Onshore Bar Migration Research Articles

Influence of the Initial Beach Profile on the Sediment Transport Processes During Post‐Storm Onshore Bar Migration

AbstractOnshore bar migration is a characteristic bar behavior during post‐storm beach recovery. The present large‐scale experiments, feature bichromatic wave groups over an initially steep (1:15), fully‐evolving beach. The same accretive wave condition is applied on two different post‐storm beach profiles featuring outer and inner bars. They are characterized by a larger (smaller) shoreline erosion and a larger (smaller) outer breaker bar located farther away from (closer to) the shoreline depending on the larger (smaller) energy of the storm condition. After a considerable post‐storm recovery time, similar equilibrium profiles are obtained, stressing the link between wave condition and equilibrium beach configuration. However, the evolution toward the equilibrium is different and depends on the initial morphological condition (post‐storm beach profile). After the larger storm, the morphological evolution is termed accretive merging (AM) and characterized by merging of the two bars (outer bar dissipation). After the smaller storm, the morphological evolution denoted as accretive non‐merging (AN) is characterized by onshore migration of the two bars with constant distance between them (bar maintenance). This study focuses on processes around the outer bar. During AN it features wave breaking, causing large suspended net offshore transport. AM, in contrast, mainly features bedload related to short wave asymmetries and low decomposed net transport rate magnitudes. High suspended net offshore transport occurs solely onshore of the outer bar trough. This causes filling of the bar trough and bar dissipation during migration. Additionally, processes around the outer bars are linked to accretion onshore of the bars and at the shoreline.

Near‐Bed Sediment Transport Processes During Onshore Bar Migration in Large‐Scale Experiments: Comparison With Offshore Bar Migration

AbstractDetailed information on nearshore sediment transport processes during onshore bar migration were obtained from large‐scale laboratory experiments with bichromatic wave groups on a relatively steep initial beach slope (1:15). Detailed measurements of velocity and sand concentration near the bed from shoaling up to the outer breaking zone including suspended sediment and sheet flow transport are presented. The analysis focuses on onshore migration under an accretive wave condition but comparison to an erosive condition highlights important differences. Decomposition shows that total transport mainly results from a balance of short wave‐related, bedload onshore transport and current‐related, suspended offshore transport. When comparing the accretive to the more energetic erosive condition, the balance shifts toward onshore transport, and onshore migration, because the short wave‐related transport does not decrease as much as the current‐related transport. This is related to the effects of skewness and asymmetry combined with less sediment suspension in the water column and undertow magnitude under the accretive condition. Transports from streaming in the wave boundary layer and from infragravity waves become visible but only play a subordinate role. Identified priorities for numerical model development include parametrization of wave nonlinearity effects and better description of wave breaking and its influences on sediment suspension.

Sound‐Side Inundation and Seaward Erosion of a Barrier Island During Hurricane Landfall

AbstractBarrier islands are especially vulnerable to hurricanes and other large storms, owing to their mobile composition, low elevations, and detachment from the mainland. Conceptual models of barrier‐island evolution emphasize ocean‐side processes that drive landward migration through overwash, inlet migration, and aeolian transport. In contrast, we found that the impact of Hurricane Dorian (2019) on North Core Banks, a 36‐km barrier island on the Outer Banks of North Carolina, was primarily driven by inundation of the island from Pamlico Sound, as evidenced by storm‐surge model results and observations of high‐water marks and wrack lines. Analysis of photogrammetry products from aerial imagery collected before and after the storm indicate the loss of about 18% of the subaerial volume of the island through the formation of over 80 erosional washout channels extending from the marsh and washover platform, through gaps in the foredunes, to the shoreline. The washout channels were largely co‐located with washover fans deposited by earlier events. Net seaward export of sediment resulted in the formation of deltaic bars offshore of the channels, which became part of the post‐storm berm recovery by onshore bar migration and partial filling of the washouts with washover deposits within 2 months. This event represents a volumetric setback in the overwash/rollover behavior required for barrier transgression, but the new ponds and lowland habitats may provide beneficial habit for endangered species and will likely persist for years.

Data related to "Influence of the Initial Beach Profile on the Sediment Transport Processes during Post-storm Onshore Bar Migration."

Data related to "Influence of the Initial Beach Profile on the Sediment Transport Processes during Post-storm Onshore Bar Migration."

Processes controlling river-mouth lagoon dynamics on high-energy mixed sand and gravel coasts

The river mouth lagoons of New Zealand's gravel-bed braided rivers are highly dynamic, responding to changes in waves and river flows at timescales of hours and days to years. Unlike other freshwater-dominated coastal wetlands and lagoons, they exist along open coasts that are typically retreating with cliffed hinterlands. These lagoons are common on New Zealand's high energy, coarse sediment coastlines and are known locally as ‘hāpua’. This paper employs field observations from the Hurunui hāpua, to investigate the main processes controlling the dynamics of hāpua lagoons. Based on two years of time-lapse imagery, plus concurrent wave, river flow and sea level data an improved conceptual model of lagoon dynamics was developed. The model describes how onshore bar migration of river sourced gravel and sand drives initial constriction/offsetting of the river mouth following floods. It also explains how gravel deposition in the lagoon reduces the threshold flow required to cause primary breach of the barrier opposite the point the river enters the lagoon. Three processes are identified which affect lagoon width: wave overwashing of the gravel barrier narrows the lagoon; migration of the highly dynamic lagoon outlet channel ‘resets’ the barrier position to seaward; and river floods occurring while the outlet channel is offset from the river flush sediment from the lagoon system, eroding its bed and banks. Both processes affecting lagoon widening rely on lagoon outlet channel migration, indicating that outlet channel dynamics are an important control on lagoon size.

Breaker bar morphodynamics under erosive and accretive wave conditions in large-scale experiments

Differences between breaker bar evolution under high energy (erosive) and subsequent mild energy (accretive) wave conditions are studied based on three data sets from large-scale morphodynamic experiments. Under erosive wave conditions, a clear linear relationship between the height and the cross-shore location of the breaker bar is observed. The similar cross-shore shape of the sediment transport magnitudes underlines the similarity of the bar evolution under erosive wave conditions. Under the subsequent accretive wave conditions, two major evolution patterns are observed during onshore migration (decaying or non-decaying breaker bar). In the presented data, the feedback between the wave conditions and the beach morphology determines if a bar decays during onshore migration. This feedback involves that the wave breaking location depends on the morphology and on the wave conditions resulting in differences in sediment transport patterns between the two types of onshore bar migration. A comparison against numerous other experimental beach profile data sets strongly supports the linear relationship between bar height and bar location under erosive wave conditions. For accretive wave conditions, the number of comparable data sets is very limited. The comparison underlines that breaker bar evolution under accretive wave conditions cannot be condensed to a single pattern as under erosive wave conditions.

Onshore sandbar migration in the surf zone: New insights into the wave‐induced sediment transport mechanisms

AbstractWe present a novel process‐based morphodynamic model, which includes transport processes due to both velocity and acceleration skewness and a new formulation for intrawave motions, that successfully simulates observations of onshore sandbar migration. Results confirm findings of previous studies, in which each process was considered separately and in which sediment transport was computed from the observed water motion. However, our results indicate that accounting for the joint action of both velocity and acceleration skewnesses causes major improvement of the modeled onshore bar migration and is essential to accurately model the evolution of the entire cross‐shore bottom profile, when compared with observations. We also demonstrate that the morphodynamics in the shoaling zone are dominated by velocity skewness (bed shear stresses), while sediment transport induced by acceleration skewness (pressure gradients) controls the morphodynamics in the inner surf zone.

Nearshore sediment resuspension and bed morphology.

Thompson, C.E.L., Kassem, H. and Williams, J., 2013. BARDEX II: Nearshore sediment resuspension and bed morphology. In: Conley, D.C., Masselink, G., Russell, P.E. and O’Hare, T.J. (eds.), Proceedings 12 th International Coastal Symposium (Plymouth, England), Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 65, pp. 1593-1598, ISSN 0749-0208. Sediment resuspension in the region outside the surf zone is known to contribute to the morphological response of barrier beaches to wave forcing, such as onshore bar migration processes. However, few measurements in this region exist, limiting our ability to quantify its contribution. These processes are complicated by the presence of bedforms in the nearshore, which alter the sand transport processes while modifying bed roughness in a complex feedback mechanism. The Hydralab IV funded BARDEX II experiments, which took place in the Delta Flume in 2012, were used to provide measurements of these processes in the nearshore of a sandy barrier beach (D50 = 0.42mm) under a range of wave conditions (Hs = 0.3 - 0.8 m; Tp = 4 – 12 s) and water levels, through deployment of a suite of acoustic instruments measuring flow velocity, near-bed turbulence, sediment resuspension profiles and bed morphology in crosssection and plan view. Initial findings indicate that sediment suspension in the nearshore appears to be controlled by a combination of near-bed turbulent bursting processes which results in near-instantaneous low concentration suspensions restricted to the bottom boundary layer, and vortex shedding from bedforms which results in higher concentration suspensions which are larger in scale than vertical eddy sizes, and perpetuate outside of the bottom boundary layer.

Refining the model of barrier island formation along a paraglacial coast in the Gulf of Maine

Details of the internal architecture and local geochronology of Plum Island, the longest barrier in the Gulf of Maine, have refined our understanding of barrier island formation in paraglacial settings. Ground-penetrating radar and shallow-seismic profiles coupled with sediment cores and radiocarbon dates provide an 8000-year evolutionary history of this barrier system in response to changes in sediment sources and supply rates as well as variability in the rate of sea-level change. The barrier sequence overlies tills of Wisconsinan and Illinoian glaciations as well as late Pleistocene glaciomarine clay deposited during the post-glacial sea-level highstand at approximately 17ka. Holocene sediment began accumulating at the site of Plum Island at 7–8ka, in the form of coarse fluvial channel-lag deposits related to the 50-m wide erosional channel of the Parker River that carved into underlying glaciomarine deposits during a lower stand of sea level. Plum Island had first developed in its modern location by ca. 3.6ka through onshore migration and vertical accretion of reworked regressive and lowstand deposits. The prevalence of southerly, seaward-dipping layers indicates that greater than 60% of the barrier lithosome developed in its modern location through southerly spit progradation, consistent with a dominantly longshore transport system driven by northeast storms. Thinner sequences of northerly, landward-dipping clinoforms represent the northern recurve of the prograding spit. A 5–6-m-thick inlet-fill sequence was identified overlying the lower stand fluvial deposit; its stratigraphy captures events of channel migration, ebb-delta breaching, onshore bar migration, channel shoaling and inlet infilling associated with the migration and eventual closure of the inlet. This inlet had a maximum cross-sectional area of 2800m2 and was active around 3.5–3.6ka. Discovery of this inlet suggests that the tidal prism was once larger than at present. Bay infilling, driven by the import of sediment into the backbarrier environment through tidal inlets, as well as minor sediment contribution from local rivers, led to a vast reduction in the bay tidal prism. This study demonstrates that, prior to about 3ka, Plum Island and its associated marshes, tidal flats, and inlets were in a paraglacial environment; that is, their main source of sediment was derived from the erosion and reworking of glaciogenic deposits. Since that time, Plum Island has been in a state of dynamic equilibrium with its non-glacial sediment sources and therefore can be largely considered to be in a stable, “post-paraglacial” state. This study is furthermore the first in the Gulf of Maine to show that spit accretion and inlet processes were the dominant mechanisms in barrier-island formation and thus serves as a foundation for future investigations of barrier development in response to backbarrier infilling.

Onshore Bar Migration in a Fetch/Limited Strong Wind Bay

WONG, H and STEPHENSON, W., 2011. Onshore Bar Migration in a Fetch/Limited Strong Wing Bay. In: Micallef, A. (ed.), MCRR3-2010 Conference Proceedings, Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 61, pp. 458-469. Grosseto, Tuscany, Italy, ISSN 0749-0208.This paper investigates bar migration in a fetch limited strong wind bay (Seaford Beach SE Australia). Onshore bar migration on open ocean beaches is dependant on long period swell wave and occurs during low energy conditions. However, in a fetch limited environment such waves are absent and most studies suggest that during low energy conditions the beach remains in an arrested state (Jackson et al. 2002). This paper spans a three month study period (15th March – 8th June 2008). Measurement of near shore morphology and wind data were collected. The two bars at Seaford behaved very differently; both onshore and offshore migration was detected during the three recorded storm events. The paper found that, firstly, wave breaking was incomplete in the middle bar during event 1 — the inner bar migrated offshore. Secondly wave breaking in the middle bar was almost complete during event 2 and the inner bar migrated onshore. Thirdly when wave breaking was complete in the middle bar during event 3 — the inner bar remained arrested on some profiles but bar height increased on others. The wave steepness threshold for onshore migration of the inner bar was parameterized s 0.041 – 0.042. Beach sediment modeling in fetch limited strong wind bays remains understudied. Our results should help to improve the predictive capability of beach sediment budgets in fetch limited strong wind bays.

Numerical Modeling of Breaking Waves and Cross-Shore Currents on Barred Beaches

A process-based numerical model has been used to study nearshore hydrodynamics on barred beaches. A laboratory experiment with an offshore bar migration case followed by an onshore bar migration is simulated. A new mechanism is incorporated in the model accounting for the breaking-wave persistence improving model performance for wave properties, particularly in the bar-trough region. A cross-shore variation of the breaking-wave parameter is introduced to the dissipation model. The effects of the surface shape parameter and a roller lag on radiation stresses and mean water-level predictions are investigated and found to improve the mean water-level predictions. The cross-shore variation of the momentum balance is presented to illustrate the variation of forcing for the undertow current. The persistence length and the roller lag mechanisms are shown to be important for predictions of the undertow currents on barred beaches and the current predictions are improved once both methods are used.

Sediment transport associated with morphological beach changes forced by irregular asymmetric, skewed waves

[1] The waveshape effects on sediment transport are investigated for cross-shore beach profile changes. This study is based on experiments performed in the Laboratoire des Ecoulements Geophysiques et Industriels wave flume for irregular waves. The interest of such experiments resides in presenting complex combinations of wave skewness and asymmetry in bed load, ripple, and sheet flow regimes. Net sediment transport rates on typical beach morphodynamics are analyzed in regard to wave skewness and asymmetry, undertow, and ripple occurrence. Onshore bar migration is mainly associated with onshore-directed sediment transport, whereas terrace profile and offshore bar formation correspond to offshore sediment transport. As for natural beaches, energetic (moderate) wave climates mostly induce offshore (onshore) sediment fluxes. For a given significant wave height, an increase (decrease) in the wave climate peak period is associated with an increase (decrease) in wave skewness and leads mostly to offshore (onshore) sediment fluxes. The experiments are fully characterized by unsteady behavior. Consequently, several conditions exhibit phase-lag effects where the sediment is mobilized by the wave crest and transported by the following trough, which produces a net offshore transport even for a weak undertow. The presence of ripples clearly contributes to enhance this behavior. An original concept, due to its application to skewed asymmetric irregular waves, presents the important interaction between wave nonlinearities driving the sediment fluxes. The net sediment transport rate under strongly skewed waves is either offshore directed due to phase-lag effects or onshore directed when the wave asymmetry is large enough. Both these mechanisms probably largely contribute to bar formation and migration.

WAVE BOUNDARY LAYER HYDRODYNAMICS DURING ONSHORE BAR MIGRATION

To study onshore bar migration and the accompanying intra-wave sediment transport a wave flume experiment was conducted. The wave flume had a rigid bottom with a single bar profile. The focus of the experiment was to measure the hydrodynamics in the wave bottom boundary layer. The results show that the skewness of bottom stress is not only related to wave skewness but also to wave asymmetry.

A behavior-oriented dynamic model for sandbar migration and 2DH evolution

[1] A nonlinear model is developed to study the time‐dependent relationship between the alongshore variability of a sandbar, a(t), and alongshore‐averaged sandbar position, xc(t). Sediment transport equations are derived from energetics‐based formulations. A link between this continuous physical representation and a parametric form describing the migration of sandbars of constant shape is established through a simple transformation of variables. The model is driven by offshore wave conditions. The parametric equations are dynamically coupled such that changes in one term (i.e., xc) drive changes in the other (i.e., a(t)). The model is tested on 566 days of data from Palm Beach, New South Wales, Australia. Using weighted nonlinear least squares to estimate best fit model coefficients, the model explained 49% and 41% of the variance in measured xc and a(t), respectively. Comparisons against a 1‐D horizontal (1DH) version of the model showed significant improvements when the 2DH terms were included (1DH and 2DH Brier skill scores were −0.12 and 0.42, respectively). Onshore bar migration was not predicted in the 1DH model, while the 2DH model correctly predicted onshore migration in the presence of 2DH morphology and allowed the bar to remain closer to shore for a given amount of breaking, providing an important hysteresis to the system. The model is consistent with observations that active bar migration occurs under breaking waves with onshore migration occurring at timescales of days to weeks and increasing 2DH morphology, while offshore migration occurs rapidly under high waves and coincides with a reduction in 2DH morphology. Citation: Splinter, K. D., R. A. Holman, and N. G. Plant (2011), Abehavior‐orienteddynamicmodelforsandbarmigrationand2DH evolution, J. Geophys. Res., 116, C01020, doi:10.1029/2010JC006382.

Evolution of Gravel Beach Profiles

An experiment was conducted in a wave flume to examine the processes of gravel beach profile evolution under irregular waves. Two erosion tests were performed on a steep slope of 1/2 with two different significant wave heights. An accretion test was conducted on a mild slope of 1/5 until its profile became quasi-equilibrium. Another test was initiated with a gravel bar constructed at the toe of the equilibrium profile. The bar migrated onshore and resulted in the seaward shift of the equilibrium profile. Quasi-equilibrium profiles observed after 18 or 36 bursts of 400-s wave action were similar but affected by the differences in the wave height and initial profile. A numerical model developed for damage progression of stone armor layers is shown to predict the profile changes of the two erosion tests. The bed load formula used in the model is adjusted to better predict the onshore bar migration and the accretional change on the mild slope. More extensive comparisons of the numerical model with data will b...

Dynamics of single-barred embayed beaches

The dynamics of single submerged sandbars of two artificial embayed beaches (La Barceloneta and Bogatell, Barcelona, NW Mediterranean) has been studied with a video-recorded data set of 4.3years. The alongshore-averaged cross-shore migration, the orientation with respect the shoreline and the sinuosity of the barlines have been analyzed and related to wave conditions, alongshore sediment transport and shoreline variability. In general, the submerged bars follow the general cyclic morphological behaviour observed in natural beaches, switching among the four intermediate morphodynamic states, but the studied beaches can be arrested during long periods of low wave conditions. The dominant up-state transition in Barcelona beaches during storms is the transition toward the rhythmic bar and beach state, the complete morphodynamic reset (longshore bar and trough state) only occurring during extreme wave events. The cross-shore migration of bars is dominated by the weekly and interannual components. The interannual component shows an onshore bar migration trend at both beaches, in contrast with the net offshore migration observed in multibarred open beaches. Bar disposition is located progressively seaward in the dominant alongshore transport direction (i.e., oblique with respect to the shoreline). At La Barceloneta beach, shoreline and barline orientations change consistently and a significant correlation between the accumulated alongshore sediment transport and the associated change in bar orientation has been found, suggesting that alongshore transport can play a significant role in barline orientation. Finally, bar sinuosity increases during eastern storms in both beaches. This indicates that the formation of crescentic bars occurs for approximately shore-normal waves. Some of the differences observed in bar morphology and mobility in the two studied beaches are related to their different level of protection with respect to the incident waves (beach indentation).

Short‐term to decadal‐scale onshore bar migration and shoreline changes in the vicinity of a megatidal ebb delta

Swash bar development has been well documented from coasts with low to moderate tidal ranges, while studies of the effects of these forms on the morphology and dynamics of the adjacent shore in large tide range environments are rare. The analysis of sequential vertical aerial photographs was combined with field work in order to highlight the effects of swash bar development on the adjacent shoreline in the vicinity of a megatidal inlet (mean spring tidal range of 11 m). Swash bars are observed to form on the ebb tidal delta and to migrate landward before welding onto the coast. A close relationship was noticed between the position of the swash bar and shoreline dynamics. The bar protects the shore against wave attack in a sedimentary system controlled by longshore transport. This protective role is, however, modulated by the large tidal range. As the bar migrates upward toward the high‐tide level and the subaerial beach, it develops morphologically into a transverse form that acts as a cross‐shore obstacle to longshore sediment transport, thus resulting in shoreline accretion updrift and in strong erosion downdrift. This disturbance may persist for years because of the relatively slow speed of movement of the bar at this stage, an aspect characteristic of large tide range environments. This pattern of behavior differs fundamentally from that documented in the literature where the perturbation of the longshore sediment transport occurs over shorter periods. An original conceptual model of swash bar morphodynamics and repercussions on the adjacent shoreline for this megatidal environment is proposed.

Nearshore bar migration and sediment-induced buoyancy effects

A 1-D General Ocean Turbulence Model that includes the effects of sediment-induced stratification is shown to simulate the observed onshore and offshore migration of a nearshore sandbar. The only two free parameters of the model, the bed reference concentration and the sediment diffusivity, are taken from the literature, rather than tuned to the data used here. The model results suggest that predictions of onshore bar migration, in which wave-induced sediment transport confined to within a few centimeters of the bottom dominates, are not greatly affected by accounting for buoyancy effects. The model results also suggest that both mean flows and waves transport sediment during offshore bar migration, with different components of transport dominating at different cross-shore locations across the bar-trough bathymetry. Neglecting the effects of sediment-induced stratification results in higher model skill during the largest waves, likely because the excess turbulence production simulated by the non-stratified model is counterbalanced by neglected breaking-wave-generated turbulence. Considering both onshore and offshore migration, the model that includes sediment-induced stratification has higher skill than the model without stratification.

Seasonal-scale nearshore morphological evolution: Field observations and numerical modeling

A coupled waves–currents-bathymetric evolution model (DELFT-3D) is compared with field measurements to test hypotheses regarding the processes responsible for alongshore varying nearshore morphological changes at seasonal time scales. A 2001 field experiment, along the beaches adjacent to Grays Harbor, Washington, USA, captured the transition between the high-energy erosive conditions of winter and the low-energy beach-building conditions typical of summer. The experiment documented shoreline progradation on the order of 10–20 m and on average approximately 70 m of onshore sandbar migration during a four-month period. Significant alongshore variability was observed in the morphological response of the sandbar over a 4 km reach of coast with sandbar movement ranging from 20 m of offshore migration to over 175 m of onshore bar migration, the largest seasonal-scale onshore migration event observed in a natural setting. Both observations and model results suggest that, in the case investigated here, alongshore variations in initial bathymetry are primarily responsible for the observed alongshore variable morphological changes. Alongshore varying incident hydrodynamic forcing, occasionally significant in this region due to a tidal inlet and associated ebb-tidal delta, was relatively minor during the study period and appears to play an insignificant role in the observed alongshore variability in sandbar behavior at kilometer-scale. The role of fully three-dimensional cell circulation patterns in explaining the observed morphological variability also appears to be minor, at least in the case investigated here.

Cross-shore sediment transport and morphological response on a macrotidal beach with intertidal bar morphology, Truc Vert, France

A 3-week field investigation was conducted on a macrotidal beach with intertidal bar morphology with the aim of quantifying cross-shore sediment transport rates and beach response. Cross-shore transport rates were estimated in four different ways: (1) net transport from bed-level changes; (2) measured suspended sediment fluxes; (3) sediment fluxes associated with migrating wave ripples; and (4) total load transport predicted using the Bailard [Bailard, J.A. 1981. An energetics total load sediment transport model for a plane sloping beach. Journal of Geophysical Research, 86, 10938–10954.] model. Excellent qualitative agreement was found between the different measures under all recorded wave conditions, with onshore (offshore) sediment transport and beach accretion (erosion) observed under low-to- moderate (high) wave conditions. The agreement is due to the strong correspondence between the direction of mean cross-shore flows across the intertidal bar surface and that of the sediment transport. Significant onshore mean flows ( u = 0.1–0.2 m s − 1 ) were persistently observed under low wave conditions, and these were strongest in shallow water depths ( h < 1 m). These flows are attributed to the (weak) three-dimensional water circulation in the surf zone associated with the intertidal bar-rip morphology and caused onshore bar migration. Under high wave conditions, on the other hand, strong mean cross-shore flows ( u = 0.2–0.4 m s − 1 ), due to the bed return flow, were consistently directed offshore and resulted in bar destruction. Under low wave conditions, vertically-integrated suspended fluxes, ripple transport rates and predicted total transport fluxes were remarkably similar, but when the fluxes are integrated over a complete tidal cycle, they are considerably smaller than that derived from bed-level changes based on low tide surveys.