Permanent Waving Treatments Research Articles

Effect of Pre-treatment Containing Mask Pack Active Ingredients on Permanent Wave and Hair Protection

This study was aimed at investigating the effect of a pre-treatment on hair by using the end paper to which mask pack active ingredients were adsorbed as the pre-treatment before the permanent wave treatment. Among the mask packs with the highest preference in the ‘Hwahae’ application, the mask packs containing active ingredients such as collagen, Houttuynia cordata, and black soybean, which are good for hair protection, were purchased from the market and the active ingredients adsorbed onto the paper for treatment. For the experimental methods, hair thickness, tensile strength, hair cuticle observation using SEM and hair constituent elemental analysis using EDS were conducted. The results of hair thickness, tensile strength, hair cuticle observation and hair constituent elemental analysis showed that the experimental group treated with the active ingredient of black soybean had a hair protection effect. When the active ingredients used as a pre-treatment are developed as hair cosmetics, it is expected to be applied usefully in the field of industry, and thus it is hoped that studies on this will be actively conducted.

Green chemistry method for hair strengthening and setting using visible light-mediated protein crosslinking

A clean and nontoxic one-step protein crosslinking reaction method induced by visible light was developed using eco-friendly chemicals, such as riboflavin phosphate (RFP), citric acid (CA), and polyols . In this study, oxygen radicals generated by blue light (BL)-irradiated RFP replace the conventional free thiol generatio step of the alkali condition. CA and polyol were used as crosslinkers and extenders , respectively, to enhance keratin crosslinking in hair. The new one-step crosslinking method was compared with the existing permanent hair waving treatment using thioglycolic acid (TGA). Compared to TGA treatment, the newly proposed crosslinking method induced minor damage to hair and keratin. In addition, the mechanical property changes were measured after crosslinking treatment on the hair. The tensile stress values and Young's moduli of the treated hair samples were approximately 1.3 and 2.2 times higher than untreated hair. The hair-setting effect was also confirmed by the changes in the radii of the hair fibers and the length of the hair tresses after crosslinking treatment. Therefore, we believe that the clean one-step crosslinking technology can be used to develop eco-friendly products for hair strengthening and setting. • Clean one-step crosslinking of keratin is effective in strengthening and setting hair. • Keratin crosslinking is induced by exposure to blue light in the presence of RFP. • Citric acid and polyols form extender acts as a linker for keratin crosslinking.

Mechanism of Cuticle Hole Development in Human Hair Due to UV-Radiation Exposure

Hair is easily damaged by ultraviolet (UV) radiation, bleaching agents or permanent wave treatments, and as damage progresses, hair loses its gloss, develops split ends and breaks. However, the causes of hair damage due to UV radiation have not yet been clarified. We discovered that in one mechanism facilitating damage to wet hair by UV radiation, the unsaturated fatty acids in wet hair produce hydroxy radicals upon exposure to UV radiation, and these radicals produce cuticle holes between the cuticle layers. In wet hair exposed to UV radiation, cuticle holes were produced only between the cuticle layers, whereas when human hair was immersed in a solution containing hydroxy radicals produced by Fenton’s reaction, a random production of cuticle holes was noted. It is thought that hydroxy radicals are produced only between the cuticle layers by exposure to UV radiation, and cuticle holes are formed only in this region because one of the polyunsaturated fatty acids, linoleic acid, with a bis-allyl hydrogen, is found between the cuticle layers.

Internal structural changes in keratin fibres resulting from combined hair waving and stress relaxation treatments: a Raman spectroscopic investigation.

The objective of our research was to investigate the influence of chemical treatments (reduction, stress relaxation and oxidation) on hair keratin fibres. The structure of cross-sections at various depths of virgin white human hair resulting from permanent waving treatments with stress relaxation process was directly analysed at a molecular level using Raman spectroscopy. In particular, the three disulphide (-SS-) conformations in human hair were compared by S-S band analysis. The gauche-gauche-gauche (GGG) and gauche-gauche-trans (GGT) contents of -SS- groups remarkably decreased, while the trans-gauche-trans (TGT) content was not changed by performing the reduction process with thioglycolic acid. In addition, the high-temperature stress relaxation process after reduction accelerated the disconnection of -SS- (GGG and GGT) groups in the human hair, while the low-temperature stress relaxation process after reduction accelerated the reconnection of -SS- (GGG and GGT) groups. Moreover, the S-O band intensity at 1042 cm(-1) , assigned to cysteic acid, existing in the cuticle region and the surface of the cortex region increased, while the GGG content significantly decreased by performing the oxidation process after the reduction and the high-temperature stress relaxation processes. The author concluded that the high-temperature relaxation process after reduction accelerated the disconnection of -SS- (GGG and GGT) groups, thereby leading to the remarkable local molecular disorganization (an increase in the cysteic acid content and a decrease in the GGG content) on the cuticle and cortex cells during the oxidation process.

Effect of shampoo, conditioner and permanent waving on the molecular structure of human hair.

The hair is a filamentous biomaterial consisting of the cuticle, the cortex and the medulla, all held together by the cell membrane complex. The cortex mostly consists of helical keratin proteins that spiral together to form coiled-coil dimers, intermediate filaments, micro-fibrils and macro-fibrils. We used X-ray diffraction to study hair structure on the molecular level, at length scales between ∼3–90 Å, in hopes of developing a diagnostic method for diseases affecting hair structure allowing for fast and noninvasive screening. However, such an approach can only be successful if common hair treatments do not affect molecular hair structure. We found that a single use of shampoo and conditioner has no effect on packing of keratin molecules, structure of the intermediate filaments or internal lipid composition of the membrane complex. Permanent waving treatments are known to break and reform disulfide linkages in the hair. Single application of a perming product was found to deeply penetrate the hair and reduce the number of keratin coiled-coils and change the structure of the intermediate filaments. Signals related to the coiled-coil structure of the α-keratin molecules at 5 and 9.5 Å were found to be decreased while a signal associated with the organization of the intermediate filaments at 47 Å was significantly elevated in permed hair. Both these observations are related to breaking of the bonds between two coiled-coil keratin dimers.

Effect of lugworm protein hydrolysates containing proteins of differing molecular weight distributions on permanent wave treatment in damaged hair

The effects of lugworm protein hydrolysate-containing proteins of differing molecular weights on permanent wave treatment of damaged hair were investigated. A protease-coenzyme obtained by culturing B. subtilis K-54 extracted from Cheonggukjang (fermented soybean paste stew) was added during the preparation of the lugworm protein hydrolysate. In particular, lugworm protein hydrolysates containing proteins of differing molecular weights were obtained by controlling the amount of added protease coenzyme. Each protein hydrolysate was then used as a pre-treatment agent for permanent wave treatment on permed hair or bleached hair and the thickness, density, and tensile strength of the hair, and wave-forming ability and durability were measured. The results indicated that an optimal level of decomposition of the lugworm protein facilitates the prevention of hair damage induced by permanent wave treatments.

Exposure of hairdressers to ortho- and meta-toluidine in hair dyes

BackgroundCarcinogenic aromatic amines derived from hair dyes have recently received new attention. One of these is ortho (o)-toluidine, which is classified as carcinogenic to humans.ObjectivesTo clarify exposure of hairdressers to...

Coloring, Bleaching, and Perming

Hair analysis of ethyl glucuronide (EtG) has become, beside fatty acid ethyl ester, a valuable marker for the detection of moderate and chronic excessive alcohol consumption. So far, only few studies exist about the influence of cosmetic treatment on EtG content in hair. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of coloring, bleaching, and perming on the concentration of this alcohol marker in hair. Studies were also performed to evaluate the chemical stability of EtG in the presence of hydrogen peroxide and ammonium thioglycolate. Six air samples were treated in vitro by the different commercial cosmetics following the suppliers' instructions. After washing, pulverization, incubation in ultrasonic bath, and solid phase extraction, EtG was determined by GC/MS-NICI after solid phase extraction and heptafluorobutyric anhydride derivatization. The results showed that samples (n = 10) treated with the coloring product did not show any important change in the EtG results. In the bleaching study (n = 23), a mean decrease of 73.5% was observed. After incubation of a solution of EtG with hydrogen peroxide (15%), a decrease of 45% was shown supporting the hypothesis of a chemical degradation of EtG and a leaching out effect from the hair matrix. In the perm treatment study (n = 23), a mean decrease of 95.7% of EtG was found. Incubation of a solution of EtG with ammonium thioglycolate (5%) showed a total decrease of EtG supporting the hypothesis of a chemical degradation. Coloring treatment did not importantly influence EtG content in hair. However, an important decrease of EtG in hair could be found after bleaching and permanent wave treatment. This decrease seems to be because of a chemical degradation of EtG, after bleaching, and a leaching out effect from the matrix. After perming, it seems to be more of a chemical degradation of EtG. These data have to be considered for the correct interpretation of EtG amounts in hair.

Effects of Water Soluble Wool Keratin on Bleaching and Permanent Waving Treatments of Hair

Effects of Water Soluble Wool Keratin on Bleaching and Permanent Waving Treatments of Hair

Analysis of heterogeneous reaction between reducing agents and keratin fibers using Raman spectroscopy and microspectrophotometry

In order to investigate the heterogeneous reaction between reducing agents (thioglycolic acid (TG) and l-cysteine (CYS)) and keratin of on keratin fibers at the molecular level, the disconnected –SS– content of cross-sections at various depths of virgin white human hair treated with reducing agents was directly analyzed using Raman spectroscopy and microspectrophotometry. The reducing section of –SS– groups existing in the cortex region by performing the permanent waving treatment was clearly the matrix protein (IFAP). The TG relative concentration and the disconnected relative concentration of disulfide (–SS–) groups at various depths of the hair samples with pH 9.0 were in good agreement, indicating that the disconnected –SS– pattern of TG into virgin human hair was Fickian type characteristics. We demonstrated that diffusion of TG and the disconnected of –SS– groups proceeded together, gradually, beyond the cuticle region, and toward the inside of the cortex region for virgin hair samples at pH 9.0. While, the disconnected relative concentration of –SS– groups at various depths of the hair samples with pH 9.0 was less than the CYS relative concentration, indicating that the reaction rate (the disconnection of –SS– groups) was slower than the diffusion rate of CYS into human hair. Consequently, CYS hardly penetrated into the cortex region of the virgin human hair at pH 9.0, since the free amino groups of CYS electrostatically interacted with the anionic ions of the fiber surface.From these experiments, we concluded that the virgin human hair treated with CYS was less damaged as compared with the hair treated with TG, since CYS hardly penetrated into the cortex region of the virgin human hair at pH 9.0, and the disconnected ability of –SS– groups of CYS was low (60% below).

Hair Damage and Wave Efficiency according to the Degree of Alkalinity in Permanent Wave

Diversification and individualization are pursued to fulfill the increasing human desire for beauty. There are many methods to change human appearances; of these, a permanent wave is often applied to improve beauty. A permanent wave uses physical and chemical methods to break and reform the bonds of natural hair. Thus, research into the optimized conditions for permanent waves is necessary to minimize hair damage and improve the efficiency of the treatment. The object of this study is to examine the effect of varying the alkalinity (8%, 12%, and 16%) of the permanent wave treatment on the wave efficiency, degree of hair damage via tensile strength, and degree of hair protein release. The results indicate that the treatment with the highest alkalinity (16%) is more effective than that with 8% alkalinity; however, the degree of hair damage when treated with the 16% alkalinity wave is higher than with the 8% alkalinity wave. Additionally, hair proteins increasingly dissolve with increasing alkalinity of the permanent wave.

콜라겐을 첨가한 퍼머넌트웨이브제의 개발

본 연구에서는 콜라겐의 처방이 퍼머넌트웨이브 시술시 미치는 영향을 알아보기 위하여 정상모에 콜라겐을 농도별 처방한 퍼머넌트웨이브제로 퍼머넌트웨이브를 시술한 후 모발에 컬의 형성력, 굵기 관찰, 인장 강도, 메틸렌블루 흡광도, 수분 감소량 등의 변화를 측정하여 비교분석하였다. 결론적으로 퍼머넌트웨이브제의 콜라겐 처방 여부에 따라 모발의 굵기, 모발의 인장강도, 모발의 수분 감소량, 흡광도가 처방하지 않은 환원제에 대비하여 감소하였으며, 처방된 콜라겐의 농도가 증가할수록 모발의 손상도가 줄어드는 결과를 보였다. 그러나 콜라겐의 농도의 크기가 커질수록 퍼머넌트웨이브 시술시 컬의 형성력이 떨어지는 결과가 나타났다. 그러므로 퍼머넌트웨이브 시술시 모발의 손상도를 줄이기 위한 콜라겐 처방 농도는 2%가 적당하였다. In this study, in order to find effects of collagen manipulation on hair in permanent wave treatment, it was conducted measurement and analysis on hair curl formation, thickness, tensile strength, methylene blue absorbance, and moisture loss after manipulating concentration proportion of collagen in permanent wave treatment on normal hair. As a result, it was found that by contrast with applying the reductant, hair thickness, tensile strength, methylene blue absorbance, and moisture loss were decreased when applied collagen in permanent wave treatment the higher concentration proportion of collagen was applied, the less damage was occurred on hair However curl formation capacity was decreased in permanent wave treatment as concentration proportion of collagen was increased. Therefore, the appropriate concentration proportion of collagen was 2% in order to reduce hair damage in permanent wave treatment.

J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 203–215 (May/June 2008) Effects of permanent waving on changes of protein and physicomorphological properties in human head hair

SynopsisTwo types of permanent waving [digital perm (DP) and croquignole winding perm (CWP)] and two waving lotions [cysteamine‐HCl, pH 9.31, liquid type (lotion A) and sodium thioglycolate, pH 9.97, cream type (lotion B)] were used for this study. The protein content was decreased by permanent waving treatments on the whole, and the degree of reduction was dependent on the hair styling and waving lotion used. The greatest decrease (by 58%) was found in hairs processed with the three‐treatment performance of DP using lotion B. SDS‐PAGE identified the presence of the two most abundant polypeptides, with approximately 48 and 60 kDa, and two large polypeptides, with approximately 200 and 210 kDa, which would belong to the keratin family. Some physical properties of the hairs (tensile strength, diameter, swelling, and elongation) were examined with the permanent waving treatments. In general, the repeated waving treatment and the use of lotion B showed more negative effects on hair care than other treatments. Some morphological changes were observed with a scanning electron microscope (SEM). The most prominent change in the hair surface was observed in the hair specimen with the three‐treatment performance of DP using lotion B. More severe signs of damage appeared on the hair with lotion B than with lotion A. As the numbers of permanent waves increased, the degree of damage to the hair surface increased on the whole. However, there was no indication of changes to the hair surface with one permanent waving treatment, as determined by SEM analysis.

Action of Thioglycolic Acid and L-Cysteine to Disulfide Cross-Links in Hair Fibers during Permanent Waving Treatment

Action of Thioglycolic Acid and L-Cysteine to Disulfide Cross-Links in Hair Fibers during Permanent Waving Treatment

Effects of Permanent Waving and Bleaching Treatments on Damage of Human Hair

Effects of Permanent Waving and Bleaching Treatments on Damage of Human Hair

Analysis of structural changes in permanent waved human hair using Raman spectroscopy

To investigate the mechanism leading to the reduction in tensile strength of permanent waved human hair, the structure of cross-sections at various depths of permanent waved white human hair was directly analyzed without isolating the cuticle and cortex, using Raman spectroscopy. The beta-sheet and/or random coil content (beta/R) and the Amide III(unordered) band intensity existing throughout the cortex region of virgin white human hair remarkably increased, while the alpha-helix (alpha) content slightly decreased by performing the permanent waving treatment. This suggests a secondary structural change from the alpha-helix form to the random coil form in the proteins existing in the microfibril of the cortex region. On the other hand, the S-S band intensity existing in the matrix of the cortex region almost did not change, despite the reduction in the tensile strength of the white human hair following the permanent waving treatment. Moreover, the transmission electron microscope observation shows that the macrofibril (the microfibril and matrix) existing in the cortex region of the virgin white human hair was remarkably disturbed, while the cuticle region was almost unchanged by performing the permanent waving treatment. From these experiments, the authors concluded that some of proteins existing in the cortex region (the microfibril and matrix) of the virgin white human hair were changed, thereby leading to the remarkable reduction in the tensile strength of the white human hair after the permanent waving treatment.

High-performance liquid chromatography study on effects of permanent wave, dye and decolorant treatments on methamphetamine and amphetamine in hair.

Black hairs that had been removed from a methamphetamine (MA) addict were treated with permanent wave, dye or decolorant liquids, and MA and amphetamine (AP) were quantified by a high-performance liquid chromatography/chemiluminescence detection method. The concentrations of MA and AP in the hair decreased significantly in all cases. Both MA and AP were stable in the permanent wave treatments, but not stable in the dye or decolorant treatments. As possible reasons for the decrease, the elution of MA and AP from hair in the permanent wave treatment, and the degradation of MA and AP in the dye or decolorant treatments might be considered. These results suggested that treatments of hair with permanent wave, dye or decolorant liquids interfered with determination of MA and AP in hair.

High‐performance liquid chromatography study on effects of permanent wave, dye and decolorant treatments on methamphetamine and amphetamine in hair

High‐performance liquid chromatography study on effects of permanent wave, dye and decolorant treatments on methamphetamine and amphetamine in hair

Structural change of keratin protein in human hair by permanent waving treatment

The damage to human hair caused by permanent waving treatment was examined from the viewpoint of structure with several spectroscopic methods, 13C CP/MAS n.m.r., wide angle X-ray diffraction (WAXD), FTi.r. and Raman methods. The partial disruption of α-helical structure constituting the microfibril in hair fibre was revealed by this study, although the incomplete re-oxidation of the disulphide bond has been considered to be the main damage caused by the treatment. Moreover, this disruption was mainly caused in the first reduction process. In particular, 13C CP/MAS n.m.r. gave the quantitative evaluation for change of α-helical content in the microfibril with permanent waving treatment. In addition, FTi.r. and Raman spectra indicated that the α-helix was partially changed to random coil, rather than to β-sheet structure.

Contributions to the chemistry of human hair: III. Protein chemical aspects of permanent waving treatments

Synopsis The influence of permanent waving on hair proteins was studied in order to obtain additional information about the chemistry of this cosmetic treatment. It was shown by amino acid analysis that with increasing reduction time during treatment fewer disulphide bonds were reformed in hair during subsequent reoxidation. Simultaneously, an increasing amount of sulphur-containing material is liberated from the hair, as demonstrated by the sulphur balance calculated from the sulphur-containing amino acids. The amount liberated is increased when an extensive soaking of the samples in water between the reduction and reoxidation step is performed. Comparing treatments with the use of reducing solutions of pH values between 7.5 and 10.0, it was found that the largest amount of cystine cleavage occurs at pH 9.0. All hair samples reduced at pH values above pH 8.5 showed incomplete reformation of the disulphide bonds during subsequent reoxidation. This was indicated by the content of free SH-groups and cysteic acid, as quantified by amino acid analysis. The damage to the hair proteins due to permanent waving was further confirmed by the determination of the pronase solubility. The reductive treatment of hair at pH 7.5 led to a relatively low degree of reduction, however all sulphur bonds were reformed during subsequent reoxidation.