Sediment Transport Modeling System Research Articles

Development of a daily coastal ocean model for Mississippi Sound and Bight

The Mississippi Sound and Bight is a complex coastal system with shallow estuarine waters that are highly vulnerable to the effects of climate change and anthropogenic influences. In order to further our understanding of the system and provide natural resource managers and decision-makers with science-based guidance, a pre-operational coastal ocean forecast system has been developed using the Coupled Ocean Atmosphere Wave Sediment Transport Modeling System (COAWST). The COAWST application for Mississippi Bight (msbCOAWST) can be run in hindcast mode, pre-operational near real-time mode, or forecast mode and relies on other operational models including the National Water Model (NWM) for river forcing, the High Resolution Rapid Refresh model (HRRR) for atmospheric forcing, and the Navy Coastal Ocean Model (NCOM) for open ocean boundary forcing. msbCOAWST is being validated using data from a variety of in situ measurements that quantify coastal processes, including tides and water quality parameters (i.e. temperature and salinity). The highest model skill is obtained for temperature followed by water levels and salinity. msbCOAWST has been used to provide guidance for quantifying how freshwater influences derived from river diversion operations impact water quality in estuarine waters. While the model is initially developed to study water quality and circulation in pre-operational near real-time and forecast modes, it is currently being extended to include waves, sediment transport, and biogeochemistry and also linked with habitat suitability models and ecological models in hindcast mode so as to comprehensively reveal consequential environmental concerns due to the onset and persistence of hypoxia, seasonal and storm-induced waves with their associated impacts on the region’s fisheries and shellfisheries.

Total water levels along the South Atlantic Bight during three along-shelf propagating tropical cyclones: relative contributions of storm surge and wave runup

Abstract. Total water levels (TWLs), including the contribution of wind waves, associated with tropical cyclones (TCs) are among the most damaging hazards faced by coastal communities. TC-induced economic losses are expected to increase because of stronger TC intensity, sea level rise, and increased populations along the coasts. TC intensity, translation speed, and distance to the coast affect the magnitude and duration of increased TWLs and wind waves. Under climate change, the proportion of high-intensity TCs is projected to increase globally, whereas the variation pattern of TC translation speed also depends on the ocean basin and latitude. There is an urgent need to improve our understanding of the linkages between TC characteristics and TWL components. In the past few years, hurricanes Matthew (2016), Dorian (2019), and Isaias (2020) propagated over the South Atlantic Bight (SAB) with similar paths but resulted in different coastal impacts. We combined in situ observations and numerical simulations with the Coupled Ocean–Atmosphere–Wave–Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system to analyze the extreme TWLs under the three TCs. Model verification showed that the TWL components were well reproduced by the present model setup. Our results showed that the peak storm surge and the peak wave runup depended mainly on the TC intensity, the distance to the TC eye, and the TC heading direction. A decrease in TC translation speed primarily led to longer exceedance durations of TWLs, which may result in more severe economic losses. Wave-dependent water level components (i.e., wave setup and wave swash) were found to dominate the peak TWL within the near-TC field. Our results also showed that in specific conditions, the prestorm wave runup associated with the TC-induced swell may lead to TWLs higher than at the peak of the storm. This was the case along the SAB during Hurricane Isaias. Isaias's fast TC translation speed and the fact that its swell was not blocked by any islands were the main factors contributing to these peak TWLs ahead of the storm peak.

Effects of swell waves on the dynamics of the estuarine turbidity maximum in an idealized convergent partially mixed estuary

The dynamics of estuarine sediments plays a key role in the morphological evolution, water quality, and ecosystem health of estuaries. Estuarine turbidity maxima (ETMs) are ubiquitous in estuaries worldwide and have drawn enormous attention from researchers. Here, we use a coupled ocean–atmosphere–wave–sediment transport modeling system to examine the effects of swell waves on the location, extent, and suspended sediment concentration (SSC) of ETMs in a convergent partially mixed estuary. Our results reveal that swell waves influence the residual circulation, mixing, and bottom stress in the estuary. The wave–current interaction increases the bottom stress in the estuary but reduces mixing in the lower to middle reaches of the estuary, owing to the enhanced landward salt transport, and the increased stratification. The reduced mixing enhances the estuarine circulation in the middle reach of the estuary. These changes cause a landward shift of the primary ETM and an increase in the SSC in the lower estuary. Moreover, the Coriolis force changes the ETM distribution and influences the wave effects. Overall, the findings of this study further elucidate ETM dynamics in an estuary. • Swell wave advects more saline water in the estuary and increases stratification. • Wave-current interaction increases the bottom stress in the lower estuary. • Swell wave causes a landward shift of the primary estuarine turbidity maxima (ETM).

Multi-instrument observations of microseisms generated by typhoon Kalmaegi (2014) over the Northwestern Pacific

The typhoon-generated microseisms, originating from the complex energy coupling and transferring among the Atmosphere-Ocean-Solid Earth spheres, can be detected remotely by seismometers as the strongest ambient seismic noise. The lack of in situ observations during the passage of typhoons has hampered numerical modeling of wind fields and ocean waves, and limited our understanding of the generation mechanisms of microseisms associated with typhoons. Here we present a comprehensive investigation of microseisms generated by typhoon Kalmaegi (September 2014) based on multiple-instrument constraints from observations including terrestrial and ocean-bottom seismic stations as well as ocean buoys. To understand the generation mechanisms, we apply an improved frequency-domain beamforming method to seismic array data leading to successful location of double-frequency (DF) microseism source regions. For comparison, we calculate the typhoon-induced ocean waves and theoretical source regions of the DF microseisms using the coupled ocean–atmosphere–wave–sediment transport modeling system with validation by ocean buoy observations. Both observations and numerical modeling results reveal two different generation mechanisms for typhoon-induced DF microseisms during the lifespan of Kalmaegi. When over the Philippine Sea, the DF microseisms were generated mainly by opposing ocean waves from two distinct storms. After Kalmaegi entered the South China Sea, the DF microseisms were generated mainly by the fast-moving typhoon with source regions just trailing behind, with the minimum frequencies determined by the typhoon translation speed. DF microseisms generated in coastal source regions were not detected by ocean bottom seismometers, suggesting that DF microseisms might not effectively propagate across the ocean-basin seafloor covered by thick sediments, owing to severe seismic attenuation and spreading losses. This information is crucial for the use of DF microseisms for future tracking and monitoring of typhoons.

Development of the CSOMIO Coupled Ocean-Oil-Sediment- Biology Model

The fate and dispersal of oil in the ocean is dependent upon ocean dynamics, as well as transformations resulting from the interaction with the microbial community and suspended particles. These interaction processes are parameterized in many models limiting their ability to accurately simulate the fate and dispersal of oil for subsurface oil spill events. This paper presents a coupled ocean-oil-biology-sediment modeling system developed by the Consortium for Simulation of Oil-Microbial Interactions in the Ocean (CSOMIO) project. A key objective of the CSOMIO project was to develop and evaluate a modeling framework for simulating oil in the marine environment, including its interaction with microbial food webs and sediments. The modeling system developed is based on the Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport model (COAWST). Central to CSOMIO’s coupled modeling system is an oil plume model coupled to the hydrodynamic model (Regional Ocean Modeling System, ROMS). The oil plume model is based on a Lagrangian approach that describes the oil plume dynamics including advection and diffusion of individual Lagrangian elements, each representing a cluster of oil droplets. The chemical composition of oil is described in terms of three classes of compounds: saturates, aromatics, and heavy oil (resins and asphaltenes). The oil plume model simulates the rise of oil droplets based on ambient ocean flow and density fields, as well as the density and size of the oil droplets. The oil model also includes surface evaporation and surface wind drift. A novel component of the CSOMIO model is two-way Lagrangian-Eulerian mapping of the oil characteristics. This mapping is necessary for implementing interactions between the ocean-oil module and the Eulerian sediment and biogeochemical modules. The sediment module is a modification of the Community Sediment Transport Modeling System. The module simulates formation of oil-particle aggregates in the water column. The biogeochemical module simulates microbial communities adapted to the local environment and to elevated concentrations of oil components in the water column. The sediment and biogeochemical modules both reduce water column oil components. This paper provides an overview of the CSOMIO coupled modeling system components and demonstrates the capabilities of the modeling system in the test experiments.

Transport of Placed Dredged Material in Surf and Nearshore Zone

Abstract Driven by waves, water surface elevation, and wind conditions, a coupled wave, hydrodynamic, and sediment transport modeling system was developed to investigate the transport of placed dre...

The role of sediment-induced light attenuation on primary production during Hurricane Gustav (2008)

Abstract. We introduced a sediment-induced light attenuation algorithm into a biogeochemical model of the Coupled Ocean–Atmosphere–Wave–Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system. A fully coupled ocean–atmospheric–sediment–biogeochemical simulation was carried out to assess the impact of sediment-induced light attenuation on primary production in the northern Gulf of Mexico during the passage of Hurricane Gustav in 2008. When compared with model results without sediment-induced light attenuation, our new model showed a better agreement with satellite data on both the magnitude of nearshore chlorophyll concentration and the spatial distribution of offshore bloom. When Hurricane Gustav approached, resuspended sediment shifted the inner shelf ecosystem from a nutrient-limited one to a light-limited one. Only 1 week after Hurricane Gustav's landfall, accumulated nutrients and a favorable optical environment induced a posthurricane algal bloom in the top 20 m of the water column, while the productivity in the lower water column was still light-limited due to slow-settling sediment. Corresponding with the elevated offshore NO3 flux (38.71 mmol N m−1 s−1) and decreased chlorophyll flux (43.10 mg m−1 s−1), the outer shelf posthurricane bloom should have resulted from the cross-shelf nutrient supply instead of the lateral dispersed chlorophyll. Sensitivity tests indicated that sediment light attenuation efficiency affected primary production when sediment concentration was moderately high. Model uncertainties due to colored dissolved organic matter and parameterization of sediment-induced light attenuation are also discussed.

A Numerical Investigation of Wave‐Supported Gravity Flow During Cold Fronts Over the Atchafalaya Shelf

AbstractWave‐supported fluid mud (WSFM) plays an important role in sediment downslope transport on the continental shelves. In this study, we incorporated WSFM processes in the wave boundary layer (WBL) into the Community Sediment Transport Modeling System (CSTMS) on the platform of the Coupled Ocean‐Atmosphere‐Wave‐and‐Sediment Transport modeling system (COAWST). The WSFM module was introduced between the bottommost water layer and top sediment layer, which accounted for the key sediment exchange processes (e.g., resuspension, vertical settling, diffusion, and horizontal advection) at the water‐WBL and WBL‐sediment bed boundaries. To test its robustness, we adapted the updated model (CSTMS + WBL) to the Atchafalaya shelf in the northern Gulf of Mexico and successfully reproduced the sediment dynamics in March 2008, when active WSFM processes were reported. Compared with original CSTMS results, including WSFM module weakened the overall intensity of sediment resuspension, and the CSTMS + WBL model simulated a lutocline between the WBL and overlying water due to the formation of WSFM. Downslope WSFM transport resulted in offshore deposition (>4 cm), which greatly changed the net erosion/deposition pattern on the inner shelf off the Chenier Plain. WSFM flux was comparable with suspended sediment flux (SSF) off the Atchafalaya Bay, and it peaked along the Chenier Plain coast where wave activities were strong and the bathymetric slope was steep. The influence of fluvial sediment supply on sediment dynamics was limited in the Atchafalaya Bay. Sensitivity tests of free settling, flocculation, and hindered settling effects suggested that sediments were transported further offshore due to reduced settling velocity in the WBL once fluid mud was formed. Although sediment concentration in the WBL was sensitive to surface sediment critical shear stress, cohesive bed behavior was less important in WSFM dynamics when compared with strong hydrodynamic during cold fronts.

Lateral Circulation and Associated Sediment Transport in a Convergent Estuary

AbstractThe Coupled Ocean–Atmosphere–Wave–Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system was used to explore lateral circulation and associated sediment transport in a convergent estuary with existence of channel and shoals. The lateral momentum balance was found to be largely geostrophic with a barotropic pressure gradient balanced by a baroclinic pressure gradient and Coriolis forcing during most time of a tidal cycle, except at the maximum ebb/flood. At the east side (right side looking landward), due to estuarine convergence, barotropic forcing strongly modulates lateral momentum balance and generates eastward residual sediment transport during spring tides. But during neap tides, the enhanced lateral density gradient induces strong lateral baroclinic forcing to cause westward residual sediment flux. At the west side, baroclinic forcing strongly influences the lateral momentum balance and generates westward sediment transport. Together, lateral circulation tends to distribute sediment from the channel to both the side shoals during spring tides but generates westward sediment flux during neap tides. The diagnostic analysis of the lateral gradient of suspended sediment concentration (SSC) demonstrates that lateral sediment trapping is strongly influenced by the lateral circulation and the lateral asymmetry in bed erosion during spring tides, whereas lateral advection becomes the controlling factor during neap tides. Mechanisms for the lateral circulation and sediment transport can be extended to other convergent estuaries.

Effects of wave-current interaction on the waves, cold-water mass and transport of diluted water in the Beibu Gulf

Wave-current interaction and its effects on the hydrodynamic environment in the Beibu Gulf (BG) have been investigated via employing the Coupled Ocean–Atmosphere–Wave–Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system. The model could simulate reasonable hydrodynamics in the BG when validated by various observations. Vigorous tidal currents refract the waves efficiently and make the seas off the west coast of Hainan Island be the hot spot where currents modulate the significant wave height dramatically. During summer, wave-enhanced bottom stress could weaken the near-shore component of the gulf-scale cyclonic-circulation in the BG remarkably, inducing two major corresponding adjustments: Model results reveal that the deep-layer cold water from the southern BG makes critical contribution to maintaining the cold-water mass in the northern BG Basin. However, the weakened background circulation leads to less cold water transported from the southern gulf to the northern gulf, which finally triggers a 0.2°C warming in the cold-water mass area; In the top areas of the BG, the suppressed background circulation reduces the transport of the diluted water to the central gulf. Therefore, more freshwater could be trapped locally, which then triggers lower sea surface salinity (SSS) in the near-field and higher SSS in the far-field.

Shoreline evolution in an embayed beach adjacent to tidal inlet: The impact of anthropogenic activities

Embayed beaches are widely distributed around the world. Their shoreline evolution is controlled primarily by the upstream headland and prevailing wave conditions. Tidal inlets are also ubiquitous in sandy coasts. They are quite dynamic and act as a sediment source or sink, depending on the sediment transport pattern and budget. An embayed beach may develop downstream of a tidal inlet if a protruding headland is formed at the inlet, owing to either natural processes or human construction. In this study, Gaolong Bay, located downstream of a tidal inlet (Qinglan Inlet) in Wenchang City, Hainan Island, China, is used as an example to examine the effects of an upstream tidal inlet on the evolution of an embayed beach. Emphasis is placed on the impact of anthropogenic activities, such as landfilling and jetty construction. Historical remote sensing data were collected, and the evolution of the shoreline from 1998 to 2018 was analyzed. The shoreline change pattern in Gaolong Bay was identified with the empirical orthogonal function (EOF) method, and the mechanisms behind these changes were explored with a coupled current–wave–sediment transport modeling system. Our results indicate that the construction of an artificial peninsula and a jetty beside the inlet channel dramatically changed the evolution of the Gaolong Bay shoreline. Defying the classical expectation of shoreline retreat downdrift of a tidal inlet, a clockwise shoreline rotation was prevalent in Gaolong Bay, with the shadow zone accreting and the distal zone retreating, along with an overall shoreline propagation (translation). The static equilibrium shoreline planform model (model of equilibrium of bay beaches [MEPBAY]) was further used to predict the future evolution of the shoreline. This study demonstrates that an embayed beach downdrift of a tidal inlet can exhibit a complex response to human interventions at the inlet and highlights the necessity of considering adjacent shoreline changes when assessing the impact of inlet stabilization.

Spatial distribution of water level impacting back-barrier bays

Abstract. Water level in semi-enclosed bays, landward of barrier islands, is mainly driven by offshore sea level fluctuations that are modulated by bay geometry and bathymetry, causing spatial variability in the ensuing response (transfer). Local wind setup can have a complementary role that depends on wind speed, fetch, and relative orientation of the wind direction and the bay. Bay area and inlet geometry and bathymetry primarily regulate the magnitude of the transfer between open ocean and bay. Tides and short-period offshore oscillations are more damped in the bays than longer-lasting offshore fluctuations, such as a storm surge and sea level rise. We compare observed and modeled water levels at stations in a mid-Atlantic bay (Barnegat Bay) with offshore water level proxies. Observed water levels in Barnegat Bay are compared and combined with model results from the Coupled Ocean–Atmosphere–Wave–Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system to evaluate the spatial structure of the water level transfer. Analytical models based on the dimensional characteristics of the bay are used to combine the observed data and the numerical model results in a physically consistent approach. Model water level transfers match observed values at locations inside the bay in the storm frequency band (transfers ranging from 50 %–100 %) and tidal frequencies (10 %–55 %). The contribution of frequency-dependent local setup caused by wind acting along the bay is also considered. The wind setup effect can be comparable in magnitude to the offshore transfer forcing during intense storms. The approach provides transfer estimates for locations inside the bay where observations were not available, resulting in a complete spatial characterization. An extension of the methodology that takes advantage of the ADCIRC tidal database for the east coast of the United States allows for the expansion of the approach to other bay systems. Detailed spatial estimates of water level transfer can inform decisions on inlet management and contribute to the assessment of current and future flooding hazard in back-barrier bays and along mainland shorelines.

Transport of riverine sediment from different outlets in the Pearl River Estuary during the wet season

Riverine sediment is important for the development of river deltas and for carrying both nutrients and contaminants into estuaries and coasts. Previous studies of sediment transport have focused on single-sourced estuaries and paid less attention to multi-sourced estuaries (estuaries with multiple river discharge sources). In this study, we used the Coupled Ocean Atmosphere Wave Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system to study the sediment transport in the Pearl River Estuary (PRE), where riverine sediments come from four different outlets. During a typical wet season (2007), about 6.8 million tons of riverine sediments were discharged into the PRE, most of which were trapped in shoals during neap tides, while about 11.8% by mass was transported out of the estuary during spring tides. The proportions of the multi-sourced sediments trapped in the PRE or escaping from the estuary depended on the morphology of the estuary and the location of the outlets in relation to the estuarine morphology. The distributions of different riverine sediments were mostly independent in neap tides but overlapped more in spring tides. The seaward sediment transport was dominated by river freshwater discharge in the upper estuary and by tidal forcing in the lower channels, while tides and winds controlled the sediment transport in the lower shoals. This study aids our understanding of sediment transport processes in multi-sourced estuaries and has implications for coastal environmental management.

Multi-Physics Ensemble versus Atmosphere–Ocean Coupled Model Simulations for a Tropical-Like Cyclone in the Mediterranean Sea

Between 19 and 22 January 2014, a baroclinic wave moving eastward from the Atlantic Ocean generated a cut-off low over the Strait of Gibraltar and was responsible for the subsequent intensification of an extra-tropical cyclone. This system exhibited tropical-like features in the following stages of its life cycle and remained active for approximately 80 h, moving along the Mediterranean Sea from west to east, eventually reaching the Adriatic Sea. Two different modeling approaches, which are comparable in terms of computational cost, are analyzed here to represent the cyclone evolution. First, a multi-physics ensemble using different microphysics and turbulence parameterization schemes available in the WRF (weather research and forecasting) model is employed. Second, the COAWST (coupled ocean–atmosphere wave sediment transport modeling system) suite, including WRF as an atmospheric model, ROMS (regional ocean modeling system) as an ocean model, and SWAN (simulating waves in nearshore) as a wave model, is used. The advantage of using a coupled modeling system is evaluated taking into account air–sea interaction processes at growing levels of complexity. First, a high-resolution sea surface temperature (SST) field, updated every 6 h, is used to force a WRF model stand-alone atmospheric simulation. Later, a two-way atmosphere–ocean coupled configuration is employed using COAWST, where SST is updated using consistent sea surface fluxes in the atmospheric and ocean models. Results show that a 1D ocean model is able to reproduce the evolution of the cyclone rather well, given a high-resolution initial SST field produced by ROMS after a long spin-up time. Additionally, coupled simulations reproduce more accurate (less intense) sea surface heat fluxes and a cyclone track and intensity, compared with a multi-physics ensemble of standalone atmospheric simulations.

Wave–current interactions in a wind-jet region

Abstract. Wave–current interactions (WCIs) are investigated. The study area is located at the northern margin of the Ebro shelf (northwestern Mediterranean Sea), where episodes of strong cross-shelf wind (wind jets) occur. The aim of this study is to validate the implemented coupled system and investigate the impact of WCIs on the hydrodynamics of a wind-jet region. The Coupled Ocean–Atmosphere–Wave–Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system, which uses the Regional Ocean Model System (ROMS) and Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) models, is used in a high-resolution domain (350 m). Results from uncoupled numerical models are compared with a two-way coupling simulation. The results do not show substantial differences in the water current field between the coupled and the uncoupled runs. The main effect observed when the models are coupled is in the water column stratification, due to the turbulent kinetic energy injection and the enhanced surface stress, leading to a larger mixed-layer depth. Regarding the effects on the wave fields, the comparison between the coupled and the uncoupled runs shows that, when the models are coupled, the agreement of the modeled wave period significantly improves and the wave energy (and thus the significant wave height) decreases when the current flows in the same direction as the waves propagate.

Wave–Current Interaction between Hurricane Matthew Wave Fields and the Gulf Stream

AbstractHurricanes interact with the Gulf Stream in the South Atlantic Bight (SAB) through a wide variety of processes, which are crucial to understand for prediction of open-ocean and coastal hazards during storms. However, it remains unclear how waves are modified by large-scale ocean currents under storm conditions, when waves are aligned with the storm-driven circulation and tightly coupled to the overlying wind field. Hurricane Matthew (2016) impacted the U.S. Southeast coast, causing extensive coastal change due to large waves and elevated water levels. The hurricane traveled on the continental shelf parallel to the SAB coastline, with the right side of the hurricane directly over the Gulf Stream. Using the Coupled Ocean–Atmosphere–Wave–Sediment Transport modeling system, we investigate wave–current interaction between Hurricane Matthew and the Gulf Stream. The model simulates ocean currents and waves over a grid encompassing the U.S. East Coast, with varied coupling of the hydrodynamic and wave components to isolate the effect of the currents on the waves, and the effect of the Gulf Stream relative to storm-driven circulation. The Gulf Stream modifies the direction of the storm-driven currents beneath the right side of the hurricane. Waves transitioned from following currents that result in wave lengthening, through negative current gradients that result in wave steepening and dissipation. Wave–current interaction over the Gulf Stream modified maximum coastal total water levels and changed incident wave directions at the coast by up to 20°, with strong implications for the morphodynamic response and stability of the coast to the hurricane.

Sediment Transport Model Including Short-Lived Radioisotopes: Model Description and Idealized Test Cases

Geochronologies derived from sediment cores in coastal locations are often used to infer event bed characteristics such as deposit thicknesses and accumulation rates. Such studies commonly use naturally occurring, short-lived radioisotopes, such as Beryllium-7 (7Be) and Thorium-234 (234Th), to study depositional and post-depositional processes. These radioisotope activities, however, are not generally represented in sediment transport models that characterize coastal flood and storm deposition with grain size patterns and deposit thicknesses. We modified the Community Sediment Transport Modeling System (CSTMS) to account for reactive tracers and used this capability to represent the behavior of these short-lived radioisotopes on the sediment bed. This paper describes the model and presents results from a set of idealized, one-dimensional (vertical) test cases. The model configuration represented fluvial deposition followed by periods of episodic storm resuspension. Sensitivity tests explored the influence on seabed radioisotope profiles by the intensities of bioturbation and wave resuspension and the thickness of fluvial deposits. The intensity of biodiffusion affected the persistence of fluvial event beds as evidenced by 7Be. Both resuspension and biodiffusion increased the modeled seabed inventory of 234Th. A thick fluvial deposit increased the seabed inventory of 7Be and 234Th but mixing over time greatly reduced the difference in inventory of 234Th in fluvial deposits of different thicknesses.

Cohesive and mixed sediment in the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS v3.6) implemented in the Coupled Ocean–Atmosphere–Wave–Sediment Transport Modeling System (COAWST r1234)

Abstract. We describe and demonstrate algorithms for treating cohesive and mixed sediment that have been added to the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS version 3.6), as implemented in the Coupled Ocean–Atmosphere–Wave–Sediment Transport Modeling System (COAWST Subversion repository revision 1234). These include the following: floc dynamics (aggregation and disaggregation in the water column); changes in floc characteristics in the seabed; erosion and deposition of cohesive and mixed (combination of cohesive and non-cohesive) sediment; and biodiffusive mixing of bed sediment. These routines supplement existing non-cohesive sediment modules, thereby increasing our ability to model fine-grained and mixed-sediment environments. Additionally, we describe changes to the sediment bed layering scheme that improve the fidelity of the modeled stratigraphic record. Finally, we provide examples of these modules implemented in idealized test cases and a realistic application.

Wave-current interaction during Typhoon Nuri (2008) and Hagupit (2008): an application of the coupled ocean-wave modeling system in the northern South China Sea

The northern South China Sea (SCS) is frequently affected by typhoons. During severe storm events, wave-current interactions produce storm surges causing enormous damage in the path of the typhoon. To evaluate the influence of wave-current interactions on storm surge, we used a coupled ocean-atmospherewave- sediment transport (COAWST) modeling system with radiation-stress and vortex-force formulations to simulate two typically intense tropical storms that invaded the SCS, namely Typhoons Nuri (2008) and Hagupit (2008), and compared results with observations from the Hong Kong Observatory. Both radiationstress and vortex-force formulations significantly improved the accuracy of the simulation. Depending on which typhoon and the topography encountered, the influence of surface waves on the oceanic circulation showed different characteristics, including the differences of range and intensity of storm surge between vortex-force and radiation-stress experiments. During typhoon landing, strong sea-surface elevation in concert with wave set-up/set-down caused the adjustment of the momentum balance. In the direction perpendicular to the current, but especially in the cross-shore direction, the pressure gradient and wave effects on the current dominated the momentum balance.

Effects of Wave–Current Interaction on Salt Intrusion During a Typhoon Event in a Highly Stratified Estuary

Wave–current interaction (WCI) is important in modulating hydrodynamics and water mixing in estuaries, and thereby the transport of water-borne materials. However, the effects of WCI on salt transport and salt intrusion in estuaries during storm events have been rarely examined. In the present study, we use a coupled atmosphere–ocean–wave–sediment transport (COAWST) modeling system to investigate the effects of WCI on salt intrusion in the highly stratified Modaomen Estuary during Typhoon Hagupit (2008). The model is validated by the measured wave, water elevation, and surface salinity data, and several diagnostic model experiments are conducted. WCI increases the storm surge by 0.8 m at the peak surge (25% of the total surge height). The wave-breaking-induced momentum flux and the Stokes drift increase the magnitude of the landward flow by 0.3 m s−1 (30% of the total landward flow). In addition, the waves increase water mixing by 2–4 times compared with that without waves. Hence, WCI significantly increases the landward advective salt transport and decreases the steady shear transport. The net effect of the WCI is a significant increase of salt import and salt intrusion during the typhoon event. However, in the aftermath of the storm, the imported salt water is rapidly flushed out by the increased river discharge, and the estuary regains its stratification within one day.