Silver Thread Research Articles

Malay Cultural Heritage Preservation Through Seni Tekat Motif On Kerongsang Tok Design

Seni Tekat is a form of embroidery on cloth, usually velvet, using gold threads, and has been an important form of cultural expression throughout history. The art of seni tekat embroidery is a treasure inherited from our famous ancestors in Kuala Kangsar, Perak. In Malaysia, Seni Tekat is a work-related skill heritage hand decorated with gold or silver thread embroidery sewn on a velvet base cloth according to a certain motive or pattern. The design senses of the motifs found in the gold thread art are inspired by the design composition of the pattern that borrows the design that is sourced from nature available in Malaysia. This form of embroidery has been down through generations, and it continues to be an important aspect of Malaysian culture. Preserving cultural heritage through Seni Tekat is a way of ensuring that the tradition does not disappear with time. Seni Tekat is an important part of Malaysian culture, and it must be preserved for future generations. Seni tekat can be used in several ways to ensure that the tradition continues to thrive. By creating Kerongsang Tok design using seni tekat motifs, and incorporating it into modern designs, the art of knotting can remain an integral part of Malaysian culture for years to come. The most important objectives of this research are to create an innovative source of inspiration for the Kerongsang Tok design and to preserve the Malay heritage of culture via the new design of Kerongsang Tok inspiration. The ideation process, which has a direct relationship to the fundamentals of Kerongsang Tok design, forms the basis of this design research. The process of creation starts with the design of the Kerongsang Tok, which is developed incorporating Malay patterns to complement its new source of inspiration. A survey has been conducted to determine which design is the best, with input from academics, students, goldsmiths, and jewellery designers. Based on the poll outcomes, an innovative inspiration for the Kerongsang Tok design was created. This study will help to preserve Malaysia's legacy, provide an educational resource for future generations, and promote an awareness of our unique cultural heritage.

The ‘silver thread’: Hazel Hunkins-Hallinan (1890–1982), the Six Point Group, and new understandings of intergenerational female activism in England, 1960s to 1980

ABSTRACT Focussing on the life-long activism of former suffragette and feminist Hazel Hunkins-Hallinan this article presents an innovative re-appraisal of histories of the women’s movement in England during the 1960s and 1970s. Adopting a micro-history approach the article uses Hunkins-Hallinan’s experience of feminist activism to make two connected arguments. The first is to challenge the suggestion that post-suffrage feminist societies such as the Six Point Group lost their ability to participate in and influence campaigns for gender equality into the second half of the twentieth century. The second is to ensure that the contributions made by older women to the women’s movement during the 1960s and 1970s are no longer obscured by the emergence of the Women’s Liberation Movement. Drawing on both arguments the article reveals the previously hidden co-operation and intersection between older and younger generations of women campaigning for women’s rights during these two pivotal decades.

MAKNA SIMBOLIK MOTIF NAGA BESAUNG PADA KAIN SONGKET DI FIKRI SONGKET KOTA PALEMBANG

In general, songket is a cloth woven using gold or silver thread and is produced from certain areas such as Palembang, Jambi. From Bali, Minangkabau to Samarinda, the word songket comes from the word sungkit which means to lift the thread, while in a special sense, sungkit is a needle made of bone used for embroidery. This research was conducted to examine the motifs of songket cloth in the city of Palembang. This type of songket is full of elements of symbols of majesty or greatness for the bride and groom and the general public who wears it. The dragon besaung motif is a symbol of a mythological animal that is believed by the Chinese people to have spiritual values ​​that symbolize strength, luck, goodness and prosperity. This study tries to explain the meaning contained in the dragon besaung motif, analyzed using qualitative methods. Data collection techniques are by observation, interviews, documentation. Using Pierce’s semiotics study approach technique, seen from the triangle meaning. The results of the study concluded that the dragon besaung motif is considered by the people of Palembang to symbolize love and peace.

Munculnya Penenun Laki-Laki Di Industri Tenun Songket Pandai Sikek, Tanah Datar (1998-2022)

ABSTRACT
 Songket is a beautiful and luxurious fabric with a weave made of sparkling-looking gold or silver thread. Technically, songkets are woven on a loom called a panta with a braid of wire and gold-patterned threads on its transverse winding. In other words, Songket is a form of expression of beauty that combines creativity and intelligence. Songane weaving skills are not something that can be obtained, but rather must be learned, because meticulousness and patience are required in the process of weaving. Minangkabau songket cloth has actually existed for more than a hundred years. During this time, songket weaving

Development of Embroidery-Type Sensor Capable of Detecting Respiration Using the Capacitive Method.

This study presents a respiration sensor that is dependent on a parallel capacitor, including connection lines and electrodes embroidered on textiles. First, characterizations of the respiration capacitor using a silver thread, including a combination of porous Eco-flex simulating air in the lungs due to respiration, were evaluated using an LCR meter. Second, the effects of air gaps on the detection of respiration motions according to the change in electrode distance under pressure were presented. The data values were measured from 1 to 300 kHz using an LCR meter and dielectric test fixture. Third, actual breathing was examined in four patterns: normal breathing, deep breathing, hyperventilation, and apnea. The test was performed after fabricating a clothing-type breathing sensor. Finally, the change in capacitance for actual respiration was determined by wearing a clothing-type respiration sensor based on the data collected. The effectiveness of the respiration sensor was demonstrated by measuring it to discern all waveforms, cycles, and ranges associated with the breathing pattern.

Decorative Decorations in Gold Thread Shown on Aisles and Women's Bride Clothes in Naras, Pariaman City

An overview of the characteristics of motif design, including motif design, decorative patterns, placement of motifs, color combinations, and gold thread embroidery techniques on wedding dresses and aisles in Naras Kota Pariaman, is presented in this study. The method used is descriptive qualitative with the main data needed in the form of primary data and secondary data. Data were collected through observation, interview, and documentation techniques. Data analysis was carried out through data reduction, data presentation, and drawing conclusions. To get the validity of the data obtained through triangulation. The results of this study are 1) The design characteristics of the motifs used in gold thread embroidery products sourced from nature (naturalists) are clam flowers which are stilasid into ornamental shapes, other motifs used are roses, jasmine flowers, orchids, kaladi leaves, sunflowers, kaluak paku, animal motifs such as lions and peacocks. The decorative patterns used include standing edge decorative patterns, climbing edge decorative patterns, roadside decorative patterns, hanging edge decorative patterns, rectangular fillings, triangular field fillings, and sowing patterns. The placement of motifs on the wedding dress includes the neck, sleeves, bottom of the shirt, the back of the shirt, tokah, while on the aisle the placement of gold thread embroidery motifs on banta gadang, lansia, tabia, lidah-lidah, ondas-ondas, angkin, and Dalamak. 2) The color combination in this embroidery product uses a primary base color, and a combination of neutral colors, monochromatic color combinations, and complementary color combinations. 3) The gold thread embroidery technique used is first to prepare the tools and materials, make the motif on paper/directly on the cloth, trace the motif, embroider the motif using gold or silver thread and then wrap it with ordinary thread using the sewing technique , then done. The materials used for wedding dresses are satin, velvet, and bridal, while for the aisle the materials are satin and velvet used

Classification of Batu Bara Songket Using Gray-Level Co-Occurrence Matrix and Support Vector Machine

Songket is a traditional woven cloth from the Malay and Minangkabau tribes. Songket can also be classified from the brocade woven family and woven with gold or silver thread. Songket cloth's beauty is the Indonesian people's wealth and preservation. Batu Bara Regency is one of Indonesia's regions with several Songket motifs characteristics. Public knowledge of Batu Bara Songket motifs is still minimal, and the differences between one motif and another are still unknown. This research provides information about the variety of Songket fabrics by classifying six types of Batu Bara Songket motifs, namely the Bunga Tanjung motif, Pucuk Betikam motif, Pucuk Cempaka motif, Pucuk pandan motif, Tampuk Manggis motif and Tolab Berantai motif based on the extraction of the Gray Level texture feature. The Co-Occurrence Matrix includes four parameters: Contrast, Correlation, Energy, and Homogeneity, as well as a classification method with a Support Vector Machine. The feature extraction values ​​ process as input for classification using a Support Vector Machine. The highest accuracy achieved in this study was 57%, using 60 training data and 30 test data.

Optimal prototype design of dry textile electrode-based compression pants for surface electromyography measurements

PurposeTo provide guidelines for the development of textile electrode compression pants that collect reliable signals during surface electromyography (sEMG) measurements and maintain a comfortable level of pressure.Design/methodology/approachTo increase skin adhesion, 12 textile electrode bands for biceps brachii were prepared according to a combination of variables, namely, the type of the textile electrode, the pressure level and the presence or absence of an electrolyte. The dry textile electrode adopted herein was developed in terms of the size and material of the contact area, and a new electrode design was proposed. After examining the optimal design conditions by measuring the sEMGs during isometric exercise of the biceps brachii, prototype pants were designed based on the design variables that gave the most promising evaluation results. The completed prototype pants were verified through isometric thigh muscle exercises.FindingsIt was confirmed that the textile electrode was capable of EMG measurement with an excellent signal quality. Upon considering the comfort of wearing the device and the cost efficiency of dry electrodes, prototype pants that adopted a fit relative to a light clothing pressure (i.e. thigh: 1.3–1.9 kPa), and combined both silicon and silver thread embroidery with a wide contact area for stability, were designed and their sEMG measurements were confirmed.Originality/valueIn this study, wearable clothing based on textile electrodes was developed to ensure a comfortable fit from the wearer's perspective, and a design method was proposed for the development of low-cost SmartWear electrodes and circuits.

PENDAMPINGAN DAN PELATIHAN PEMANFAATAN MEDIA E-COMMERCE PADA PENGRAJIN TAPIS LAMPUNG DI DESA RAJABASA LAMA KECAMATAN LABUHAN RATU KABUPATEN LAMPUNG TIMUR

ABSTRAK Tapis cloth is a traditional clothing of the Lampung tribe in the form of a sarong made of woven cotton yarn with motifs such as natural, flora and fauna motifs. Tapis cloth is made of woven cotton yarn with a willing motif or decoration, silver thread or gold thread with an embroidery system. The materials used are sanwos or woven fabrics, cotton threads and gold or silver threads, and pempek. Community Service Activities carried out by the STAI Darussalam PKM Team in Lampung were carried out in Rajabasa Lama Village, Labuhan Ratu District, East Lampung Regency, which is one of the typical Lampung filter fabric craftsman villages that still uses traditional manufacturing techniques. Which so far, is still marketed traditionally at a fairly low price. This causes less than optimal marketing. The research approach used in this community service is participation-based research known as Participatory action research (PAR). Community Service Activities, starting from FGDs, Training and Assistance in the Utilization of E-Commerce, which are carried out are not only limited to carrying out one of the Tridharma of Higher Education, but together with community groups can provide the widest possible benefits to the community, namely the results of filter crafts from the village. Rajabasa Lama can be better known by the wider community so that it can increase sales results and can contribute to improving the community's economy.

A Scientific Analysis of Decorative Metal Foil Used in Pouch for the Sutra Embroidered with a Sun and Moon Design Designated as National Folklore Cultural Heritage

Through scientific analysis, this study identified the material characteristics of metal foil decorating the border line and knotting of the National Folklore Cultural Heritage ‘Pouch for the Sutra Embroidered with a Sun and Moon Design’. Through Scanning Electron Microscope-Energy Dispersive Spectroscopy results, it was estimated that silver (Ag) and sulfur (S) were present in the metal foil, and silver leaf was also attached to the medium. S may discolor Ag from yellow to black depending on its concsentration and contact time. Yellow color could not be identified in metal foil at present. But there existed an example of the preparation of a gold-colored flat silver thread; therefore, further research is needed to estimate the original color. The lamella was reddish brown on the back. Aluminum, silicon, and iron were also detected and were the main components found in red soil. This is believed to be the red adhesive in traditional flat gold thread and is considered to be an adhesive-related component of the metal foil. From the gas chromatography mass spectrometry results, the adhesive component was confirmed to be animal glue.

Foreward

It is a pleasure to write a foreword for this special issue, which comprises an outstanding selection of submissions arising from the proceedings of the UCL Postgraduate and Early Careers Conference 2017. Having once been involved in the organization of the conference and editing of the UCL Journal of Law and Jurisprudence myself, and indeed having had the honour of participating as a discussant in this conference, I could not be happier to see the fruitful coming together of these activities. Yet the rigour displayed in this issue leaves no room for partiality. The silver thread that connects the five articles that make up this publication is the overarching theme of the 2017 conference: ‘The art of balancing and the role of law in the reconciling of competing interests.’ The contributions provide a new lens through which to approach this perennial debate in law and philosophy. Each in its own way,they offer thoughtful accounts of balancing between civic life, the public interest, and individual rights. Without losing sight of the broader theme, though, the submissions succeed in taking the reader through a variety of legal problems, in line with the generalist outlook that has characterized the journal since its creation.

Like a river or a silver thread running through the vehement landscapes of reality – reflections on psychoanalysis and literary theory

ABSTRACT The article discusses contributions from literary research and how they imply psychoanalysis in their field of research. Close readings of Freud and Lacan serve as an opening to an overarching question: what can literary research teach us about psychoanalysis? A question that generates a paraphrase: how is psychoanalysis already involved in the practice of reading? The historical ‘knowledge dependency’ of psychoanalysis on the myth, the rhetorical potential and the resonance made possible by the figures of the literary dimension, and methods of contextualization in psychoanalytic literary criticism are emphasized. Psychoanalytic knowledge construction – from a literary speech acts perspective – can be understood as attempts to represent and deal with practice or reality and, more specifically, traumatic experiences. The article reflects on how the extent of clarity to which both theory and poetry can find words for the unconscious or ‘the impossible’ might manifest itself in a movement of return and departure in language. The article discusses how listening and translation can be enriching concepts in the relationship between psychoanalysis and literature.

Embedding the silver thread in all-age psychological services: training and supervising younger therapists to deliver CBT for anxiety or depression to older people with multi-morbidity

Abstract Providers of cognitive behavioural therapy (CBT) in adult mental health services in the UK are expected to deliver therapy suitable for adults of all ages. However, older people commonly present with co-morbidities that challenge delivery of single-diagnosis CBT protocols. Added to this, the difference in age between therapy-provider and service-user can compromise collaboration. In this paper, I consider two key areas of relevance for training and supervising CBT therapists for work with older people, namely multi-morbidities and intergenerational relations. The evolving evidence base for CBT with older people is summarised and a commentary provided on previous ‘old age’ case studies from the Cognitive Behaviour Therapist (tCBT). Strategies for collaborative relationships are discussed, as are strategies for ‘embedding the silver thread’. I conclude with recommendations for future directions for CBT training and supervision. Key learning aims (1) To be aware that any differences in working with older people are not due to age per se, but factors such as cohort differences and multi-morbidity. (2) To reflect on case examples of CBT with older people. (3) To learn strategies for developing collaborative relationships across an intergenerational divide.

A Scientific Analysis of Gold Threads Used in Donggungbi-Wonsam(Ceremonial Robe Worn by a Crown Princess, National Folklore Cultural Heritage No.48)

This study identified material properties through scientific analysis on Jikgeumdan(satin with gold threads) from Donggungbi-Wonsam and the gold threads used in the embroidery. The Donggungbi-Wonsam’s base of gold threads were estimated to have used mulberry fiber’s Korean paper(Hanji) because non-wood-based fibers were observed. The X-ray spectrometer showed that the Tongsuseulan of Donggungbi-Wonsam was a flat gold thread of pure gold and Jikgeumdan of flat silver thread of its Saekdong and Hansam. High sulfur levels were detected in the flat silver thread, which appeared to have formed silver sulfide by either manufacturing process using sulfur or conservation environment. he dragon insignia’s embroidery is also described as two types twisted gold threads; pure gold and alloying-gold and silver. while dragon insignia’s border line is decorated with a twisted gold thread of pure gold. In particular, it was investigated that adhesives such as an animal glue, a protein-based compound by gas chromatography mass spectrometry. Additionally, XRF and Raman spectroscopy analysis on the mixture substances between the metal surface and the base paper of gold threads identified talc and quartz in the gold threads and Seokganju(hematite) in the flat silver threads.

IDENTIFIKASI KAIN TAPIS LAMPUNG MENGGUNAKAN EKSTRAKSI FITUR EDGE DETECTION (CANNY) DAN KLASIFIKASI PROBABILITY NEURAL NETWORK (PNN)

Tapis fabric is a Lampung tribe women's clothing in the form of a sarong made of woven cotton threads with a sugi motif or decoration, silver thread or gold thread with an embroidery system. Lampung tapis is the result of woven cotton threads with motifs, silver threads or gold threads and becomes the typical clothing of the Lampung tribe. Tapis fabric can be distinguished by shape and pattern, each type has its own special characteristics. This study aims to identify the tapis fabric using Edge Detection feature extraction and Probability Neural Network (PNN) classification. Experiments were carried out using 525 images data, 450 images became training data, while the other 75 images became test data consisting of 3 types of filters Bintang Perak, Gunung Beradu, and Sasab. The results of the experiment are quite good. The smoothing value applied to the PNN has an effect on the accuracy.

Wearable and Elastic Surface Coil for 1H Magnetic Resonance Imaging

Wearable and elastic surface coil using a conductive and stretchable textile for magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) of breast was designed. A high-conductive silver thread was woven with elastofiber to create two elastic textile coils. Three phantoms with varying sizes and a resolution plate were also designed to validate the coil performance. Signal-to-noise ratios (SNRs) were calculated for the phantoms with different planar cuts. Resolution plate hole diameter of 6 mm was clearly discernible on axial MR images. Despite its canonical circular geometry, the wearable and elastic textile coil with one channel only was successful. The elastic coil can improve clinical applications of MRI with larger filling factor and may provide better patient comfort.

Scandal and Imprisonment: Gold Spinners of 17th Century England

When looking at seventeenth-century silk- and gold-embroidered jackets or heavily wrought cabinets, most people focus on the embroiderer’s skill. Instead, my interest rests with the makers of the thread used to create such luxuries—silk thread, gold thread, and silver thread. Perhaps surprisingly, many early thread makers were women, owners, and managers of home-based industries in which spinning gold and silver was their business and livelihood.

Corrosion and Microstructural Studies on Gilded Silver Threads from Sumptuous Textiles from the Era of Augustus the Strong

Abstract Gilded silver thread was used in the baroque era in the manufacture of sumptuous fabrics for princely garments as well as in the interior decoration of the Royal State Apartments. In this work, gilded silver threads from sumptuous fabrics from the era of Augustus the Strong (1670 – 1733) were studied with the aim of examining the microstructure and the chemical composition of the silver threads and the gilding. In addition, the metal threads were examined with regard to occurring corrosion phenomena as well as corrosion mechanisms.

Implementasi Metode Ekstraksi Fitur Gabor Filter dan Probablity Neural Network (PNN) untuk Identifikasi Kain Tapis Lampung

Tapis Fabric is a traditional clothing of the people of Lampung in the form of a shawl cloth or a sarong made of woven cotton thread with various motifs and ornaments, silver thread or gold thread by embroidered or punched. The pattern of filter cloth is quite complex, unlike the pattern of fabric in general, with its own uniqueness that has become the culture of Lampung society until now. This filter cloth will be investigated by identifying the three types of filter cloth, namely Sasab, Bintang Perak and Gunung Beradu and see the results of its identification. The method used to identify is by combining the Gabor Filter feature extraction method which has frequency and orientation parameters and Probability Neural Network classification methods. Previously, the combination of these two methods was used to identify objects with simple patterns. The results are quite good, such as detecting faces, leaf patterns, and other simple patterns. This research is expected to get maximum identification results on the filter cloth even though it has a pattern that is not simple and will be used as a research report to determine the suitability of the method used for the filter object.

Burmese Days

POETRY Burmese Days by Shahilla Shariff I The alleys are blind, the streets are worn. Everyone has left, but tea is offered. Bone china cup, we’re together in a room with high ceilings, huge windows, polished floors. Overhead, a whirring fan. Outside, a city bares its soul through broken shutters and peeling walls. Lacquered silence. A river’s black onyx silts pure melancholy. Life here has the air of a dying art. 26 WLT SUMMER 2020 PHOTOS: SHAHILLA SHARIFF II Nothing is whole: a boy slices into his bone sawing a jade green stone; a girl spins silver thread stolen from the moon. There, one story ends and another begins, two characters in search of a future. Author’s note: After five years of exile in colonial captivity, the last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar, died in Rangoon on November 7, 1862. Frail and humiliated, nearing ninety years of age, he disappeared without a trace; the grass grew over his unmarked grave, making it impossible to locate. A Sufi and a poet, just before his death he wrote: “Not to be heard, not a spirited song; I am the voice of anguish, a cry of colossal grief. . . . Life comes to an end, dusk approaches; in peace I will sleep, sheltered by the grave.” Shahilla Shariff’s first poetry collection, Life Lines, was published in 2012 by Proverse Hong Kong. Her work has been featured in various anthologies and journals (see WLT, January 2017, 38). Born in Kenya, she is Canadian and lives in Hong Kong. III Tamarind, turmeric, betel nut. A monk billowed in sunset orange. A novice draped in shadowy dawn. Everything is stained, dyed or shorn. A cage loses its author, a tree begets a shrine, a wilted traveler drinks water from an incidental clay pot. The heat is trapped, but prayers are born. An old woman peers out of her window. A pigeon alights on a blackened ledge. A gray hair drifts into the pale light. A gray light drifts onto her pale hair. An anguished voice, its colossus grief, a lost emperor’s grave, his scripted sleep. We are all exiles here, but for a moment we abandon our fear, call that which is torn. WORLDLIT.ORG 27 ...