ABSTRACT The location of an astronomical observatory is a key factor that affects its scientific productivity. The best astronomical sites are generally those found at high altitudes. Several such sites in western China and the Tibetan plateau are presently under development for astronomy. One of these is Ali, which, at over 5000 m, is one of the highest astronomical sites in the world. In order to further investigate the astronomical potential of Ali, we have installed a lunar scintillometer, for the primary purpose of profiling atmospheric turbulence. This paper describes the instrument and technique, and reports results from the first year of observations. We find that ground layer (GL) turbulence at Ali is remarkably weak and relatively thin. The median seeing, from turbulence in the range 11–500 m above ground, is 0.34 arcsec, with seeing better than 0.26 arcsec occurring 25 per cent of the time. Under median conditions, half of the GL turbulence lies below a height of 62 m. These initial results, and the high altitude and relatively low temperatures, suggest that Ali could prove to be an outstanding site for ground-based astronomy.