Abstract This article examines the possible roots of the change in cultural attitudes, due to which fashionable objects of animal origin started to be viewed negatively in Russian fashion periodicals and advice manuals of the early twentieth century. Among these influences, we may count the development of the animal protection movement, with the Russian Society for the Protection of Animals established in 1865. Although initially this association was not concerned with fashion, it shaped the notion of the cruel treatment of animals, drawing public attention to this issue. An analysis of non-fiction writing by Fyodor Dostoevsky and Vikentii Veresaev will show that, while the Society’s agenda was ambiguous and met with a mixed response, the new sensibilities this group promoted were increasingly internalized by the educated public. On the other hand, fashion criticism during the era argued that fashion distorts and deforms human shape by giving it animal features – that is, it assists degeneration. A reversal of evolution, in this case triggered by brutality, was similarly evoked by the proponents of animal protection. The newly perceived inappropriateness of certain fashionable objects was thus due to the double ‘animality’ they were believed to impart to the wearer: that of following the ‘fashion instinct’ and that of being complicit in violence.
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