Range Of Applications In Cosmetics Research Articles

Catalytic Mechanism and Heterologous Biosynthesis Application of Sesquiterpene Synthases.

Sesquiterpenes comprise a diverse group of natural products with a wide range of applications in cosmetics, food, medicine, agriculture, and biofuels. Heterologous biosynthesis is increasingly employed for sesquiterpene production, aiming to overcome the limitations associated with chemical synthesis and natural extraction. Sesquiterpene synthases (STSs) play a crucial role in the heterologous biosynthesis of sesquiterpene. Under the catalysis of STSs, over 300 skeletons are produced through various cyclization processes (C1-C10 closure, C1-C11 closure, C1-C6 closure, and C1-C7 closure), which are responsible for the diversity of sesquiterpenes. According to the cyclization types, we gave an overview of advances in understanding the mechanism of STSs cyclization from the aspects of protein crystal structures and site-directed mutagenesis. We also summarized the applications of engineering STSs in the heterologous biosynthesis of sesquiterpene. Finally, the bottlenecks and potential research directions related to the STSs cyclization mechanism and application of modified STSs were presented.

Fermentation parameters and conditions affecting levan production and its potential applications in cosmetics

Levan is a polysaccharide composed of fructose units with β-2,6-glycoside bonds. Microorganisms synthesize levan by levansucrase as a mixture of low- and high-molecular-weight fractions. Due to its properties, it has a wide range of applications in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, food and medicine; it appears that the molecular weight of levan might impact its industrial use. To obtain one fraction of levan after biotransformation, ethanol precipitation with an increasing volume of alcohol was conducted. This precipitation process was also optimized. Several types of analyses were used. Low-molecular-weight levan was evaluated for toxicity in a normal human dermal fibroblast cell line and hemolytic potential on human erythrocytes. Levan was found to be non-cytotoxic and non-hemolytic in concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 1.00 mg/ml. Moreover, levan demonstrated antioxidant potential expressed as an ability to inhibit of oil/water emulsion oxidation and DPPH radical scavenging.

Self-Assembly of Unconventional Low-Molecular-Mass Amphiphiles Containing a PEG Chain.

The design and synthesis of biocompatible surfactants are important for a wide range of applications in cosmetics, personal care products, and nanomedicine. This feature article summarizes our studies over the past 8 years on the design, synthesis, surface activity, and self-assembly of a series of unconventional low-molecular-mass amphiphiles containing a poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG) tail or spacer and different ionic or zwitterionic headgroups, including carboxylate, sulfonate, and quaternary ammonium salts. Despite having a so-called polar PEG chain as a tail or spacer, these ionic amphiphiles are found to have a tendency to adsorb at the air/water interface and self-assemble in pH 7.0 buffers at 298 K in the same way that conventional hydrocarbon tail surfactants do. However, they are observed to be relatively less surface-active compared to hydrocarbon tail surfactants. Although these amphiphilic molecules have less surface activity, they do self-assemble in aqueous buffer at 298 K, producing a range of microstructures, including spherical micelles, disclike micelles, and vesicles. In fact, our group is the first to report the self-assembly of PEG-tailed ionic amphiphiles in water at room temperature. Some of these molecules are also found to gel various organic liquids on heat-cool treatment or by ultrasound irradiation. We think that the present article will arouse general interest among researchers working toward the development of new biocompatible amphiphiles and soft materials.

Quantification of oligopeptide‐20 and oligopeptide‐24 in cosmetic creams using hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography with electrospray ionization mass spectrometry

AbstractPeptides are a very popular category of cosmetic ingredients covering a wide range of applications in cosmetics. Hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography is promising for the analysis and separation of such polar substances. In this work, the chromatographic behaviour of oligopeptide‐20 and oligopeptide‐24 was initially investigated on a zwitterionic ZIC®‐HILIC analytical column under isocratic elution with UV detection. Then, a hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography with positive ion electrospray mass spectrometric assay was developed and validated for the quantitation of these peptides in cosmetic creams. All analytes were separated by using a polymeric zwitterionic ZIC®‐pHILIC analytical column (150.0 × 2.1 mm i.d., particle size 3.5 μm, 200 Å) with isocratic elution. The mobile phase was composed of a 28% 32.5 mM ammonium formate water solution pH 9.5 in acetonitrile and pumped at a flow rate of 0.25 mL min−1. A run time of less than 11 min for each sample made it possible to analyze a large number of samples per day. This is the first reported application of hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography in the simultaneous determination of oligopeptide‐20 and oligopeptide‐24 in cosmetic creams and it can be used to support routine quality control of these products.

Exploration of surface plasmon resonance for yam tyrosinase characterization

Tyrosinase is a ubiquitous enzyme in nature. It catalyzes the reaction in melanin formation. In this investigation, tyrosinase from a Yam tuber (Amorphophallus paeoniifolius) was extracted and purified by ultra-centrifugal filtration followed by ion exchange chromatography. The purified enzyme was obtained with purification fold of 12.65 and specific activity of 60.25 U/mg. The molecular weight of purified enzyme was confirmed to be 45 kDa by SDS-PAGE. The enzyme activity was optimal at pH 6 and 30 °C with Km 10 mM. Further the kinetic study of purified yam tyrosinase was carried out using Surface Plasmon Resonance method. In brief, enzyme was immobilized on chip surface by amine coupling method and different small molecules were analyzed for their binding affinities at different concentrations (mM). The affinity of each compound for yam tyrosinase was different with KD values as tannic acid (5.13 × 10−5), gallic acid (2.05 × 10−8), ascorbic acid (0.004544), caffeic acid (3.09 × 10−9), pyrogallol (2.13 × 10−4) and catechol (1.09 × 10−4). The kinetics data results were confirmed by inhibition assays and IC50 values were calculated. This data will help to study the role of tyrosinase in hyperpigmentation which will create an avenue for tyrosinase inhibitors. Tyrosinase inhibitors have wide range of applications in cosmetics, medical and food industries.

Improved production of melanin from Aspergillus fumigatus AFGRD105 by optimization of media factors.

Melanins are indolic polymers produced by many genera included among plants, animals and microorganisms and targeted mainly for their wide range of applications in cosmetics, agriculture and medicine. An approach to analyse the cumulative effect of parameters for enhanced melanin production was carried out using response surface methodology. In this present study, optimization of media and process parameters for melanin production from Aspergillus fumigatus AFGRD105 (GenBank: JX041523; NFCCI accession number: 3826) was carried out by an initial univariate approach followed by statistical response surface methodology. The univariate approach was used to standardise the parameters that can be used for the 12-run Plackett–Burman design that is used for screening for critical parameters. Further optimization of parameters was analysed using Box–Behnken design. The optimum conditions observed were temperature, moisture and sodium dihydrogen phosphate concentration. The yield of every run of both designs were confirmed to be melanin by laboratory tests of analysis in the presence of acids, base and water. This is the first report confirming an increase in melanin production A. fumigatus AFGRD105 without the addition of costly additives.

Functions, applications and production of 2-O-d-glucopyranosyl-l-ascorbic acid

Vitamin C (VC) is an essential nutrient that cannot be synthesized by the human body. Due to its extreme instability, various VC derivatives have been developed in an attempt to improve stability while retaining the same biological activity. One of the most important VC derivatives, 2-O-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid (AA-2G), has attracted increasing attention in recent years with a wide range of applications in cosmetics, food, and medicine. In this mini-review, we first introduce the types and properties of different VC glycosyl derivatives. Next, we provide an overview of the functions and applications of AA-2G. Finally, we discuss in-depth the current status and future prospects of AA-2G production by biotransformation.

Patenting in the cosmetic sector: study of the use of herbal extracts

The aim of this work was to evaluate the innovative performance of herbal extracts applied in cosmetics area, based on information collected from Brazilian, American and European patent banks. Analysis were carried out to evaluate the number of patent deposits from each database, the patent applicants profiles, the companies with most patent applications, and also the main uses of herbal extracts in cosmetics. Based on the results achieved, the number of patents filed at the Brazilian patent bank is much lower than that observed in American and European patent banks. Although the number of patents is limited, the analysis indicated a range of cosmetic applications that acts according to the international market trend, represented by a large number of multifunctional products.

Solid lipid nanoparticles: A drug carrier system

Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) are a type of nanoparticles. They are submicron colloidal carriers which are composed of physiological lipids, dispersed in water or in aqueous surfactant solutions. SLN have wide range of advantages over other types of nanoparticles. These include availability of large-scale production methods and no signs of cytotoxicity, which are main hindrances in the application of other types of nanoparticles. Hot and cold homogenization techniques are mainly employed for its production. They are mainly evaluated on the basis of their drug release profile and particle internal structure. The products based on SLN are under development. They have a very wide range of applications in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. They can be applied for any purpose, for which nanoparticles have a distinct advantage. Thus, SLN can be used extensively as an alternative to the existing drug carrier systems, providing more flexibility with respect to the area of applications and also aspects for commercialization.

Physicochemical characterization and in vitro release studies of ascorbyl palmitate-loaded semi-solid nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC gels)

The aim of this study was to characterize the physicochemical properties and to study in vitro release of ascorbyl palmitate from semi-solid lipid nanoparticles based on nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC gels) systems with the desired viscosity for dermal delivery. NLC gels were obtained by a one-step production procedure employing a high pressure homogenization technique using different solid lipid matrices. Ascorbyl palmitate (AP) was selected as a lipophilic active ingredient due to its range of cosmetic applications. After the production, particles within the size range 170–250 nm having polydispersity index lower than 0.3 were obtained from all formulations. After the AP incorporation into the NLC gels, the zeta potential increased to values higher than |30 mV|. Almost 100% encapsulation efficiency was observed. The obtained SEM and AFM data revealed non-spherical shaped nanoparticles. From DSC and X-ray diffraction studies, it was shown that the lipid recrystallized in the solid state possessing a less ordered structure as compared to the bulk material. The release study of active-loaded NLC gel formulations using Franz diffusion cells revealed that the type of lipid matrix affects both the rate and the release pattern. The viscoelastic measurements revealed a more elastic than viscous behaviour of NLC formulations indicating a typical gel-like structure.