Modern Coastal Systems Research Articles

Implications for the resilience of modern coastal systems derived from mesoscale barrier dynamics at Fire Island, New York

Abstract. Understanding the response of coastal barriers to future changes in rates of sea level rise, sediment availability, and storm intensity/frequency is essential for coastal planning, including socioeconomic and ecological management. Identifying drivers of past changes in barrier morphology, as well as barrier sensitivity to these forces, is necessary to accomplish this. Using remote sensing, field, and laboratory analyses, we reconstruct the mesoscale (decades–centuries) evolution of central Fire Island, a portion of a 50 km barrier island fronting Long Island, New York, USA. We find that the configuration of the modern beach and foredune at Fire Island is radically different from the system's relict morphostratigraphy. Central Fire Island is comprised of at least three formerly inlet-divided rotational barriers with distinct subaerial beach and dune–ridge systems that were active prior to the mid-19th century. Varying morphologic states reflected in the relict barriers (e.g., progradational and transgressive) contrast with the modern barrier, which is dominated by a tall and nearly continuous foredune and is relatively static, except for erosion and drowning of its fringing marsh. We suggest that this state shift indicates a transition from a regime dominated by inlet-mediated gradients in alongshore sediment availability to one where human impacts exerted greater influence on island evolution from the late 19th century onward. The retention of some geomorphic capital in Fire Island's relict subaerial features combined with its static nature renders the barrier increasingly susceptible to narrowing and passive submergence. This may lead to an abrupt geomorphic state shift in the future, a veiled vulnerability that may also exist in other stabilized barriers.

Coastal response to Holocene Sea-level change: A case study from Singapore

The deceleration of early to mid-Holocene (10–7 cal. ka BP) relative sea-level rise (RSLR) played a key role in transforming coastal systems from estuaries to deltas. Palaeoenvironmental reconstruction of coastal evolution provide case studies that can help project the response of modern coastal systems to future RSLR. The response of deltas to future RSLR is particularly important to South, Southeast and East Asia which collectively contain 71% of the global coastal population living below 10 m in elevation and 75% of the global coastal floodplain population. However, few Holocene studies of equatorial delta systems exist.Here, we investigate the early to mid-Holocene coastal response to decelerating rates of RSLR through paleoenvironmental reconstruction of the Kallang River Basin, Singapore. We produce a multi-proxy (sedimentology, stable carbon isotope, XRF elemental ratios) record from sediment core MSBH01B to compare with the Holocene relative sea-level record for Singapore. We identify different phases of coastal response through the interplay between accommodation space (A) driven predominantly by RSLR and sedimentation rate (S).In the early Holocene rapid RSLR coupled with low sedimentation rates (A/S = 5.1 ± 0.3) led to mangrove disappearance in the Kallang River Basin coastal area within ∼300 years (9.5–9.2 cal. ka BP). Estuarine sediments were deposited from 9.2 to 8.8 cal. ka BP during continued high rates of RSLR coupled with highest sedimentation rates (A/S = 3.1 ± 0.8) as the coastline retreated. Prodelta sediments were deposited from 8.8 to 8.2 cal. ka BP during decreasing rate of RSLR and high sedimentation rates (A/S = 4.6 ± 5.2). Delta front sediments were deposited during this delta initiation phase from 8.2 to 7.6 cal. ka BP as during a period of low and consistent RSLR and sedimentation rates (A/S = 1.7 ± 0.2). Finally, a prograding delta started forming from 7.6 to 7.2 cal. ka BP during lowest rates of RSLR and sedimentation rates (A/S = 1.7 ± 0.2). Our record provides a case study of possible responses of modern delta systems under a spectrum of predicted sea-level rise scenarios and accompanying sedimentation rates. This study provides an estimated threshold A/S value of 1.7 for coastal retreat to inform policy and mitigation/adaptation measures for Singapore and a simple methodology to obtain local threshold values of other equatorial cities built on floodplain and/or delta systems.

Impact of Late Quaternary climatic fluctuations on coastal systems: Evidence from high-resolution geophysical, sedimentological and geochronological data from the Java Island

The major climatic oscillations during the Quaternary Period significantly influenced the evolution and distribution of ancient and modern coastal systems. Here we investigate the morphology and sedimentary infilling of submerged Late Quaternary incised valleys along the northern coast of Java Island (Indonesia) using high-resolution geophysical, sedimentological and geochronological data. Our results indicate that the spatial development and morphology of the incised valleys are predominantly controlled by Quaternary glacial–interglacial eustatic fluctuations, within a marked subsiding setting. The valleys were incised during prominent Quaternary lowstands and most of the valley fill was emplaced during the last postglacial sea level rise. The valley fill forms a transgressive succession, consisting mainly of fluvial deposits at the base (possibly amalgamated from older sequences) overlain by shallow marine sediments and capped by hemipelagic deposits. The valley-fill architecture is strongly dependent on the valley morphology (depth of incision, width of the valleys, and extent of the intertidal zone). The shallow marine deposits contained within the narrow and linear valleys are mostly aggrading muds. The vertical incision and valley formation was chiefly controlled by the extent of glacial sea-level fluctuations. The studied sections represent the continental-offshore extension of a paleodeltaic system. The implication of our work is that even in predominantly enclosed shallow marine systems that are located distal to the shelf break, the response of the sedimentary system and ensuing stratigraphic configuration can be effectively impacted by the rapid and abrupt Quaternary global climatic transition and eustatic sea-level fluctuations.

Coastal hypoxia and eutrophication as key controls on benthic release and water column dynamics of iron and manganese

AbstractContinental shelves are a major source of iron (Fe) and manganese (Mn) to marine waters. Here, we investigate controls on benthic release of Fe and Mn and the impact on the water column in the Baltic Sea. We find high in situ benthic release rates of dissolved Fe and Mn at seasonally hypoxic sites (bottom water oxygen between 0–63 μmol L−1) receiving high inputs of organic matter. We find that benthic Fe and Mn release is sensitive to bottom water oxygen concentrations. Benthic Fe release is likely additionally controlled by Fe–sulfur redox chemistry in the surface sediment. For Mn, benthic release correlates positively with Mn oxide availability in the surface sediment. Benthic release contributes to high dissolved Fe and Mn concentrations in the water column and is amplified by repeated cycling of Fe and Mn between the sediment and overlying water through benthic release, oxidation in the water column, deposition as metal oxides, followed by reductive dissolution. Most water column Fe (∼ 80%) is present in particulate form near the seafloor. In contrast to Fe, a large percentage of the Mn remains dissolved (∼ 50%). We show that easily reducible Fe and Mn oxides are key forms of particulate Fe and Mn in suspended matter. The Baltic Sea represents a highly eutrophic, low oxygen end‐member when compared to other modern coastal systems. Our results imply that, upon continued eutrophication and deoxygenation of the coastal ocean, benthic release of dissolved Fe and Mn from continental shelves could become greater than previously thought.

Reef response to sea-level and environmental changes in the Central South Pacific over the past 6000 years

Geological records of coastal system evolution during past higher and/or rising sea levels provide an important baseline for developing projections regarding the response of modern coastal systems to future sea-level rise. The mid-late Holocene corresponds to the most recent window into natural variability prior to the Anthropocene and involves slow-rate and low-amplitude sea-level changes that were mostly governed by a limited glacio-eustatic contribution, most likely sourced from Antarctica, and ‘glacial isostatic adjustment’ processes. This paper documents in unprecedented detail the response of coral reefs and coastal systems to changing accommodation space in relation to mid-late Holocene sea-level changes in French Polynesia. The sea-level curve that underpins this study has a global significance and documents a single short-lived sea-level highstand between 4.10 and 3.40 kyr BP. The amplitude of the highstand is less than one metre, within the range of the predicted sea level at the end of the current century. The reported relative sea-level changes are characterized by slow rates ranging from a few tens of millimetres per year to up to 2.5 mm/yr and by significant sea-level stability (stillstands) lasting more than a century and up to 250 years, defining a step-like pattern. Sea-level variability probably driven by climatic oscillations on interannual to millennial time scales is evidenced during the entire time window. The detailed reconstruction of reef development over the last 6000 years brings valuable information regarding coral reef dynamics and coastal processes during periods of higher sea level and wave energy regimes. The persistence of stable and optimal depositional environments over the last 6000 years is demonstrated by the constant overall composition and diversity of reef communities and the almost continuous development of coral microatolls. The facies distribution as well as the lateral extension and shift of facies belts have been governed by variations in accommodation space, which are controlled by relative sea-level changes and antecedent topography. The widespread development of mid-late Holocene reef deposits in coastal areas suggests that they have played a prominent role in global processes related to the formation and shaping of modern islands. • Coral reef responses to slow-rate, low-amplitude, high-frequency sea-level changes. • Continuous reef development over the last 6000 years in optimal conditions. • Mid-late Holocene coral assemblages similar to their modern counterparts. • Facies distribution governed by variations in accommodation space. • Prominent role played by reef deposits in the formation and shaping of modern islands.

Seismic stratigraphic framework of the continental shelf offshore Delmarva, U.S.A.: Implications for Mid-Atlantic Bight Evolution since the Pliocene

Understanding how past coastal systems have evolved is critical to predicting future coastal change. Using over 12,000 trackline kilometers of recently collected, co-located multi-channel boomer, sparker and chirp seismic reflection profile data integrated with previously collected borehole and vibracore data, we define the upper (< 115 m below mean lower low water) seismic stratigraphic framework offshore of the Delmarva Peninsula, USA. Twelve seismic units and 11 regionally extensive unconformities (U1-U11) were mapped over 5900 km2 of North America's Mid-Atlantic continental shelf. We interpret U3, U7, U9, U11 as transgressive ravinement surfaces, while U1,2,4,5,6,8,10 are subaerial unconformities illustrating distinct periods of lower sea-level. Based on areal distribution, stratigraphic relationships and dating results (Carbon 14 and amino acid racemization estimates) from earlier vibracore and borehole studies, we interpret the infilled channels as late Neogene and Quaternary courses of the Susquehanna, Potomac, Rappahannock, York, James rivers and tributaries, and a broad flood plain. These findings indicate that the region's geologic framework is more complex than previously thought and that Pleistocene paleochannels are abundant in the Mid-Atlantic. This study synthesizes and correlates the findings of other Atlantic Margin studies and establishes a large-scale Quaternary framework that enables more detailed stratigraphic analysis in the future. Such work has implications for inner continental shelf systems tract evolution, the relationship between antecedent geology and modern coastal systems, assessments of eustacy, glacial isostatic adjustment, and other processes and forcings that play a role in passive margin evolution.

Modern coastal systems of Qatar as analogues for arid climate carbonate reservoirs: improving geological and reservoir modelling

Maximizing recovery in oil and gas fields relies on geological models that realistically portray the spatial complexity, composition, and properties of reservoir units. Present day arid climate coastal systems, like the coastline of Qatar provide analogues for depositional and diagenetic processes that control reservoir quality in ancient reservoirs. Many major reservoirs in Qatar and the Middle East formed under conditions that are remarkably similar to those shaping the Qatari coastlines of today. Major controls on coastal sedimentation patterns are: 1) coastline orientation, 2) wind, wave and tidal energy, 3) climate, 4) relative sea level, 5) depositional relief, and 6) sediment sources. Strong NW prevailing winds (Shamal winds) drive shallow marine circulation patterns, creating four very distinct depositional profiles: windward, leeward, oblique, and protected. Windward coastlines are marked by reef development and intertidal sheet and beach sands. The leeward coastal profile is dominated by an eolian sediment supply, as sand dunes are blown into the sea. Along windward and oblique coastlines, hardgrounds (beachrock) stabilize circulation patterns, creating mud-prone back beach areas of micobial mats and mangroves. Protected coastlines are characterized by finer-grained peneroplid sands and low-relief beaches. Grain size, composition, and dimensions of coastal sands vary due to wave energy. Coastal deposits are equally affected by high-frequency oscillations in sea level. Approximately 6000 years ago, sea level was about 2 to 4 metres higher than it is currently and the Qatari coastline was up to 10 km inland. Most coastal deposits and sabkhas are relics of this ancient highstand in sea level. Punctuated sea-level drops to present-day level have led to the formation of seaward-stepping beach spit systems. Sedimentation patterns and their diagenetic overprint were studied in detail at the coastal sabkha of Mesaieed, which represents an oblique coastal system relatively to the predominant wind direction. Detailed field mapping, radiocarbon age dating analyses, and the integration of geotechnical borehole data, as well as data from numerous shallow pits allowed reconstructing the thickness of the Holocene, the dating and spatial reconstruction of the progradational pattern of the beach spits relative to the varying sea level, and the mapping of the amount and distribution of porosity destroying gypsum. The observed spatial complexity and heterogeneity of modern coastal systems are important aspects to be considered for conditioning three-dimensional geological models. Modern depositional systems along the Qatar coastline, like the one studied at the Mesaieed sabkha, are particularly useful as analogs for conditioning subsurface data sets in geologic (static) and reservoir (dynamic) models.

Reconstructing the history of euxinia in a coastal sea

Areas of the coastal ocean where oxygen is low or absent in bottom waters, so-called dead zones, are expanding worldwide (Diaz and Rosenberg, 2008). Increased inputs of nutrients from land are enhancing algal blooms, and the sinking of this organic matter to the seafl oor and subsequent decay leads to a high oxygen demand in bottom waters. Depending on the physical characteristics of the coastal system, this may initiate periodic or permanent water column anoxia and euxinia, with the latter term implying the presence of free sulfi de (Kemp et al., 2009). Global warming is expected to exacerbate the situation, through its effects on oxygen solubility and water column stratifi cation. In many modern coastal systems, anthropogenic changes are superimposed on natural variation and lack of knowledge of such variation makes the prediction of future changes in water column oxygen challenging (e.g., Grantham et al., 2004). That natural drivers alone can be the cause of widespread coastal anoxia is evident from studies of greenhouse periods in Earth’s past, including the oceanic anoxic events of the Cretaceous and Toarcian (Jenkyns, 2010).

Sea level history of the northern Gulf of Mexico coast and sea level rise scenarios for the near future

The sea level history of the northern Gulf of Mexico during recent geologic time has closely followed global eustatic sea level change. Regional effects due to tectonics and glacio-isostasy have been minimal. Over the past several million years the northern Gulf coast, like most stable coastal regions of the globe, has experienced major swings of sea level below and above present level, accompanied by major shifts in shoreline position. During advances of the northern hemisphere ice sheets, sea level dropped by more than 100 m, extending the shoreline in places more than 100 km onto the shelf. For much of the period since the last glacial maximum (LGM), 20,000 years ago, the region has seen rates of sea level rise far in excess of those experienced during the period represented by long-term tide gauges. The regional tide gauge record reveals that sea level has been rising at about 2 mm/year for the past century, while the average rate of rise since the LGM has been 6 mm/year, with some periods of abrupt rise exceeding 40 mm/year. During times of abrupt rise, Gulf of Mexico shorelines were drowned in place and overstepped. The relative stability of modern coastal systems is due primarily to stabilization of sea level approximately 6,000 years ago, resulting in the slow rates of rise experienced during historic time. Recent model projections of sea level rise over the next century and beyond may move northern Gulf coastal environments into a new equilibrium regime, more similar to that experienced during the deglaciation than that which has existed during historic time.