedimentary exchanges in the littoral profile are inferred. The largest morphological (volumetric) changes are caused by cross-shore displacements of the nearshore bars, usually onshore during fair-weather conditions and offshore during storms. Volumetric changes suggest that shoreline retreat and the erosion of the shallow section of the profile during the last decade provides sediment to both the distal upper shoreface and the lower shoreface. The resulting sediment budget in the profile is almost zero in absence of extreme storms, but becomes highly negative when including extreme storms events that cause a net offshore transfer of sediment from the upper to the lower shoreface and, probably, the inner shelf. The characteristics of the study area (morphology, sediments, waves, tides) and in-situ hydrodynamic measurements at the lower shoreface suggest that the main potential onshore transport mechanisms (velocity and acceleration skewness during low-mid energy event) are small, making a significant transfer of sediment from the lower shoreface towards the shallow beach area unlikely at interannual scales. Thus, the study area is an example of low-lying coastal stretch in which the potential long-term shoreline retreat caused by sea level rise cannot be fully compensated by the sediment supplied from the lower shoreface. Other mechanisms, such as sediment supplied by longshore transport, are needed to counteract this trend.

Enhancing reservoir dam’s management in Algeria: a comparative study of interpolation methods for topo-bathymetric surveys

Enhancing reservoir dam’s management in Algeria: a comparative study of interpolation methods for topo-bathymetric surveys

Video-Based Nearshore Bathymetric Inversion on a Geologically Constrained Mesotidal Beach during Storm Events

Although geologically constrained sandy beaches are ubiquitous along wave-exposed coasts, there is still a limited understanding of their morphological response, particularly under storm conditions, which is mainly due to a critical lack of nearshore bathymetry observations. This paper examines the potential to derive bathymetries from video imagery under challenging wave conditions in order to investigate headland control on morphological beach response. For this purpose, a video-based linear depth inversion algorithm is applied to three consecutive weeks of frames collected during daylight hours from a single fixed camera located at La Petite Chambre d’Amour beach (Anglet, SW France). Video-derived bathymetries are compared against in situ topo-bathymetric surveys carried out at the beginning and end of the field experiment in order to assess the performance of the bathymetric estimates. The results show that the rates of accretion/erosion within the surf zone are strongly influenced by the headland, whereas the beach morphological response can be classified into three main regimes depending on the angle of wave incidence θp: (1) under deflection configuration (θp>0°), the alongshore sediment transport was trapped at the updrift side of the headland, promoting sand accretion. (2) Under shadowed configuration (θp<0°), the interruption of the longshore current drove a deficit of sand supply at the downdrift side of the headland, leading to an overall erosion in the surf zone. (3) Under shore-normal configuration (θp=0°), rip channels developed, and up-state beach transition was observed. A comparison between video-derived bathymetries and surveys shows an overall root mean square error (RMSE) around 0.49 to 0.57 m with a bias ranging between −0.36 and −0.29 m. The results show that video-derived bathymetries can provide new insight into the morphological change driven by storm events. The combination of such inferred bathymetry with video-derived surface current data is discussed, showing great potential to address the coupled morphodynamics system under time-varying wave conditions.

Seamless topo-bathymetric surveys of Maiyegun Estate Waterfront Lagos State, Nigeria

Topo-bathymetric surveys are mostly desired in coastal area where water and land perpetually interact. This work explore the ground-based methods of topographic and bathymetric surveys in collecting data for the appropriate description of the Mayegun Estate water front and the adjoining land topography. To acquire depth data at pre-defined transects lines, hydrographic vessel and a trained diver were engaged. The topo-bathy DEM was produced at 1m and contour at 0.5m interval. The wave pattern was determined to be semi-diurnal. The fitted second order polynomial regression equation for wave amplitude against time yielded (y = 2E-07x2 - 0.0003x - 0.0276 at R² = 0.0064) while that of depth versus sounded points gave (y = 5E-09x2 - 5E-06x - 7.1512) at R² = 0.0019. The vertical and horizontal uncertainties were computed as 0.015m and 5m + (-0.47) at 95% confidence level based on (IHO) specification for order 1a. This principle can be adopted with caution as a viable alternative for topo-bathy surveys to minimize cost.

Subaerial-submarine morphological changes at Stromboli volcano (Italy) induced by the 2019–2020 eruptive activity

This study analyses the morphological changes induced by eruptive activity at Stromboli volcano (Italy) during and after events occurring during July–August 2019. This period was characterized by intense eruptive activity (two paroxysmal explosions, a two-month-long lava emission, and more intense and frequent “ordinary” explosive activity) that produced significant changes within the region known as Sciara del Fuoco, located on the most unstable, north-western flank of the volcano. Since September 2019, the eruptive activity waned but remained intense, and erosive phenomena continued to contribute to the re-shaping of the Sciara del Fuoco. The morphological changes described here were documented by integrating topographic (PLÉIADES satellite tri-stereo Digital Elevation Models) and multibeam bathymetric data, acquired before, during, and after the paroxysmal events. This allowed the study of the cumulative effect of the different processes and the characterization of the different phases of accumulation/emplacement, erosion, remobilization and re-sedimentation of the volcaniclastic materials.Data acquired at several periods between September 2018 and April 2020, allowed a comparison of the subaerial and submarine effects of the 2019 events. We find evidence of localized, significant erosion following the two pyroclastic density currents triggered by the paroxysmal explosion of the 3 July 2019. We interpret this erosion as being caused by submarine and subaerial landslides triggered by the propagation of pyroclastic density currents down the Sciara del Fuoco slope. Immediately after the explosion, a lava field accumulated on the sub-aerial slope, produced by effusive activity which lasted about two months. Subsequently, the newly emplaced lava, and in particular its breccia, was eroded, with the transfer of material onto the submarine slope. This work demonstrates how repeated topo-bathymetric surveys allowed identification of the slope processes that were triggered in response to the rapid geomorphological variations due to the eruptive activity. The surveys also allowed distinction of whether estimated volumetric losses were the result of single mass-flows or gradual erosive processes, with implications on the related geohazard. Furthermore, this work highlights how submarine slope failures can be triggered by the entry into the water of pyroclastic density currents, even of modest size. These results are important for the development and improvement of an early warning system for tsunami-induced by mass flows, both in Stromboli and for island-based and coastal volcanoes elsewhere, where landslides and pyroclastic density currents can trigger significant, potentially destructive, tsunami waves.

Geomorphological Changes of a Migrating Sandbank: Multidecadal Analysis as a Tool for Managing Conflicts in Coastal Use

While beach erosion and sand loss are typically of great concern to the tourism industry, managing rapid morphological changes linked to large amounts of moving sediments is the challenge facing Grado, an important seaside resort in the northern Adriatic, Italy. The cause of the unusual management conflict is the presence of the Mula di Muggia Bank, a nearshore depositional system made up of relict and active migrating sandbanks extending up to 2 km seawards from the touristic beachfront. A reconstruction of the morpho-sedimentary evolution of the coastal system over a 200-year period was done using a large dataset which includes historical cartography, topographic maps, aerial photos and topo-bathymetric surveys. The results show the growth of a significant urban development aimed at creating a tourist destination by occupying the waterfront along fetch-limited coastal tracts with very shallow water and scarce hydrodynamics. Furthermore, a number of sandy dynamic landforms (longshore migrating bars, a bypass corridor, an ebb-tidal delta) and accumulation zones attest to a sediment excess which can be mostly attributed to the eastern river supplies. The progressive constant migration rate of 12.6 my−1 allowed the bank to induce the expansion of the low-energy silty backbarrier environment, characterised by abundant seagrass meadows a short distance directly in front of the tourist beaches of Grado. As a result of historical analysis and more current observations, areas with diverse morphosedimentary features and with varying tourist/recreational, ecological, and conservation values have been identified. These can be considered as basic units for future accurate planning and re-evaluation of coastal management choices to balance environmental protection and tourist use. A soft coastal defence approach is proposed which includes either the preservation of specific environments or the proper use of excess sand for beach nourishment via periodic dredging or sediment bypassing.

Sediment pathways and morphodynamic response to a multi-purpose artificial reef – New insights

Multi-purpose Artificial Reefs (MPARs) are structures that may provide aesthetically acceptable coastal protection and improve recreational outcomes. Twenty years after construction of the first MPAR, Narrowneck Reef on the Gold Coast of Australia, most of the available literature is still focused on the planning, design and construction of such structures and peer-reviewed publications on their post-construction monitoring, interaction with sediment transport and impacts on coastal morphology are lacking. The aim of this paper is to evaluate how does Narrowneck Reef influence the sediment transport, and morphological changes around the anthropogenic structure, two decades after construction. To do so, a combination of ten high spatial resolution topo-bathymetric surveys from the top of the dune to the 10 m depth captured over 21 months and a series of 60 simulations using a calibrated numerical model were used. Our results demonstrate that: although not expected during design or reported in similar structures, sand can bypass the MPAR around its offshore end; under oblique waves, the longshore currents are deflected as they pass the reef, resulting in a shadow zone on the downdrift side where sand deposits; the bar crest tends to be higher on the reef's updrift side compared to downdrift, indicating that the MPAR can act as a store for sediments, as initially designed. Furthermore, the MPAR can act to stabilise the bar as it moves onshore with a downdrift offset of the inner bar as a result of low oblique wave incidence. The results presented here demonstrate that the short-term response to the MPAR twenty years after construction is more closely related to the updrift build up of sand and the deflection of longshore currents as they encounter the reef than to the dissipation of wave energy. This is because MPARs are designed to dissipate just enough wave energy so that they can achieve their recreational goal (surfing).

Headland bypassing timescales: Processes and driving forces

In this paper, a natural headland bypassing is investigated in terms of its short (months to years) and long-term (years to decades) variability and its relationship with wave conditions, climate drivers and anthropogenic interventions. The research is focused on Fingal Head (New South Wales, Australia) where nine detailed topo-bathymetric surveys were undertaken between June 2018 and January 2020. To extend the analysis in time, over 30 years of satellite and aerial images were used to describe the headland bypassing variability based on the shoreline and sandbar position changes. Shoreline and sandbar positions presented moderate to strong correlation between updrift and immediate downdrift of the headland highlighting the influence of the bypassing process for the longshore transport on the study area. Results indicate that the headland bypassing around Fingal Head is governed by two distinct processes and their dominance is controlled by waves and sediment availability. The sandbar-driven bypassing scenario requires a storm wave event to trigger the sandbar system and over seven months to complete the full bypassing cycle. A quicker bypassing cycle (i.e. few months) happens when sediment leaks around the headland following a persistent low energy wave condition that largely accretes the updrift upper beach. Headland bypassing cycles occur in multiple timescales, including seasonal variability of the wave climate to interannual and decadal cycles of shoreline progradation and retreat. Shifts in the large-scale climate drivers such as El Niño-Southern Oscillation, Pacific Decadal Oscillation and Interdecadal Pacific Oscillation were observed to influence on changes to the low frequency of variability of the headland bypassing in the study area by affecting the predominant wave direction and updrift beach sand availability. The understanding of this intermittent nature of the headland bypassing process and particularly considering its periodicity and the related driving forces is crucial to predict future coastal hazards and develop management strategies.

Sedimentation assessment and effects in Venda Nova dam reservoir (Portugal)

Sediment quantity and quality in dam reservoirs is often neglected and usually only water quality is monitored in many countries, such as in Portugal. Nevertheless, there are risks associated to sedimentation in dam reservoirs, particularly considering that many dams in the world are ageing into an overextended lifetime. The present study was conducted with the goal to understand how sedimentation monitoring in Portuguese dam reservoirs could be attained, as that information is essential to tackle any sedimentation effects that may have occurred. A dam reservoir in the north of Portugal, the Venda Nova reservoir, was selected for the study. First, historical relevant data was compiled and then new data for sediment and water quality analysis was collected. The results show that since the reservoir was filled, after the dam construction conclusion in 1951, the reservoir morphology has been affected by the sedimentation at different rates and underwent multiple transformations from 1946 (before the dam construction) to 2004 (last topobathymetric survey). An expressive morphology transformation detected in 1984 led to an intervention to remove some of the accumulated material. It was verified, as well, that the asymmetrical contamination of the sediments and water is still strongly influenced by a nearby mine even if now inactive. The methodology applied, if periodically used, will be helpful to understand the sedimentation phenomena in Portuguese and other European dam reservoirs where reservoir sedimentation has been overlooked, and can play a key role to improve river continuity and to comply with the Environmental Quality Standards under the EU Water Framework Directive (2000/60/EC).

Evaluating the performance of topobathymetric LiDAR to support multi‐dimensional flow modelling in a gravel‐bed mountain stream

AbstractStream biophysical processes are commonly studied using multi‐dimensional numerical modelling that quantifies flow hydraulics from which parameters such as habitat suitability, stream carrying capacity, and bed mobility are derived. These analyses would benefit from accurate high‐resolution stream bathymetries spanning tens of kilometres of channel, especially in small streams or where navigation is difficult. Traditional ground‐based survey methods are limited by survey time, dense vegetation and stream access, and are usually only feasible for short reaches. Conversely, airborne topobathymetric LiDAR surveys may overcome these limitations, although limited research is available on how errors in LiDAR‐derived digital elevation models (DEMs) might propagate through flow models. This study investigated the performance of LiDAR‐derived topobathymetry in support of multi‐dimensional flow modelling and ecohydraulics calculations in two gravel‐bedded reaches (approximately 200 m long), one morphologically complex and one morphologically simple, and at the segment scale (32 km‐long stream segment) along a 15 m‐wide river in central Idaho, USA. We compared metre and sub‐metre‐resolution DEMs generated from RTK‐GPS ground and Experimental Advanced Airborne Research LiDAR‐B (EAARL‐B) surveys and water depths, velocities, shear stresses, habitat suitability, and bed mobility modelled with two‐dimensional (2D) hydraulic models supported by LiDAR and ground‐surveyed DEMs. Residual statistics, bias (B), and standard deviation (SD) of the residuals between depth and velocity predicted from the model supported by LiDAR and ground‐survey topobathymetries were up to −0.04 (B) and 0.09 m (SD) for depth and −0.09 (B) and 0.20 m s−1 (SD) for velocity. The accuracy (B = 0.05 m), precision (SD = 0.09 m), and point density (1 point m−2) of the LiDAR topobathymetric survey (regardless of reach complexity) were sufficient to support 2D hydrodynamic modelling and derivative stream habitat and process analyses, because these statistics were comparable to those of model calibration with B = 0 m and SD = 0.04 m for water surface elevation and B = 0.05 m s−1 and SD = 0.22 m s−1 for velocity in our investigation. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Assessing the efficacy of nourishment of a Mediterranean beach using bimodal fluvial sediments and a specific placement design

Several studies have highlighted the difficulties inherent to the use of bimodal fluvial sediments in beach nourishment and the resulting unpredictable behaviour of the beach profile. In this paper, we monitored the temporal evolution of a nourishment project carried out on a northwestern Mediterranean beach and using fluvial mixed sand and gravel nourishment material. The main aim of the study was to examine the morpho-sedimentary evolution of the beach from the injection of the nourishment material to the attainment of a targeted equilibrium profile. The monitoring activity was conducted coupling multiple topo-bathymetric surveys and sediment sampling. The data show that the targeted equilibrium profile was attained less than 2 years after the nourishment, and, since that period, the shoreline has shown minimal mobility. Our results show that the positioning of the nourishment material is as important as the correct choice of grain size to attain rapid and successful nourishment of a beach. Further applications of this methodology in other coastal settings and/or with different nourishment sediments (e.g. medium or fine sands) are presently being considered. If confirmed at a broader scale, this nourishment design, employing bimodal fluvial sediments, should significantly contribute to the mitigation of beach erosion.

Effects of Transverse Groynes on Meso-Habitat Suitability for Native Fish Species on a Regulated By-Passed Large River: A Case Study along the Rhine River

River regulations ultimately degrade fluvial forms and morphodynamics and simplify riparian and aquatic habitats. For several decades, river restoration actions have been performed to recover geomorphic processes and diversify these habitats to enhance both river biodiversity and ecosystem services. The objective of this study is to provide quantitative feedback on the experimental restoration of a large regulated and by-passed river (the Upper Rhine downstream of the Kembs Dam, France/Germany). This restoration consisted of the construction of two transverse groynes and the removal of bank protection. A monitoring framework composed of topo-bathymetric surveys as well as flow velocity and grain size measurements was established to assess the channel morphodynamic responses and evaluate their effects on habitat suitability for five native fish species using habitat models. A riverscape approach was used to evaluate the landscape changes in terms of both the configuration and the composition, which cannot be considered with classic approaches (e.g., Weighted Usable Area). Our results show that the two transverse groynes and, to a lesser extent, bank erosion, which was locally enhanced by the two groynes, increased habitat diversity due to the creation of new macroforms (e.g., pools and mid-bars) and fining of the bed grain size. Using a riverscape approach, our findings highlight that the restoration improved eel and juvenile nase species due to slowing down of the current and the deposition of fine sediments downstream of both groynes. As a consequence, the restoration improved the habitat suitability of the studied reach for more fish species compared with the pre-restoration conditions. This study also demonstrates that the salmon habitats downstream of the restored reach were improved due to fining of the bed grain size. This finding highlights that, for restorations aimed at fish habitats, the grain size conditions must be taken into consideration along with the flow conditions. Furthermore, the implementation of groynes, while not a panacea in terms of functional restoration, can be a strategy for improving fish habitats on highly regulated rivers, but only when more functional and natural options are impossible due to major constraints.

Simultaneous Mapping of Coastal Topography and Bathymetry From a Lightweight Multicamera UAS

A low-cost multicamera Unmanned Aircraft System (UAS) is used to simultaneously estimate open-coast topography and bathymetry from a single longitudinal coastal flight. The UAS combines nadir and oblique imagery to create a wide field of view (FOV), which enables collection of mobile, long dwell timeseries of the littoral zone suitable for structure-from-motion (SfM), and wave speed inversion algorithms. Resultant digital surface models (DSMs) compare well with terrestrial topographic lidar and bathymetric survey data at Duck, NC, USA, with roor-mean-square error (RMSE)/bias of 0.26/–0.05 and 0.34/–0.05 m, respectively. Bathymetric data from another flight at Virginia Beach, VA, USA, demonstrates successful comparison (RMSE/bias of 0.17/0.06 m) in a secondary environment. UAS-derived engineering data products, total volume profiles and shoreline position, were congruent with those calculated from traditional topo-bathymetric surveys at Duck. Capturing both topography and bathymetry within a single flight, the presented multicamera system is more efficient than data acquisition with a single camera UAS; this advantage grows for longer stretches of coastline (10 km). Efficiency increases further with an on-board Global Navigation Satellite System–Inertial Navigation System (GNSS-INS) to eliminate ground control point (GCP) placement. The Appendix reprocesses the Virginia Beach flight with the GNSS–INS input and no GCPs. The resultant DSM products are comparable [root-mean-squared difference (RMSD)/bias of 0.62/−0.09 m, and processing time is significantly reduced.

Coastal embayment rotation: Response to extreme events and climate control, using full embayment surveys

Barrier beach change in directionally bi-modal wave climates presents an increasing challenge for coastal communities, both in the short-term (storm events), and decadal to centurial time scales (long-term evolution). Predicting and planning for subsequent variations requires understanding of the morphological response to changes in wave energy, along with the atmospheric forces driving the wave climate. In this paper, multi-method topo-bathymetric surveys are used to assess the morphological change of a semi-sheltered gravel barrier (Start Bay, Devon, UK). Total sediment budgets (supra- to sub-tidal), with spatially-varying uncertainty levels, indicate the embayment is closed. One third of total sediment flux occurred in the sub-tidal, establishing the importance of sub-tidal transport for this type of coastline. Our results demonstrate that under the predominance of a given wave direction, rotation first occurs within sub-embayments. Additional sustained and extreme energy levels are then required for full embayment rotation to occur, with significant headland bypassing. In this instance, 6 × 105 m3 of gravel was transported alongshore during a 3-year sustained period of dominant-southerly waves, including a 1:50 year storm season (full-embayment rotation), whilst 3 × 105 m3 was returned during a 2-year period of dominant easterly waves (sub-embayment rotation only). A novel parameter is introduced that predicts beach rotation based on the directional wave balance. In turn, winter wave direction is shown to correlate with a combination of two climate indices. Given adequate predictions of relevant climate indices, these findings constitute the basis of a generalisable method to predict and plan for future beach rotation on similar beaches globally.

Field-based numerical model investigation of wave propagation across marshes in the Chesapeake Bay under storm conditions

Saltmarshes have the potential to protect coastal communities from the impact of waves caused by severe storms. While recent developments in numerical models are enhancing the simulation of wave-vegetation interactions, the estimation of the drag coefficient (Cd), used to account for the reduction of wave energy by vegetation, is still a source of uncertainty. In this study, we use a unique combination of field measurements (wave parameters, topo-bathymetric survey and vegetation characteristics) and numerical modelling (XBeach) to evaluate the significance of Cd for calculating wave attenuation by vegetation, and ultimately, improve the representation of the wave propagation across these ecosystems. Wave height propagation simulated by five empirical Cd formulations, including Jadhav, 2012, Anderson and Smith, 2014, Garzon, 2018 (based on Reynolds [Re] and Keulegan-Carpenter [KC] numbers) and Ozeren et al., 2014, was evaluated by comparing against wave heights collected at different locations of two saltmarshes of the Chesapeake Bay during two different storms. This analysis revealed that: 1) Garzon, 2018 (based on Re number) and Anderson and Smith, 2014 formulations provided the most reliable results (relative bias lower than 20%), especially at the first 100 m across the vegetation field; 2) Results provided by Garzon, 2018) (based on KC) formulation yielded relative bias lower than 30%, and it mainly overestimated wave heights; 3) Jadhav, 2012 simulations clearly underestimated wave heights, showing relative bias up to −60%; and 4) Ozeren et al., 2014 (currently implemented in the model) simulations highly overestimated wave heights over the marsh field and displayed a large scatter. Finally, the validated formulation (Garzon, 2018; based on Re number) and vegetation characteristic measurements collected during the fall and winter were employed to explore the seasonal coastal protection variability of these saltmarshes. Our simulations indicated that under similar hydrodynamic conditions, marshes offered between 15% and 30% less protection against waves in the winter than in fall. However, while saltmarshes would provide additional coastal protection from hurricanes in comparison to nor'easters (cool-season extratropical cyclones), we demonstrated that the marshes still offer more protection than non-vegetated fields in both seasons in these locations.

Wave refraction and reef island stability under rising sea level

Abstract The location and stability of low-lying carbonated reef islands are closely related to wave refraction over reef platforms, which create low energy wave convergence zones favorable for sediment deposition. Although there is great concern about the stability of reef islands in future decades, few studies have attempted to assess the effects of sea-level rise on wave refraction patterns and the migration of wave convergence zones, which may promote changes in island positions. To investigate the mechanisms of wave refraction over a shallow lagoon atoll (Rocas Atoll), we performed a detailed topo-bathymetric survey to simulate wave propagation for different water levels and wave conditions considering the complex atoll morphology. Our results show that the locations of convergence zones are not only influenced by wave direction and wave interactions with the elliptical reef shape but also controlled by topographic variations in the reef structure. In particular, the presence of a wide reef passage on the leeward margin of Rocas Atoll has an important role in the atoll wave refraction pattern. Model simulations show a displacement of the wave convergence zone and increase in wave energy under increased sea level. However, the direction of this displacement is more sensitive to the incident wave period than to the wave direction due to topographic control. Swell waves, either from the north or south, tend to move the convergence zone lagoonwards, whereas wind waves tend to move this zone seawards. Thus, the results suggest that, under sea-level rise scenarios, areas prone to sediment accumulation will become less stable. The relative frequency between swell and wind wave incidence will be an important driver of morphological change patterns in reef islands.

Coastal flood assessment due to extreme events at Ensenada, Baja California, Mexico

This paper examines the risk of coastal flooding in Ensenada and surroundings. Using topo-bathymetric surveys, wave and wind data, tidal time series and numerical modelling, a set of flooding maps were obtained to show the effects of sea level variability related to extreme events for different return periods. Results show that flooding in the north of the study area is low, since cliffs of up to 6 m height dominate the geomorphology, so no considerable threat to human assets is envisaged. The south of the area is different; flooding levels could reach human settlements and affect the Punta Banda Lagoon. The flood levels that affect the study area are those associated to return periods of 50 years, while those of return periods 2, 5, 10 and 25 years do not suggest considerable flooding. Thus, as long as there are no substantial modifications of anthropic origin in the coastal zone of Ensenada, the risk of flooding due to extreme events is low, although it is important to consider the erosion that these phenomena could be cause.