Stratum Corneum Proteins Research Articles

Clinical vs. chronological skin age: exploring determinants and stratum corneum protein markers of differential skin ageing in 351 healthy women

Apparent skin age can be determined by several clinical measurements and may differ from chronological age, hence defining age acceleration/deceleration (Age A/D). Using data from 360 women with dermatological scoring of 21 clinical signs, we defined 3 well-separated co-occurring classes capturing the dryness, the elasticity and the oily nature of the skin. We related the risk of each clinical signs to the stratum corneum levels of 5 pre-selected proteins, we identified specific chronological age-adjusted signatures of each clinical sign. Using variable selection approaches, we identified 6 (of the 21) clinical signs which were jointly predictive of chronological age and used to define the clinical skin age, and subsequently age A/D. Applying univariate and multivariate approaches we found that stratum corneum levels of insulin degrading enzyme (IDE) was protective against (β = − 1.74, p = 3.3 × 10−6; selection proportion > 90%) accelerated skin ageing. In conclusion, our results support the fact that molecular markers found in the stratum corneum could predict skin ageing acceleration/deceleration.

The effect of degeneration of elastic fibres on loss of elasticity and wrinkle formation.

Skin elasticity, which is vital for a youthful appearance, depends on the elastic fibres in the dermis. However, these fibres deteriorate with ageing, resulting in wrinkles and sagging. Changes that occur in the elastic fibres in living human skin and the relationship between elastic fibres and the state of the skin surface remain unclear. Therefore, it is necessary to verify the relationship between elastic fibres and skin elasticity. In this study, we investigated the association of the elastic fibre structure with skin elasticity and stratum corneum protein content in living human skin. Thirty-five female volunteers aged 25-66 years were included in this study. Elastic fibres were observed using a multiphoton scanning laser biomicroscope. Skin elasticity was measured using a Cutometer, and stratum corneum proteins (Heat-shock protein 27 [HSP27] and galectin-7 [Gal-7]) in tape-stripped samples were analysed using an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay. Elastic fibres exhibited increased curvature and thickness with increased age, with fragmentation observed in women aged >60 years. Elastin scores, which reflect thinness and curvature, were negatively correlated with age, whereas they were positively correlated with R7 elasticity (recovery ability). In individuals aged 20-30 years, higher levels of inflammatory markers (HSP27 and Gal-7) correlated with lower elastin scores; however, this trend was not observed in older participants. Elastic fibre deterioration worsened after 40 years of age, and this effect correlated with reduced skin recovery and increased wrinkles. In younger individuals, inflammatory markers affected elastic fibres. These findings can guide anti-ageing strategies that focus on elastic fibre preservation and inflammation control.

Unraveling UVB effects: Catalase activity and molecular alterations in the stratum corneum

AimUltraviolet B (UVB) radiation can compromise the functionality of the skin barrier through various mechanisms. We hypothesize that UVB induce photochemical alterations in the components of the outermost layer of the skin, known as the stratum corneum (SC), and modulate its antioxidative defense mechanisms. Catalase is a well-known antioxidative enzyme found in the SC where it acts to scavenge reactive oxygen species. However, a detailed characterization of acute UVB exposure on the activity of native catalase in the SC is lacking. Moreover, the effects of UVB irradiation on the molecular dynamics and organization of the SC keratin and lipid components remain unclear. Thus, the aim of this work is to characterize consequences of UVB exposure on the structural and antioxidative properties of catalase, as well as on the molecular and global properties of the SC matrix surrounding the enzyme. ExperimentsThe effect of UVB irradiation on the catalase function is investigated by chronoamperometry with a skin covered oxygen electrode, which probes the activity of native catalase in the SC matrix. Circular dichroism is used to explore changes of the catalase secondary structure, and gel electrophoresis is used to detect fragmentation of the enzyme following the UVB exposure. UVB induced alterations of the SC molecular dynamics and structural features of the SC barrier, as well as its water sorption behavior, are investigated by a complementary set of techniques, including natural abundance 13C polarization transfer solid-state NMR, wide-angle X-ray diffraction, Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, and dynamic vapor sorption microbalance. FindingsThe findings show that UVB exposure impairs the antioxidative function of catalase by deactivating both native catalase in the SC matrix and lyophilized catalase. However, UVB radiation does not alter the secondary structure of the catalase nor induce any observable enzyme fragmentation, which otherwise could explain deactivation of its function. NMR measurements on SC samples show a subtle increase in the molecular mobility of the terminal segments of the SC lipids, accompanied by a decrease in the mobility of lipid chain trans-gauche conformers after high doses of UVB exposure. At the same time, the NMR data suggest increased rigidity of the polypeptide backbone of the keratin filaments, while the molecular mobility of amino acid residues in random coil domains of keratin remain unaffected by UVB irradiation. The FTIR data show a consistent decrease in absorbance associated with lipid bond vibrations, relative to the main protein bands. Collectively, the NMR and FTIR data suggest a small modification in the composition of fluid and solid phases of the SC lipid and protein components after UVB exposure, unrelated to the hydration capacity of the SC tissue. To conclude, UVB deactivation of catalase is anticipated to elevate oxidative stress of the SC, which, when coupled with subtle changes in the molecular characteristics of the SC, may compromise the overall skin health and elevate the likelihood of developing skin disorders.

Development of a novel human stratum corneum mimetic phospholipid ­vesicle-based permeation assay models for in vitro permeation studies

Objectives To develop and evaluate a novel human stratum corneum (SC) mimetic phospholipid vesicle-based permeation assay (PVPASC) model for in vitro permeation studies. Significance Due to the increasing restrictions on the use of human and animal skins, artificial skin models have attracted substantial interest in pharmaceuticals and cosmetic industries. In this study, a modified PVPASC model containing both SC lipids and proteins was developed. Methods The PVPASC model was optimized by altering the lipid composition and adding keratin in the formulation of large liposomes. The barrier properties were monitored by measuring the electrical resistance (ER) and permeability of Rhodamine B (RB). The modified PVPASC model was characterized in terms of the surface topography, solvent influence and storage stability. The permeation studies of the active components in Compound Nanxing Zhitong Plaster (CNZP) were performed to examine the capability of PVPASC in the application of skin penetration. Results The ER and P app values of RB obtained from the optimized PVPASC model indicated a similar barrier property to porcine ear skin. Scanning electron microscope analysis demonstrated a mimic ‘brick-and-mortar’ structure. The PVPASC model can be stored for three weeks at −20 °C, and withstand the presence of different receptor medium for 24 h. The permeation studies of the active components demonstrated a good correlation (r 2 = 0.9136) of P app values between the drugs’ permeation through the PVPASC model and porcine ear skin. Conclusion Keratin contained composite phospholipid vesicle-based permeation assay models have been proven to be potential skin tools in topical/transdermal permeation studies.

IR microspectroscopic investigation of the interaction of some losartan salts with human stratum corneum protein and its effect on losartan transdermal permeation.

The interaction of pharmacologically active drugs with SC biochemical components is underestimated in pharmaceutical research. The aim of this research was to illustrate that some drugs intended for transdermal delivery could interact with the protein component of SC. Such interactions could be in favor of or opposition to their percutaneous absorption. IR microspectroscopy was used to delineate possible interaction of SC keratin with three losartan salts LOS-K, LOS-DEA and LOS-AML salts in addition to AML-BES salt. The results of PCA, combined with comparisons of average second derivative spectra of SC samples treated with these salts and the control SC, showed that LOS-DEA did not interact with SC, thus providing base line permeation of losartan. AML-BES, LOS-AML and LOS-K salts modified the conformational structure of keratin. The disorganization effect on the α-helical structure and induced formation of parallel β-sheets and random coils were in the order of AML-BES˃LOS-AML˃LOS-K. The order of the impact of treatments which resulted in increased formation of β-turns was AML-BES˃LOS-AML. The formation of antiparallel β-sheets was manifested by LOS-AML. Thus, the overall effect of these salts on the SC protein was AML-BES˃LOS-AML˃LOS-K. The impact of LOS-K was associated with improved permeation whereas the impact of LOS-AML was associated with hindered permeation of both losartan and amlodipine. There is a possibility that losartan and amlodipine when present in combination inside SC, their binding to the protein is enhanced leading to being retained within SC.

Comparison of Color Development Kinetics of Tanning Reactions of Dihydroxyacetone with Free and Protected Basic Amino Acids.

Sunless tanning has become incredibly prevalent due to the increasing fashionable demand and the awareness of photodamage risks. The brown pigments are induced by dihydroxyacetone (DHA) and amino groups in the stratum corneum (SC) of skin via the Maillard reaction. While most studies concerning sunless tanning reactions have focused on free amino acids (AAs), little information is available on the impact of the side chain of AAs or proteins on this important reaction in cosmetic chemistry. To explore the reactivity and color development kinetics of different types of amino groups, three basic free AAs (Arg, His, and Lys) and three Nα-protected AAs (Boc-Arg-OH, Boc-His-OH, and Boc-Lys-OH) were used to react with DHA using a simplified model system at different reaction times, pH, and temperatures. Full factorial experiments were employed to design and analyze the effects of these three factors. The browning intensity and color characteristics were quantitatively evaluated. The factorial experiments showed that temperature had the most significant influence on the browning intensity and played a dominant role in the interactions with the reaction time and pH. It was found, for the first time, that Arg and His reacted with DHA more rapidly than Boc-Arg-OH and Boc-His-OH, while Boc-Lys-OH developed a stronger color than Lys under the same conditions, suggesting that ε-NH2 of a lysine residue in peptides or proteins of SC may play a crucial role in the color development of DHA tanning. This study not only clearly illustrates the capability of the side chain of AAs to produce colored compounds but also provides a deeper understanding of DHA tanning.

Proline, hydroxyproline, and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid derivatives as highly efficient but reversible transdermal permeation enhancers

Overcoming the skin barrier properties efficiently, temporarily, and safely for successful transdermal drug delivery remains a challenge. We synthesized three series of potential skin permeation enhancers derived from natural amino acid derivatives proline, 4-hydroxyproline, and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, which is a component of natural moisturizing factor. Permeation studies using in vitro human skin identified dodecyl prolinates with N-acetyl, propionyl, and butyryl chains (Pro2, Pro3, and Pro4, respectively) as potent enhancers for model drugs theophylline and diclofenac. The proline derivatives were generally more active than 4-hydroxyprolines and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid derivatives. Pro2–4 had acceptable in vitro toxicities on 3T3 fibroblast and HaCaT cell lines with IC50 values in tens of µM. Infrared spectroscopy using the human stratum corneum revealed that these enhancers preferentially interacted with the skin barrier lipids and decreased the overall chain order without causing lipid extraction, while their effects on the stratum corneum protein structures were negligible. The impacts of Pro3 and Pro4 on an in vitro transepidermal water loss and skin electrical impedance were fully reversible. Thus, proline derivatives Pro3 and Pro4 have an advantageous combination of high enhancing potency, low cellular toxicity, and reversible action, which is important for their potential in vivo use as the skin barrier would quickly recover after the drug/enhancer administration is terminated.

Glycerol and natural sugar-derived complex modulate differentially stratum corneum water-binding properties and structural parameters in an in vitro Raman-desorption model.

The epidermal protective functions are closely associated with skin hydration homeostasis. The understanding of different states of water binding is a rising concept in assessing topically applied formulations and their interaction within the stratum corneum (SC). In addition to global water content, primary bound water, partially bound water, and unbound water and barrier-related lipid lateral packing and protein secondary structure can be measured by Raman spectroscopy. This study aimed to establish an in vitro SC model to evaluate differences in the efficacy of a natural sugar-derived complex in combination with glycerol and a botanical extract in modulating SC water binding and structural proteins and barrier lipids. These compounds were selected due to their water-binding and soothing properties. The SC water profiles were assessed at the surface and in 8μm SC depth. After a 12-hour hyperhydration and subsequent product incubation the measurements were performed during a 6hours desiccation phase. The maximal water caption and the time until reaching a steady state are measured as well as water retention and resistance against water loss. Global water content, partially bound, and unbound water, as well as lipid and protein structures were assessed with confocal Raman microspectroscopy. Both the natural sugar-derived mixture and more pronounced, the same mixture with additional glycerol increased all three water-binding parameters at the surface and in 8μm SC depth at the beginning and during the desiccation phase. Further addition of botanical extract did not result in an additional increase of the water-binding. All three formulations showed an increase in the lipid lateral packing values prevented the protein alteration as measured by β-sheets signal compared to blank. The present model is suited for screening studies comparing the specific effects of different compounds on hydration states. The natural sugar-derived mixture Aquaxyl showed evidence for an improvement of all SC hydration states, lipid and protein structure which was further enhanced by the addition of glycerol 5%. This improvement was evidenced at the surface and within the SC for all hydration-related parameters, and the lipid as well the protein structures. The addition of botanical extract phytoessence blue daisy did not show further improvement.

Multifaceted amelioration of cutaneous photoageing by (0.3%) retinol.

Although retinol skin care products improve the appearance of photoaged skin, there is a need for an effective retinol concentration that provides skin benefits without irritation. To compare the efficacy of topical 0.1%, 0.3% and 1% retinol in remodelling the cutaneous architecture in an in vivo experimental patch test study, and to determine tolerance of the most effective formulations when used in a daily in-use escalation study. For the patch test study, retinol products were applied under occlusion, to the extensor forearm of photoaged volunteers (n=5; age range 66-84 years), and 3 mm skin biopsies obtained after 12 days. Effects of different retinol concentrations, and a vehicle control, on key epidermal and dermal biomarkers of cellular proliferation and dermal remodelling were compared to untreated baseline. Separately, participants (n=218) recorded their tolerance to 0.3% or 1% retinol over a six-week, approved regimen, which gradually increased the facial applications to once nightly. Retinol treatment induced a stepwise increase in epidermal thickness and induced the expression of stratum corneum proteins, filaggrin and KPRP. 0.3% retinol and 1% retinol were comparably effective at inducing keratinocyte proliferation in the epidermis, whilst reducing e-cadherin expression. Fibrillin-rich microfibril deposition was increased following treatment with 0.3% and 1% retinol (p < 0.01); other dermal components remained unaltered (e.g., fibronectin, collagen fibrils, elastin), and no evidence of local inflammation was detected. The in-use study found that 0.3% retinol was better tolerated than 1% retinol, with fewer and milder adverse events reported (χ2 (1)=23.97; p < 0.001). This study suggests that 1% and 0.3% retinol concentrations were similarly effective at remodelling photodamaged skin in an in vivo model of long-term use. Use of 0.3% retinol in the escalation study was associated with fewer adverse reactions when applied daily. Hence, 0.3% retinol may be better tolerated than 1% retinol, thereby allowing longer-term topical application.

Machine Learning Assisted Handheld Confocal Raman Micro-Spectroscopy for Identification of Clinically Relevant Atopic Eczema Biomarkers.

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a common chronic inflammatory skin dermatosis condition due to skin barrier dysfunction that causes itchy, red, swollen, and cracked skin. Currently, AD severity clinical scores are subjected to intra- and inter-observer differences. There is a need for an objective scoring method that is sensitive to skin barrier differences. The aim of this study was to evaluate the relevant skin chemical biomarkers in AD patients. We used confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy and advanced machine learning methods as means to classify eczema patients and healthy controls with sufficient sensitivity and specificity. Raman spectra at different skin depths were acquired from subjects’ lower volar forearm location using an in-house developed handheld confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy system. The Raman spectra corresponding to the skin surface from all the subjects were further analyzed through partial least squares discriminant analysis, a binary classification model allowing the classification between eczema and healthy subjects with a sensitivity and specificity of 0.94 and 0.85, respectively, using stratified K-fold (K = 10) cross-validation. The variable importance in the projection score from the partial least squares discriminant analysis classification model further elucidated the role of important stratum corneum proteins and lipids in distinguishing two subject groups.

Epidermal Immunity and Function: Origin in Neonatal Skin.

The fascinating story of epidermal immunity begins in utero where the epidermal barrier derives from the ectoderm and evolves through carefully orchestrated biological processes, including periderm formation, keratinocyte differentiation, proliferation, cornification, and maturation, to generate a functional epidermis. Vernix caseosa derives from epidermal cells that mix with sebaceous lipids and coat the fetus during late gestation, likely to provide conditions for cornification. At birth, infants dramatically transition from aqueous conditions to a dry gaseous environment. The epidermal barrier begins to change within hours, exhibiting decreased hydration and low stratum corneum (SC) cohesion. The SC varied by gestational age (GA), transformed over the next 2–3 months, and differed considerably versus stable adult skin, as indicated by analysis of specific protein biomarkers. Regardless of gestational age, the increased infant SC proteins at 2–3 months after birth were involved in late differentiation, cornification, and filaggrin processing compared to adult skin. Additionally, the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), the product of filaggrin processing, was higher for infants than adults. This suggests that neonatal skin provides innate immunity and protection from environmental effects and promotes rapid, continued barrier development after birth. Functional genomic analysis showed abundant differences across biological processes for infant skin compared to adult skin. Gene expression for extracellular matrix, development, and fatty acid metabolism was higher for infant skin, while adult skin had increased expression of genes for the maintenance of epidermal homeostasis, antigen processing/presentation of immune function, and others. These findings provide descriptive information about infant epidermal immunity and its ability to support the newborn’s survival and growth, despite an environment laden with microbes, high oxygen tension, and irritants.

Studying the effects of suberythemal UV doses on the human stratum corneum by in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy

The stratum corneum (SC) plays an important role in skin barrier function. It acts as a protective barrier against water loss, eliminates foreign substances and micro-organisms and acts against harmful effects of UVR. Our aim was to study the impact of suberythemal doses of UVA and UVB exposure on the molecular structure, organization and barrier function of the SC by following different Raman descriptors. Twenty female volunteers, aged 20-30 years, with healthy skin were enrolled. Doses of 95 mJ/cm²UVA and 15 mJ/cm²UVB were applied to volunteers’ forearms. In vivo Raman measurements were performed at irradiated and control regions. The impact of UVA and UVB irradiation was observed following several Raman descriptors, i.e. the ratio of vasymCH2/vsymCH2 (2885 cm-1/2850 cm-1) corresponding to the organizational order of the lipid bilayer. Water content and mobility descriptors were obtained by calculating vOH/vCH ratio. Finally, protein secondary structure was evaluated based on the 1670 cm-1/1650 cm-1ratio related to β sheets and α helices, respectively. UVA induced a loosening of the lateral packing of lipids immediately after irradiation. In contrast, delayed impact caused a tightening of the lipid barrier, an increase in water content -mainly in the unbound water fraction and a higher relative amount of β sheets in SC proteins. Overall, these observations may explain the thickening of the SC observed in previous studies. A UVB dose of 15 mJ/cm²was apparently below the threshold necessary to induce significant changes despite the trends observed in this study.

Mechanism and Application of Chitosan and Its Derivatives in Promoting Permeation in Transdermal Drug Delivery Systems: A Review.

The mechanisms and applications of chitosan and its derivatives in transdermal drug delivery to promote drug permeation were reviewed in this paper. Specifically, we summarized the permeation-promoting mechanisms of chitosan and several of its derivatives, including changing the structure of stratum corneum proteins, acting on the tight junction of granular layers, affecting intercellular lipids, and increasing the water content of stratum corneum. These mechanisms are the reason why chitosan and its derivatives can increase the transdermal permeation of drugs. In addition, various transdermal preparations containing chitosan and its derivatives were summarized, and their respective advantages were expounded, including nanoparticles, emulsions, transdermal microneedles, nanocapsules, transdermal patches, transdermal membranes, hydrogels, liposomes, and nano-stents. The purpose of this review is to provide a theoretical basis for the further and wider application of chitosan in transdermal drug delivery systems. In the future, research results of chitosan and its derivatives in transdermal drug delivery need more support from in vivo experiments, as well as good correlation between in vitro and in vivo experiments. In conclusion, the excellent permeability-promoting property, good biocompatibility, and biodegradability of chitosan and its derivatives make them ideal materials for local transdermal drug delivery.

Specific protection of sensitive skin against environmental stress by maintenance and improvement of barrier function

Sensitive skin is a common condition that can severely impact quality of life. Several mechanisms are thought to be involved, including those affecting the skin barrier function, hydration and skin innervation. To investigate the benefit of cream and balm formulations dedicated to sensitive skin and containing Aquaphilus dolomiae extract-G3 (ADE-G3) on skin barrier functions (lipid composition, pH, TEWL), as well as protective responses to dry and pollution stresses. In vitro sensitized (using histamine) reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) were subjected to dehydration and pollution stress in the absence and presence of the formulations. Endpoint measurements included transepithelial electric resistance (TEER), stratum corneum protein expression and lipid contents. Clinical measurements included transepithelial water loss (TEWL), skin pH and the lipid index. When applied in cream and balm formulations, ADE-G3, increased the TEER in sensitized RHEs. In non-sensitized dehydrated RHEs, both formulations increased recovery of skin barrier integrity after dehydration, evident as a return of the ratios of filaggrin/profilaggrin and caspase-14/procaspase-14 to values measured in control non-stressed RHEs, as well as reducing the 'natural moisturizing factor' to control levels. In clinical studies performed on dry human skin, the formulations helped to maintain and improve the skin barrier function. This was evident as an intense and sustained moisturization (total lipids and lipid esters were increased), an increase in pH and a decrease in the TEWL by both formulations. When exposed to pollution stress by treating the models with benzo[a]pyrene and airborne particulate matter (PM10), application of both formulations prior to exposure attenuated the induction of CYP1A1, CYP1B1 and UGT1A7 expression, indicating a protective effect. ADE-G3 cream and balm formulations increased the hydration of the skin but also protected and improved the skin barrier integrity of sensitive skin exposed to dry and cold and airborne pollutant-induced stress environments.

The effects of glycols on molecular mobility, structure, and permeability in stratum corneum

The skin provides an attractive alternative to the conventional drug administration routes. Still, it comes with challenges as the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), provides an efficient barrier against permeation of most compounds. One way to overcome the skin barrier is to apply chemical permeation enhancers, which can modify the SC structure. In this paper, we investigated the molecular effect of three different types of glycols in SC: dipropylene glycol (diPG), propylene glycol (PG), and butylene glycol (BG). The aim is to understand how these molecules influence the molecular mobility and structure of the SC components, and to relate the molecular effects to the efficiency of these molecules as permeation enhancers. We used complementary experimental techniques, including natural abundance 13C NMR spectroscopy and wide-angle X-ray diffraction to characterize the molecular consequences of these compounds at different doses in SC at 97% RH humidity and 32 °C. In addition, we study the permeation enhancing effects of the same glycols in comparable conditions using Raman spectroscopy. Based on the results from NMR, we conclude that all three glycols cause increased mobility in SC lipids, and that the addition of glycols has an effect on the keratin filaments in similar manner as Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). The highest mobility of both lipids and amino acids can be reached with BG, which is followed by PG. It is also shown that one reaches an apparent saturation level for all three chemicals in SC, after which increased addition of the compound does not lead to further increase in the mobility of SC lipids or protein components. The examination with Raman mapping show that BG and PG give a significant permeation enhancement as compared to SC without any added glycol at corresponding conditions. Finally, we observe a non-monotonic response in permeation enhancement with respect to the concentration of glycols, where the highest concentration does not give the highest permeation. This is explained by the dehydration effects at highest glycol concentrations. In summary, we find a good correlation between the molecular effects of glycols on the SC lipid and protein mobility, and macroscopic permeation enhances of the same molecules.

Beyond Additivity: A mixture of glucose and NaCl can influence skin hydration more than the individual compounds

The barrier function of the skin mainly relies on its outermost layer, the stratum corneum (SC), which is a lipid-protein composite biomaterial. In addition, SC contains a mixture of small polar compounds, the natural moisturizing factor (NMF). Most of the NMF components are solid at ambient relative humidities (RHs). We herein raise the question of what the effects of adding a mixture of chemicals to the SC are as compared to adding the single components. We use mixtures of glucose and NaCl, both present in NMF and in skin formulations, and the effects on SC were studied using solid-state NMR, wide angle X-ray diffraction, and sorption microbalance. The deliquescence RHs of the glucose-NaCl mixtures are lower than the individual chemicals. The same trend is also seen when these chemicals are added to SC, as the dissolution occurs at lower RH for the mixture than for the single chemicals. Notably, the mixtures can also increase the mobility of SC lipids and proteins more than the individual compounds. These data illustrate a synergistic effect by adding a mixture rather than a single polar compound to the SC, which may also have implications for the complex mixture NMF inside SC in dry conditions.

103 Autophagy activation is required for the maintenance of skin tight junction barrier

There is increasing evidence that autophagy contributes to the epidermal differentiation; however, the role of autophagy in epidermal tight junction (TJ) barrier remains unclear. To evaluate the role of autophagy in the maintenance of skin TJ barrier, we knocked out autophagy in human primary keratinocytes by infecting cell with autophagy-related gene 3 (Atg3) C264S mutant adenovirus. In these autophagy-deficient keratinocytes, we found that the mRNA expression and/or protein expression of TJ-related proteins such as claudin-1 and ZO-1, and the stratum corneum proteins such as filaggrin and loricrin were significantly decreased.

Extraction of natural moisturizing factor from the stratum corneum and its implication on skin molecular mobility

The natural moisturizing factor (NMF) is a mixture of small water-soluble compounds present in the upper layer of the skin, stratum corneum (SC). Soaking of SC in water leads to extraction of the NMF molecules, which may influence the SC molecular properties and lead to brittle and dry skin. In this study, we investigate how the molecular dynamics in SC lipid and protein components are affected by the removal of the NMF compounds. We then explore whether the changes in SC components caused by NMF removal can be reversed by a subsequent addition of one single NMF component: urea, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) or potassium lactate. Samples of intact SC were investigated using NMR, X-ray diffraction, infrared spectroscopy and sorption microbalance. It is shown that the removal of NMF leads to reduced molecular mobility in keratin filaments and SC lipids compared to untreated SC. When the complex NMF mixture is replaced by one single NMF component, the molecular mobility in both keratin filaments and lipids is regained. From this we propose a general relation between the molecular mobility in SC and the amount of polar solutes which does not appear specific to the precise chemical identify of the NMF compounds.

Skin hydration as a tool to control the distribution and molecular effects of intermediate polarity compounds in intact stratum corneum

The barrier function of the skin is mainly assured by its outermost layer, stratum corneum (SC), which consists of dead keratin-filled cells embedded in a lipid matrix. The skin is daily exposed to an environment with changing conditions in terms of hydration and different chemicals. Here we investigate how a molecule that has reasonable solubility in both hydrophobic and hydrophilic environments can be directed to certain regions in SC by changing the skin hydration. We use 1,2,3-trimethoxy propane (TMP) as a model substance and solid-state NMR on natural abundance 13C to obtain atomically resolved information on the molecular dynamics of TMP as well as SC lipid and protein components at varying hydration conditions. Upon dehydration, TMP redistributes from the hydrophilic corneocytes to the hydrophobic SC lipid regions. In this way, TMP can act to prevent the fluid–solid lipid transition in drying conditions and be present in the corneocytes in more humid conditions. Hydration can thereby be used as a switch to control the location and action of TMP or similar compounds in complex materials like SC. The general principles described here can also have impact on other applications including lipid-based formulations in food, drug delivery and cosmetics.

The effect of pH and salt on the molecular structure and dynamics of the skin

The ‘acid mantle’ of the human skin is considered crucial for several protective functions of the skin. It has been associated with numerous biological processes including enzymatic activities and barrier function for diffusional transport. The outer thin layer of the skin– the stratum corneum (SC) - is primarily responsible for the skin barrier function. In this paper, we investigate how the structure and dynamics of SC lipid and protein components are influenced by variations in pH, ionic strength and salt composition. We characterize molecular mobility and organization in pieces of SC exposed to buffer solutions with pH ranging from acidic to neutral to basic conditions. Using solid state NMR we obtain details on molecular dynamics in intact SC at close to atomistic resolution, providing detailed information on the molecular responses. The highest mobility in both lipid and protein components is observed at the lowest pH 4.0. We also study the effects of adding salt, either with monovalent Na+ or divalent Mg2+ ions at the different pH conditions. Our results provide new understanding how SC molecular properties respond to solution conditions that can be utilized in the development of topical drug delivery and cosmetic formulations.