Test Garments Research Articles

Predicting consumers’ garment fit satisfactions by using machine learning

Abstract The objectives of this study were to apply alternative machine learning (ML) algorithms to predict consumers’ garment fit satisfactions (real fit satisfaction [RFS]) and compare the efficiencies of these algorithms to predict RFS. Skirts made from different fabrics were used as test garments. Mechanical properties of the skirts’ fabrics were assigned as predictor variables to estimate RFS. Study participants’ virtual body models were created by using 3D body scanner and used for virtual fitting. Each participant physically tried on the skirts and evaluated the fit. Participants also viewed the skirt simulations on their avatars and evaluated the virtual fit, which represented participants’ virtual fit satisfactions (VFS). Random Forest (RF), support vector machine (SVM), and conditional tree (CT) algorithms were used to learn from the data to predict participants’ RFSs. The mean correlations between the predicted and observed RFS values in the validation sets were 0.74 (RF), 0.70 (SVM-linear kernel), 0.72 (SVM-radial kernel), and 0.55 (CT). According to the variable importance analysis, VFS had the highest importance among 35 predictor variables. ML is used mostly for sales forecasting and manufacturing purposes in the fashion industry. However, garment fit, which restrains consumers from shopping online, did not get enough attention in ML studies. Besides, the ML algorithms used in fashion and apparel studies are often genetic algorithms and neural networks; therefore, there is a need to test other algorithm types. In this study, we offered alternative ML algorithms (i.e., RF, SVM, and CT) to predict consumers’ garment fit satisfactions.

The impact of substrate dampness on the transfer of glass fragments to upper garments when breaking windows

Glass fragments are often recovered from garments worn by the authors of certain types of crimes and are useful as they present strong connections to the scene at both the source and activity level. It is known that the transfer of glass fragments is impacted when recipient garments are dampened, such as by rain, however, the details of the effect are not clear. This research aimed to determine the impact of substrate dampness on glass retention. Across the three test garments, a cotton t-shirt was found to increase in retentiveness with increasing dampness, while a wool/polyester blend jumper and a cotton hoodie were both found to increase only to a point, before decreasing again when the garment was saturated. This is attributed to the construction of the fabrics, as it does not appear to be related to the identity of the textile itself. It was also found that the size distribution of fragments changed with dampness. All the garments retained a smaller proportion of fragments less than 0.5 mm in size when saturated or dampened than when dry, along with an increase in the proportion of fragments in the 1–1.5 mm and greater than 1.5 mm size categories. These results indicate that is important to consider the impact of substrate dampening when relevant, and that this consideration must be done holistically as different substrates respond to dampening in different ways. It also indicates that consideration of the size distribution in fragment populations may reveal additional information in complex scenarios.

Analysis of Thermal Sensation and Wearing Comfort before and after Bikram Yoga Activity

This study evaluated the effect of functional characteristics of the fabric for Bikram yoga clothing and fit measured in clothing pressure on the wearer''s physiological response and perceptive sensation before and after exercise in hot conditions and during a resting period in standard conditions. The test garment consisted of two tops (T1, T2) and two pants (P1, P2) each with different functional characteristics of fabric. Using various combinations of the test garments, assessment of the thermal sensation and comfort was performed before/after yoga and after resting. This study revealed that thermal sensation and wearing comfort significantly changed based on the functionality of the fabric of top garment before the exercise period. In addition, the results showed that based on clothing pressure, the feeling of comfort was different between before yoga and after resting. The appropriate choice of fabric material was important when constructing Bikram yoga clothing worn in hot conditions; however, level of clothing pressure was also found to be an essential design factor for comfort during rest after exercise.

20대 남성의 상의 원형 비교 평가

This research is a study to develop basic block patterns for adult males. The subjects were 20 men in their 20s, and we tested 6 basic bodice blocks that are used in academia and industry. First, a comparative analysis of the patterns of the bodice blocks was conducted and the test garments were made, and then their appearances were evaluated during wearing tests. Based on the test results, we intended to select a bodice block that is a good fit when it is put on and to use it as basic data in order to design a man's bodice block for the future. The research results are as follows: First, a comparison of the 6 bodice block drafts showed that they used differently calculated ease allowances at chest circumference and width, waist circumference, shoulder length, etc. for which the upper chest circumference is used as a reference. Second, when the appearances of the test garments were tested, the average scores were high in the order of B> H> P> K> M> L. Pattern B was superior in the areas of the neck circumference and shape, ease allowance at the back of the neck, circumference of the front of the neck, location of side width, ease allowance at sides, armhole width and depth. But in the other test items, there were cases where other patterns were superior.

Comparison of Garment Sizing Systems

Reflecting two ways of impacting a garment sizing system-by modifying the body sizing table, and by modifying the ease amounts added (at bust and hip only), 4 garment sizing systems presenting the combinations of a standard (ASTM D5585-95R01) or a modified body sizing table, each with constant or size-dependent ease amounts across sizes, were compared by testing their relative (as opposed to absolute) performance in fit tests with 81 study participants. Test garments (princess style jackets), sizes 2-16, were manufactured for each system (32 garments). Each participant was photographed in the best-fitting size garment from each system. Three fit experts ranked the 4 garments by fit for each study participant. Statistical analysis indicated better overall performance of systems based on size-dependent ease (but not within each size group) and of the modified table (significantly better for participants with small hip-bust drop and not significantly for participants with large drop).

Wearing Comfort of temperature‐adaptable textiles by dual‐phase coatings between phase‐change materials and silicon carbide particles

AbstractTwo different thermally enhancing coating materials, namely, phase‐change materials (PCMs) and silicon carbide (SiC), which are both capable of managing heat storage, were coated directly onto breathable waterproof nylon, either alone or together. The comfort properties of 20 wt % PCM‐coated fabric (20PCM) and 20 wt % PCM/SiC dual‐coated fabric (SC–20PCM) were compared with those of a control in a human clothing environment (HCE) system and a wear trial test. The changes in the heat and moisture transfer were examined by measurement of the microclimate temperature (Tmi) and microclimate relative humidity (RHmi) of the coated fabrics with an HCE system. In addition, Tmi, RHmi, and subjective sensations in the wear trials were evaluated. With dry heat transfer in the HCE, the thermal insulation decreased in following order: SC–20PCM > 20PCM > Control. However, SiC could not function in the presence of simulated perspiration. The moisture‐buffering capacity in the outermost layer decreased when the fabrics were coated with 20PCM and SC–20PCM. In the wear trials, the subjects were unable to distinguish any difference in the thermal comfort between the garments, even though the Tmi of the SC–20PCM garments was 2.5°C higher than that of the control garments. Moreover, they did not report any significant differences in the humidity or comfort sensations between the test garments. © 2012 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci, 2012

Differences in comfort perception in relation to local and whole body skin wettedness

Relevance of local skin wettedness (w (local)) to general thermal comfort while wearing clothing was investigated in eight males. In the experiments, skin wettedness of the whole body (w (body)) was controlled to be around the thermal comfort limit, while w (local) in different target locations of equal area (anterior and dorsal torso, arms, and thighs) was pushed beyond the comfort limit using special test garments. Subjects walked on a treadmill at 4.5 km h(-1) under 22 degrees C 50% RH. Arms and thighs were thermally in discomfort when their w (local) exceeded 0.32. On the other hand, discomfort in the anterior and dorsal torso was initiated when their w (local) arrived at 0.42 and 0.45. That is, the relation of the local comfort limit with w (local) differed depending upon the location. It was observed; however, that general discomfort was not induced when w (body) remained below 0.36 even if w (local) was higher than its local comfort limit.

A Study on the Seamless Knitting Method of Knitted Flare Skirts

The purpose of this study was to observe the changes of skirt length of knitted flare skirts when the seamless test garments were made which had been having full shape while being knitted and to change and amend the challenges in advance when those were knitted. For this study, I made 6 kinds of knitted test garments of wool 100% yarn with seamless knitting machine, which differed from each other by skirt angles () and gauges (7G, 12G, 15G), and then I measured deflection changes of their length for 2 weeks. Findings and conclusions drawn from this study were as follows: First, the side seam line of full shape hecame somewhat longer than center. Second, 7G and knitted flare skirt showed the biggest length deflection changes. Third, there was no difference at rear waist deflection changes between front pattern and rear. Fourth, it was difficult to control the tensions of right and left strings as to the knitting directions.

Pattern design for women with disproportionate figures: a case study for Swaziland

AbstractMajority of women with a bottom‐heavy figure profile are dissatisfied with the current clothing sizes sold in retail outlets. They rely on custom‐made clothing or alterations after purchasing an outfit or purchasing different sizes of the same style and colour for the top and bottom. Development of proper‐fitting slopers/basic patterns was the purpose of this study. A sloper is a basic or master pattern with comfort ease but without seam allowances that is used to make other styled patterns. A descriptive research design was utilized in this study. Evaluations of ‘fit’ were conducted on the standard and developed slopers, and also on test garments made from the respective slopers. There was a substantial difference on the waist and hip measurements of the standard and new slopers. Test garments made from developed slopers had a better fit on models than those made from standard slopers. Hence, the models were satisfied with the new slopers. Because the sample was small, this study may be replicated using a larger sample size in order to generalize the results. Apparel manufacturers need to consider the development of suitable slopers for different body types in manufacturing clothes that fit and not only for the proportionate figure.

A new way of understanding the customer for fibre manufacturers

PurposeThis paper describes the novel approach taken in a collaborative research project that aimed to investigate new ways of understanding the customer, for Derby‐based fibre manufacturer, Tencel Limited. The overall aim of the research described in this paper, was to help identify and establish a significant retail programme with a major UK store group for Tencel limited.Design/methodology/approachIn an iterative process, the target customer for the focus groups was identified, the main aims of the process were discussed, the test garments were identified and the empathic design tools were adapted. The team developed a programme of activities that would capture customer focused information on these critical issues.FindingsUsing the Grove techniques helped to make the project transparent and inclusive, and enabled the whole team to be involved in the decision‐making process. Using these techniques have provided Tencel with a non‐scientific way of understanding how their end customer perceives their fibre, providing unequivocal evidence of the customer true feelings recorded as “raw” video based evidence.Practical implicationsThe Tencel/IF project has also led to a number of additional advantages for the company, such as the development of new relationships within the supply chain, the development of new relationships within Tencel and the enhancement of multi‐disciplinary team working and concurrent engineering.Originality/valueThis paper has presented the novel approach that the combined Tencel/IF team took to develop a better understanding of the end customer and illustrates how techniques which were developed for one industry can be successfully adapted and applied to a quite different industry with excellent results.

Comfort Properties of Heat-Resistant Protective Workwear in Varying Conditions of Physical Activity and Environment. Part I: Thermophysical and Sensorial Properties of Fabrics

This series of studies investigates the impact of thermophysiologial and sensorial properties and end-use conditions of heat-resistant protective workwear on the wear comfort response. In Part I of this paper, material features and test methods are screened to obtain fabric characteristics that explain wear comfort effectively. Thermophysiological and sensorial properties including liquid moisture transfer properties are assessed for six heat resistant workwear materials with different fiber content, yarn property, weave type, and functional finishes. Based on the thermophysical values, small differences among the test garments are predicted. Measured sensorial properties, obtained from fabric mechanical, surface, and liquid moisture management properties, provide more distinctive comparisons. The remaining moisture ( A) is calculated from the evaporated ( E) and total driven ( T) water to predict the sensation of clamminess after sweating. Results from surface roughness, contact area, and wet cling analysis show that softer yarns, finer fibers and twill weaves produce measurably smoother fabrics with small contact. Also, effects of hydrophilic fiber blending and wicking finishes on the moisture management properties are examined. The former does not affect the liquid moisture management properties while the latter measurably enhances the absorption rate. These results are discussed in relation to the wear comfort response in varying conditions of physical activity and ambient environments in Part II of this paper.

Comparative assessment of wet and dry garment cleaning: Part 2. Performance, economic and regulatory assessment

An assessment of the environmental burdens and human health effects of perchloroethylene-based dry cleaning and aqueousbased wet cleaning was documented in the first paper of this two part series. This paper investigates key performance, economic and regulatory issues that affect the viability of wet cleaning as an alternative to dry cleaning. In two demonstration studies, over 60% of the test garments were successfully wet cleaned with a high level of finished quality. The most significant performance issue was garment shrinkage. Approximately 30% of garments wet cleaned in each of two studies experienced unacceptable shrinkage although no correlation between fabric or garment type and shrinkage was found. Preliminary cost data from recent demonstration projects indicate that wet cleaning can be cost competitive with dry cleaning. Higher labor and water utility costs for wet cleaning are offset by higher cleaning agent costs and equipment costs related to the purchase, control, and disposition of perchloroethylene for dry cleaning. In addition, dry cleaners in the United States must meet the regulations of the Clean Air Act, Resource Conservation and Recovery Act, Superfund Amendment and Reauthorization Act, Clean Water Act, and Occupational Safety and Health Act. In certain states, dry cleaners must also pay special taxes levied on the usage of perchloroethylene. It appears that the garment cleaning industry is not willing to sacrifice perchloroethylene's superior cleaning performance to avoid environmental and low level human health risks associated with well-maintained dry-to-dry equipment. Mixed mode dry and wet facilities may provide an interim strategy to reduce the usage of perchloroethylene and gradually expand the application of wet technology.

Testing the relative conspicuity of safety garments for New Zealand forestry workers

The relative conspicuities of six test garments (fluorescent orange, green/red, high-contrast, fluorescent lime-yellow, white, black) were assessed to guide the selection process of a standard upper body safety garment to be used within the New Zealand logging industry. Six male and four female participants, aged between 18 and 26 years, volunteered to perform 10 trials each on a demanding, central (tracking) task, while peripherally searching colour slides for test garments displayed on each of eight positions, against a pine forest background typically found in the New Zealand forestry. During each trial, transparency luminance was first gradually increased from darkness to daylight and then decreased to darkness again within 180 s. A head mounted ASL eye tracking system (4000SU) recorded the eye line of gaze for each participant, enabling a rank order of detection to be obtained for the tested garments in each trial. The fluorescent lime-yellow, fluorescent orange and white test garments were detected earlier than any other test garments across all trials, and the fluorescent lime-yellow test garment was detected first with a higher frequency than the white test garment. It was concluded that while white may be the most visible colour in near darkness conditions, as it provides highest contrast, fluorescent lime-yellow stands out better in twilight and daylight conditions against the pine forest background. The results of this study led to the promotion of fluorescent lime-yellow as the standard safety colour used in upper body garments within the New Zealand forest industry.

Clothing fasteners for long-term-care patients: Evaluation of standard closures and prototypes on test garments

For the elderly long-term-care patient it is of great psychological and practical importance to be able to dress and undress without assistance. However, the design and position of clothing fasteners often lead to a restriction of the functional capacity of the patient. The aim of this study was to facilitate a more independent daily life for long-term care patients. New fasteners were developed in accordance with a user-oriented product development process where a detailed knowledge of the final users and their capacity and limitations, problems, needs and wishes form the basis for further development. In an initial experimental study (I) the practical use of different standard clothing fasteners (button, hook and eye, nylon pressure tape and zipper) was evaluated. Different fasteners and positions are favourable to different patient groups. Wrist angle in different hand positions is crucial for the function of fasteners for persons with reduced hand function. User demands on clothing fasteners were specified and prototypes developed. In a subsequent study (II) an adapted oval button and a ‘finger strap’ alternative to hook-and-eye were designed and evaluated, together with a standard button. The oval button in combination with a vertical buttonhole improved the function for most patients, and the front position for the fasteners was superior to a diagonal or lateral position on the chest. The finger strap was of advantage to patients with hemiplegia and joint complaints but was difficult for many of the subjects to understand, being a technical innovation.

An Automated Methodology for Conducting Human Factors Evaluations of Protective Garments

A technique has been developed to quantify the restrictions to aircrew mobility produced while wearing various Chemical-Biological Warfare (CBW) protective garments. Twelve range-of-motion movements of three body areas were analyzed: (1) vertical and horizontal movements of head, arm and torso; (2) Horizontal forearm adduction from elbow; (3) Vertical movement of upper leg from hip and lower leg from knee. All subjects performed a three-minute video-displayed psychomotor tracking task while wearing six different test garments. They also completed questionnaires on subjective assessments of comfort, mobility, and general acceptability. Two of the ensembles allowed considerably more mobility than the other four. Performance scores on the tracking task and aircrew subjective ratings agreed with the mobility ratings.

CLOTHING NEEDS OF ELDERLY ARTHRITIC WOMEN

This study was designed to determine the effects of arthritis on elderly women in order to design garments to suit their special needs. Data were collected from 25 elderly arthritic women in northwest Arkansas. Personal interviews were conducted by the researcher in each respondent's home. Three garments, a dress, blouse, and pair of pants were designed to make dressing and undressing easier for arthritic women. The results of the study showed that elderly arthritic women often have trouble finding appropriate clothing that fits well and is easy to put on and take off because of the physical changes associated with the disease. The participants displayed a greater ability to dress themselves using test garments that provided additional ease, front openings, and Velcro fasteners.