AbstractCotton was acrylamidomethylated by applying N‐methylol acrylamide to it with the aid of a mild acid catalyst. When the molal ratio of N‐methylol acrylamide to anhydroglucose exceeded about 0.2, the efficiency of this reaction was suddenly reduced and the variation of density with addon departed from linearity. These and other available facts indicated that only one of the three hydroxyls in cellulose, probably the one in the 6‐position, was involved in the acrylamidomethyl ether formation and that cotton was about 20% accessible to this reagent. When acrylamidomethylated cotton was treated with free radical or alkaline catalysts, the double bonds became partially saturated and the mechanical properties changed in a spectacular manner. In particular, the resilience of the fabric, as measured by crease recovery, was improved. Analysis of double bond reaction at various levels of acrylamidomethyl content of the fabric indicated that free radical catalysis caused homopolymerization of the pendant double bonds, that alkaline catalysis in the presence of water resulted in Michael condensation between double bonds and the hydroxyls of cellulose, and that these two reactions competed with each other when the alkaline aftertreatment was conducted in dry state. These reactions crosslinked the fabric, and the crosslink content could be calculated from the difference of molal methylene and double bond contents.The crease recovery reached the maximum attainable value characteristic for the method of catalysis when the ratio of accessible anhydroglucose units to crosslinks was 4 to 5. When the crosslinked fabrics were hydrolyzed in acid, the crease recovery increment produced by crosslinking was eliminated after about half of the crosslinks were broken. The residual crosslinks did not contribute to crease recovery. Dry state crosslinking treatments reduced the moisture regain, increased the density, and had no effect on the x‐ray pattern. In contrast to this, wet state crosslinking in‐increased the moisture regain, changed the x‐ray pattern, and, under certain conditions, reduced the density. These results indicate that wet state crosslinking increased the amorphous portion of cotton. Wet state crosslinking lead to higher wet than dry crease recovery whereas the opposite was true for dry state crosslinking. Although the alkaline catalyst did not degrade the fabric, alkali catalyzed crosslinking substantially reduced the tensile strength. Free radical catalysis was more favorable for tensile strength, in spite of the fact that it degraded the fabric in the absence of crosslinking agent.
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