Textile Museum Research Articles

STUDI TATA LETAK KETERANGAN (LABEL) DISPLAY PAMERAN DI MUSEUM TEKSTIL JAKARTA

The Indonesian Textile Museum is one of the museums in Jakarta that stores thousands of collections of Nusantara wastra. The Textile Museum functions as a place to preserve, store, exhibit, and publicize wastra or ancient fabrics from various regions, and become a means of education for visitors to get to know traditional Indonesian fabrics. In order for information about traditional fabrics in the Textile Museum to be conveyed well to visitors, one of the factors that play an important role is the layout of the museum display information (label). Labels on exhibition displays have an important role because they become a bridge of communication between the products on display and the visitors who see. Therefore, the layout of the display information must be taken seriously, by applying ergonomics, anthropometry, and typography factors. This study aims to determine the label layout system on displays at the Textile Museum, associated with the application of ergonomics, anthropometry, and typography factors. The method used is descriptive qualitative with ergonomics and anthropometry approach to analyze the display label layout system. The results showed that the position of the product description label had not fully applied ergonomic and anthropometric factors, as well as the selection of fonts and sizes that caused the product description to be less legible.

Chatbot-mediated technology to enhance experiences in historical textile museums

Chatbot-mediated technology to enhance experiences in historical textile museums

Curating Community: Centering Collaboration, Public Engagement, Social Justice, and Empowerment Within the Fashion Museum

North American dress and textile museums have long been rooted in colonial ideals due to the long-standing perpetuation of Eurocentrism as superior to all other ways of knowing. The fashion and textile art exhibition Material Resistance: Social Justice and Empowerment Narratives Told Through Cloth (2022), curated by graduate students, contested these colonial traditions and instead centered the stories, lived experiences, and empowerment of marginalized communities. The exhibition featured social justice-focused textile works of five artists and three community organizations. The curatorial team explored methods to re-envision how curators can center social justice and empowerment within fashion and textile exhibitions through innovative approaches, building upon previous curatorial scholarship that values collaboration and combines tenets of post-critical museology, intersectionality, and self-determination. By prioritizing the voices of the show’s artists and community members, being intentional about the curatorial selection and accessibility, providing opportunities for community engagement, and practicing repatriation, we provide an example of curatorial practice centering the people, not the system that has often disenfranchised them.

Pursuing Equity, Diversity, and Inclusion in Collection Development

The Textile Museum of Canada (the Textile Museum) is pursuing institutional change with a goal to meaningfully address and redress absences in its permanent collection of over 15,000 textiles. To support this goal, the Textile Museum developed a Collection Development Plan guided by emerging best practices supporting Equity, Diversity, and Inclusion in museums, research into the institution’s historical and existing collecting practices and policies, and focus group sessions and interviews with members of multiple communities. These actions led to a series of recommendations for the Textile Museum to implement. Being represented within the Textile Museum’s collection matters to people, and our findings encourage the institution to value intangible heritage (not only material objects), and to care for collections in ways that enliven them through connections with people in storage, exhibition, and digital spaces. This case study presents the origins, process, and outcomes of this ongoing work to institutionalize new practices and imperatives holistically across departments.

New fabric phase sorptive extraction for nondestructive analysis of heritage textile samples

Several types of pesticides used in museum collections over time become dangerous for people who may handle textile articles treated with such substances. In the case of the analysis of ancient, modern, and contemporary textile materials, it is particularly important to keep the artifacts intact, as they cannot be replaced. The need to use micro- or nondestructive techniques led to the development of methods such as solid-phase microextraction (SPME), liquid‒liquid dispersive microextraction (DLLME), and single-droplet microextraction (SDME). In this paper is described an optimized extraction method of three pesticides (malathion, methoxychlor, and permethrin) by creating a non-destructive solid phase extraction system on a textile support, abbreviated FPSE – 100 % cotton fabric coated with a sol-gel solution prepared from a polymer (PEG or PDMS). To obtain a suitable FPSE, the following parameters were evaluated: polymer selection (individual or mixture of polymers), acid catalyst (trifluoroacetic acid, acetic acid and hydrochloride acid), amount of polymer (1.0 g, 2.5 g or 5.0 g), polymerization time (30 min, 120 min and 240 min), ultrasonic bath temperature (40 °C and 70 °C), and type of bath to obtain the sol-gel (ultrasonic bath, water bath with stirring and mechanical stirrer). To complete the FPSE optimization, the influence of pesticide extraction time on FPSE and desorption from FPSE in ethyl acetate was also assessed.The pesticides extraction yields obtained for the laboratory textile samples are in the range of 52.7 %–128.0 %. The technique proposed in the manuscript proved to be effective as a nondestructive tool for evaluating and quantifying the presence of pesticides in textile museum collections. The approach described here reduces heritage object damage due to sampling compared to methods commonly employed and may represent a starting point for future research.

Report on Visit to the Kawashima Textile Museum

Report on Visit to the Kawashima Textile Museum

An Examination of an Inka(?) Aksu in the Collections of The Textile Museum

This paper presents the preliminary results and conclusions from an examination of an exceedingly rare example of a weft-face and tapestry-woven aksu in the collections of The Textile Museum. Patterned with figurative butterflies, the garment closely resembles those depicted by Felipe Guaman Poma de Ayala in several of his illustrations of ceremonies and elite women. Its features present challenges for determining its dates and the level of social status it represents or confers. The similarity between the aksu’s butterflies and those in a checkerboard unku in the Field Museum provides suggestive evidence for its use in an official state setting. Este artículo presenta los resultados preliminares y las conclusiones de un examen de un ejemplo extremadamente raro de un aksu tejido con cara de trama y tapiz en las colecciones del Museo Textil. Esta prenda, estampada con mariposas figurativas, se parece mucho a las representadas por Felipe Guaman Poma de Ayala en varias de sus ilustraciones de ceremonias y mujeres de élite. Sus características presentan desafíos para determinar su cronología y el nivel de estatus social que representa o confiere. La similitud entre las mariposas del aksu y las de un unku de tablero de ajedrez en el Field Museum proporciona evidencia sugerente para su uso en las ceremonias oficiales del estado.

Creation of UI Design Prototype Mobile App Textile Museum to Increase The Number of Visitors, Tourism Marketing and Brand Awareness

Textiles are an important part of Indonesia, both as a component of clothing and as ritual and ceremonial items. The Textile Museum is a museum founded in 1976 which was pioneered by Mr. Ali Sadikin as the governor of DKI Jakarta at that time. However, over time, interest in visiting museums has decreased, especially with the C19 pandemic, many learning tourist attractions such as museums have experienced a decline in visitors. The role of the mobile app interface can make it easier for visitors or potential visitors and anyone to get various information easily and practically. This research will create a prototype UI design mobile apps interface for the Textile Museum using Adobe XD software. The research begins with mapping the problem, determining various solutions, determining the best solution, forming prototypes, and testing the results on target consumers, testing marketing concepts and brand awareness to capture the number of visitors to come to the Textile Museum.

Le musée du Feutre de Mouzon (Ardennes)

Le musée du Feutre de Mouzon (Ardennes)

Design research with the use of visual and symmetry analysis in indigenous woven textiles.

Since ca the 1990s, there have been developments in the weaving process for making tin chok fabrics in the Long district, Phrae province, northern Thailand, with the aim of reducing the production time and increasing the production capacity with respect to poverty alleviation and cultural revitalization. In this article, the symmetry patterns in tin chok fabrics in a collection of 17 vintage (traditional) skirts held in the Komol Antique Textile Museum, in the Long district, are examined to determine how to distinguish tin chok fabrics woven by the integrated method from those woven by the traditional method. The research includes visual and symmetry analysis, literature review, fieldwork, and the creation of a pattern booklet. This research reveals that the hem, which is one of the four parts (supplementary part one, the main part, supplementary part two and the hem) of the detachable tin chok, is key to distinguishing the fabrics made by the two methods. The four parts of tin chok made by the integrated method will always have a common vertical axis of symmetry, whereas the vertical axes of symmetry of the hem of a fabric made by the traditional method may not be aligned with the motifs in the other three parts. The frieze groups of the individual parts of the 17 vintage (traditional) skirts are decoded and possible corresponding patterns for weaving by the integrated method are generated.

Motif Seni Hias Koleksi Cutam Di Jabatan Muzium Malaysia

This writing is a report on the study of niello’s collection motif that has been carried out in five locations, namely the National Museum, the Perak Museum, the Malay World Ethnology Museum, the National Textile Museum and the repository of the Collection Management Division, Department of Museums Malaysia. Niello is a decorative art technique applied to gold, silver and copper carpentry. Niello is a black alloy that is used to fill in carved decorations with the aim of giving attractiveness and a contrasting color to silver items. The community recognizes the niello technique or translated into English as niello or nielloware based on the blue and dark blue colors that result on the surface of gold, silver and copper carpentry carvings. This study of motifs of decorative art was carried out in order to identify the motifs found in niello’s collection. As a result, a total of 127 of niello’s collections in the five locations have been identified and categorized into 18 types of material culture. From the 18 types of cultural equipment, the researcher has made observations and classified the samples into four motif themes, namely plant motifs, animal motifs, Hindu-Buddhist figure motifs and Arabic inscription motifs. The researcher's observations of each sample are made with references from book sources, field studies, journals and also interviews with the respondents. The results of the study show that motifs with Hindu-Buddhist influence such as mythical animal motifs (garuda, kinnari and kinnara, kochasri and others), 12 zodiac animal motifs, lotus-based plant motifs (kranok, dao klip bua and lai dok bua , lai bai bua, dok lai and kan bai bua), jasmine flowers and cotton flowers as well as 3 Hindu Buddhist religious figures (Rama, Hanuman and the deity Theppanom) were found in the collection of cutam at the five locations of the study. Also found is three niello pending with Arabic number inscription motif.

Radical Structural Change in North American Dress and Textile Museums and Collections: Critically Analyzing Social Justice, Oppression, and Empowerment

The purpose of our research was to examine how dress and textile collections or museums have explicitly and implicitly conveyed solidarity with social-justice efforts. This includes how institutions have made antidiscrimination part of their guiding principles, as well as how these ideologies may have materialized in exhibitions. Using content analysis, we analyzed mission statements, diversity statements, and exhibition titles and descriptions of 134 North American dress and textile museums or collections. We identified five themes in the mission statements: preserving knowledge, education, spectrum of social-justice related language, oppressive language, and other commitments. We found that about half of the museums or collections had diversity statements and most created solidarity statements against racism on social media. A little less than half of the institutions explicitly incorporated social justice within exhibition titles and descriptions. Positive steps were made among these institutions to combat discrimination, but there is work still to be done.

Korean Fashion: From Royal Court to Runway, The George Washington University Museum and The Textile Museum, Washington DC, USA, August 20, 2022 - December 22, 2022

Korean Fashion: From Royal Court to Runway, The George Washington University Museum and The Textile Museum, Washington DC, USA, August 20, 2022 - December 22, 2022

Sea Change: Ottoman Textiles between the Mediterranean and the Indian Ocean

Sea Change: Ottoman Textiles between the Mediterranean and the Indian Ocean

Weaving words for textile museums: the development of the linked SILKNOW thesaurus

The cultural heritage domain in general and silk textiles, in particular, are characterized by large, rich and heterogeneous data sets. Silk heritage vocabulary comes from multiple sources that have been mixed up across time and space. This has led to the use of different terminology in specialized organizations in order to describe their artefacts. This makes data interoperability between independent catalogues very difficult. To address these issues, SILKNOW created a multilingual thesaurus related to silk textiles. It was carried out by experts in textile terminology and art historians and computationally implemented by experts in text mining, multi-/cross-linguality and semantic extraction from text. This paper presents the rationale behind the realization of this thesaurus.

A Study of Form and Content of Bracelets from The Textile Museum Collections

Bracelets have been important items of adornment among Malaysians, especially for women. From the time of the Melaka Sultanate and many centuries before that, bracelets have become one of the essential pieces of jewelry to be worn. There are many types of bracelets with a variety of names. The focus of this study is on bracelets. There were 7 bracelets used as a study material collected from the Textile Museum. The lack of resources and collections available in the museums was the main problem of the study. The main objective is to identify and categorize the motifs of the bracelets. A qualitative method was used. The primary data was obtained through observation and interviews while the secondary data included photographs and writing materials. The results indicated different categories of motifs. The collection of the data was analyzed according to motifs and subject matters. The motifs of the bracelets were from flora, fauna, geometric, organic, and nature. Most of the bracelets were decorated with numerous repeated motifs. This study can be continued by pursuing more in-depth on the bracelets from the aspect of their motifs and their relationship with the meaning of the motif.

A Study of Form and Content of Bracelets from The Textile Museum Collections

A Study of Form and Content of Bracelets from The Textile Museum Collections

Sustainable Packaging Material Based on PCL Nanofibers and Lavandula luisieri Essential Oil, to Preserve Museological Textiles.

The connection with textiles is one of the oldest traditions in humanity, and in the historical scenario, textiles and clothing deal with material culture. Therefore, preservation is of the utmost importance to keep this important heritage. Packaging and protection of museological textiles is imperative due to the risks that these articles suffer, mainly concerning the attack of microorganisms that promote the acceleration of their degradation, and it is still necessary to create a proper packing material. In the present work we describe a bibliographic review about the museological scenario, focused on the packaging for preservation of textile articles, as well as the techniques usually used in preventive material conservation. Future perpsctives for the improvement in the conservation of museological textiles are also given. This research aims to produce a sustainable material based on polycaprolactone (PCL), with and without antimicrobial function by incorporating Lavandula luisieri essential oil (EO), in the form of a non-woven substrate for museological packaging. A comparison was made with the most frequently used materials, such as raw cotton and a non-woven polyester. The results demonstrated that both PCL and PCL + EO obtained a good characterization for museological application with good breaking strength and excellent whiteness index. In addition, PCL + EO showed a high bacterial reduction when compared with other protective materials frequently used in museums. Therefore, these findings emphasize the potential use of this material as an innovative protective antibacterial museological packaging solution, able to safeguard and preserve textile museum and clothing collections for longer and for future generations.

RANCANG BANGUN SISTEM INFORMASI INVENTARIS KOLEKSI PADA MUSEUM TEKSTIL JAKARTA

The development of information technology is currently very rapid, where computers play an important role invarious fields, one of which is processing inventory data. Inventory is an activity or action to carry out physicalcollection of existing assets (collection inventory) in an integrated manner in the management of propertyownership data. The Jakarta Textile Museum is a cultural heritage that houses various collections of Indonesianfabrics and batik tools, which act as an Indonesian textile sanctuary institution and a documentation and research center for traditional Indonesian textiles. Inventory data processing to create a collection of labels to be exhibited at the Jakarta Textile Museum is still done manually, where the technical and administrative data obtained are entered into Microsoft Excel. In the manual processing of inventory data, problems were found such as insufficient or incomplete data. Based on this explanation, the author makes a Final Project report with the title "Design ofan Inventory Information System for Collections at the Jakarta Textile Museum".

Textile Museum Collections. SIM Method Validation for the Assessment of Pesticides

In time the environmental conditions could damage textiles (materials/ artifacts) causing the need to develop better non-destructive or at least micro-destructive analysis techniques of the samples. There are ethnographic textile artifacts that were treated in the past with various pesticides, that have not been mentioned in any document. These are often re-treated with chemicals by museum staff as a method of preventing pest infestation. Due to the progressive use of many pesticides, this paper was focused on the detection and quantification of three pesticides: malathion, methoxychlor, and permethrin (cis- and trans- isomers). Gas chromatography is one of the most widely used analytical techniques for characterizing volatile organic compounds and therefore was the analytical method of choice for the present study. Because these analytes are found at trace levels, the detection and quantification limits of analytes are very small and it is necessary to optimize and validate a SIM method - that allows the mass spectrometer to detect specific compounds with high sensitivity. In SIM mode, the instrument is set to collect data at selected masses of interest, thus increasing the accuracy and precision of the quantitative results. The present paper is aimed to develop this type of method with specificity and selectivity, high precision (expressed in terms of repeatability and intermediate accuracy), accuracy, suitable working range and linearity, and high degree of series� homogenity.