Sandbar Migration Research Articles

Long-Term Field Observation on Sand Bar Migration near Tedori River Mouth, Japan

Long-Term Field Observation on Sand Bar Migration near Tedori River Mouth, Japan

Alongshore variability in berm and sandbar migration patterns on a highly dynamic beach

Sediment exchange between the shoreface and the foreshore is investigated through the analysis of sandbar and berm migration cycles at La Misión beach in Baja California, Mexico. In general, nearshore sandbars migrate onshore during low-energy wave conditions merging with the shoreline to become intertidal sandbars that later contribute to berm rebuilding. However, significant alongshore differences were observed in the sandbar welding and berm rebuilding process, which can be attributed to alongshore wave skewness and near-surfzone flow variations. The analysis of topographic and bathymetric surveys collected monthly over a 5-year period revealed larger shoreline retreat and longer recovery times in the southern beach compared to the north. This was related to the inability of sandbars to weld to the intertidal beach during spring and summer, occurring only during extended periods of low-energy waves. In the southern beach, the berm formation process exhibited less dependence on incoming wave energy, persisting during mild-energy winters, and reforming in the presence of sandbars. Hydrodynamic measurements indicated that the southern part of the beach experienced relatively more intense net offshore flows (up to −0.2 ms−1) due to undertow, and possibly related to the presence of persistent rip currents. In contrast, the berm in the northern beach followed a seasonal erosion and rebuilding process associated with sandbar migrations driven by variations in incoming wave energy and cross-shore sediment transport. This was characterized by larger near-bed wave velocity skewness compared to the south. Net flows in the north were predominantly onshore, reaching up to 0.1 ms−1 during lower-energy periods with oblique wave incidence. This study reveals the presence of considerably distinct sandbar and berm migration cycles along a relatively short beach of 2.2 km long. It also highlights how such variability can be related to the morphodynamic feedback with sandbars affecting hydrodynamics, particularly near-bed wave skewness and near-surfzone flow variations, which in turn influence sediment transport and morphological evolution.

MONITORING OF THE COASTAL DYNAMICS ON THE SAND SPIT AT TORTUGUEROS BEACH, MEXICO

Sand spits occur worldwide in different shapes, from a single, relatively simple arc to an irregular, crenulated, and complex barrier. Cross-shore and longshore sediment transport often influence spit dynamics (Nagarajan et al., 2015), strongly linked to wave energy and sediment supply. The present analysis focuses on a dynamic and complex spit at Tortugueros beach, a re-entrant bay, 1 km in length, on the Gulf of Mexico. Tortugueros beach is a wave-dominated beach with very fine to fine sand that forms a fairly gentle sloping beach profile. The sediment sources are longshore sediment transport and onshore sandbar migration, while sediment loss is due to long- and cross shore (during storms) transport. The region is micro-tidal, with mean and maximum high tide levels of 0.18 m and 0.92 m above the mean sea level. Given the high dynamics of the Tortugueros beach spit system and the lack of data measured on the beach, a monitoring system was developed to collect field data regularly to help us improve the understanding of the functioning of the coast on this beach, and the international knowledge related to the formation and morphological evolution of this type of spits in other similar beaches around the world.

The physical processes of sandy beach evolution under storm and non-storm wave conditions simulated in wave flume

Large waves and high water levels generated by coastal storms are predominant drivers for coastal beach erosion. This experimental study is undertaken to investigate the physical processes of beach profile evolution under storm waves by simulating step varying storm waves and variable water levels in a wave flume of 30 m long, 0.6 m wide and 1 m high and mild beach slope tanθ=1/10. The storm waves were simulated by following a conceptual storm hydrograph of three stages: at the first stage of 60 min both wave height and water level were gradually increased to peak storm wave height and water level, at the second stage of 60 min both maximum wave height and water level were kept for constant, and at the last stage of 60 min storm wave heights were gradually decreased to non-storm waves and water levels. Non-intrusive high-resolution cameras were used to record time-series of free surface water elevation, wave breaking point position, sandbar migration and location, and beach elevation profile in a spatial resolution of 1.4 mm and a temporal resolution of 0.1 s. In analyzing the collected experimental data, the physical processes of beach evolution under both non-storm and storm waves were found significantly different: under non-storm waves, the movement of sandbar always was found to be in the seaward direction, and the beach profile was eroded and accreted before and after the sandbar, respectively, but under storm waves, the sandbar location was found to migrate in either the landward or seaward direction, the beach profile was slowly accreted before the sandbar and eroded after the sandbar when the storm waves were gradually decreased to the non-storm waves. The surf zone is the main change area in beach morphology modification, and the sandbar is the important indicator for distinguishing the cross-shore sediment exchange. Under both non-storm and storm waves, large waves, high water levels, and especially great gradient of wave energy flux due to changes in wave height, period and water depth are the main factors controlling the formation and migration of sandbar, and resulting in beach erosion and accretion before and after the wave breaking point, respectively.

Development, calibration and validation of a phase-averaged model for cross-shore sediment transport and morphodynamics on a barred beach

Simulating cross-shore sediment transport and associated sandbar migration is still a challenging task for phase-averaged coastal morphological models. Numerical studies have mostly relied on beach morphology prediction for calibration and validation, without examining in much detail the underlying hydrodynamics, sediment concentrations and transport rates. This paper reports on a new three-dimensional coastal morphodynamic model based on the hydrodynamic model of Zheng et al. (2017), combined with an advection-diffusion type suspended sediment transport model and the extended SANTOSS near-bed sediment transport formula of Van der A et al. (2013), to represent the key cross-shore transport mechanisms. The model is are calibrated based on comprehensive measurements from a large-scale laboratory experiment involving regular plunging breaking waves over an evolving sandbar, covering detailed comparisons on hydrodynamics, sediment suspension, transport rates, and bed level evolution. Separate validation using large scale wave flume experiments were also conducted to confirm the model's performance on different conditions. Good agreements are obtained between measurements and model results, which demonstrates the model's ability to reproduce cross-shore sediment transport processes under breaking waves correctly, given that the appropriate parameterizations for intra-wave processes are included. Model results also reveal the onshore near-bed transport is related to wave-induced near-bed streaming, wave skewness and asymmetry, and bed slope effects at different locations across the beach surface. Wave breaking-induced turbulence enhances the near-bed transport within the bed boundary layer which needs to be taken into account in order to achieve good model prediction skills.

Uncertainty in Nearshore Sand Bar Migration

AbstractA coupled nearshore hydrodynamics and sediment transport model with adjoint‐based uncertainty quantification has been applied to sand bar morphodynamics in the Duck94 field experiment (Duck, NC). The model, which is based on previously established physical process formulas, is capable of producing accurate predictions of sand bar migration during the experiment. However, reasonable perturbations to the model inputs—namely initial conditions, boundary conditions, and calibration coefficients—can produce a range of model predictions. This range is taken to represent the potential for uncertainty of the model, for scenarios where one or more model inputs are poorly constrained. Experiments are presented that quantify the relative impact of different input types on uncertainty, and the results are contrasted for accretive versus erosive wave conditions. During accretive conditions (shoreward bar migration), uncertainty is dominated by the growth of errors in initial conditions, owing to positive feedbacks in the model. In contrast, during erosive conditions (seaward bar migration), there is a smaller impact of errors in initial conditions, and uncertainty is instead dominated by errors in sediment transport coefficients. The results thus point to qualitative differences in the nature of nearshore morphodynamic uncertainty under different wave conditions, with a greater role of internal error growth (positive feedbacks) during accretive conditions and errors in model physics being more important during erosive conditions.

Effects of Wave Height, Period and Sea Level on Barred Beach Profile Evolution: Revisiting the Roller Slope in a Beach Morphodynamic Model

Sandbars are commonly observed on sandy coasts, and they can prevent erosion on the beach face. Better prediction of sandbar evolution is necessary for coastal management and beach nourishment. In this study, a process-based morphodynamic model is used to reproduce the barred beach profile evolution in the Duck94 field experiments. The importance of the wave roller slope parameter in the model is revisited. Six idealized numerical experiments are set to investigate the effect of wave heights, wave periods and sea levels on sandbar migrations. By implementing two recent cross-shore varying roller slope formulas, the models achieved fair-to-good performances. It was found that the variations of sandbar morphological evolution are mainly controlled by the cross-shore varying roller slope. An increase in the wave height or a decrease in the wave period would lead to a more rapid and further-offshore migration of the sandbar. When the sea level variations are much smaller than the water depth over the sandbar, the effect of sea level changes on the sandbar migration is negligible, though a lower sea level would cause more erosion on the beach face.

The Impact of Inherited Morphology on Sandbar Migration During Mild Wave Seasons

AbstractSandbars are ubiquitous morphologic features found in the nearshore environment throughout the world, yet predictive capabilities of their evolution remain limited. In order to provide new insights on the relevant processes controlling sandbar morphodynamics, this study uses a 41‐year record of 637 monthly cross‐shore profiles from Duck, North Carolina, USA, to derive complex empirical orthogonal functions representative of the two dominant modes of sandbar migrations: offshore and onshore propagation. Interference of these two modes produces commonly observed sandbar states. While mild wave energies are traditionally assumed to drive onshore sandbar migration, the offshore mode is repeatedly seen to dominate sandbar migration in mild wave seasons following anomalously high late‐winter wave energy and when the inherited morphology is composed of a single bar or terrace, as opposed to a more common two‐bar state. A data‐derived conceptual model is presented synthesizing the effect of antecedent morphology and wave climate chronology on interannual trends in net offshore sandbar migration.

Adaptation of the SANTOSS transport formula for 3D nearshore models: Application to cross-shore sandbar migration

The ability to model bar migration in the nearshore zone is critically important for predicting coastal morphology. We present a cost-effective wave-averaged 3D model (CROCO) with parameterization of wave-related bedload transport (adapted SANTOSS), and evaluate/calibrate its performance in comparison with data measured in a two-dimensional wave channel. In this model, suspended-load transport (both in and above the wave bottom boundary layer) is resolved by the flow model. We assume that if the tuning parameters are not robust to varying forcing conditions, the parameterization can be considered a failure. The present work is therefore a first step towards a numerical model capable of predicting the onshore and offshore migration of a sandbar under storm and post-storm conditions using the same set of parameters. One way to achieve this goal is to treat the effects of waves and currents in separate formulations to avoid conflicts and redundancy. We show that the implementation and adaptation of SANTOSS in CROCO can achieve this goal, provided that the hydrodynamics are accurately reproduced and the separation between the wave-related bedload and current-related suspended load formulations is respected.

A new process-based, wave-resolving, 2DH circulation model for the evolution of natural sand bars: The role of nearbed dynamics and suspended sediment transport

We study the migration of natural sand bars that evolve in the nearshore by means of a new process-based wave-resolving, 2DH circulation model. In order to perform reliable and accurate computations, the robust Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations (NSWEs) hydro-morphodynamic solver of Brocchini et al. (2001) and Postacchini et al. (2012) implements a detailed description of the Bottom Boundary Layer (BBL) dynamics and a new predictor for the Suspended Sediment Transport (SST) based on the solution of a Depth-Averaged Advection-Diffusion Equation (DAADE) for the sediment concentration. The robustness and accuracy of the enhanced model are validated against literature theoretical, experimental, and numerical results, all comparisons highlighting good performances and clarifying the role of both BBL and SST contributions, the former one having a larger positive influence than the latter one on the results. Both original and enhanced models are, then, used to predict the evolution of the sand bar system that characterizes the nearshore of Senigallia (AN). The analysis leverages the field observations collected at such a site by means of the Sena Gallica Speculator video-monitoring system. Modeling of the storm-forced sand bar migration patterns reveals that: 1) the enhanced model can adequately reproduce the seaward migration of the sand bars of the system; 2) the process of shoreline retreat in coincidence with the generation of a new-born bar is well described; 3) inclusion of the BBL improves quantitative prediction of the bar crest migration; 4) the SST, beyond improving the prediction of the bar crest location, induces some smoothing of the bar profile, in line with the literature findings of SST being a stabilizing factor for the bar emergence. • Sand bar evolution in the nearshore zone is modeled using a process-based 2DH wave resolving NSWE model. • The model includes BBL dynamics and predicts the SST based on the depth-averaged advection-diffusion equation. • The model is validated against theoretical, experimental, and numerical results. • The model is used to predict the sandbar migration in the nearshore of Senigallia (AN) during a storm. • The developed model can accurately reproduce the sandbar evolution in both field and laboratory conditions.

Numerical test of scale relations for modelling coastal sandbar migration and inspiration to physical model design

Numerical test of scale relations for modelling coastal sandbar migration and inspiration to physical model design

Surfzone bedform migration and sediment flux implications to large scale morphologic evolution

Field observations of small scale seabed morphology were obtained over 4 weeks at two locations separated 66 m along a cross-shore transect during the 2014 MEGAPEX Experiment conducted as part of the longer term Sand Engine mega-nourishment project along the North Sea Coast of The Netherlands. The seafloor was continuously covered by dynamic bedforms with amplitudes ranging 0.02–0.40 m and wavelengths ranging 0.20–2.5 m. Ripple migration rates were up to 3.6 m/h, dependent on the energy of the waves and currents. Under the assumption of bedload dominant transport, cross-shore and alongshore sediment volume flux by ripples was estimated from observations at the spatially separated imaging locations. The average and maximum ripple sediment volume flux was found to be 0.22 and 1.7 m3/m/day, respectively, with larger fluxes during spring flood tides and storm wave conditions. The daily averaged fluxes were usually oriented about 30° north of shore-normal, moving in the same direction as a nearby transverse sandbar migration direction. Estimated gradients in the sediment flux within the surfzone were computed from bed level change measurements of the inner surfzone including a larger scale transverse sandbar measured from subsequent jetski surveys. We find that the estimated gradients in surfzone sediment flux are conceivably driven by small variations in the sediment flux driven by sand ripple migration, supported by our observations of ripple driven sediment flux at the two ripple imaging stations. A simple conceptual model is presented that shows how small scale bedforms may contribute to the growth and decay of larger scale bathymetric features, such as sandbars. Results suggest that sediment flux by small scale sand ripples and megaripples could significantly contribute to larger scale morphologic development in the surfzone.

Planform evolution and hydrodynamics near the multi-channel confluence between the Yarlung Zangbo River and the delta of the Niyang River

River confluences are key nodes in fluvial systems. Past studies on large river confluences were focused on the Paranà, Amazon, and Yangtze rivers, while the Yarlung Zangbo River (YZR), the longest plateau river in China, has not been investigated yet. This paper investigates a large multi-channel confluence between the YZR and one of its major tributaries, the anabranching Niyang River (NR). A remote-sensing study of this area demonstrated that the confluence planform is very stable compared with its upstream and downstream reaches that suffered from sandbar migration, meandering, and the development of a head-cut. A field survey using Acoustic Current Doppler Profiling (ADCP) was conducted at the confluence in June 2019, when the YZR and NR had discharges of about 1393 m3/s and 1299 m3/s in total, respectively. Although the discharge ratio of this confluence attained a value of 0.93, the existence of an estuary delta with a large area of floodplain largely weakened the impact of the NR on the dynamics of the YZR. The inflows of the multiple channels of the NR separated by the delta created an evident and long mixing interface and produced the left-side secondary cells in the YZR. In contrast, the curved riverbank played a more important role in the formation of deep scour holes, generating heterogeneity of the velocity distribution and the fast-mixing of flows. This study leads to an advancement in our current knowledge about multi-channel confluences.

The Method for Evaluating Cross-Shore Migration of Sand Bar under the Influence of Nonlinear Waves Transformation

Sand bar migration on the gently sloping sandy bottom in the coastal zone as a result of nonlinear wave transformation and corresponding sediment transport is discussed. Wave transformation on the intermediate depth causes periodic exchange of energy in space between the first and the second wave harmonics, accompanied by changes in the wave profile asymmetry. This leads to the occurrence of periodical fluctuations in the wave-induced sediment transport. It is shown that the position of the second nonlinear wave harmonic maximum determines location of the divergence point of sediment transport on the inclined bottom profile, where it changes direction from the onshore to the offshore. Such sediment transport pattern leads to formation of an underwater sand bar. A method is proposed to predict the position of the bar on an underwater slope after a storm based on calculation of the position of the maximum amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic. The method is validated on the base of field measurements and ERA 5 reanalysis wave data.

Littoral drift analysis based on long-term observation of mesotidal beach profile in Kuta Beach, Bali for coastal retreat assessment

The beach profile survey in the intertidal zone is crucial for a temporal variability study of shoreline and beach profile change for coastal management. The combination of numerical modelling and field data has proven to be successful in identifying the primary hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes such as littoral and cross-shore drift. Those parameters are relevant to the sandbar migration process and shoreline changes. The purpose of the present study is to analyse the littoral drift that caused temporal variability shoreline change in mesotidal beach for coastal retreat mitigation. Beach profile data of Kuta Beach was analyzed by 7 years of long-term field observation data both east monsoon and west monsoon situation. The shoreline definition used mean sea level (MSL)1.3 m and high water level (HWL) 2.6 m as reference. By using the MeEPASoL program as a graphical user interface program, shoreline changes converging to an equilibrium state can be simulated by taking into account the existing breakwater. Temporal shoreline position resulting from littoral drift and beach width change from its initial position is estimated for coastal erosion analysis. The result showed that dominantly, the littoral drift pattern moved from south to north. Furthermore, this study can be used in the process of identifying the primary hydrodynamic analysis in erosion disaster management as assessment of the beach erosion.

Foredune formation and evolution on a prograding sea-breeze dominated beach

This study investigates the mechanisms of dune formation and growth on a micro-tidal beach. The study area, located on a barrier island on the northern Yucatan peninsula, is characterized by persistent sea breeze conditions and a wide and shallow continental shelf. Beach topography data was collected over 5 years, on a prograding beach (0.5–7 m y-1), using a Real-Time Kinematic Differential Global Positioning System. The beach surveys (>100) cover from the subaerial beach (seaward from the existing foredune in 2015) to a 1.5 m water depth with a high spatial (0.2 m–0.5 m) and temporal (weekly to bi-weekly) resolution. Thus, shoreline evolution, offshore/onshore inner sandbar migration, and foredune initiation and growth can be analyzed from this data set. Moreover, environmental conditions, obtained from in situ observations and numerical model simulations, allow us to investigate the role of marine and aeolian processes on foredune morphodynamics. A net shoreline advance is observed, induced by the presence of a port's jetty, allowing the formation of a new foredune during the period of study. Field observations suggest that seasonal beach variability is explained by the onshore (offshore) sediment transport during fall-winter (spring-summer). The dune growth rate is well correlated with the monthly mean wind speed that reaches a maximum during spring months, when sea-breezes are more persistent and intense (W > 12 m s-1), the effective fetch length is larger, and the moisture content is lower. Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) analysis of beach profiles in the fast progradation area (>1 m y-1) shows that the variability is dominated by sustained beach width increase throughout the study period. On the other hand, at the slow progradation area the first and second EOF modes explain the seasonal beach and foredune variability, respectively. Thus, it is suggested that beach sand supply (during fall-winter) followed by aeolian transport (during spring) control the natural foredune growth in this region.

Modeling the hydrodynamics and morphodynamics of sandbar migration events

A number of models are available for science and engineering purposes that numerically simulate nearshore hydrodynamics and the corresponding morphological evolution. However, the models include adjustable coefficients in parameterizations for physical processes that need to be calibrated, and thus there remains room for improvement by including additional physics. One such model is XBeach, which can simulate erosion during storms with proper calibration based on observations. The modeled sediment transport, especially in the cross-shore direction, is sensitive to the adjustable coefficients, with preferred values that are site and event specific. Here, the skill of XBeach is investigated by comparing 1-dimensional (cross-shore) depth-averaged simulations with observations of waves, currents, and sandbar migration across an Atlantic Ocean beach. Calibration of coefficients improved the agreement of the computed results with observed wave heights, offshore-directed mean currents (undertow), the wave-orbital-velocity third moments (skewness and asymmetry), and onshore/offshore sandbar migration although the proposed coefficient values depend on the parameterizations used. For example, including a variable breaking-wave roller energy model resulted in more skillful predictions of undertow than using the default constant coefficient value. Using the calibrated roller coefficients and corresponding undertow, XBeach simulated the observed offshore migration of the sandbar. Onshore transport in XBeach is driven by non-sinusoidal wave-orbital velocities, and proposed values for coefficients depend on the parameterization used to estimate skewness and asymmetry and the associated transport, as well as on incident wave conditions. XBeach calculations of cross-shore sediment transport rates were compared with those estimated by a commonly used sediment transport formula based on laboratory experiments. The inter-comparison suggests that using a wave-induced onshore transport parameter 3 or 4 times larger than the default value may at least in part compensate for the lack of bottom-boundary-layer-streaming-driven-onshore transport in XBeach.

On the predictive skill of morphodynamic models for onshore sandbar migration

AbstractA simplified process‐based approach for evaluating onshore sandbar migration is presented in this study. This approach takes wave‐averaged parameters as input and computes sediment transport processes using a reconstructed intra‐wave orbital velocity signal. The proposed method guarantees good predictive skills for multiple onshore sandbar migration cases without an ad hoc calibration for each scenario. The study differs from previous onshore sandbar migration models, where calibration and testing are performed on just one or few events, and model assessment for uncalibrated realizations is rarely carried out. The present version of the model only addresses onshore sandbar migrations. For the onshore migration cases analyzed, the model has better predictive skills than state‐of‐the‐art morphodynamic models (XBeach and Unibest‐TC).

Utilization of satellite altimetry retrieved river roughness properties in hydraulic flow modelling of braided river system

ABSTRACT Sand bed braided rivers, such as the Brahmaputra, are highly dynamic in nature. The braided rivers change their course frequently, which causes huge bank erosion and sand bar migration. During the monsoon season the braided river has higher sediment-carrying capacity and the erosion power. A large amount of energy dissipation takes place in terms of river fragmentation and sand bar migration and bar erosion. These are common morphological characteristics within the sand bed braided rivers. The dynamic river bed and planform offer varying resistance to flow based on the hydrologic regime and reach characteristics of the river. Estimation of channel roughness coefficient is important for hydraulic modelling of the river. In this study, roughness characteristics of the Brahmaputra river were estimated using altimetry derived river stage records at different reaches of the river. The estimated Manning's roughness coefficients were incorporated in one-dimensional hydraulic model to perform simulations over the middle reach of the Brahmaputra River. Comparison of seasonal water level differences at different reaches of the river was performed using altimetry retrieved and model simulated water level for 2014 and 2015, respectively. The simulated water levels from altimetry derived Manning's roughness coefficient were found to be in close range with altimetry retrieved water levels for 2014 and 2015. It was found that the spatio-temporal variation of Manning's roughness coefficient proved to be an important parameter for modelling braided river systems such as the Brahmaputra.

Spatial Variation in Coastal Dune Evolution in a High Tidal Range Environment

Coastal dunes have global importance as ecological habitats, recreational areas, and vital natural coastal protection. Dunes evolve due to variations in the supply and removal of sediment via both wind and waves, and on stabilization through vegetation colonization and growth. One aspect of dune evolution that is poorly understood is the longshore variation in dune response to morphodynamic forcing, which can occur over small spatial scales. In this paper, a fixed wing unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV), is used to measure the longshore variation in evolution of a dune system in a megatidal environment. Dune sections to the east and west of the study site are prograding whereas the central portion is static or eroding. The measured variation in dune response is compared to mesoscale intertidal bar migration and short-term measurements of longshore variation in wave characteristics during two storms. Intertidal sand bar migration is measured using satellite imagery: crescentic intertidal bars are present in front of the accreting portion of the beach to the west and migrate onshore at a rate of 0.1–0.2 m/day; episodically the eastern end of the bar detaches from the main bar and migrates eastward to attach near the eastern end of the study area; bypassing the central eroding section. Statistically significant longshore variation in intertidal wave heights were measured using beachface mounted pressure transducers: the largest significant wave heights are found in front of the dune section suffering erosion. Spectral differences were noted with more narrow-banded spectra in this area but differences are not statistically significant. These observations demonstrate the importance of three-dimensionality in intertidal beach morphology on longshore variation in dune evolution; both through longshore variation in onshore sediment supply and through causing longshore variation in near-dune significant wave heights.