SEER, 98, 3, JULY 2020 588 After Finnish independence in December 1917, Eimeleus remained in Finland and served in senior Finnish Government positions until his death in 1935. It would be surprising if he had not had influence on the Finns’ employment of ski troops, and this would be worthy of further research. The lessons of Finland were taken on board in the Soviet Voroshilov reforms, and in 1941–42 Soviet ski troops were used successfully in counter-offensives against the Germans. That lay in the future, but Eimeleus’s book, which in some senses is more about skiing than war, had another legacy. Eimeleus had not done very well in the Modern Pentathlon in the 1912 Stockholm Olympics, but at the first Winter Olympics in Chamonix in 1924 there was an event called ‘Military Patrol’, in which teams of four competed in cross-country skiing, ski mountaineering and rifle shooting. It was, to all intents and purposes, the modern biathlon, whose rules are very similar. London Chris Bellamy Lakhtikova, Anastasia; Brintlinger, Angela and Glushchenko, Irina (eds). Seasoned Socialism: Gender and Food in Late Soviet Everyday Life. Indiana University Press, Bloomington, IN, 2019. xix + 373 pp. Illustrations. Notes. Bibliography. Index. $35.00 (paperback). It is a strange feeling to be reading and reviewing this largely fascinating collected volume in April 2020, as much of the world stays at home, adapting to what seems to be entirely new worlds of work, of study, of play, and of consumption, cooking and eating. This last world seems to have taken on particular importance in our new pandemic moment in multiple ways. On the one hand there are the many, many Instagram accounts devoted to showing off pandemic cooking and the joking tales of nurturing sourdough starters instead of watching sports (mine is named Sam). On the other, there are the laments that this good or that good — flour, yeast, eggs — are gone from the shelves. This new Western encounter with ‘deficit goods’, as they were known in the late Soviet Union, brings up obvious parallels to much of the discussion in this volume, ones I hear from friends who grew up in the late Soviet Union, or public figures who did, and now tweet about it. As Julia Ioffe put it, ‘I have to say that, as a child of the USSR, it’s really jarring and upsetting to go grocery shopping these days and see so many empty shelves, to go back to how my grandmothers used to cook: you don’t make what you want, but what the ingredients in stock allow you to make’ (@juliaioffe, Twitter, 27 April 2020). The association of today’s empty shelves with the empty shelves of the Soviet Union is probably not too surprising, but one of the remarkable insights of the REVIEWS 589 edited volume, Seasoned Socialism: Gender and Food in Late Soviet Everyday Life, is the degree to which there are parallels between the obsession with pandemic cooking as a performance and the late Soviet experience. As several of the chapters note, despite or perhaps because of the fact that a persistent theme of the late-Soviet experience of food was, as Darra Goldstein notes in her forward, one of scarcity — by this point rarely the outright hunger and even starvation of earlier eras other than in the still present labour camps chillingly described by Ona Renner-Fahey’s chapter on Irina Ratushinskaya’s camp memoir, but certainly of limited options caused by the ‘economy of nochoice ’ described by Anastasia Lakhtikova and Angela Brintlinger in their introduction (p. 11) — cooking and eating often played a role that went well beyond providing sustenance. In books and on film, displays of food and cooking envisioned an ideal Soviet life that lived up to Mikoyan’s dream of socialist consumption or to the post-war return to bourgeois domesticity. Or they hinted at the moral challenges Soviet realities could create, as privation led to greed but prosperity led to immorality (Sutcliffe, p. 126). In real life, Soviet women traded recipes, creating elaborate manuscript cookbooks, and used those recipes to cook up elaborate feasts for family and friends (Lakhtikova). It is not that men did not also...
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