Organization Of Stratum Corneum Research Articles

Skin acidification with a water-in-oil emulsion (pH 4) restores disrupted epidermal barrier and improves structure of lipid lamellae in the elderly.

The pH of the skin surface increases with age and thus reduces epidermal barrier function. Aged skin needs appropriate skin care to counterbalance age‐related pH increase and improve barrier function. This confirmatory randomized study investigated the efficacy of water‐in‐oil (w/o) emulsions with either pH 4 or pH 5.8 in 20 elderly subjects after 4 weeks of treatment. After the treatment, the skin was challenged with a sodium dodecyl sulphate (SDS) solution in order to analyze barrier protection properties of both formulations. The pH 4 w/o emulsion resulted in a significantly lower skin pH compared with the pH 5.8 w/o emulsion and an improved skin hydration after 4‐week treatment. Further, the pH 4 emulsion led to more pronounced improvements in length of intercellular lipid lamellae, lamellar organization as well as lipid levels than the pH 5.8 emulsion. Following SDS‐induced barrier damage to the skin, the pH of all test areas increased, but the area treated with the pH 4 emulsion showed the lowest increase compared with baseline. In addition, even after the SDS challenge the skin area treated with the pH 4 emulsion still maintained a significantly increased length of intercellular lipid lamellae compared with the beginning of the study. This study provides evidence that topical application of a w/o emulsion with pH 4 reacidifies the skin in elderly and has beneficial effects on skin moisturization, regeneration of lipid lamellae and lipid content. Application of a pH 4 emulsion can improve the epidermal barrier as well as the stratum corneum organization in aged skin.

Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin

PurposeTo determine whether formulations containing ceramides (including a ceramide with a long hydroxyl acyl chain linked to a linoleate, CER EOS) and fatty acids are able to repair the skin barrier by normalizing the lipid organization in stratum corneum (SC).MethodsThe formulations were applied on a skin barrier repair model consisting of ex vivo human skin from which SC was removed by stripping. The effect of formulations on the lipid organization and conformational ordering in the regenerated SC were analyzed using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and small angle X-ray diffraction.ResultsApplication of the formulation containing only one ceramide on regenerating SC resulted in a higher fraction of lipids adopting an orthorhombic organization. A similar fraction of lipids forming an orthorhombic organization was observed after application of a formulation containing two ceramides and a fatty acid on regenerating SC. No effects on the lamellar lipid organization were observed.ConclusionsApplication of a formulation containing either a single ceramide or two ceramides and a fatty acid on regenerating SC, resulted in a denser lateral lipid packing of the SC lipids in compromised skin. The strongest effect was observed after application of a formulation containing a single ceramide.

TNF-α and Th2 Cytokines Induce Atopic Dermatitis–Like Features on Epidermal Differentiation Proteins and Stratum Corneum Lipids in Human Skin Equivalents

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease in which the skin barrier function is disrupted. In this inflammatory AD environment, cytokines are upregulated, but the cytokine effect on the AD skin barrier is not fully understood. We aimed to investigate the influence of Th2 (IL-4, IL-13, IL-31) and pro-inflammatory (tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-α)) cytokines on epidermal morphogenesis, proliferation, differentiation, and stratum corneum lipid properties. For this purpose, we used the Leiden epidermal model (LEM) in which the medium was supplemented with these cytokines. Our results show that IL-4, IL-13, IL-31, and TNF-α induce spongiosis, augment TSLP secretion by keratinocytes, and alter early and terminal differentiation-protein expression in LEMs. TNF-α alone or in combination with Th2 cytokines decreases the level of long chain free fatty acids (FFAs) and ester linked ω-hydroxy (EO) ceramides, consequently affecting the lipid organization. IL-31 increases long chain FFAs in LEMs but decreases relative abundance of EO ceramides. These findings clearly show that supplementation with TNF-α and Th2 cytokines influence epidermal morphogenesis and barrier function. As a result, these LEMs show similar characteristics as found in AD skin and can be used as an excellent tool for screening formulations and drugs for the treatment of AD.

Reinvigorating cosmetic dermatology with the nanoparticle revolution

Reinvigorating cosmetic dermatology with the nanoparticle revolution

Application of attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared imaging and tape-stripping to investigate the three-dimensional distribution of exogenous chemicals and the molecular organization in Stratum corneum

Attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared spectroscopic imaging combined with tape-stripping is an advantageous approach to map the depth penetration and lateral distribution of topically applied chemicals in Stratum corneum (SC) and the conformational order of SC lipids. Tape-stripping progressively removes layers of SC, and chemical imaging provides spatially resolved information on the chemical composition of both the newly exposed SC surface and of the tapes used for stripping. The procedure is rapid, minimally invasive, and does not necessitate cross-sectioning of the skin. This approach offers a simple and direct way to determine the distribution of exogenous volatile and non-volatile chemicals in SC as a function of the chemical composition of the formulation and time, and the conformational order of SC lipids in native and topically treated skin. The procedure described here is well suited to address questions of relevance for the areas of drug delivery, dermatology, and skin care.

Rat epidermal keratinocyte organotypic culture (ROC) compared to human cadaver skin: The effect of skin permeation enhancers

The objective of this study was to evaluate the response of the rat epidermal keratinocyte organotypic culture (ROC) to permeation enhancers, and to compare these responses to those in human cadaver skin. Different concentrations of two mixtures for enhancing permeation were investigated, sodium dodecyl sulfate:phenyl piperazine and methyl pyrrolidone:dodecyl pyridinium chloride, using skin impedance spectroscopy and two experimental compounds, the lipophilic corticosterone and the hydrophilic sucrose. The chemical irritation effects of the formulations were evaluated based on leakage of lactate dehydrogenase enzyme (LDH) and cellular morphological perturbation. This study provides evidence for direct correlations of permeation/permeation, impedance/impedance and permation/impedance between the culture model and human skin. The only exception was the enhancer induced permeation of sucrose which was 1–40-fold higher in ROC compared to human skin, reflecting the more disordered lipid organization in stratum corneum and consequently the greater number of polar pathways. LDH leakage and cellular morphology indicated that it was possible to differentiate between safe permeation enhancers from irritating agents. This is not only the first study to have compared the enhancer effects on a cultured skin model with human skin, but also it has demonstrated enhancer induced irritation using an artificial skin model.

Aberrant Lipid Organization in Stratum Corneum of Patients with Atopic Dermatitis and Lamellar Ichthyosis

There are several skin diseases in which the lipid composition in the intercellular matrix of the stratum corneum is different from that of healthy human skin. It has been shown that patients suffering from atopic dermatitis have a reduced ceramide content in the stratum corneum, whereas in the stratum corneum of lamellar ichthyosis patients, the amount of free fatty acids is decreased and the ceramide profile is altered. Both patient groups also show elevated levels of transepidermal water loss indicative of an impaired barrier function. As ceramides and free fatty acids are essential for a proper barrier function, we hypothesized that changes in the composition of these lipids would be reflected in the lipid organization in stratum corneum of atopic dermatitis and lamellar ichthyosis patients. We investigated the lateral lipid packing using electron diffraction and the lamellar organization using freeze fracture electron microscopy. In atopic dermatitis stratum corneum, we found that, in comparison with healthy stratum corneum, the presence of the hexagonal lattice (gel phase) is increased with respect to the orthorhombic packing (crystalline phase). In lamellar ichthyosis stratum corneum, the hexagonal packing was predominantly present, whereas the orthorhombic packing was observed only occasionally. This is in good agreement with studies on stratum corneum lipid models that show that the presence of long-chain free fatty acids is involved in the formation of the orthorhombic packing. The results of this study also suggest that the ceramide composition is important for the lateral lipid packing. Finally, using freeze fracture electron microscopy, changes in the lamellar organization in stratum corneum of both patient groups could be observed.

Characterization of stratum corneum structure in reconstructed epidermis by X-ray diffraction.

The intercellular lipid regions in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin, form the major barrier for diffusion of substances through the skin. The barrier function of in vitro reconstructed epidermis is still impaired. With respect to further optimization of the model, it is necessary to characterize its stratum corneum lipid structure. In this study, small and wide angle X-ray diffraction were used to characterize the lipid organization in stratum corneum isolated from 14-day-old reconstructed epidermis. The measurements were carried out at room temperature, and subsequently as a function of temperature between 25 degrees C and 109 degrees C, followed by measurements after cooling to room temperature. The results of the X-ray diffraction measurements revealed the following in reconstructed epidermis. 1) The lamellar ordering of stratum corneum lipids was much lower than that observed in native stratum corneum. 2) Crystalline anhydrous cholesterol was present. 3) Orthorhombic packing was present, but the corresponding reflections were very weak. The orthorhombic packing disappeared between 30 degrees C and 45 degrees C. 4) A hexagonal packing was present and disappeared between 60 degrees C and 75 degrees C. 5) Soft keratin is present. 6) A higher extent of lamellar ordering could be achieved by heating to 109 degrees C and cooling down to room temperature. Analysis of SC lipids revealed the presence of high amounts of triglycerides, the level of which could be decreased by lowering the glucose content. However, modulation of culture medium composition did not significantly affect lipid lamellae structures or hydrocarbon chain packing.