"Pure Hoosier":Fieldwork, Food Guides, and Cultural Distinction1 Danille Elise Christensen (bio) Joanne Raetz Stuttgen Cafe Indiana: A Guide to Indiana's Down-Home Cafes. Madison: University of Wisconsin Press, 2007. 288 pages. Joanne Raetz Stuttgen and Jolene Ketzenberger Cafe Indiana Cookbook. Madison: University of Wisconsin Press, 2010. 224 pages. The cover of Cafe Indiana, Joanne Raetz Stuttgen's 2007 guide to "Indiana's down-home cafes," features a photo of chrome stools bathed in early morning light while upended mugs await customers at the counter. The guide's companion publication, a cookbook, bears a cover dominated by a single serving of coconut cream pie—"the most popular pie in Hoosier cafes," according to Stuttgen (2010, 114). These images succinctly suggest the goals and foci of the linked volumes. Cafe Indiana is an impressive ethnographic endeavor: between 2004 and 2007, Stuttgen visited hundreds of Indiana cafes, and the counter was her preferred place to observe, interact with, and evaluate the people and food she happened upon. Cafe Indiana Cookbook, published three years later with co-author and food columnist Jolene Ketzenberger, incorporates some of the anecdotes and observations from the 2007 guide, but its focus is on teaching readers to prepare a discrete body of recipes. Both books are overtly evaluative: the first claims authority to distinguish authenticity and quality of experience, pointing readers to cafes that have met specific criteria. The second is more [End Page 97] subtle in its brokering: as in any collection, the cookbook directs its audience to read its contents as representative, but the cull pile—the stack of recipes not chosen for inclusion—is nowhere to be found. The two books are helpfully read together, then, since Cafe Indiana gives a sense of what Cafe Indiana Cookbook elides or enhances. As these accessible paperbacks call attention to good food, good stories, and good company, they also foster thinking about the nuts and bolts of fieldwork, modes of self-representation and heritage construction, and the consequences of bringing people and places to broader public notice. Cafe Indiana (2007) is modeled on Cafe Wisconsin (1993), a guide Stuttgen published while pursuing a PhD in Folklore from Indiana University. Updated and republished in 2004 by Terrace Books (the trade imprint of the University of Wisconsin Press), Cafe Wisconsin includes a preface that establishes Stuttgen's interest in traditional vernacular culture (i.e., those "things that maintain a familiar sameness despite change over time and across regions" [1993, 9]). The preface also reviews previous roadfood literature, outlines the author's procedures for selecting field sites and her criteria for recommending particular eateries, and previews the layout of the book, which is organized by intrastate regions. Cafe Indiana includes a version of this essay that is revised in its Hoosier-state particulars but consistent in focus and methods: for both projects, Stuttgen looked for cafes located in the original business districts of towns with fewer than 10,000 residents. Ideal cafes for her purposes were owner operated, demonstrated some level of historical continuity, and catered to a significantly local (and primarily daytime) clientele. In both Wisconsin and Indiana she began with 400 or so possible restaurants, but only about half the list made the next cut. In this second round of selection, Stuttgen favored cafes with primarily "home-cooked" food, clean yet idiosyncratic décor, and friendly staff and patrons; she stayed away from the "trendy," the mass-produced, and the aloof (i.e., staff or patrons who seemed begrudging or inarticulate; 2007, xiv, xvii; cf. Stuttgen 1993, 11-13). While in 1993 it was enough to say that she'd "concentrated entirely on traditional cafes hiding in small towns off the beaten path" (11), by the time Stuttgen explored Indiana eateries she needed to distinguish her work from several recently published guides to that state's 'Main Street' diners (e.g., Duffy [2001] 2006; Trogdon 2001). Consequently, in Cafe Indiana she emphasizes her "deep focus on Hoosier food traditions and the varied roles cafes fill in the lives of individuals [End Page 98] and communities" (2007, xiv). Indeed, Stuttgen attends to the taste, texture, and preparation of food served, but she also comments on the décor...
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