In cheese technology, the mass transfer of small solutes, such as salt, moisture and metabolites during brining and ripening, is very important for the final quality of the cheese. This paper has the following objectives: (i) to review the data concerning the diffusion coefficients of solutes in different cheese types; (ii) to review the experimental methods available to model the mass transfer properties of small solutes in complex matrices such as cheese; and (iii) to consider some potential alternative approaches. Numerous studies have reported the transfer of salt in cheese during brining and ripening. Regardless of the type of cheese and its composition, the effective diffusion coefficients of salt have been reported to be between 1 and 5.3 × 10−10 m2·s−1 at 10–15 °C. However, few papers have dealt with the mass transfer properties of other small solutes in cheese. Most of the reported effective diffusion coefficient values have been obtained by macroscopic and destructive concentration profile methods. More recently, some other promising techniques, such as nuclear magnetic resonance, magnetic resonance imaging or fluorescence recovery after photobleaching, are currently being developed to measure the mass transfer properties of solutes in heterogeneous media at microscopic scales. However, these methods are still difficult to apply to complex matrices such as cheese. Further research needs to focus on: (i) the development of nondestructive techniques to determine the mass transfer properties of small solutes at a microscopic level in complex matrices such as cheese; and (ii) the determination of the mass transfer properties of metabolites that are involved in enzymatic reactions during cheese ripening.