Textile Chemicals Research Articles

The effect of cobalt-doped ZnO-g-C3N4 heterostructures on photocatalytic degradation of eosin yellow dye in water under simulated solar light

The unrestricted discharge of textile chemicals in natural water sources has posed major ecological and environmental threats to our standard of living. For decades, there has been a continuous search for affordable, and visible-light driven semiconductors with the capability of harnessing the full potential of sunlight to help curb the aforementioned problem. Herein, photocatalysts based on a series of cobalt (Co) and graphitic carbon nitride (g-C3N4) co-doped ZnO were synthesized via the co-precipitation method for eosin yellow dye degradation in water under visible light. The functional groups present in the materials were determined by FTIR. Other techniques such as Ultraviolet–visible (UV–Vis) spectrophotometry, X-ray powder diffraction (XRD), scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (EDX) were utilized to study the optical properties, structural properties, morphology and elemental composition respectively. The nanomaterials' optical analysis showed a marginal rise in absorbance in the visible region with a corresponding reduction in the forbidden gap energy from 3.10 to 2.52 eV. XRD studies showed that the nanocomposites were polycrystalline in nature and possessed the hexagonal phase of ZnO having an average crystallite size of 42 nm. From the photocatalysis outcomes, the maximum photocatalytic performance was observed for the 0.8 % Co-doped ZnO-g-C3N4 system, which degraded 96 % of the dye in 180 min, with a rate constant of 17.01 x 10−3 min−1. The incorporation of Co enhanced ZnO's outstanding photocatalytic activity in the g- C3N4–ZnO system.

Implications of circular textile policies for the future regulation of hazardous substances in textiles in the European Union

The textile industry's business model is currently unsustainable and systemic changes must be made. The transition to a circular textile economy can be a major lever for this. However, it faces multiple issues, including the (in)ability of current legislations to provide sufficient protection regarding hazardous chemicals in recirculating materials. It is therefore crucial to identify legislative gaps that prevent the implementation of a safe circular textile economy, and to identify which chemicals could jeopardize this process. With this study, we aim to identify hazardous substances that could be found in recirculated textiles, to identify and discuss gaps in current regulations covering chemicals in textiles, and to suggest solutions to ensure better safety of circular textiles. We compile and analyze data on 715 chemicals and their associated functions, textile production stage, and hazard data. We also present how chemicals have been regulated over time and discuss regulations' strengths and weaknesses in the perspective of circular economy. We finally discuss the recently proposed Ecodesign regulation, and which key point should be included in the future delegated acts. We found that most of the compiled chemicals present at least one recognized or suspected hazard. Among them, there were 228 CMR (carcinogenic, mutagenic, reprotoxic substances), 25 endocrine disruptors, 322 skin allergens or sensitizers, and 51 respiratory allergens or sensitizers. 30 chemicals completely or partially lack hazard data. 41 chemicals were found to present a risk for consumers, among which 15 recognized or suspected CMR and 36 recognized or suspected allergens/sensitizers. Following the analysis of regulations, we argue that an improved risk assessment of chemicals should consider chemicals specific hazardous properties and product's multiple life cycles, instead of being limited to the product's end-of-life stage. We especially argue that implementing a safe circular textile economy requires that chemicals of concern are eliminated from the market.

Solvent-free automated thermal desorption-gas chromatography/mass spectrometry for direct screening of hazardous compounds in consumer textiles

The global production of textiles utilizes numerous large-volume chemicals that may remain to some extent in the finished garments. Arylamines, quinolines, and halogenated nitrobenzene compounds are possible mutagens, carcinogens and/or skin sensitizers. For prevention, control of clothing and other textiles must be improved, especially those imported from countries without regulations of textile chemicals. An automated analytical methodology with on-line extraction, separation, and detection would largely simplify screening surveys of hazardous chemicals in textiles. Automated thermal desorption-gas chromatography/mass spectrometry (ATD-GC/MS) was developed and evaluated as a solvent-free, direct chemical analysis for screening of textiles. It requires a minimum of sample handling with a total run time of 38 min including sample desorption, chromatographic separation, and mass spectrometric detection. For most of the studied compounds, method quantification limit (MQL) was below 5 µg/g for 5 mg of textile sample, which is sufficiently low for screening and control of quinoline and arylamines regulated by EU. Several chemicals were detected and quantified when the ATD-GC/MS method was applied in a limited pilot screening of synthetic fiber garments. A number of arylamines were detected, where some of the halogenated dinitroanilines were found in concentrations up to 300 µg/g. This is ten times higher than the concentration limit for similar arylamines listed by the EU REACH regulation. Other chemicals detected in the investigated textiles were several quinolines, benzothiazole, naphthalene, and 3,5-dinitrobromobenzene. Based on the present results, we suggest ATD-GC/MS as a screening method for the control of harmful chemicals in clothing garments and other textiles.Graphical abstract

Chemical of concern for raising awareness to Indonesian textile sustainability

It is well known that textiles and textile products may contain hazardous compounds. Formally, all imported textiles and textile products must be registered through the Indonesian Custom. Ideally, the Indonesian Custom has the capability to detect chemicals of concern in textiles or textile products entering Indonesian territory. However, this is not the case, particularly for chemicals listed in the Stockholm Convention. The difficulties arise from the lack of identification regarding substances listed in the Stockholm Convention that might be present in textiles, textile products, and finished products. The Indonesian Government has initiated programs to assess the presence of persistent organic pollutants (POPs) in Indonesian territory. Results of the assessment were elaborated in the National Implementation Plan Document on POPs, which was updated recently. Not all substances listed in the Stockholm Convention can be described in depth. Some POPs such as short-chain chlorinated paraffins (SCCPs) and polychlorinated naphthalenes have not been included in Indonesian regulation, particularly in Indonesian Customs Tariff Book, making it extremely difficult to assess them. Nevertheless, a preliminary assessment of polybrominated diphenyl ethers and SCCPs has been carried out. Using the Tier 1 approach, it was revealed that 2,194 tonnes of SCCPs was imported from India to Indonesia, which was listed under HS code 38249090 that covered CP52 (containing 50–54% chlorinated paraffins). Furthermore, another prominent issue for chemicals of concern (CoC) in textiles was the use of lead-containing dyes, nonylphenols, and nonylphenol ethoxylates. The latter two compounds are known to be used in detergents and surfactants during textile manufacturing processes. At present, nonylphenols and nonylphenol ethoxylates are not listed in Indonesian laws for regulated chemicals in textiles and textile products, as well as in the wastewater quality standard for the textile industry. Therefore, to avoid circular economy obstacles of used textiles and textile products and support sustainable Indonesian textiles, a systematic inventory of CoC in textiles is very important.

Educational Communication in Learning Batik as Preservation of Local Wisdom Products for the Young Generation

Batik as a product of artistic heritage, culture, local wisdom, and the identity of the Indonesian nation needs to be preserved, especially among the younger generation. The research aims to analyze This study aims to analyze the communication of batik education for the younger generation as an effort to preserve local wisdom products. The research used case studies to be able to construct reality more deeply by collecting data through observation, in-depth interviews, documentation, and Focus Group Discussions (FGD) as well as using qualitative analysis. Research informants were determined through purposive sampling consisting of teachers and students in grades XI and XII who entered the batik department at the research location of the Vocational High School in the Susukan area and the Wardah batik business group as partners in internship and practicum activities as research locations in Susukan District. Banjarnegara Regency, Central Java Province of Indonesia. The results showed: (1) Batik craftsmen and entrepreneurs have generally from the old age group above 50 years old and only become part-time or additional workers, so there is a need for regeneration of batik among the younger generation. (2) Students choosing batik majors have the potential to become the next generation to become batik craftsmen and entrepreneurs. (3) Batik needs to be preserved, especially among the younger generation with the support of government policies through formal educational communication in the curriculum of the school and non-formal materials with continuous community empowerment, then requiring the use of batik products for school uniforms and public or private employees. (4) The subject matter and batik empowerment program are designing batik motifs, making batik to coloring with textile chemicals and natural dyes, making eco-prints, and marketing promotion media for batik products.

Mitigating Risks in Inappropriate Handling of Chemicals by Small-Scale Textile Producers in Sekondi-Takoradi, Ghana

Textile chemicals such as dyes, printing pigments, additives, oxidising agents and reducing agents can be very injurious to the body and the environment if not properly used. The prime focus of this study is to promote and maintain a safe and healthy environment by ensuring the highest level of environmental health and safety assistance for small scale textile dyers and chemical suppliers within the Sekondi-Takoradi Metropolitan Area of Ghana. Case Study, a descriptive research approach is used because data came mainly from archives, library and by direct observation of textile production practices at the small-scale level. The population for the study involved batik producers, tie-dye producers, screen printers and textile chemical suppliers and dealers. Interviews and observations were used in soliciting relevant data. Data collected was analysed and presented. The study suggests appropriate ways of working with dyes and other chemicals for dyeing. It also simplified information on the available Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for the understanding of the textile producers. This was tailored towards improving communication with the small-scale textile producers who collectively constitute a big percentage of textile producers in Ghana.

What difference can drop-in substitution actually make? A life cycle assessment of alternative water repellent chemicals

Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFASs) are used in durable water repellents (DWRs) on outdoor garments and manufacturers are currently phasing out hazardous PFASs. A critical question is: which alternatives should be chosen? The answer should depend on a holistic assessment, but the published inventory data and methodological guidance for assessing PFAS in products is slim and typically limited to hazard assessment. We aim to provide a holistic assessment of the potential environmental consequences of this phase out of DWRs, going beyond the more traditional hazard-focused substitution assessment to also include a broad life-cycle-based assessment of PFASs and their drop-in alternatives.In this study, potential environmental consequences of the phase out were evaluated by applying a life cycle assessment (LCA) to shell jackets with side-chain fluorinated polymer based (i.e., PFASs) or non-fluorinated alternative DWRs with the aim to support a substitution assessment. We demonstrated an innovative approach to impact assessment by inclusion of PFAS related fate and toxicity and invested effort towards contributing new primary inventory data by using a combination of industry dialogue and performance measurements from our larger project context.From a methodological point of view, this paper demonstrates the state-of-the-art in product LCA of persistent textile chemicals and identifies the current limits of this assessment approach. It also delivers new LCI data of use to other analysts. The LCA results in this paper suggest that jackets without PFASs are environmentally preferable. Potential problem shifting due to increased washing and reimpregnation of the jackets did not outweigh PFAS-related potential toxicity impacts as indicated by LCA results. Based on the results presented here, specific DWRs within the non-fluorinated DWR group could not be identified as preferable to others. This LCA does however provide a relevant starting point for more detailed studies on specific DWR systems and it supports moves to phase-out PFASs from non-essential DWR uses.

Chemical Footprint of the Wet Processing of Cotton Fabric

The chemical footprint (ChF) can identify the harmful effects of discharged chemical pollutants, helping producers to select environmentally friendly chemicals to reduce their negative environmental impact. This paper quantified and evaluated the ChF of the wet processing of cotton fabric with data collected from a dyeing enterprise. The results showed that the discharged sodium hydroxide caused the most severe impact in terms of both human toxicity and ecotoxicity due to the extensive usage and its high toxicity. The discharged sodium carbonate and dimethyl silicone oil also had a greater environmental impact. Comprehensive evaluation of human toxicity and ecotoxicity with a multi-objective grey target decision-making model indicated that the pretreatment process had the most significant impact, followed by the finishing process and dyeing process. More attention should be paid to the pretreatment process, such as the selection of environmentally friendly textile chemicals, in order to reduce the native impacts of the wet processing of cotton fabric.

Control quantity or toxicity of textile chemicals? A case study of denim jeans in the warp-dyeing phase

The extensive use and discharge of chemicals is one of the main factors leading to serious environmental pollution in the textiles and apparel industry. The chemical footprint (ChF) is a toxicity-based chemical management method that is used to quantitatively evaluate the potential toxic effects of chemical pollutants discharged during the production of textiles and apparel products on human health and environmental safety. Compared with the traditional quantity-based method, this method needs to simulate the entire process of chemicals from discharge to impact, involving a series of steps of fate, exposure and effect, which greatly increases the difficulty of modeling. A scientific question is whether it is worth spending so much effort to quantify the toxicity of chemicals. Taking the warp-dyeing phase of denim jeans as an example, this paper calculated the ChFs for both human and ecological toxicities of textile chemicals based on the USEtox model, and compared them with the values of discharge quantities. The results reveal that there is a certain inconsistency between the discharge quantity and toxicity of chemical substances. Relying solely on the amount of chemicals discharged can sometimes lead to misjudgments, emphasizing the importance of controlling the toxicity of chemicals.

Waste Management Strategies in Textile & Garment Sector

Textiles and Apparel (T&A) sector is one of the most significant industrial sectors and plays a major role towards contribution to national economy, employment generation and exports in developing countriesand most essential consumer goods industry. However, textile industry is accused of being one of the most polluting industries. Not only production but consumption of textiles also produces waste. To counter the problem, textile industry has taken many measures for reducing its negative contribution towards environment. One of such measures is textile recycling- the reuse as well as reproduction of fibers from textile waste. Recycling can be done through thermal, material, chemical and mechanical processes. Textile recycling is beneficial for environmental and economic conditions, reducing demand for textile chemicals, requirement of landfill space is reduced, consumption of less energy and reducing of water wastage. Market research, and efforts are needed to increase consumer awareness and to encourage manufacturers to increase the use of recycled textile waste into new products. Fashion consumption and sustainability are often opposing ideas. Fashion consumption is a highly resource-intensive, wasteful practice; and sustainability frowns on wasteful consumption. Sustainability in the fashion business is still an emerging agenda, not yet established, and many authors have recognised the importance of investigating how sustainability could be achieved

Identifying Practices and Prospects of Chemical Safety and Security in the Bangladesh Textiles Sector

The textile sector is the backward linkage industry for the $30 billion USD apparel sector of Bangladesh, which is the key contributor to the rapid growth of Bangladesh’s economy. This major export-oriented sector of the country consumes a large amount of complex chemical substances for different stages of its processing. It is estimated that almost 1.47 million metric tons of chemicals have been consumed by the textile sector of Bangladesh in fiscal year 2017–2018, which is worth over about $2 billion USD. The chemicals that are consumed by the textile sector are mostly imported from other countries. Alongside imported chemicals, locally produced chemicals are also consumed. This rapidly growing sector has faced hurdles regarding safe, sound, and secure management of chemicals. Textile industries depend on chemical management regulations provided by buyers. There is no existing government policy on textile chemical safety and security. Local textile industries are heavily dependent on chemical management regulations provided by multinational apparel brands, commonly known as buyers. There are stringent regulations based on different private and global chemical management programs, policies, treaties, and frameworks, which mainly address chemical safety and occupational health and safety but hardly address chemical security. Buyers have limited control over chemical formulators, mode of transportation of potentially hazardous chemicals from port to factory gate, and internal transportation of chemicals within the facility and chemical storage. There are significant lapses in electric surveillance, maintaining “live” inventory, and proper segregation in chemical storage units onsite. These practices possess threats of chemical accidents, theft of chemicals, and siege or sabotage within textile industries. This article represents the current practices and prospects of chemical safety and security management in textile industries of Bangladesh. It provides a detailed analysis of textile chemicals consumed in Bangladesh, particularly in knit and woven dyeing industries. Different global and sectoral chemical safety and security frameworks have been analyzed with respect to textile chemicals here. The article aims at cross-linking global, private, and public frameworks for chemical safety and security and addressing key elements of a national textile chemical safety and security policy for Bangladesh. This study could be useful to develop chemical security policies that are missing in the national legal instrument of Bangladesh and to support buyers in efforts to incorporate chemical security and modify safety aspects in the regulations.

Developmental effects of three textile chemicals on locomotor activity, antioxidant markers and acetylcholine esterase activity in zebrafish

Textile chemicals discharged into the water bodies cause huge impact on human health and environment. However, the adverse effects of textile chemicals during critical period of brain development are not explored. This study uses zebrafish to assess the developmental toxicity of three textile chemicals. Zebrafish embryos were exposed to different concentrations (1, 5, 10, 20 and 40 PPM) of Naphthalene sulfonic acid (NSA), Metanilic acid (MA) and Acid blue 113 (AB113) from 18 h post-fertilization (HPF) to 96 HPF, respectively. Several endpoints, such as mortality, morphological abnormalities and locomotor activity of embryos and larvae were studied. Biochemical detection of oxidative stress, glutathione and acetylcholine esterase was subsequently tested. The survival rate was decreased (LC (50): 1PPM) by NSA, MSA or AB113 and at > 5PPM a 90% mortality was observed respectively. Exposure to 1 PPM of NSA, MSA or AB113 significantly reduced the locomotor activity in an age dependent manner. However, no neurodegenerative phenotypes were noted. The glutathione and acetylcholine esterase activity (P <0.05) was decreased while malondialdehyde content was accumulated by NSA, MSA or AB113 treatment. The overall findings suggest that the selected textile dyes exposed during critical window development is able to produce oxidative stress and exert noticeable effects on locomotor activity in zebrafish embryos by altering acetylcholine esterase activity.

Market Opportunities for “More Sustainable Chemistry” Through the REACH Regulation - Results from a Case Study of the Global Supply Chains in the Textile and Sporting Goods Industry

The report outlines the results of the research project ‘Market opportunities for “more sustainable chemistry” through the REACH Regulation (Sustainable Sporting Goods – SuSport)’. The aim of the project completed in 2018 is to support ‘more sustainable chemistry’ in the textile supply chain and to broaden the view from the ‘reactive’ compliance position to a ‘proactive’ – beyond compliance perspective. Strategically, this approach is based on the following consideration: those who still want to be ‘compliant’ tomorrow have to act ‘beyond compliance’ today. Such a strategy not only guarantees legal compliance, but also opens up new market opportunities. Relevant actors participating in the transdisciplinary research project are mainly manufacturers of textile chemicals (organised in Germany in the TEGEWA association, partner in the SuSport project) as well as companies that manufacture and sell textile products, such as clothing and sporting goods (for sporting goods in Germany organised in the BSI, also project partner). However, since the project’s subject addresses a transformation process of the global textile supply chains, all other actors involved in the production processes must also be taken into account.

Investigation of the Deposition Time of Electrosprayed Textile Chemicals

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A study on computerized selection of fluorescent dyes for environmentally friendly textile applications

In this manuscript, a computerized systematic analysis system for identifying and selecting fluorescent dyes suitable for textile dyeing applications is discussed. Five representative fluorescent dyes are recommended for textile applications based on the overall evaluations. The analytical system includes rating fluorescent dyes based on their quantum yields, computational modeling of their structural features, estimation of their aquatic environmental toxicity, and calculation of their affinity to fibers. This system could significantly reduce and prevent negative consequences of applying fluorescent chemicals in textiles and consumer products.

Highly fluorinated chemicals in functional textiles can be replaced by re-evaluating liquid repellency and end-user requirements

Ongoing regulation of, and concerns regarding, per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (also popularly known as “highly fluorinated chemicals”), has driven the textile market to search for sustainable alternative chemistries that can provide similar liquid repellency to per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances in performance textiles. This paper aims to inform the potential substitution of fluorochemicals with more environmentally friendly durable water repellents, taking a case-by-case approach and evaluating protection needs for consumer outdoor clothing and medical protective clothing separately. Recently developed non-fluorinated durable water repellents, some based on green chemistry principles, were evaluated in an in-depth assessment for their functionality against fluorinated short-chain alternatives (with hydro-and oleophobic moieties of carbon chain length of six or less). Repellency towards water and non-polar liquids was evaluated with established standard test methods and by measuring the roll-off angle of liquid droplets with a novel sample holder setup. This improved method allowed an enhanced mechanistic understanding of the droplets’ roll-off processes on woven textiles. The best non-fluorinated alternatives demonstrated high water repellency equal to fluorinated side-chain polymers with 'short' fluorinated carbon chains ≤6 carbons, and should be considered as suitable substitutes for consumer outdoor clothing. These results are supported by a survey of end-use requirements indicating water repellency and durability were the most important purchasing criteria. For polar liquids, with lower surface tensions, the repellency provided by non-fluorinated alternatives was clearly reduced, although they had a moderate repellency towards liquids with intermediate polarity (e.g. red wine or synthetic blood). Only fluorinated side-chain polymers with 'short' fluorinated carbon chains ≤6 carbons were seen to provide sufficient protection to polar liquids with very low surface tension (olive oil or gastric fluid). Since occupational protective clothing (e.g. medical clothing) often must provide protection against liquid of a wider range of polarities (e.g. in the case of medical clothing, to bodily fluids and protect the wearer from the transmission of diseases), current non-fluorinated DWRs do not provide sufficient liquid repellency. This implies that innovations in textile technology are still needed to substitute PFASs in some types of occupational protective clothing and other end uses where oil and stain repellency is essential.

Textile chemicals market worth $31.64 bn by 2023

Textile chemicals market worth $31.64 bn by 2023

An inventory framework for inclusion of textile chemicals in life cycle assessment

PurposeToxicity impacts of chemicals have only been covered to a minor extent in LCA studies of textile products. The two main reasons for this exclusion are (1) the lack of life cycle inventory (LCI) data on use and emissions of textile-related chemicals, and (2) the lack of life cycle impact assessment (LCIA) data for calculating impacts based on the LCI data. This paper addresses the first of these two.MethodsIn order to facilitate the LCI analysis for LCA practitioners, an inventory framework was developed. The framework builds on a nomenclature for textile-related chemicals which was used to build up a generic chemical product inventory for use in LCA of textiles. In the chemical product inventory, each chemical product and its content was modelled to fit the subsequent LCIA step. This means that the content and subsequent emission data are time-integrated, including both original content and, when relevant, transformation products as well as impurities. Another key feature of the framework is the modelling of modularised process performance in terms of emissions to air and water.Results and discussionThe inventory framework follows the traditional structure of LCI databases to allow for use together with existing LCI and LCIA data. It contains LCI data sets for common textile processes (unit processes), including use and emissions of textile-related chemicals. The data sets can be used for screening LCA studies and/or, due to their modular structure, also modified. Modified data sets can be modelled from recipes of input chemicals, where the chemical product inventory provides LCA-compatible content and emission data. The data sets and the chemical product inventory can also be used as data collection templates in more detailed LCA studies.ConclusionsA parallel development of a nomenclature for and acquisition of LCI data resulted in the creation of a modularised inventory framework. The framework advances the LCA method to provide results that can guide towards reduced environmental impact from textile production, including also the toxicity impacts from textile chemicals.RecommendationsThe framework can be used for guiding stakeholders of the textile sector in macro-level decisions regarding the effectiveness of different impact reduction interventions, as well as for guiding on-site decisions in textile manufacturing.

Heterologous expression and biochemical characterization of a GHF9 endoglucanase from the termite Reticulitermes speratus in Pichia pastoris

BackgroundCellulases are of great significance for full utilization of lignocellulosic biomass. Termites have an efficient ability to degrade cellulose. Heterologous production of the termite-origin cellulases is the first step to realize their industrial applications. The use of P. pastoris for the expression of recombinant proteins has become popular. The endoglucanase from Reticulitermes speratus (RsEG), belonging to glycoside hydrolase family 9 (GHF9), has not been produced in P. pastoris yet.ResultsA mutant RsEGm (G91A/Y97W/K429A) was successfully overexpressed in P. pastoris. RsEGm, with optimum pH 5.0, was active over the pH range of 4.0 to 9.0, and exhibited superior pH stability over between pH 4.0 and pH 11.0. It displayed the highest activity and good stability at 40 °C, but lost activity quickly at 50 °C. The apparent kinetic parameters of RsEGm against Carboxymethyl Cellulose (CMC) were determined, with Km and Vmax of 7.6 mg/ml and 5.4 μmol/min•mg respectively. Co2+, Mn2+ and Fe2+ enhanced the activity of RsEGm by 32.0, 19.5 and 11.2% respectively, while Pb2+ and Cu2+ decreased its activity by 19.6 and 12.7% separately.ConclusionsRsEGm could be overexpressed in P. pastoris. It was stable between pH 4.0 and pH 11.0, and exhibited higher stability at temperatures ≤ 40 °C. This endoglucanase may have potential to be used in the field of laundry, textile and lignocellulose-based biofuels and chemicals.

Towards Reflexive Responsibility in a Textile Supply Chain

AbstractModern industrial society has transformed the textile sector. Brand‐owning companies today seldom own the production process but instead rely on global supply chains consisting of a myriad of suppliers and sub‐suppliers. The global scope of this sector, along with the complex and uncertain health and environmental risks associated with textile production, create extensive challenges for companies striving for sustainability. This paper explores the possibilities for responsible management of high‐risk chemicals in textiles and focuses on a case study of a Swedish outdoor company. The concept of reflexive responsibility is used to understand and discuss potential possibilities and challenges. The paper describes the process and illuminates the complexity, balancing acts and avenues for upstream responsibility faced by a brand‐owning company. It contributes to an understanding of how important steps towards responsibility can be taken. It also addresses the limits of responsible supply chain management of one organization, albeit a highly committed one. Copyright © 2018 John Wiley &amp; Sons, Ltd and ERP Environment