Shore-parallel Ridges Research Articles

Foredune morphodynamics and sediment budgets at seasonal to decadal scales: Humboldt Bay National Wildlife Refuge, California, USA

Coastal foredunes are shore-parallel ridges that form in the backshore and their morphodynamics are controlled partly by seasonal and spatial variations in the coastal (onshore) sediment budget that, in turn, are driven by oceanic and atmospheric processes and interactions, including regional wave and wind regimes, climatic variability events (e.g., ENSO), sediment availability, beach characteristics (e.g., width, slope), and vegetation type and cover in the backshore. Previous studies on shoreline change in Northern California report only broad rates of erosion and accretion related to regional meteorological regimes. This study presents a more detailed, multi-decadal to seasonal account of shoreline response and foredune morphodynamics along a 2.5 km stretch of coast in the Humboldt Bay National Wildlife Refuge (HBNWR). Analysis of historical aerial photography (1939–2014) reveals trends in shoreline position that are coupled with more detailed assessments of foredune morphodynamics and seasonal scale volumetric changes from cross-shore topographic profiles``. These findings set the historical context of foredune morphodynamics and allow exploration of the implications of seasonal meteorological variation on long-term (75-year) foredune evolution and development at the HBNWR.DSAS describes maximum foredune progradation in the north (up to +0.51 m a−1) and maximum foredune retreat in the south (up to −0.49 m a−1). Aerial photograph analysis (2004–2014) shows statistically significant larger erosive features in the southern zone than in the northern and central zones. Seasonal volume calculations from cross-shore profiles indicate statistically significant differences in alongshore transect elevation and foredune volume, with larger elevations and volumes in the northern and central zones than in the southern. Combined with evidence of seasonal bidirectional littoral drift, these data support a north to south gradient in sediment availability, foredune position and resulting stages of established foredune development. Seasonal storm energies and climate forcing events introduce variability in erosive patterns but support the persistence of alongshore developmental stages. Future research should explore foredune morphodynamics on a smaller spatial scale and changes related to the presence/absence of multiple vegetation assemblages.

Integrating millennial and interdecadal shoreline changes: Morpho-sedimentary investigation of two prograded barriers in southeastern Australia

Prograded barriers are distinctive coastal landforms preserving the position of past shorelines as low relief, shore-parallel ridges composed of beach sediments and commonly adorned with variable amounts of dune sand. Prograded barriers have been valued as coastal archives which contain palaeoenvironmental information, however integrating the millennial timescale geological history of barriers with observed inter-decadal modern beach processes has proved difficult. Technologies such as airborne LiDAR, ground penetrating radar (GPR) and optically stimulated luminescence dating (OSL) were utilised at Boydtown and Wonboyn, in southeastern Australia, and combined with previously reported radiocarbon dates and offshore seismic and sedimentological data to reconstruct the morpho-sedimentary history of prograded barrier systems. These technologies enabled reconstruction of geological timescale processes integrated with an inter-decadal model of ridge formation explaining the GPR-imaged subsurface character of the barriers. Both the Boydtown and Wonboyn barriers began prograding ~7500–8000years ago when sea level attained at or near present height along this coastline and continued prograding until the present-day with an initially slower rate of shoreline advancement. Sources of sediment for progradation appear to be the inner shelf and shoreface with a large shelf sand body likely contributing to progradation at Wonboyn. The Towamba River seems to have delivered sediment to Twofold Bay during flood events after transitioning to a mature estuarine system sometime after ~4000cal. yr BP. Some of this material appears to have been reworked onto the Boydtown barrier, increasing the rate of progradation in the seaward 50% of the barrier deposited over the past ~1500years. The GPR imaged beachfaces are shown to have similar geometry to beach profiles following recent storm events and a model of ridge formation involving cut and fill of the beachface, and dune building in the backshore, explains the character of the preserved beachface record and the morphology of the ridges. This model is applicable to future management of individual beaches where such beaches are subject to ongoing cut and fill, dune building processes and inherited sediment budget conditions.

Chronology, Morphology and GPR-imaged Internal Structure of the Callala Beach Prograded Barrier in Southeastern Australia

ABSTRACT Oliver, T.S.N., and Woodroffe, C.D., 2016. Chronology, Morphology and GPR-imaged Internal Structure of the Callala Beach Prograded Barrier in Southeastern Australia. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 318–322. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Holocene prograded coastal barriers, comprising a sequence of relict foredune ridges, are depositional environments, which have been used to reconstruct coastal processes. Such reconstructions benefit from new techniques and technologies now available in coastal studies. This study investigated the Callala Beach prograded barrier deposit situated within Jervis Bay on the NSW south coast. This prograded barrier, composed of a series of low-relief, shore-parallel ridges, formed after sea level stabilised on this coastline in the mid Holocene. The approach involved analysis of Light...

The origin of centennial- to millennial-scale chronological gaps in storm emplaced beach ridge plains

Recent studies of tropical cyclone surge and wave emplaced beach ridge plains have shown that these sequences often contain centennial to millennial scale gaps in their chronologies. Two explanations for the gaps exist — they are due to erosion, or alternatively a cessation or substantial slowing of depositional processes suggestive of a quieter phase in intense storm activity. Differentiating between the two is important for uncovering reliable long-term storm histories from these sequences. We use landform morphology, sediment texture and luminescence chronology to determine the origin of substantial chronological gaps in a plain containing more than 100 shore-parallel ridges composed of fine-grained sand located in northeast Australia. We identify and describe the characteristics associated with both erosional and non-erosional gaps. The erosional gaps are associated with changes in orientation between ridge sets and often a high ridge with hummocky topography that appears to have been disturbed by aeolian activity. River floods likely caused the partial erosion of ridge sets. Non-erosional gaps do not display these morphological characteristics and are likely associated with quiescence in severe tropical cyclone activity. These geomorphic and chronological signatures can be used to identify different sorts of gaps in other ridge plains and are an important tool in the reconstruction of long-term storm histories from these coastal landforms. The data also suggests that fine-grained ridges can, like their coarse-grained counterparts, be predominantly deposited by storm waves and surge and their texture need not necessarily be indicative of the processes responsible for ridge development.

Chapter 15 The continental shelf of western India

Abstract The west coast of India, extending from Sir Creek in the north to Kanyakumari in the south, is a trailing passive margin that bears the imprint of generally shore-parallel and less common orthogonal structural elements. The geomorphology of the marginal part of western India, mostly controlled by the three principal structural trends of NNW–SSE Dharwar, NE–SW Aravalli orogenies and west–east Narmada graben, displays a straight coastline. The coastal ocean current operates from April to October and the net sediment transport is from north to south with the longshore current. The continental shelf width varies from 345 km off Daman in the north to 120 km off Goa and tapers to 60 km off Kochi in the south. The western continental shelf of India has an area of about 310 000 km 2 , and is divided into an inner shelf with modern clayey silt and silty clay sediments with high organic matter and low carbonate content, and an outer shelf having relict carbonate sediments, coarse sands with low organic matter and high carbonates. The mid-shelf is rather uneven topographically, and the outer shelf is commonly interrupted by shore-parallel ridges and reefs with a relief of 2–18 m. Phosphatic limestone micronodules occur in the outer shelf.

Shelf habitat distribution as a legacy of Late Quaternary marine transgressions: A case study from a tropical carbonate province

The legacy of multiple marine transgressions is preserved in a complex morphology of ridges, mounds and reefs on the Carnarvon continental shelf, Western Australia. High-resolution multibeam sonar mapping, underwater photography and sampling across a 280 km 2 area seaward of the Ningaloo Coast World Heritage Area shows that these raised features provide hardground habitat for modern coral and sponge communities. Prominent among these features is a 20 m high and 15 km long shore-parallel ridge at 60 m water depth. This ridge preserves the largely unaltered form of a fringing reef and is interpreted as the predecessor to modern Ningaloo Reef. Landward of the drowned reef, the inner shelf is covered by hundreds of mounds (bommies) up to 5 m high and linear ridges up to 1.5 km long and 16 m high. The ridges are uniformly oriented to the north–northeast and several converge at their landward limit. On the basis of their shape and alignment, these ridges are interpreted as relict long-walled parabolic dunes. Their preservation is attributed to cementation of calcareous sands to form aeolianite, prior to the post-glacial marine transgression. Some dune ridges abut areas of reef that rise to sea level and are highly irregular in outline but maintain a broad shore-parallel trend. These are tentatively interpreted as Last Interglacial in age. The mid-shelf and outer shelf are mostly sediment covered with relatively low densities of epibenthic biota and have patches of low-profile ridges that may also be relict reef shorelines. An evolutionary model for the Carnarvon shelf is proposed that relates the formation of drowned fringing reefs and aeolian dunes to Late Quaternary eustatic sea level.

Inland fields of dispersed cobbles and boulders as evidence for a tsunami on Anegada, British Virgin Islands

Marine overwash from the north a few centuries ago transported hundreds of angular cobbles and boulders tens to hundreds of meters southward from limestone outcrops in the interior of Anegada, 140 km east–northeast of Puerto Rico. We examined two of several cobble and boulder fields as part of an effort to interpret whether the overwash resulted from a tsunami or a storm in a location where both events are known to occur. One of the cobble and boulder field extends 200 m southward from limestone outcrops that are 300 m inland from the island’s north shore. The other field extends 100 m southward from a limestone knoll located 800 m from the nearest shore. In the two fields, we measured the size, orientation, and spatial distribution of a total of 161 clasts and determined their stratigraphic positions with respect to an overwash sand and shell sheet deposit. In both fields, we found the spacing between clasts increased southward and that clast long-axis orientations are consistent with a transport trending north–south. Almost half the clasts are partially buried in a landward thinning and fining overwash sand and none were found embedded in the shelly mud of a pre-overwash marine pond. The two cobble and boulder fields resemble modern tsunami deposits in which dispersed clasts extend inland as a single layer. The fields contrast with coarse clast storm deposits that often form wedge-shaped shore-parallel ridges. These comparisons suggest that the overwash resulted from a tsunami and not from a storm.

A 6000 year tropical cyclone record from Western Australia

This study provides the first long-term tropical cyclone record from the Indian Ocean region. Multiple shore parallel ridges composed entirely of one species of marine cockle shell ( Fragum eragatum) standing between 3 and 6 m above mean sea level occur at Hamelin Pool, Shark Bay, Western Australia. The ridges record a tropical cyclone history between approximately 500 cal BP and 6000–7000 cal BP. Numerical storm surge and shallow water wave modelling techniques have been applied to determine the intensity (central pressure with uncertainty margins) of the storms responsible for deposition of the ridges, which has occurred approximately every 190–270 years. The ridges also record a 1700 year gap in tropical cyclone activity, between approximately 5400 cal BP and 3700 cal BP, where ridges deposited prior to this time were buried by a substantial deposit of aeolian fine-grained terrestrial sediment. The presence of this sedimentary unit suggests that this 1700 year period was characterised by a very dry climate; possibly the driest phase experienced in this region since the mid-Holocene. The absence of tropical cyclones at this time and the occurrence of this mega-drought may be linked.

Coarse-Clast Ridge Complexes of the Caribbean: A Preliminary Basis for Distinguishing Tsunami and Storm-Wave Origins

Abstract Coastal gravel-ridge complexes deposited on islands in the Caribbean Sea are recorders of past extreme-wave events that could be associated with either tsunamis or hurricanes. The ridge complexes of Bonaire, Jamaica, Puerto Rico (Isla de Mona), and Guadeloupe consist of polymodal clasts ranging in size from sand to coarse boulders that are derived from the adjacent coral reefs or subjacent rock platforms. Ridge-complex morphologies and crest elevations are largely controlled by availability of sediments, clast sizes, and heights of wave runup. The ridge complexes are internally organized, display textural sorting and a broad range of ages including historical events. Some display seaward-dipping beds and ridge-and-swale topography, and some terminate in fans or steep avalanche slopes. Together, the morphologic, sedimentologic, lithostratigraphic, and chronostratigraphic evidence indicates that shore-parallel ridge complexes composed of gravel and sand that are tens of meters wide and several meters thick are primarily storm-constructed features that have accumulated for a few centuries or millennia as a result of multiple high-frequency intense-wave events. They are not entirely the result of one or a few tsunamis as recently reported. Tsunami deposition may account for some of the lateral ridge-complex accretion or boulder fields and isolated blocks that are associated with the ridge complexes.

Beach ridges, foredunes or transgressive dunefields? Definitions and an examination of the Torres to Tramandaí barrier system, Southern Brazil

Many prograded barriers and some dunefields in theworld have been termed 'beach ridge' plains, but the actual genesis of the 'ridges' is often unknown. Use of the terms, berms, beach ridges and foredunes is also confusing in the literature because their definitions are highly variable and are commonly used interchangeably. Thus, the formation and definition of sand berms, beach ridges and foredunes is briefly reviewed. Beach ridges are re-defined as entirely wave formed deposits which are most commonly formed during high wave conditions and/or elevated water levels (e.g. storm surges). Foredunes are formed by aeolian sand deposition in vegetation on the backshore. Some dunefields in Brazil have been called beach ridge plains when they are, in fact, foredune plains, transgressive dunefields, or complex barriers (i.e. barriers comprising two types of dunes). The Holocene barrier extending from Torres to Tramandaí in southern Brazil has been regarded as a beach ridge plain. The landforms of this Holocene barrier comprise wide, relatively linear, widely spaced (400-600m), shore parallel ridges on the landward half, and more closely spaced (80-400m), lobate and crescentic, discrete ridges on the seaward half. Low, rolling dunefields, sand sheets, nebkha fields and deflation plains occur between the ridges. The barrier is re-interpreted as a prograded, transgressive dunefield barrier.

Coastal changes along the coast of Vere, Jamaica over the past two hundred years: data from maps and air photographs

Analysis of air photographs and maps indicates complex patterns of shoreline changes along the south coast of Vere, Jamaica, between the mouths of the Rio Minho and Milk River. These include up to half a kilometre of shore-normal coastal recession between 1941 and 1991, the largest known shoreline change in Jamaica over the past 60 years. Previously, the coastline had been prograding seawards from a low cliff cut into the Rio Minho alluvial fan, in the process constructing a shore-parallel ridge and lagoon complex. The cliff itself is evidence of earlier coastal erosion. Maps published in 1804 and 1885 confirm the mobility of this coastline in historical times. They suggest that the more easterly complex of shore-parallel lagoons was constructed prior to about 1880, while the more recent, westerly beach ridges developed, at least partly, from progressive destruction of the lagoon complex, following a change in orientation of the Rio Minho mouth in the late 19th Century. Photographs of 1999 indicate the onset of accretion, probably resulting from the gradual onshore movement of massive quantities of sediment deposited off the Rio Minho mouth during the extreme flood event of 1986 and several lesser events in 1988 and the 1990s.

Marine Sand Resources Offshore Israel

The continental margin of northern Sinai and Israel, up to Haifa Bay, is the northeastern limb of the submarine Nile Delta Cone. It is made up predominantly of clastics from the Nile and its predecessors. The continental shelf and coastal plain of Israel are built of a series of shore-parallel ridges composed of carbonate-cemented quartz sandstone (locally named kurkar), a lithification product of windblown sands that were piled up into dunes during the Pleistocene. The drop in global sea level and regression during the last glacial period exposed the continental shelf to subaerial erosion and created a widespread regional erosional unconformity which is expressed as a prominent seismic reflector at the top of the kurkar layers. The subsequent Holocene transgression abraded much of the westernmost kurkar ridges, drowned their cores, and covered the previous lowstand deposits with marine sands, which were in turn covered by a sequence of sub-Recent clayey silts. The Mediterranean coasts of Sinai and Israel are part of the Nile littoral cell. Since the building of the Aswan dams the sand supplied to Israel's coastal system is derived mainly from erosion of the Nile Delta and from sands offshore Egypt that are stirred up by storm waves. The sands are transported by longshore and offshore currents along the coasts of northern Sinai and Israel. Their volume gradually declines northward with distance from their Nile source. The longshore transport terminates in Haifa Bay where some sand is trapped, and the test escapes to deeper water by bottom currents and through submarine canyons, thus denying Nile-derived sand supply to the 40-km-long Akko-Rosh Haniqra shelf. The sand balance along Israel's coastal zone is a product of natural processes and human intervention. Losses due to the outgoing longshore transport, seaward escape, and landward wind transport exceed the natural gains from the incoming longshore transport and the abrasion of the coastal cliffs. The deficit is aggravated by the construction of (1) seaward-projecting structures that trap sands on the upstream side and (2) offshore detached breakwaters that trap sands between themselves and the coast. The negative sand balance is manifested by the removal of sand from the seabed and the consequent exposure of archaeological remains that were hitherto protected by it. The sediments that escape seaward from the longshore transport system form a 2.5- to 4-km-wide sandy apron adjacent to the shore that extends to where the water is 30–40 m deep. The apron's slope (0.5–0.8°) is steeper than the theoretical equilibrium slope for the median grain-size diameter in this zone (0.1–0.3 mm). The beach sands and the apron's surficial sands are well sorted. Their grain size decreases with distance from shore, from 0.2–0.3 mm nearshore to 0.11–0.16 mm by the drowned ridge. The coarse-grained fraction consists of skeletal debris (commonly 5–12% carbonate matter) and wave-milled kurkar grains (locally named zifzif). In deeper water, the basal sands underlying the fine-grained sediment cover consist of 1- to 30-cm layers whose composition ranges from silty sands to various types of sands (fine, medium, coarse, and gravelly) to zifzif. For the most part, they contain large amounts of skeletal debris (20–60%) and small fragments of kurkar. Two types of kurkar rock were encountered offshore: a well-sorted, fine- to medium-grained (0.074–0.300 mm) lithified dune sand with variable amounts of carbonate cement, ranging from hard rock of low permeability to loose sand; and a porous sandstone made up predominantly of algal grains and skeletal debris (calcarenite).