The primary component of the lipid barrier on human hair, which is essential for defense against aging and environmental stresses, is 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA), which provides hydrophobic properties and protective benefits. Since 18-MEA cannot be regenerated once damaged, developing technology that can permanently bind alternative materials to hair is critical. Once 18-MEA was removed from hair via X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS), pentaerythritol tetraisoosterate (PTIS) was hydrolyzed and observed via gas chromatography/mass spectrometry (GC/MS) to confirm that it mimicked 18-MEA, and 16-methylheptadecanoic acid (16-MHA) was obtained at pH 4 or lower. 16-MHA was bioconjugated to damaged hair from which 18-MEA was removed via a carbodiimide reaction using polycarbodiimide. Time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (TOF-SIMS) confirmed that 16-MHA remained on the surface of the bioconjugated hair even after washing. Observation of the endothermic reaction of moisture in hair via a differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and evaluation of the moisture content confirmed that the physical properties of hair enriched with 16-MHA were similar to those of virgin hair. This biomimetic approach has been shown to restore both external structural integrity and internal moisture homeostasis.
Read full abstract