In this research, a study of the effect of good mercerization and cross-linking treatments on cotton fabrics structure and performance was made. The factors affecting enhancement of fabric strength after mercerization were investigated. The results showed that the caustic soda (NaOH) concentration and mercerizing machine speed are the main causes of increasing the fabric breaking load, tear strength and abrasion resistance. Also, for every fabric structure and weight per unit area there are optimum conditions of mercerization; i.e. for light fabrics the NaOH concentration was 260 g/lit and the mercerizing machine speed was 30 m/min, while for heavy fabrics the NaOH concentration ranges from 280 to 300 g/lit, depending on the fabric structure. When these fabrics were subjected to cross-linking treatments, the best DMDHEU concentration was 80 g/lit in the presence of magnesium chloride (Mg Cl2. 6 H2O) as a catalyst at 16 g/lit, the curing temperature was 160°C and the curing time was 4 minutes. Logically, mercerization improves fabric breaking load, tear strength and abrasion resistance by virtue of the favorable effect of mercerization on the degree of orientation and uniformity of cotton structure. When these fabrics were subjected to cross-linking treatment; there was a considerable loss in the tensile, tear strength and abrasion resistance. The good mercerized then cross-linked fabrics retained accepted strength properties compared to the raw fabrics.
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