Shirt Collars Research Articles

Assessing saliency models of observers' visual attention on acquired facial differences.

Saliency models that predict observers' visual attention to facial differences could enable psychosocial interventions to help patients and their families anticipate staring behaviors. The purpose of this study was to assess the ability of existing saliency models to predict observers' visual attention to acquired facial differences arising from head and neck cancer and its treatment. Saliency maps predicted by graph-based visual saliency (GBVS), an artificial neural network (ANN), and a face-specific model were compared to observer fixation maps generated from eye-tracking of lay observers presented with clinical facial photographs of patients with a visible or functional impairment manifesting in the head and neck region. We used a linear mixed-effects model to investigate observer and stimulus factors associated with the saliency models' accuracy. The GBVS model predicted many irrelevant regions (e.g., shirt collars) as being salient. The ANN model underestimated observers' attention to facial differences relative to the central region of the face. Compared with GBVS and ANN, the face-specific saliency model was more accurate on this task; however, the face-specific model underestimated the saliency of deviations from the typical structure of human faces. The linear mixed-effects model revealed that the location of the facial difference (midface versus periphery) was significantly associated with saliency model performance. Model performance was also significantly impacted by interobserver variability. Existing saliency models are not adequate for predicting observers' visual attention to facial differences. Extensions of face-specific saliency models are needed to accurately predict the saliency of acquired facial differences arising from head and neck cancer and its treatment.

Predicting Drape of Fused Collar using Design of Experiment

The fused collar components used in shirt manufacturing requires a specific fall and drape that depends on the type of used interlining. The interlining selection is primarily based on the subjective evaluation of fused composites. There is a need to predict the behaviour of fused shirt collars objectively. The drape of fused composites can be indicative of the shape and fall of the shirt collar. The aim of this paper was to propose a set of polynomial equations using DOE that can predict the drape behaviour of fused shirt collars before and after the washing. The Plackett-Burman design was used to screen the influential factors and the full factorial design was used to derive the polynomial equation explaining the effect of factors on the drape behaviour of fused shirting samples. The prediction was attempted with easily measurable parameters of component materials and the fusing process. The study found that the fabric weave, cover factor, raw material, interlining weight and pressure applied during the fusing process have a significant effect on the drape of fused collars. This information can be used in the 3D sampling of fused shirt components.

A new concept of full-automated equipment for the manufacture of shirt collars and cuffs

• Clothes production is usually a labour-intensive task. • Automation has been increasingly applied in some clothes production operations. • A full-automatic equipment has been developed, allowing collars and cuffs production. • Equipment allows automatic cutting and sewing operations in shirt components. • The different equipment components have been structurally optimized, becoming the equipment more sustainable. • Equipment avoids the use of labour in repetitive and boring tasks with low added-value. The quality requirements in clothing manufacturing have been increasing and consumer pressure on prices has also grown steadily. In fact, the textile industry is continuously seeking for countries practicing low salaries, because this kind of industry is usually based on labour-intensive tasks, to the detriment of task automation. Thus, clothing manufacturers need to be creative in order to improve the manufacturing processes, trying to automate the needed operations to produce each cloth component as much as possible. Automated operations avoid manufacturing mistakes and increase productivity, which are the main concerns of the clothing market. This work intends to develop a new concept of equipment able to produce collars and cuffs for shirts almost fully automatically. The manual movements have been carefully observed, optimized and replicated by the equipment, which successfully sews and cuts collars and cuffs for shirt fabrication. The structure and main systems used in the equipment were studied using the Finite Element Method (FEM), ensuring the required accuracy for all related operations. The result is a functional equipment that is able to be produced in large scale with an affordable cost, overcoming several problems related to the labour usually associated with the sewing and cutting operations required to fabricate collars and cuffs.

Design of Wearable Radio Frequency Identification Antenna

This paper focuses on the development of a wearable radio frequency identification (RFID) antenna to be embedded on shirt collars or cuffs. Wearable RFID tags tend to be conformal, and are required to reasonably meet design specifications even when under deformation. A simple circular dipole structure was selected as the base design for the antenna. Operating in the ultra-high frequency band at 866 MHz and over an operating range of around 5 m, the antenna is versatile enough to be used for a number of applications such as the tagging of patients in a hospital or for workers on dangerous construction sites. The designs presented account for the complex input impedance generally observed in RFID systems and the final design employs an intricate spiral structure to accommodate longer wavelengths. This resulted in a compact portable antenna able to meet device specifications.

Human Indoor Exposure to Airborne Halogenated Flame Retardants: Influence of Airborne Particle Size.

Inhalation of halogenated flame-retardants (HFRs) released from consumer products is an important route of exposure. However, not all airborne HFRs are respirable, and thus interact with vascular membranes within the gas exchange (alveolar) region of the lung. HFRs associated with large (>4 µm), inhalable airborne particulates are trapped on the mucosal lining of the respiratory tract and then are expelled or swallowed. The latter may contribute to internal exposure via desorption from particles in the digestive tract. Exposures may also be underestimated if personal activities that re-suspend particles into the breathing zone are not taken into account. Here, samples were collected using personal air samplers, clipped to the participants’ shirt collars (n = 18). We observed that the larger, inhalable air particulates carried the bulk (>92%) of HFRs. HFRs detected included those removed from commerce (i.e., polybrominated diphenyl ethers (Penta-BDEs: BDE-47, -85, -100, -99, and -153)), their replacements; e.g., 2-ethylhexyl 2,3,4,5-tetrabromobenzoate (TBB or EH-TBB); bis(2-ethylhexyl) 3,4,5,6-tetrabromophthalate (TBPH or BEH-TEBP) and long-produced chlorinated organophosphate-FRs (ClOPFRs): tris(2-chloroethyl)phosphate (TCEP), tris(1-chloro-2-propyl)phosphate (TCPP or TCIPP), and tris(1,3-dichloro-2-propyl)phosphate (TDCPP or TDCIPP). Our findings suggest estimates relying on a single exposure route, i.e., alveolar gas exchange, may not accurately estimate HFR internal dosage, as they ignore contributions from larger inhalable particulates that enter the digestive tract. Consideration of the fate and bioavailability of these larger particulates resulted in higher dosage estimates for HFRs with log Koa < 12 (i.e., Penta-BDEs and ClOPFRs) and lower estimates for those with log Koa > 12 (i.e., TBB and TBPH) compared to the alveolar route exposure alone. Of those HFRs examined, the most significant effect was the lower estimate by 41% for TBPH. The bulk of TBPH uptake from inhaled particles was estimated to be through the digestive tract, with lower bioavailability. We compared inhalation exposure estimates to chronic oral reference doses (RfDs) established by several regulatory agencies. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) RfD levels for several HFRs are considered outdated; however, BDE-99 levels exceeded those suggested by the Dutch National Institute for Public Health and the Environment (RIVM) by up to 26 times. These findings indicate that contributions and bioavailability of respirable and inhalable airborne particulates should both be considered in future risk assessments.

A Study on the Shirt Collar with Collar Band

This study aims to help understanding on design of basic pattern of shirt collars and to suggest schemes to raise completeness of shape by reviewing problems shown in finished products after sewing. From March 2009 to August 2009, 12 patterns for education and firms were collected centering on basic shirt collar form respectively. There are four problems generally raised from a completed shirt collar. In case of overlapping shirt collar on front neck point, the sewing point of shirt collar should be drawn at front neck point of collar band at a distance of about 0.2~0.3cm, and the center front of band and one of bodice should be arranged in a straight line. In case of the problem about right and left length difference of shirt collar, it is raised by closing so the problem was solved by prolonging about 0.2 cm of the center front of left collar. It was evaluated that adjusting notch point when sewing would be more rational solution than solving something on patterns for distance difference problem of shirt collar between right and left part at center front. And a problem about getting loose of front garment between collar band below and the first button was also raised. It was designed 0.2cm cut of collar band. Around basic shirt collar form, above mentioned solutions are applied to the patterns for education and manufacture experimental clothing. So as a result of sensory evaluation, generally good ratings on all items were received.

&amp;quot;I Came Back as Nobody&amp;quot;: An Interview with the Former Baby Peggy

On March 10, 2006 I interviewed Diana Serra Cary, best known for her career as the 1920s child movie star Peggy. Ms. Cary was born October 29, 1918 and began making films at the age of twenty months after being discovered by director Fred Fishback. Her parents signed her to a contract at poverty row's Century Studio, where she was first featured in a series of tworeelers Brownie the Wonder Dog. Six months later Century producers Julius and Abe Stern declared her a star, giving Peggy her own series and production unit. As Motion Picture News reported it, Baby Peggy, the talented, versatile little two year old, famous for her work as co-star to Brownie the wonder dog, has been elevated to stardom.1 Peggy was a veritable phenomenon of early child actor stardom. In a 1922 Motion Picture Classic Willis Goldbeck described her as, with Jackie Coogan, one of the two kid stars who have justified individual stardom.2 Critics often noted her knack for comedy and her smile-inducing cuteness, whether making mischief a box of Edward Everett Horton's shirt collars in Helen's Babies (William Seiter, US, 1924) or pretending to be Rudolph Valentino in Peg O' the Movies (Alfred Goulding, US, 1923). Adela Rogers St. Johns wrote of her, Nothing else in the world except a tiny, black kitten- very fluffy-or a very small, white bull pup could possibly be as cute as Peggy.3 Dorothy Whitehall's Juvenile Critic column proclaimed that the young actress' antics in Peg O' the Movies made her laugh until she cried.4 A 1923 Peggy look-alike contest in Denver, Colorado resulted in a reported onslaught of 3,000 aspirants: Eleven hundred boxes of candy were given away, and then the promoters quit in despair.5 Photoplay called her one of your curled and frilled starlets, but a bobbed, banged, comical child of three, more humor in one diminutive finger than grown-up luminaries have in ten manicured digits.6 All of this before her fifth birthday. After her father broke an immensely lucrative contract independent producer Sol Lesser in 1925, Peggy hit the vaudeville circuit as a headliner, compelled by her parents to continue supporting the family by exploiting her Hollywood fame on the road. In 1932, Peggy-now using the adolescent name Peggy Montgomery-returned to Hollywood, but the silent era was long gone and the former child star had little to broker in the newly reinvented sound-era Hollywood. Again urged on by her parents, Montgomery struggled to find work as an extra, taking largely uncredited bit parts. She had now lived the life of the preeminent child star and the struggling Hollywood extra. A 1932 Movie Classic article, titled Remember Peggy? She's Back Again-As a Young Lady, heralds her return to Hollywood and reports a new contract to make two-reel comedies the Gleason family.7 Following an unsuccessful lawsuit, filed by Peggy's father Jack Montomgery against actor James Gleason and producer Norman Sper for allegedly breaking this nine picture contract, Peggy Montgomery's 1933 headline read: Film Actress, 14, Loses $500,000 Action in Court.8 Ms. Cary permanently retired from the screen when she married in 1938, and left Hollywood altogether in 1943 when she joined her husband at Fort Ord in northern California. Only a handful of the feature films made Peggy survive, and few of the approximately 150 two-reelers she made for Century are extant.9 None of the surviving films are yet available on DVD. This is a particular shame given Ms. Cary's capacity for informed commentary and historical insight, which she has amply demonstrated in her four wellresearched and smartly written books: The Hollywood Posse, Whatever Happened to Peggy?, Hollywood's Children: An Inside Account of the Child Star Era, and Jackie Coogan: The World's Boy King. Ms. Cary has become a major advocate for the rights of child stars, whose parents often control not only their lives but their considerable fortunes as well. …

Orthopedic Manhood: Detachable Shirt Collars and the Reconstruction of the White Male Body in America, ca. 1880–1910

(2005). Orthopedic Manhood: Detachable Shirt Collars and the Reconstruction of the White Male Body in America, ca. 1880–1910. Dress: Vol. 32, No. 1, pp. 75-95.

ソーシャルＬＣＡを用いた家庭洗濯の環境負荷の評価

In recent years, changes in the family composition and lifestyles have increased the use of automatic washing machines that save energy and are less environmentally harmful. These factors, along with new developments such as compact powdered detergent, have led to changes in consumer home-laundry behav-ior. In place of a typical environmental life cycle product assessment (called ISO-LCA), we proposed the application of social life cycle assessment (called social LCA) as part of a comprehensive study of consumer behavior related to home laundry. In this study, we examined plans to reduce environmental impact during the overall life cycle, including the wear cycle of clothes, through the application of social LCA to two types of washing machines: the pulsator type and the drum type. We examined the effect of the mechanical action of pulsator-type and drum-type washing machines by measuring detergency using artificially soiled test clothes (JIS C 9606), by evaluating the raveling of MA test pieces (Technology Institute, Denmark), and by determining the shrinkage percentage of shirt collars. In addition, we measured the consumption of elec-tricity and the water volumes of the washing machines in a single cycle. Our study of the social LCA of the home laundry process has clarified that CO2 emissions during machine use are much greater than CO2 emissions during the actual manufacture of either type of washing machine. In addition, it has been clarified that the pulsator-type washing machine can reduce total CO2 emissions to a greater extent than the drum-type washing machine over its lifecycle with an increasing weight of clothes washed per load. Of all lifecycle stages, levels of CO2 emissions are highest during the period in which the wears phase. Furthermore, we found that the total CO2 emissions increased to the greatest extent if the drying process is included.

Locating defects on shirt collars using image processing

Recent developments in the hardware and software mean that the automation of visual fabric inspection tasks is becoming feasible at low cost. This paper investigates the techniques that can be used to solve the problem of repetitive, tedious and physically demanding human inspection for defects in shirt collars. The faults studied in this work are those found in nine types of defects that can be present on shirt collar panels. Two statistical methods: moving group average, and moving divided group average are proposed. In addition, highlighting and variance techniques are applied to an image with moving group average and signature counting. These techniques gave an indication of fast computation time to detect the defects on the image, which is needed in manufacturing, and could be applied to most automated inspection systems.

Some Facts on Residual Soils on Home-Laundered Dress Shirt Collars

To identify problems in low-temperature home laundry in Japan, a wear-and-wash test for men's white dress shirts (cotton/polyester=35/65) was carried out at 25 households throughout the country, where laundry was done under typical conditions, using a spray-dried powdery detergent containing no special additive or enzyme. After the test, the quantities of sebum and protein remaining on shirt collars were measured, and residual soils were observed with an electron microscope. The quantities of sebum and protein were found to increase linearly with the number of wear-and-wash cycles. After an average of 14.7 wear-and-wash cycles, the collar of a shirt not washed contained 184.2 mg of sebum and 21.0 mg of protein on the average, and one after being washed contained 159.9 mg of sebum and 10.4 mg of protein on the average, thus showing unsatisfactory detergency. 96 % of residual protein on the shirt collars unwashed was water-insoluble keratin filaments of human horny cells, and water-soluble protein accounted for only 4 %. SDS-PAGE and transmission electron microscopy confirmed all residual protein soils on collars after being washed to be keratin filaments of human horny cells. Coefficients of correlation between visually judged cleanliness of shirt collars and the quantities of residual sebum and protein were about 0.65 and 0.50, respectively. Thus, residual sebum and protein determine to a considerable degree the cleanliness of shirt collars.

Advanced Automation for Shirt‐collar Manufacturing

Summarizes the work conducted on the research and development of machinery to automate the turning and pressing of collars and their automated assembly to the shirt‐collar bands sponsored by the Defense Logistics Agency. This research and development has involved the conceptualization, design and development of proof‐of‐concept shirt‐collar turning and pressing processes based on “double‐point turning and pressing” and their systems integration into a robot‐assisted apparel workstation. The work has also involved a second activity to understand, design and develop technology which can temporarily fold and crease single‐ply shirt‐collar bands for continuous automated assembly of shirt collars and collar‐bands. This work has involved the understanding of the folding and creasing properties of various apparel fabrics, the evaluation of two technology approaches for accomplishing this task, and the attachment machine control technology for high‐speed collar and collar‐band joining.

The German Worker: Working-Class Autobiographies from the Age of Industrialization

In the two generations before World War I, Germany emerged as Europe's foremost industrial power. The basic facts of increasing industrial output, lengthening railroad lines, urbanization, and rising exports are well known. Behind those facts, in the historical shadows, stand millions of anonymous men and women: the workers who actually put down the railroad ties, hacked out the coal, sewed the shirt collars, printed the books, or carried the bricks that made Germany a great nation. This book contains translated selections from the autobiographies of nineteen of those now-forgotten millions. The thirteen men and six women who speak from these pages afford an intimate firsthand look at how massive social and economic changes are reflected on a personal level in the everyday lives of workers. Although some of these autobiographies are familiar to specialists in German labor history, they are virtually unknown and inaccessible to the broader audience they deserve. This book provides translations that are at once useful, interesting, and entertaining to a wide range of historians, students, and general readers.

The Use of Multiple Low Cost Vision Sensors in Fabric Pick and Place Tasks

Abstract The use of several low cost dynamic RAM cameras to facilitate the accurate assembly of fabric panels is described. Two cases are considered, the assembly of shirt collars and a stage in the production of mens' underwear. The cameras are mounted on a robot gripper and used to locate features on the panels so that the gripper can be positionedaccurately. Details of the hardware and software aspects of the cameras are given.

A Study on the Diffusion Curves of Dress Fashion

The diffusion curves of the women's dress fashion have been analyzed by surveying fashion magazines for the last twenty years. The fashion curves have been obtained by plotting, in time series, the appearance percentage of a specific fashion category to the total fashion item. The results are :(1) The diffusion curve of the mini-skirt fashion at growing and fading stage has coincided with the Gaussian distribution.(2) All diffusion curves may be classified into five listed in the Table 2 of this paper.(3) A fashion having a greater amplitude of the diffusion curve corresponds to the showy design. By contrast, a fashion having a less amplitude correponds to the plain or simple design.(4) There are some designs which are in fashion at thesame time, e.g., flare skirts vs. polka dots, nicher pants vs. shirt collars.(5) Different categories belonging to the same fashion are sometimes in fashion periodically, e.g., the length of skirts, coats, etc.

Exposure to coal tar pitch volatiles at coke ovens.

Personnel of the Pennsylvania Division of Occupational Health began surveying for exposure to coal tar pitch volatiles at coke ovens in 1966. A routine of sampling procedure and method of analysis has been developed, and ten coke oven installations have been surveyed. Approximately 320 samples were collected with filters mounted in plastic holders attached to the workers' shirt collars, and an integrated sample of 3 to 6 hours was obtained. Samples were also collected at various fixed locations. The results of these surveys have been compiled to determine exposure levels of specific jobs and work situations. The report indicates that all exposures are in excess of the threshold limit value.

Stand for something or you'll fall for anything

A few years ago, for a reason I find hard to fathom even in terms of random sampling, I was asked to participate in a consumer survey involving two brands of laundry detergent. Two boxes arrived, one labeled “A,” and the other labeled “B.” The contents, as far as I could tell, were identical. I agreed to try each of the detergents and then fill out a questionnaire — check boxes on the paper to indicate which of their prefabricated descriptions I subscribed to. Which brand do you like better? Why? Under “Why,” one of the responses available for checking was “more modern.” That really stumped me. What is it that makes a detergent modern? What makes a detergent old-fashioned, or traditional, or conventional, or decadent, or whatever the antonym for “modern” is? Suppose one detergent is modern and the other is not. Is the one which is modern better? It's a curious thing, this word “modern.” If it is followed by “strawberry jam” or “apple pie,” most people turn up their noses at the product being described. If it is followed by “airplane” or “fabric” or “diet” or “mathematics,” most people think that what is being described is a consummation devoutly to be wished. What is a modern detergent? Whatever it is, if I am a housewife, I want it. (I'll keep a bar of Grandma's lye soap on hand for the shirt collars.) What is a modern mathematics? Whatever it is, if I'm a parent, I want my children to have it.

Carcinoma of the Kidney Presenting as a Thyroid Nodule

THE THYROID gland, although a very vascular structure, is an uncommon site of metastatic involvement. Lucke and Schlumberger1found the thyroid involved in metastatic disease in 1.3% of patients on whom autopsies were performed who had renal adenocarcinoma. The over-all incidence of metastatic lesions in the thyroid is 4%. There are a number of cases reported of patients operated on, with a presumptive diagnosis of primary carcinoma of the thyroid, in whom adenocarcinoma of the kidney was later found to be the primary focus of the malignancy. Report of a Case A 40-yr-old white male physician had noted increased tightness of his shirt collars for a period of approximately 6 mo which he attributed to recent weight gain. While shaving, 24 hr before admission, the patient noted a mass over the right lobe of the thyroid gland. He had no other symptoms. Laboratory studies performed on admission included hemogram,