Men's Clothing Research Articles

GIRLISH SONGS OF THE YOUTH OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE TIMES OF 1900 - 1927 OF THE DARAVATSKY VILLAGE COUNCIL OF KOZHUKHOV VOLOST IN THE PRACTICE OF COMMUNICATIVE AND SPEECH PORTRAITURE THE LINGUISTIC PERSONALITY OF A NATIVE OF THE NORTHERN VILLAGE

The article implements the problems of dialect linguistic personology, it solves the problem of communicative and speech portrayal of the linguistic personality of Vasily Ardalyonovich Morozov (1904-1980) on the basis of a linguistic analysis of his handwritten archive and memories of his children and grandchildren. Considerable attention is paid in this article to the handwritten list of Vologda ditties - one of the significant components of the studied manuscript archive, which is important both for studying the traditional spiritual culture of the Russian North and for describing the cultural life of the Morozov family in rural and urban everyday life. Based on the study of the handwritten list of ditties, the phonetic, lexical and grammatical features of dialect origin characteristic of the author of the manuscript, reflected in written speech, characterizing V.A. Morozov as a native speaker of the northeastern (Vologda) dialects of the northern dialect of the Russian language, are revealed. The list of folk songs represents the distinctive features of the author's graphics and spelling, on the one hand, showing the utmost accuracy in presenting the factual component of the manuscript, and on the other, allowing numerous spelling and punctuation errors, the presence of which reveals a clear lack of education of the informant. The article also comments on the motifs and images of folk ditties closest to V.A. Morozov. This is the motif of playing the accordion, mentioning the attributes of military service, as well as items of men's clothing fashionable in the first quarter of the twentieth century. The identification of motives and images important to the informant became possible by comparing the texts written by his hand with the recordings of texts of this folklore genre performed by his wife A.N. Morozova.

Традиції та трансформації народного одягу українців з с. Колодрібка Заліщицької міської громади Чортківського району Тернопільської області впродовж 60-х рр. 20 ст. – 20-х рр. 21 ст.

The purpose of the article is to research and analyze the traditions and transformations of the constituent elements of the folk formations of the western Podillia, using the example of Ukrainians from the village of Kolodribka, Zalishchytska urban community, Chortkiv district, Ternopil region, on the basis of studied historiography, museum sources of information, and expedition materials collected by the author in July 2022. The main trends in changes in the cut, materials and decoration of the components of the body, belt, shoulder and upper both women's and men's clothing, shoes, hats, jewelry, belts and accessories, embroidery techniques, predominant ornamental motifs and colors, primarily embroidered shirts in the 60s of the 20th century – 20s of the 21th century. The methodology of the study of narrow local features and the modern state of national dress in the structure of the material and spiritual culture of Ukrainians of Western Podillia covers a systematic approach, the principles of historicism and objectivity, as well as general scientific (historical, analysis and synthesis, comparative and terminological), historical (historiographical analysis, problematic - chronological, ethnospatial definition), ethnological (direct observation, photo and video recording of phenomena, typological analysis, individual survey and field research) and interdisciplinary (descriptive, methods of museum source studies and visual anthropology) methods. Scientific novelty. In the course of the historical and cultural development of the Podillia region, local features of all components of folk costumes have developed. In addition, each administrative district of one or another local area of Podillia, and often even a separate village, were distinguished by the originality of the methods of cutting, making and decorating clothes and forming an ensemble complex in general. Therefore, if the general regional features of the traditional clothing of the local population have been more or less studied by scientists, then the local and the local and zonal characteristics of the Podillia costume and their transformations remain insufficiently studied to this day. This fact emphasizes the relevance and necessity of implementing the defined problem of the article. Conclusions. An assessment of the value orientations of the local population in the preservation, modification and continuation of the traditions of wearing individual clothing components and the use of Ukrainian ornamentation in view of its symbolism in the decoration of clothing for the purpose of self-identification as a representative of the Ukrainian nation in general and a separate ethnic group in particular, specifically through clothing, is provided. The process of increasing the popularization of ethnic products in the wardrobe of Ukrainians is highlighted and the integration of folk ornamental motifs into modern style as a result of awareness of the depth of Ukrainian culture and getting rid of the label of inferiority.

DESIGN OF CORPORATE CLOTHING: AESTHETIC AND ERGONOMIC ASPECTS

The article is devoted to the process of designing corporate clothing for employees and students of higher education of the Khmelnytskyi National University, which is considered as a system of "corporate style → corporate image → corporate clothing and its identity", including logos, colors, graphic elements and graphic standards of visual identification of the KhNU and their structure. Scientific novelty. The most characteristic artistic and compositional solutions and the typology of graphic elements used in the corporate style of KhNU as a means of communication for the creation of the image and brand of the higher education institution were analyzed and highlighted. Practical meaning. The developed systematization of the graphic elements of the corporate style of KhNU made it possible to generalize their artistic and compositional features and use them in the design of men's and women's corporate clothing for employees and students of higher education of the Khmelnytskyi National University for visual representation and broadcasting of the values and main characteristics of the educational institution. The process of creating a sketch and harmonizing the project image of corporate clothing with the help of an information model, which allows to present it as a single symbolic system with the help of modern practices of visual presentation of fashion innovations, is demonstrated. The design stages of corporate clothing samples are presented with the help of computer technologies, which provide clothing designers with wide visual and artistic opportunities in the context of modern communication practices. Artistic and design, constructive and technological solutions for men's and women's corporate clothing models were developed, which were produced under the conditions of the Ukrainian fashion brand ARTY Sport using a calender thermopress for sublimation. Testing of experimental samples of products took place at the exhibition dedicated to the Day of Science (Khmelnytskyi, KhNU, 2022). Research materials can be used in the development of corporate style and design of modern corporate clothing. The results of the study can be used in further scientific research on the design of other types of corporate clothing for employees and students of higher education of the Khmelnytskyi National University.

Dan Kwian clay doll designing from Korat folksong identity for Adding value to the product of cultural tourism.

This research developed the design of Dan Kwian clay doll souvenir products from the identity of Korat Folksong, to add value to product which promote creative cultural tourism. The objectives of the research are 1) study the identity from Korat Folksong to create a small sculpture and creating prototypes from 3D Printing 2) Experimenting with Dan Kwian clay in order to create Dan Kwain clay doll and glazing to develop souvenir products. 3) To design packaging to convey contemporary Korat Folksong which promote cultural tourism. The research found that 1) The identity of Korat Folksong. Men's clothing is popular in wearing loincloths. Wear a round neck, short-sleeved shirt, no color limit, with a loincloth on the belly. Women wear loincloths and wear tight, collarless shirts with short sleeves. It is popular to wear brightly colored cloth. And the dance poses that express the identity of Korat Folksong are 1. Oh Ram Ro pose, 2. Chang Thiam Mae pose, and 3. Jok pose. By taking photo of the original Korat's Folksong performers. Then, draw it into a 3D image with computer program thereafter prototypes were printed with 3D printer reduced sizes to be used in the of making of plaster mold for casting the workpiece. 2) Experimenting with using triangular table to find ratios for all 36 slip formulas. It was found that clay formula 14 was suitable for casting the workpiece quickly and without cracking, with a ratio of 40% Dan Kwian clay, 40% Lampang kaolin clay, and 20% silica, chosen as the slip casting formula for creating the souvenir products and fined at 900 °C, then decorated with colored the glaze derived from the clothing of Korat Folksong performers. By applying glaze 1,100 °C, the workpiece shrinks by 12%. 3) The packaging is designed after the Korat music house, which is a pavilion raised under 4 pillars. When the pieces are packed in a box, it's like a musician singing and dancing in the music theater, and the Korat song is conveyed in the packaging design with fun rhythm content that attract tourists to Nakhon Ratchasima province. The song was composed by Mr. Kampan Nithiworapaiboon. The national artist. It is a souvenir product from Dan Kwian pottery to convey knowledge about the folk art of Korat songs to promote cultural tourism.

The Influence of Payment Gateways and Ease of Shopping on Customer Satisfaction at the UP2BEAT Marketplace

Up2beat is an online fashion center that provides high-quality clothing according to the latest trends, with a variety of styles for all walks of life and collections of men's, women's and children's clothing. In addition, they offer fashion accessories to complete the look, while prioritizing environmentally friendly practices and good work ethics standards. This study tests and proves whether payment gateways and ease of shopping influence customer satisfaction in the Up2beat marketplace. The method used in the research is quantitative with an explanatory research approach. The data collection techniques used are questionnaires and documentation. The data analysis technique uses multiple regression with the help of SPSS software. The results showed that the payment gateway factor and ease of shopping explained 94% of customer satisfaction. While the t test simultaneously shows partially and simultaneously that payment gateways and ease of shopping affect consumer satisfaction. Even though there is a significant influence between all these variables, of course, it is also necessary to look for other factors outside of payment gateways, ease of shopping and customer satisfaction

All we crave is pleasure! The motivation behind millennial men's clothing store choices when purchasing semi‐formal/smart workwear for themselves

AbstractMulti‐method research was conducted in South Africa to explore the personal values that shape millennial men's clothing retail store choices when purchasing semi‐formal/smart workwear for themselves. The qualitative phase comprised in‐depth, personal interviews with 25 participants, implementing soft laddering to elicit the preferred attributes and desired consequences that drive clothing retail store choices. These ‘easier to communicate’ properties formed the crux of the phase 2 measuring instrument. The online quantitative questionnaire, an interactive version of the established Association Pattern Technique (APT), was completed by 408 millennial men as part of the means‐end chain (MEC) procedure. The stepwise process produced a series of hierarchical value maps (HVMs), disclosing two prominent underlying personal values that drive millennial men's clothing store choices. ‘Pleasure’ emerged as the most prominent personal value, signalling millennials' high regard for enjoyable shopping experiences. The importance of a sense of ‘security’ should also be noted. Accordingly, the underlying forces that drive this financially lucrative cohort's clothing retail store choices extend beyond the marketing principles taught in business schools. Retailers will, therefore, have to delve deeper to understand their target markets' needs to prosper in a highly competitive marketplace.

Башкирские коллекции Дашковского этнографического музея: особенности комплектования, обзор предметов

This article examines the largest ethnographic collection on Bashkir culture, collected in the second half of the XIX – early XX century, stored in the collection of the Dashkovsky Ethnographic Museum (now the Russian Ethnographic Museum, St. Petersburg). The author's work with the funds and inventories of the museum showed that the formation of Bashkir collections began as a result of the transfer of exhibits from the First All-Russian Ethnographic Exhibition in Moscow in 1867. Replenishment of the funds was due to various donors, including scientists, local historians, teachers. In 1923, the museum received the items after the Bashkirs participated in the exhibition of the VDNH. In addition to the clothing material, ethnographic photographs were transferred to the museum. In general, a collection formed reflecting various aspects of the traditional culture of the Bashkir people. Unique, having no analogues in other museums, are elements of women's and men's clothing in a variety of options, hats, jewelry, shoes. Also in the museum's funds, there are valuable exhibits on economic activities, everyday life, musical instruments. The significance of the inventories of Bashkir collections is that they provide information not only about the names and places of purchase, but also the purpose of the items, manufacturing technology, methods of existence.

HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT OF THE UKRAINIAN COSTUME AND ITS REGIONAL FEATURES

The article investigates the history of Ukrainian costume development in accordance with different regions of Ukraine, namely: the Middle Dnieper, Podillya, Polissya and Volyn, Slobozhanshchyna and Poltava regions, Carpathians, South. Particular attention is paid to the artistic features of the Ukrainian costume. The aesthetic properties and features of clothing decoration are investigated. The regional complexes of the Ukrainian traditional dress are analyzed. Characterized features of cutting and sewing of men's and women's clothing.
 The author presented not only general information about the costumes of various historical epochs, its various components at each stage of its development, but also characterized the breastplate, satin, outerwear, hats, hairstyles, ornaments.

The Effectiveness of Video Tutorials on Improving Learning Outcomes in Online Learning for Men’s Clothing Courses

Video as a tutorial medium is an effective alternative to complement practical learning tools in online learning. This study aims to determine the effectiveness of video tutorials and increase student learning outcomes in online learning in men's clothing courses. This study used a pre-experimental and one-group pretest-posttest design. The research sample is 40 students who program men's clothing courses. Data collection was carried out using a learning achievement test. The result of the data analysis showed that the result of student achievement in learning men's clothing before using the video tutorial could have been more optimal. It shows that some students still need to be more optimal in achieving learning outcomes. Then, the result shows a significant improvement in learning outcomes after implementing video tutorials. The result of inferential analysis, namely the paired t-test, showed differences before and after the application of video tutorials to the reasoning process, especially in the men's clothing courses in fashion design, Home Economics Program, Universitas Negeri Makassar.

Designing Improvements To The Product Attributes Of Samase Koko Clothes Based On Consumer Preferences Using The Conjoint Analysis Method

Samase is one of the MSMEs from Bandung that was established in 2014. Samase is engaged in fashion, especially men's Muslim clothing. One of its superior products is koko clothes consisting of koko shirts and koko kurta, but the sales of koko clothes have not been able to meet the set target, this is due to product attributes that are not by consumer desires. This study aims to formulate a combination of attributes and the level of attributes on Samase koko shirt products that are considered important by consumers, by compiling recommendations for improving the right koko clothes attributes according to consumer desires and comparing them with existing attributes. The questionnaire in this study was distributed online to consumers who had bought and used koko clothes products from Samase, totaling 108 respondents. The results of the questionnaire were processed using conjoint analysis to determine consumer preferences. Based on calculations using conjoint analysis, it is known that consumer preferences with the highest utility value are, supernova material, long sleeve size, koko shirt model, deep color, basic collar, printing motifs, and price in the range of Rp. 200,000 - Rp. 300,000

Dayak Tribe Talawang Motif as a Variety of Bridal Fashion Decoration with Laser Cutting Technique

Talawang is a traditional shield belonging to the Dayak tribe. This research aimed to describe the results of the finished Talawang motif as a wedding dress decoration. The method used a double diamond consisting of 4 stages: discover, define, develop, and deliver. The results of applying the Talawang motif on bridal clothing were analyzed descriptively using the FEA (function, aesthetic, expressive) model. The laser cutting technology could detail the Talawang motif as a modern wedding dress decoration. Making the Talawang motif of the Dayak tribe uses a particular machine for laser cutting using synthetic leather. The bride's clothing follows the design concept using a mermaid silhouette, applying the Talawang motif on the dress and part of the sleeves. The finished men's clothing is under the design concept using a classic formal dress silhouette in a suit consisting of a shirt, vest, trousers, and coat, applying the Talawang motif on the right side of the suit's body. Based on the analysis of the function of the clothing created is a wedding dress, while in terms of aesthetics by applying decorations in the form of stylized Talawang motif with laser cutting techniques. This wedding dress expresses the uniqueness and beauty of the Talawang motif, expressing a modern wedding dress with a touch of local cultural values.

Integrated Performance Assessment Instrument of Tri Hita Karana's Priority Values in Vocational Learning

This study aims to analyze the success of developing an integrated performance assessment instrument for the priority values of Tri Hita Karana (THK) in vocational learning, in this case, in the practicum course for making men's clothing. This type of research is development research, which was developed using the ADDIE model. The subjects in this study were colleagues and learning and assessment experts. The focus of the research was the development of an integrated portfolio assessment instrument of the priority values of Tri Hita Karana in the practicum course in the manufacture of menswear. Data collection in this study was carried out using the method of questionnaires, with the research instrument being a validity sheet. The data obtained in the study were then analyzed using data analysis techniques using quantitative descriptive analysis. The feasibility of the resulting set of instruments is tested for validation using the Gregory formula using two experts and testing the reliability of the instrument using the inter-rater reliability technique. The results showed that the developed performance assessment instrument met the validity criteria with an average 4.0 (relevant) score and obtained very high validity through calculations using the Gregory formula (1.0). Calculation of reliability through an inter-rater agreement from two experts, which was very consistent with a score on the performance instrument of 0.96. Based on these results, it can be concluded that the design of the integrated performance assessment instrument set of priority values of Tri Hita Karana karana in the Men's Clothing Making Practical Course developed is in the valid and reliable category, so it is very feasible to use to measure students' abilities.

Letter from the Editors

It has only been in the last twenty years that men's fashion has gained attention as a discreet disciplinary area of study across the arts and humanities. Up until as late as 1994, when fashion studies entered the academy, information about men's fashion was not included in studies of masculinities; if anything, a cursory mention was made in an occasional book chapter or academic article. This was because fashion was considered frivolous and narcissistic, and not worthy of any serious scholarly attention, unless you were a woman or queer. Fashion was regulated to the domain of the feminine and the body, as opposed to art and architecture, which were deemed masculine and placed in the sphere of the mind and the psyche. Up until the mid-eighteenth century, men's clothing was made of plush fabrics, constructed silhouettes, and refined forms that signaled wealth and aristocratic status. Influenced by the Enlightenment ideas of reason and rationality, men's clothing became more utilitarian and functional, abandoning wigs, stockings, and high heels in favor of garments such as the suit. Exaggerated forms were left to women's fashion, as men relinquished their claim to adornment and beauty and fashion became associated with femininity and frivolity. It was, as John Flügel claimed, the Great Male Renunciation that was to burden masculinity for the next four hundred years.

Dressing Masculinity in the Nineteenth-Century, or Feeling Tight Around the Collar

Abstract By examining a cache of mid-nineteenth-century daguerreotypes, it becomes evident that, for the middle-class young men who sat for these portraits, masculine vestimentary self-representation was not a simple task. This article sheds light on the crisis in the regime of masculine domination and white supremacy, twin forces deployed in France with and for the development of the modern capitalist system. Stemming from a perceived physical degeneracy in men's bodies, this feeling of crisis was alleviated by scaffolding these bodies with normative and pseudo-scientific tailoring practices. In these daguerreotypes, the young men photographed used various accessories and embellishments to push against the dark uniformity of men's clothing and demonstrate their own idiosyncratic singularity. By reading this vestimentary play alongside Judith Butler's theory of gender performativity, the true decentering power of fashion accessories, particularly in men's fashion in the nineteenth century, is revealed.

Running from Bondage: Enslaved Women and Their Remarkable Fight for Freedom in Revolutionary America

Running from Bondage by Karen Cook Bell examines the understudied subject of runaway female slaves during America's revolutionary era. The author begins this very good book with a series of questions around which she builds her argument: “How did Black women advance their own liberation during the Revolutionary Era? What regional variations and similarities existed in the flight of enslaved women … How does Black women's flight fit into the larger narrative of slave resistance?” (p. 17). Building upon the research of such scholars as Sylvia Frey and Gary Nash, Bell argues that Black women actively resisted enslavement by fleeing from owners and seeking permanent freedom for themselves and their children. Furthermore, she asserts, “it is imperative to see Black women as visible participants and self-determined figures” in the first wave of abolitionism that began during the American Revolution (p. 160). Relying on runaway advertisements as her key source, Bell organizes her book thematically and chronologically, beginning each chapter with an advertisement focused on a particular enslaved woman. Chapter 2, on prerevolutionary fugitive women, for instance, opens with a 1770 advertisement concerning a literate mulatto woman named Margaret. After disguising herself in men's clothing, Margaret escaped from Baltimore. The publication further explains that she “has been in Barbados, Antigua, the Grenades, Philadelphia” (p. 44). Viewing Margaret's story as “a microcosm of the lives of other fugitive women,” Bell then discusses how, within a rapidly changing Atlantic world, ideas of freedom led other Black women to acts of self-emancipation (p. 45).

The Metrosexual's New Clothes

Abstract In analyzing the metrosexual and drawing on the work of Mark Simpson, this article argues that metrosexuality relates to the dressed, not naked, body. It also highlights the history and variations in form and expression of the metrosexual from the post-war period to the present day, illustrating how the metrosexual is a shifting kaleidoscope of relations between masculinity and sexuality, the body and clothing. Particular attention is given to the suit as the dominant form of modern, western men's dress and as a system of bodily adornment that has shifted over time. Underpinning this is a more unilinear development of the mediatization, commodification, feminization, and infantilization of fashionable masculinity. In sum, it is argued that furthering the understanding of the metrosexual and his relationship to masculinity and sexuality requires greater attention to men's clothes, which was otherwise rendered invisible in much of the preceding analysis.

Rendo Bangku Craft of Koto Gadang West Sumatra on Fashion Products

This article entitled “Rendo Bangku Craft of Koto Gadang West Sumatra on Fashion Products” aims to raise the potential of Koto Gadang’s rendo bangku patterns, as one of the excellent products of the Koto Gadang village community. Rendo bangku craft which was originally used to decorate the edges of women's shawls in Koto Gadang is now being innovated by placing Koto Gadang’s rendo (embroidery) on fashion products. The method used is experimental, by the means of exploration, design, manifestation, and evaluation. Exploration was carried out to find ideas or concepts related to the product of Koto Gadang local embroidery which was carried out using observation, literature study, and interviews. Designing is the step of an embodiment of ideas and concepts from exploration into the design of women’s wear, men’s wear, and accessories. Embodiment is the step to manifest the result of the pattern design of fashion products in a real form into working drawings, as well as into finished products including men's clothing.

Peran E-Commerce dalam Meningkatkan Kuota Penjualan


 This research is motivated by business competition in the era of information technology which is growing faster and easier. Business transactions can now be done digitally by having the term E-Commerce. The number of existing E-Commerce users shows that the use of E-Commerce has a very positive influence. For example, reducing capital costs, reducing costs, stores can be opened 24 hours, easiness in recapitulation, reducing product display costs. This shows that the use of the internet in business transactions can be said to be important by looking at the development of the increase in E-Commerce users every year.The purpose of this research is to find out the reasons for micro-scale entrepreneurs to use E- Commerce as one of their selling points. This study uses a qualitative descriptive method to make a systematic, actual and accurate description of the facts and characteristics of an object of research and uses a qualitative type with the aim of explaining in detail the phenomenon through in-depth data collection. As well as providing a comprehensive, accurate, and complete picture of the empirical reality behind the phenomenon. Respondents in this study were six respondents with different business fields. The business fields of the six micro-scale entrepreneurs include computer hardware and accessories, men's clothing, shoes, electric pulses, Gundam model kits, and souvenirs in the form of mugs, pins, and key chains. The results of this study are E-Commerce can reduce capital costs, facilitate marketing, can expand the market.
 Keywords: E-Commerce, Digital Business Transactions, Transaction Process.

The Development of Unisex Clothing

Unisex clothing has broken the boundary between males and females in a physical way. It developed in the 20th century and matured in the 21st century. People are trying to get more rights in an inclusive and open atmosphere. They choose clothes they like, getting rid of the traditional restrict. Women wearing men's clothing has been recognized by the overwhelming majority of people in today's society. But men wearing women's clothing isn't acknowledged widely. This phenomenon can be related to the concept of the dominant society. Some reasons are listed in this article. In foreign countries, the theory of unisex clothing has been relatively mature. China's cognition and development in this respect are relatively lacking. However, China has made some achievements in unisex clothing. Around the world, many brands and celebrities can be seen publicizing unisex clothing, promoting the circulation of this type of clothing. Unisex clothing is accepted widely in the world now. Although there are lots of limitations, some solutions are come up. Unisex clothing will develop in the diversification and equalization of clothing. Designers will emphasize more on the characteristics of the word "unisex".

Community Service for Cianjur Earthquake Victims Through Education and Empowerment

The research aims to discuss community service and concern for earthquake victims that occurred in Cianjur. Want to analyze the process of community service for victims of the Cianjur earthquake and want to know the level of concern from volunteers for the victims of the Cianjur earthquake. The research method uses a qualitative approach that describes the phenomena observed at the research location. The technique of collecting data is through direct field surveys for victims of the Cianjur disaster. Interviews by asking questions of volunteers and disaster victims, who were visited at the service location. Documentation studies of television media and internet media, information from volunteers, officials and other communities. Results and conclusions: (1). In the implementation of community service and concern from community volunteers from West Java, Banten and Jakarta to help and lighten their burden, from various institutions and communities. With various vehicles carrying aid in the form of food supplies, clothes, medicines and in the form of funds for the Cianjur earthquake victims. (2). Implementation of community service through education for school-age children in the form of education on traumatic healing, reading and writing the Koran, giving light questions about learning, singing, giving gifts of toys and food in the form of textbooks, dolls and other toys. Community service in the form of road repairs and lighting for power outages. Distribution of groceries, women's clothing, men's clothing and children's clothing, free medical and health care.