Textile School Research Articles

Morphology and mythology of Leningrad textiles

The article is devoted to the Leningrad artistic textiles, created in the 1960s–1990s. It is well known, that tapestry was actively developing during this period, however, this article discusses both original and industrial designs, which were represented by printed and shaft weaving fabrics, and textile haberdashery. Unique and industrial textiles have evolved with varying degrees of intensity, while fabrics and scarves remain the least explored area of design practice. In most cases, patterns for scarves had a souvenir design. The author gives data on the main industrial enterprises which produced them, points to the inseparable connection with the Leningrad school of textiles, which was based at the department of textiles at the Vera Mukhina Leningrad Higher School of Industrial Art. Emphasis is placed on the fact that the development of tapestry in the Leningrad school of textiles became possible after the opening of internships in Czechoslovakia, Hungary, and Latvia. The experience of learning about modern European tapestry formed two main trends in Leningrad: traditional and relief-plastic. In each of them were created outstanding works. This article provides information about tapestries and curtains made in the Leningrad Decorative and Applied Arts Factory and Research Experimental Workshops. The scale and high quality of the works are noted, the prominent artists who worked by the «order of the state» (goszakaz) are listed.

Emergence and development of the Kyiv school of artistic textiles in the XX century

The article provides a thorough overview of the evolutionary process of the emergence, establishment, and development of the Kyiv school of artistic textiles. It reveals the influence of various factors (ideological, political, economic, and aesthetic) on this process. The historical and factual method allowed us to study socio-economic, as well as historical and cultural factors that contributed to the emergence, establishment, and development of the Kyiv textile school in a chronological sequence. Both separate Kyiv textile artists’ works and the differences of other schools were analyzed by the comparative method. It is established that the very fact of emergence of the Kyiv school of artistic textile, as a community of style, unity of forms, preservation, and continuity of traditions, had unbiased backgrounds since Ukrainian decorative weaving, a part of which is Kyiv weaving, inherited the abundant artistic traditions that were created over the centuries and most vividly manifested through the art of Kyivan Rus. It showed the significance of Kyiv as a major administrative and cultural center of Ukraine in the emergence and development of the textile school. The status of the capital city was the reason why prominent artistic forces concentrated there, creating several outstanding textile artworks intended for various purposes during the 1920–1990s. The ideology of the ruling Communist Party of the Soviet Union, which ordered the artworks for its glorification, had a stimulating impact on the emergence of the school. Analysis of the data allowed us to periodize the stages of emergence and development of the Kyiv school of artistic textiles as an educational institution. Typical features of the Kyiv textile school at different stages of its development in 1920–1990s are as follows: a) The presence of a plot theme, the epic breadth of the depicted scene, and the scale in monumental and decorative textiles; b) The stylization of themes, their conventional interpretation, and two-dimensional images that suggest the absence of perspective and the illusory representation of three-dimensional forms in decorative (non-figurative) large tapestries and decorative stage curtains made in various techniques; c) The preservation of established iconographic compositions created by predecessors, but performed in a new (stylistic and coloristic) interpretation in traditional textiles; d) As for the industrial textiles, the presence of two trends in the artistic design of fabrics: The first is associated with the artists’ focusing on the entire spectrum of the world (primarily European) textile fashion; The second one involves the transformation of traditional popular graphic themes in fundamentally new compositional developments.

PREFACE

PREFACE

Formation and Development of the Kyiv School of Art Textiles: Traditions and Innovations

The purpose of the article is to outline – based on analyzing the development of the Kyiv School of Decorative Arts in context of the historical and artistic process of the XXth to XXIst centuries – the main principles of specialization Art Textiles on the ground of the Mykhaylo Boychuk Kyiv State Academy of Decorative and Applied Arts and Design. The methodology consists of applying an art history approach to historical and artistic analyses of works of artistic textiles, as well as the systematic consideration of peculiarities of the Kyiv School of Decorative Arts. The scientific novelty lies in the substantiation of a phenomenon of the Kyiv School of Art Textiles, creative-pedagogical and scientific-methodological means in teaching students, themes of diploma theses as an important component in preserving ethnic memory, and national-cultural identity. Conclusions. The results of the study highlight the features of the artistic language of the Kyiv School of Textiles, the specifics of scientific and pedagogical methods used in the Academy, as well as the creative guidelines of the teaching staff. Defined are prospective trends of development and strengthening of the Department of Art Textiles and Costume Modelling, principles of comprehending the conventional art and its transformation into the newest stylistic forms to meet today’s requirements. The scientific research gives an idea of ​​the current state of decorative art and artistic textiles, and the creative contribution of the scientific and pedagogical staff of the ATCM Department in the context of the integration of Ukrainian art into the European cultural space.

Preface

The 2020 Sustainability Innovation & Fashion Technology International Conference (SIFTIC 2020) was successfully held in Shanghai University of Engineering Science, China on October 15-17, 2020. Due to the COVID-19 prevention and control and travel restrictions, the conference also provided the form of online conference via online collaboration tool Zoom. SIFTIC 2020 aimed to provide a flexible platform for experts and scholars in the field of Textile Engineering, Textile Chemistry and Dyeing and Finishing Engineering, Fashion Engineering, Fashion Marketing Management, Fashion Art Design to disseminate the latest research achievements and advanced technologies, as well as to promote the cooperation between each other.SIFTIC 2020 is hosted by China Textile Engineering Society (CTES) and Shanghai University of Engineering Science (SUES), organized by Sino-British Joint Lab for Smart Sportswear of SUES and Shanghai Engineering Research Center of Textile Chemistry and Cleaner Production, co-organized by Liverpool John Moores University (LJMU), Shanghai International Fashion Innovation Center (SIFIC), Industry-Education Alliance of Fashion Sustainability (IEAFS), Shanghai Institute of Visual Arts (SIVA).On October 16, the opening ceremony of the conference was presided over by Prof. Jiping Wang, director of the academic committee of the School of Textiles and Fashion, Shanghai University of Engineering Science, China. Afterwards, Ms. Kerry M. King, President of American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), Mr. Ruizhe Sun, Board chairman of China Textile Engineering Society (CTES) and Prof. Jianyong Yu, Academician, Chinese Academy of Engineering (ACE), President of Donghua University made opening speeches for the conference. Andthen, Prof. Yao Xiuping, vice president of Shanghai University of Engineering Science, announced the formal opening of the conference. During the conference, the conference model was divided into three sessions, including keynote speeches, oral presentations and online Q&A discussion.List of Conference Committees are available in this pdf.

Sustainable Textile School Goes to the World Textile Forum in Zürich

Sustainable Textile School Goes to the World Textile Forum in Zürich

Rivne Artistic Textile School : formation, evolution, personalities

Background. Since the 1960s Ukrainian artistic textile has been researched by S.Sydorovych, A.Zhuk, Ya.Zapasko, Z.Chehuseva, T.Pecheniuk, H.Kusko, Ye.Shymchuk, Z.Shulha, D.Bobiak, O.Yamborko, O.Nykorak, T.Lupii, O.Lukovska, O.Moisiuk studied regional features of folk weaving in history aspect. The fifth volume of The History of Ukrainian ornamental art published by M. T. Rylsky Institute of Art, Folklore Studies and Ethnology Institute of National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine is the important fundamental study where the researched issues are considered (2016). This volume presents the contribution of Rivne and Lviv artists Marta Tokar, Ivanna Tokar, Tetiana Lukashevych, and Olena Okhrymyk in general features. Separate aspects of Rivne artists’ creative work and school development are considered by A.Nikolaieva, N.Kosmolinska, O.Stashuk, I.Tokar etc. In modern times the complex research of Rivne art textile establishment and the issues of school development have not been presented that proves the importance of this paper. This study aims to outline social and cultural preconditions and features of Rivne Artistic Textile School establishment, give a short characteristic of its outstanding people creative work, and determine basic issues and ways of the development. The methodology is based on the complex approach including cultural, structural analysis and art study interpretation. This has provided the possibility using a system way to consider Rivne cloth art of the last decades as a complete art phenomenon. The scientific novelty concerns with regional characteristics of Rivne modern textile art. Results. Since last decades artistic textile having huge variety of its presentation has been becoming the field for new esthetic research and new point of view according to the surrounding on Rivne artistic map. This traditional ornamental branch is getting closer to pictorial art and in perfect manifestations it can even pretend to research modern social and human being conditions. The implementation and function of vocational art education were the important motivation to develop Rivne region artistic textile despite of weak institutional support especially in recent years. This paper studies beginnings and current issues of Rivne Cloth Art School becoming. New artistic senses are polished in the process of democratic competition through craftswomen creative ideas of different generations. This fact demonstrates the formation of Rivne Artistic Textile School. It is textile that is presented at international exhibitions among other kinds of arts including contribution of younger generation craftswomen. Simultaneously the author points out the issue of weak institutionalization of Ukrainian modern art on the local level. First of all it is revealed on the level of artifacts museification as the representation issue becomes the main one in the modern world. According to Rivne regional textile art the issue of centralized accumulation absence of modern works kept in artists’ studios is the most important one. This makes art utterances function more complicated for its research and interpretation. Artistic textile vocational school cooperation with Rivne Linen Factory (that existed till the 1990s) has interesting potential possibilities under the conditions of factors appearance that would let reanimate it or develop a new one. The author states that it can be the development of flax culture in Ukraine, expanding of enterprise ranges and other strategic structural initiatives. Conclusions. Rivne Artistic Textile School became the original branch of Lviv Arts and Crafts School. Focusing on regional folk weaving traditions Rivne modern craftswomen developed a new and unique artistic phenomenon characterized by the variety of its expressions in the semantic content and shape-created aspect. Rivne art-space analysis through the decentralization of artistic processes demonstrates that the leading role definitely belongs to art fabric in this process. Moreover this trend is powerful enough and artistic textile is a counterweight factor to the traditional painting centrism of Ukrainian art (including art-market). The next stage of the research aims to highlight imaginary system of separate art personalities. The study can be interpreted in such interdisciplinary aspects as cultural analysis, methodological points etc.

Conference Review

Abstract Everything and Everybody as Material: Beyond Fashion Design Methods, The Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås, Borås, Sweden, 7–9 June 2017

New Reviews Editor

On behalf of the SDC's Publications Committee and Coloration Technology's Editorial Panel, I am delighted to announce the appointment of Professor Robert Christie as the journal's Reviews Editor. Bob will be working alongside myself and Editor-in-Chief, Andrew Towns, to commission review articles that provide an in-depth discussion of the current status of a particular field related to colorants and coloration. Bob obtained his BSc and PhD degrees from the University of St Andrews, which were followed by postdoctoral positions at the Australian National University and the University of Aberdeen. His subsequent career has included periods in industrial research with two international colour manufacturers, Ciba Specialty Chemicals (now BASF) and Dominion Colour Corporation. Bob is currently at the School of Textiles & Design, Heriot-Watt University, based on its Scottish Borders Campus in Galashiels. Since joining the School in 1980, Bob's main research interests have been in the chemistry and application of dyes and pigments and, more recently, in their use at the textile design interface. Bob is an acknowledged leading international authority on the chemistry of organic pigments, and has collaborated with many manufacturers worldwide over a period of many years. Throughout his career, Bob has encountered most of the traditional uses of colour in addition to some more unusual applications. His research has made many important contributions to the development of speciality dye types, particularly fluorescent dyes, colour change materials and hair dyes. He has also been active in the field of textiles, being involved in the technology of digital inkjet printing and in addressing specific environmental issues associated with dyes and pigments. Through his development of a Colour, Light and Interaction Research Group at Heriot-Watt University, Bob collaborates with design researchers who seek his expertise in the application of photochromic and thermochromic dye technology to textiles and related substrates. Bob has been a member of the Coloration Technology Editorial Panel since its inception in 1999. He has authored many articles published within SDC journals, including two recent series on the coloration of textiles with photochromic dyes, as well as reviews on pigments and fluorescent dyes. Coloration Technology review articles tend to be in the region of 5000–8000 words, excluding references. Recently published articles have covered such diverse topics as: the coloration and application of pH-sensitive dyes on textiles, the quality of light sources, synthesis and applications of styryl dyes, therapeutic applications of near-infrared dyes, and photorealistic ink-jet digital printing. If you are interested in writing a review article for Coloration Technology, please contact us with a synopsis at [email protected]. In addition to original articles, we are also interested in updates on previously published topics that have undergone recent developments. For inspiration, a Virtual Issue consisting of a selection of articles taken from the last few years can be viewed via the journal's homepage, http://wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/colorationtechnology.

Customer Perspective on Mass-customized Knitwear

Knit on Demand is a research project at the Swedish School of Textiles in collaboration with the knitwear producer Ivanhoe AB and the fashion retailer SOMconcept. The background to the project is the unpredictable fashion market where garments are often produced on a forecast and not on actual demand. The essence of Knit on Demand is to let the customers themselves design the garments. Sales started in SOMconcept's store in PUB Huset, Stockholm, in September 2009 and ended in December 2010. The aim of this article is to find out what factors are crucial in the customer's experience of buying a mass-customized garment. By interviewing customers about the customization process, analyzing customer orders, and observing the customization process conclusions can be drawn.

Demo hour

These projects were curated by two instructors at the Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås, Linda Worbin (textile design) and Clemens Thornquist (fashion design). All four projects were presented at Ambience'11, an international conference held at the University of Borås focusing on the intersection and interfaces between technology, art, and design as expressed in digital architecture, interaction design, new media art, and smart textiles.

FLAT KNITTING OF A LIGHT EMITTING TEXTILE WITH OPTICAL FIBRES

Abstract Knitted products have a flexibility that offers many attractive possibilities. Combined with technical fibres, this gives interesting and innovative possibilities. Many technical fibres and yarns has however properties such as high stiffness and brittleness which are difficult to process in the practice of weft knitting. This paper is about the experimental product development of a light radiating textile lamp in which optical fibres are used as the only illumination source. The lampshade is produced on an electronic flat knitting machine with special equipment suitable for the feeding of yarn with high stiffness. The work was divided in two parts: exploring the possibilities to knit the desired shape on one hand and experimenting about knitting with optical fibres as a weft insertion on the other hand. The method is an inductive approach; a literature survey, information from suppliers of knitting production equipment and experimental work on a flat knitting machine at The Swedish School of Textiles, Boras, Sweden. Results show that the diamond shaped structure can be knitted in one piece with transparent monofilament yarns. Furthermore it also shows that difficulties occur when knitting with stiff and brittle optical fibres therefore the paper ends with a discussion with suggestions of how to overcome these challenges.

624 Isolation of muscle derived stem cells from rat and its smooth muscle differentiation

Ji Hye Hwang, Soon Hong Yuk, Jin Ho Lee, Won Suk Lyoo, Sung-Ho Ghil, Sang Sub Lee, In Gu Khang, Soon Young Paik*, and Ji Youl Lee* Department of Microbiology, The Catholic University of Korea, Seoul 137-701, Korea; 1 Department of Physical Medicine and Rehabilitation, School of Medicine, Sungkyunkwan University, Suwon 440-749, Korea; 2 Department of Polymer Science and Engineering, Hannam University, Daejeon 306-791, Korea; 3 School of Textiles, Yeungnam University, Gyeongsan 712-749, Korea; 4 Department of Biology, Kyonggi University, Suwon 442-760, Korea; Department of Urology, The Catholic University of Korea, Seoul 137-701, Korea.

Review of Cotton Dust Control Technology Studies at North Carolina State University: Cultural, Genetic, and Ginning Variations

Studies of cotton dust control technology were initiated at the School of Textiles at North Carolina State University in 1973 using an especially designed model cardroom.1 These investigations have focused on, among other things, the effectiveness of innovative cleaning and opening devices developed for use in cotton textile plants, as well as the use of steaming and cleaning systems at the gin so as to reduce dust emission during carding.1,2 Also examined have been the influence of cotton cultural factors, such as geographic and temporal effects, harvesting technologies, and genetic variants.

Book Reviews : The Economics, Science and Technology of Yarn Production. Peter R. Lord. The book is available from the author: School of Textiles, North Carolina State University, Raleigh, N. C. 27650. 616 pages. $20 plus postage

Book Reviews : The Economics, Science and Technology of Yarn Production. Peter R. Lord. The book is available from the author: School of Textiles, North Carolina State University, Raleigh, N. C. 27650. 616 pages. $20 plus postage

Characterization of Cotton Dust by Elemental Analysis

Cotton dust has been identified as one of five common substances present in the workplace that a r e significant health hazards to industrial workers . The material reported here is part of a larger program being conducted by the School of Textiles to identify the etiological agent(s) causing byssinosis and to characterize the dust associated with cotton processing (1-3). The early results quickly verified that there are large amounts of both soluble and insoluble inorganic matterin cotton dusts.Electron diffraction patterns were obtained from dust samples collected directly on carbon-coated grids from the air and from -water dispersed samples collected by a filtration system located in a model cotton card room (4). Identification of these diffraction patterns has not yet been completed because our attention has now focused on examining the water extractable components of cotton dusts with a newly acquired EDS-SEM system.

The color of absorbing scattering substrates. II. The prediction of the color of a fiber bundle

Journal of Polymer Science: Polymer Letters EditionVolume 11, Issue 11 p. 701-704 Article The color of absorbing scattering substrates. II. The prediction of the color of a fiber bundle† G. Goldfinger, G. Goldfinger School of Textiles, N. C. State University at RaleighSearch for more papers by this authorLyn Stafford, Lyn Stafford School of Textiles, N. C. State University at RaleighSearch for more papers by this author G. Goldfinger, G. Goldfinger School of Textiles, N. C. State University at RaleighSearch for more papers by this authorLyn Stafford, Lyn Stafford School of Textiles, N. C. State University at RaleighSearch for more papers by this author First published: November 1973 https://doi.org/10.1002/pol.1973.130111107Citations: 3 † This paper contains some of the results obtained by Lyn Stafford in fulfillment of the requirement of the course TC 490. AboutPDF ToolsRequest permissionExport citationAdd to favoritesTrack citation ShareShare Give accessShare full text accessShare full-text accessPlease review our Terms and Conditions of Use and check box below to share full-text version of article.I have read and accept the Wiley Online Library Terms and Conditions of UseShareable LinkUse the link below to share a full-text version of this article with your friends and colleagues. Learn more.Copy URL Share a linkShare onFacebookTwitterLinked InRedditWechat Citing Literature Volume11, Issue11November 1973Pages 701-704 RelatedInformation

The color of absorbing scattering substrates. I. The color of fabrics

Journal of Applied Polymer ScienceVolume 17, Issue 6 p. 1985-1985 ErrataFree Access The color of absorbing scattering substrates. I. The color of fabrics E. Hope Allen, E. Hope Allen North Carolina State University at Raleigh School of Textiles, Raleigh, North Carolina 27607Search for more papers by this authorG. Goldfinger, G. Goldfinger North Carolina State University at Raleigh School of Textiles, Raleigh, North Carolina 27607Search for more papers by this author E. Hope Allen, E. Hope Allen North Carolina State University at Raleigh School of Textiles, Raleigh, North Carolina 27607Search for more papers by this authorG. Goldfinger, G. Goldfinger North Carolina State University at Raleigh School of Textiles, Raleigh, North Carolina 27607Search for more papers by this author First published: June 1973 https://doi.org/10.1002/app.1973.070170631AboutPDF ToolsRequest permissionExport citationAdd to favoritesTrack citation ShareShare Give accessShare full text accessShare full-text accessPlease review our Terms and Conditions of Use and check box below to share full-text version of article.I have read and accept the Wiley Online Library Terms and Conditions of UseShareable LinkUse the link below to share a full-text version of this article with your friends and colleagues. Learn more.Copy URL Share a linkShare onFacebookTwitterLinkedInRedditWechat No abstract is available for this article. Volume17, Issue6June 1973Pages 1985-1985 RelatedInformation

The effect of ringdyeing on the color of fibers

Journal of Applied Polymer ScienceVolume 17, Issue 5 p. 1627-1629 NoteFree Access The effect of ringdyeing on the color of fibers E. Hope Allen, E. Hope Allen School of Textiles N. C. State University at Raleigh Raleigh, North Carolina 27607Search for more papers by this authorG. Goldfinger, G. Goldfinger School of Textiles N. C. State University at Raleigh Raleigh, North Carolina 27607Search for more papers by this author E. Hope Allen, E. Hope Allen School of Textiles N. C. State University at Raleigh Raleigh, North Carolina 27607Search for more papers by this authorG. Goldfinger, G. Goldfinger School of Textiles N. C. State University at Raleigh Raleigh, North Carolina 27607Search for more papers by this author First published: May 1973 https://doi.org/10.1002/app.1973.070170527Citations: 18AboutPDF ToolsRequest permissionExport citationAdd to favoritesTrack citation ShareShare Give accessShare full text accessShare full-text accessPlease review our Terms and Conditions of Use and check box below to share full-text version of article.I have read and accept the Wiley Online Library Terms and Conditions of UseShareable LinkUse the link below to share a full-text version of this article with your friends and colleagues. Learn more.Copy URL References 1 E. H. Allen and G. Goldfinger, J. Appl. Polym. Sci., 16, 2973 (1972). 2 D. A. Garrett and R. H. Peters, J. Textile Inst. T., 47, 166 (1956). 3 E. Atherton, J. Soc. Dyers Colour., 71, 389 (1955). Citing Literature Volume17, Issue5May 1973Pages 1627-1629 ReferencesRelatedInformation

Progress Reports on Use and Application of the Nepotometer: Some Factors that Affect Test Results 1

The Nepotometer is in many respects a miniature card designed to simulate on laboratory samples of cotton the effects of actions encountered during the carding opera tion which are largely responsible for nep formation. It was developed at the North Carolina State College School of Textiles. under a contract with the U. S. Department of Agriculture, to predict the nepping potential of cottons. The use of a standard-weight test specimen does not necessarily produce a standard weight web. There may be considerable differences in this respect among different cot tons. For each of eight cottons tested, the web weight and log of neps per grain increased with increase in specimen weight in the region tested between 17.5 and 27.5 grains in clusive, the increases being linear with no indication of curvilinearity. Since evaluations are based on comparison of the webs with appearance standards, the production of a constant weight web in the test is believed to be necessary. The possibility of controlling web weight by consideration of some readily determined property such as Micronaire reading or Fibrograph upper half mean length, or a combination of these, appears promising. Two simple equations have been derived for determining the specimen weight to use for a fixed web weight—one based on Micronaire reading and the other on upper half mean length. Good correlation was found between the log of neps per grain and the photographic standards when the web weights were approximately constant. The regression curve above Grade 1 was essentially a straight line. Neppiness stindards following a regular progression can be obtained from the present photographic grades by adding another grade between the present Grades 1 and 2.