Local Hydrodynamic Conditions Research Articles

Geotechnical Instabilities in Road Embankments: Analysis of a Landslide in Schistose Road Cut-and-Fill on the Taza-Al Hoceima Expressway, Northern Morocco

This article delves into the vital issue of geotechnical stability in road embankments, a crucial element for the integrity of road infrastructures and the safety of its users. It focuses on a specific case of landslide along the Taza-Al-Hoceima highway at kilometer point 67+800. This case is particularly significant due to the embankment's composition, which predominantly consists of schistose cut and fill, in addition to the topographic and hydrographic complexity of the area. The main ambition of this study is to delineate the various factors and underlying mechanisms that precipitate such geotechnical instabilities. To this end, the research integrates field investigations with laboratory analyses. A major aspect of this research involves examining the characteristics of the schists at the site. These schists are identified as fragmentable clayey rocks (R34), demonstrating a range of Micro-Deval (MDE) coefficients between 67 to 100 and Los Angeles (LA) coefficients from 33 to 57. Upon alteration, these schists are reclassified as fine soils (A2), consisting of 35-40% fine particulate matter, with plasticity indices ranging from 13 to 22 and a high permeability rate (Kp=10-3 m/s). The study underscores the schists' vulnerability, particularly their susceptibility to evolutionary changes and water sensitivity. It also reveals that local geomorphological and hydrodynamic conditions exacerbate water infiltration. Heavy rainfall is pinpointed as the trigger for the landslide incident. Although the current road drainage system effectively manages surface water, the findings of the analysis emphasize the critical need to enhance this system to address the significant water infiltration problem identified.

Vertical flow structures on a vegetated immobile bed under wave-current conditions: Laboratory experiments

Natural revegetation alters local hydrodynamic conditions in coastal lagoons. To investigate vertical flow structures in revegetated lagoons, a series of flume experiments are implemented on an immobile bed with Phragmites australis by a certain staggered configuration. Six incident wave heights and five inflow discharges are considered. The experimental results demonstrate that wave dominates turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) distributions under wave-current conditions. Vegetation morphology plays an important role in wave-current-vegetation interactions, which regulates TKE distributions by diminishing wave effects within 70% of water depth especially (0.3 < z/h < 1). The increasing inflow discharge has positive effects on diminishment of wave effects, while the reduction of mean streamwise flow velocity is stable under the present vegetation configuration. Moreover, the practical values of vertical mean flow velocity can be obtained from the empirical equation, which includes wave effects by a quadratic polynomial relationship between the ratio of experimental values to theorical values (U/Up) and the relative wave height H0/h. Furthermore, two relationships are established between the reduction of mean streamwise flow velocity r and z/h, involving a logarithmical relationship in the lower layer (0 < z/h < 0.3), and a cubic polynomial relationship in the upper layer (0.3 < z/h < 0.7).

Characteristics and migration of subaqueous sand dunes influenced by internal solitary waves in the Dongsha Region, Northern South China Sea

Seabed data acquired from the Dongsha Region in the northern South China Sea (SCS) revealed the detailed morphology of sand dune fields on the upper continental slope, at depths between 230 and 1240 m. High-resolution multibeam echosounder bathymetry and multichannel seismic reflection data were used to describe and interpret the distribution, characteristics, and migration of these sand dunes. The sand dunes were distributed as patches on a generally gentle continental slope (gradients≤0.58°), on a seafloor mainly covered by silty and coarse sand. The dunes exhibited distinctly different distribution patterns, geometries, and migration behavior. The trough-to-trough wavelength ranged from 47 to 555 m, the height was 0.1 to 19.8 m, the crest length was 100 m to 10s of km, and the dominant orientation was NE-SW. Based on their distribution and characteristics, the sand dunes were further categorized into (i) sinuous, (ii) barchan, (iii) reticular, (iv) restricted, and (v) superimposed types. Most sand dunes migrated to both NW and SE directions. We infer that, in the Dongsha Region, northern SCS, sand dunes formed and migrated due the world's largest observed internal solitary waves (ISWs). Wave-wave and wave-topography interactions occur as ISWs propagate and undergo polarity conversion during shoaling process, reflection, refraction, diffraction at the Dongsha Atoll. These processes bring about variable and complex local hydrodynamic conditions in the Dongsha Region, dissipate vast amounts of energy, erode the seafloor, and supply the sediment and energy required to sustain the formation and migration of very large sand dunes. Our findings not only enhance our understanding of the intricate relationships between topographic and geomorphologic evolution, sedimentary dynamics and mesoscale motions, but also hold significant importance for various hydrographic applications, such as navigation and submarine pipeline installation.

Spatiotemporal variations in marine macro-litter pollution along the shoreline of Koh Mun Nai, an uninhabited island in the Gulf of Thailand

Despite a recent ambitious plan to improve waste management in Thailand, few studies have monitored the impact of these policies on beached marine litter. Here, we assessed weekly the amounts and composition of stranded macro-litter (≥2.5 cm) on five beaches from an uninhabited island in Thailand during one year. A total of 24,407 items (391.86 kg) yielded a mean abundance of 3.18 ± 11.39 items m−2 (52.75 ± 204.68 g m−2), with plastic being the most abundant marine litter (48% of the total number). The overall Clean Coast Index (30.1) classified the beaches as ‘extremely dirty’, with a Plastic Abundance Index of 9.8 (‘very high abundance’ of plastics). When assessing the seasonal rates of accumulation, we found a higher flux pre-monsoon (0.05 items m−2 d−1; 0.66 g m−2 d−1) than post-monsoon (0.01 items m−2 d−1; 0.35 g m−2 d−1). Using modeling of the local hydrodynamic conditions, we explored the potential sources of the pollution, and surprisingly found that the closest river appeared not to be the source. Our results denote that the distribution and typology of marine litter were representatives of household and fishing activities, which in turn highlights the need for better regional litter management measures.

Spatial pattern of sea surface temperature and chlorophyll-a trends in relation to hydrodynamic processes in the Alborán Sea

Environmental conditions such as temperature, planktonic biomass, and ocean currents play an important role in the development and distribution of marine species. This work aims to estimate, in a high spatial resolution, the actual trends of sea surface temperature (SST) and chlorophyll-a concentration (Chl-a) and to assess the relationship with the local hydrodynamic conditions in the Alborán Sea. To investigate these objectives, time series of SST and Chl-a of satellite sensor data were analyzed during 20 years from January 2001 to December 2020, using the Seasonal-Trend-Loess (STL) decomposition method and the Mann-Kendall seasonality test. The results, obtained with a 95% of confidence, showed that the Alborán Sea basin is subject to sea surface warming evaluated at 0.027 ± 0.008 ° C per year, related to the warming of the Atlantic water mass, which contributes to a decrease of productivity evaluated at -0.0024 ± 0.0003 μg /l per year of Chl-a concentration. These trends are not homogeneous over the entire basin area but show a large regional variation between different parts of the Alborán Sea due to the hydrodynamic process of the Atlantic Jet - Western Alboran Gyre system (AJ-WAG), which is more active especially in summer/autumn seasons and contribute largely to these changes by mixing the waters of the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea.

Mitigation measures for the impact of hydrotechnical works in Răstoliţa River, Romania on Hucho hucho species

Hucho hucho habitats in the Răstoliţa River, Romania are under the pressure of anthropic activities, the most significant impact coming from hydrotechnical works implemented in the river started in the ‘80s. In the context of further development of the hydropower system, mitigation measures must be taken in order to ensure the conservation of ichthyofauna habitats, especially for Hucho hucho, a critically endangered species in Romania. Based on available data regarding the fish specimens’ presence and specific local hydromorphological and hydrodynamic conditions, a scientific-based tailored impact mitigation measures set for the conservation of Hucho hucho habitats is proposed for the Răstoliţa dam downstream area. By using hydraulic modelling and hydrological statistics, 12 monthly discharge values ranging from 1.00 to 1.80 m3/s have been determined as echohydrograph minimum values to be spilled by the Răstoliţa dam, with an additional 0.5 m3/s to be provided for April and May in order to ensure the conditions for the spring-cleaning phenomena. The proposed set of measures aims to mitigate the negative impact of the planned hydrotechnical works on the conservation of species of community interest, especially Hucho hucho.

High temperature and eutrophication alter biomass allocation of black mangrove (Avicennia germinans L.) seedlings

Mangrove restoration is underway along tropical coastlines to combat their rapid worldwide decline. However, restoration success is limited due to local drivers such as eutrophication, and global drivers such as climate change, yet their interactions remain unclear. We conducted a mesocosm experiment to assess the impact of increased nutrients and temperature on the photosynthetic efficiency and development of black mangrove seedlings. Seedlings exposed to high temperature and eutrophication showed reduced root growth and disproportionally long stems, with lower net assimilation rates. This architectonical imbalance between root and stem growth may increase susceptibility to physical disturbances and dislodgement. Notably, none of the experimental seedlings displayed signs of photophysiological stress, and those exposed to increased nutrients and temperature exhibited robust photosynthetic performance. The disbalance in biomass allocation highlights the importance of considering local nutrient status and hydrodynamic conditions in restoration projects, ensuring the effective anchorage of mangrove seedlings and restoration success under a warming climate.

Fertilisation kinetics among common Indo-Pacific broadcast spawning corals with distinct and shared functional traits

Indo-Pacific corals predominantly reproduce using synchronous mass spawning events to maximise fertilisation. However, as disturbances continue to thin population densities, the quantities of gametes released declines and colonies become more isolated, reducing the likelihood of cross-fertilisation. Local hydrodynamic conditions can promote or inhibit gamete contact; thus, the interaction between the abiotic environment and sperm density will determine the amount of time gametes interact. In this study, we investigated the sensitivity of reproduction to manipulations of two key limiting factors of fertilisation: sperm concentration and contact time between gametes. We explored fertilisation kinetics of phylogenetically and functionally similar and diverse coral taxa on the Great Barrier Reef and Western Australia (Acropora digitifera, A. tenuis; Coelastrea aspera, Platygyra daedalea). Results indicate that fertilisation is optimised at sperm concentrations > 103 sperm mL−1 and contact times > 30 s, but the extent of these relationships is species-specific. All species showed clear differences in fertilisation success across contact times, although these differences were less distinct for A. tenuis and P. daedalea at very high sperm concentrations. Acropora digitifera and P. daedalea exhibited nonlinear trends with steep slopes of increased fertilisation success once sperm concentration surpassed values of 104 sperm mL−1 and 102 sperm mL−1, respectively, followed by slight declines. Acropora tenuis and A. digitifera had the highest maximum fertilisation success, likely owing to beneficial evolved functional traits like large egg sizes. The present analysis underpins studies of fertilisation kinetics in natural reef populations to help inform management and restoration practices that assist population resilience and recovery.

Hydrodynamics of nearshore coastal waters: Implications for marine cage farming in Kenya

Hydrodynamic characteristics are important considerations in the design of cages used for fish farming in nearshore marine environments. The hydrodynamics of sites in mangrove creeks and comparatively open water channels in Kilifi and Kwale Counties in Kenya were sampled across tidal cycles and seasons using an Acoustic Wave and Current Profiler (AWAC). Water temperature ranged between 25.9 °C and 33.0 °C, and was lower in deeper areas with larger tidal heights than in shallower areas with smaller tidal heights. The water column height ranged between 9.68 - 14.69 m at Kijiweni, 1.16 - 6.7 m at Kibokoni and Tsunza, and 0.72 - 2.57 m at Dabaso. Maximum current speeds were 0.83 - 0.87 m/s at Kijiweni, 1.1 m/s at Kibokoni, 0.89m/s Tsunza, and 0.34 m/s at Dabaso. Wave height reached 0.35 and 0.36 m at Kijiweni, 2.7 m at Kibokoni, 1.3 m at Tsunza, and 1.6 m at Dabaso. The considerable difference in hydrodynamic characteristics between the sampling sites indicate that cages for marine fish farming should be designed specifically for local conditions in mangrove creeks and Cages for fish farming therefore require specific design and structural features depending on the local hydrodynamic conditions.

Holocene hydroclimate and dust activity, as reconstructed from the sediments of Lake Bayanchagan, on the northern margin of the East Asian summer monsoon

Abstract The sediments of closed-basin lakes on the margin of the East Asian summer monsoon (EASM) are valuable archives of past changes in hydroclimate and dust activity and thus potentially can help us to understand future climate changes. We present high-resolution, well-dated records of the grain size and carbonate mineralogy from Lake Bayanchagan, northern China, spanning the last 11.5 ka. Grain-size endmember (EM) analysis distinguished four EMs, each linked to different sediment transport processes. EM1 (0.4–0.6 μm) and EM3 (14–102 μm) reflect the strength of regional dust activity, whereas EM2 (1.3–31 μm) represents variations in local hydrodynamic conditions related to lake-level changes and EM4 (68–500 μm) is associated with local dust activity. Our results show that a high lake level and weakened dust activity occurred during 10–5.8 ka, as indicated by increased EM2 and decreased EM3, respectively. After 5.8 ka, EM2 decreased as the three other EMs increased, and dolomite appeared in the sediments while calcite decreased—indicating both a decline in lake level and strengthened dust activity. The fluctuations in lake level and dust activity are in good agreement with precipitation variations reconstructed from other records, which are in turn correlated to movement of the EASM rainfall belt, in response to temperature changes.

Dominant factors responsible for wave modulation in the macro-tidal Gyeonggi Bay of the Yellow Sea

Surface gravity waves, crucial for sediment transport in coastal regions, undergo wave modulation owing to local hydrodynamic conditions. However, the cause of the spatial and temporal distribution of the dominant factors in wave modulation remains vague. This study was aimed at identifying the causes of tidal modulation of waves in Gyeonggi Bay, which exhibits shallow water and macro-tidal environment, and estimating site-specific dominant factors using numerical modeling. The results indicated that tides significantly impact wave dynamics at semidiurnal tidal frequencies, with spatiotemporal variability. The most dominant factor in wave modulation in the nearshore region is the depth change caused by tides, and the most notable impact was found in tidal flats. Depth dependence is mainly evident in surf zones, with a clear distinction at locations where the wave height to water depth ratio reaches 0.2. While idealized studies highlight the significant role of wind in governing incoming waves, it is not the primary cause of modulation. Nevertheless, stronger tidal strength can lead to more pronounced modulation, which is further amplified when accompanied by strong wind conditions. This finding indicates that the spatiotemporal distribution of wave modulation in macro-tidal regions may have a significant impact on various estuarine dynamics including sediment transport.

Comparing Field, Probabilistic, and 2D Numerical Approaches to Assess Gravel Mobility in a Gravel‐Bed River

AbstractSediment transport is a key process that affects the morphology and ecological habitat diversity of rivers. As part of a gravel augmentation program to mitigate sediment deficit below a dam, gravel mobility in the Ain River in Eastern France was investigated by tracking of a large amount (n = 1,063) of PIT‐tagged gravels in the field, conducting a probabilistic approach based on published tracer studies, and performing two‐dimensional (2D) numerical modeling of flow and bedload transport. This comparative study highlights the strengths, weaknesses, and complementary aspects of the three approaches to the understanding of river gravel mobility. Thanks to recent technological improvements, PIT‐tagged gravels provide an increasingly reliable and accurate representation of bedload movement in the field, although it remains limited in spatio‐temporal resolution. Based on an exponential distribution, the probabilistic approach correctly reproduces the average trend in travel distances by the different classes of particles over hydrological periods, including one or several significant floods. Furthermore, the 2D numerical modeling accounts for the variability of local hydrodynamic conditions and can simulate realistic displacement distributions for the different classes of particles with high spatio‐temporal resolution. Numerical modeling is a very encouraging approach, which makes our study original because it is the first time that the estimation of mean travel distances, the application of an exponential distribution, and the comparison with a hydrodynamic model are combined. A more effective modeling strategy involves incorporating a probabilistic transport model in the 2D numerical model to reproduce the observed scatter of the individual particle trajectories.

Bio-physical determinants of sediment accumulation on an offshore coral reef: A snapshot study

Sediments are found on all coral reefs around the globe. However, the amount of sediment in different reservoirs, and the rates at which sediments move between reservoirs, can shape the biological functioning of coral reefs. Unfortunately, relatively few studies have examined reef sediment dynamics, and associated bio-physical drivers, simultaneously over matching spatial and temporal scales. This has led to a partial understanding of how sediments and living reef systems are connected, especially on clear-water offshore reefs. To address this problem, four sediment reservoirs/sedimentary processes and three bio-physical drivers were quantified across seven different reef habitats/depths at Lizard Island, an exposed mid-shelf reef on the Great Barrier Reef. Even in this clear-water reef location a substantial load of suspended sediment passed over the reef; a load theoretically capable of replacing the entire standing stock of on-reef turf sediments in just 8 h. However, quantification of actual sediment deposition suggested that just 2 % of this passing sediment settled on the reef. The data also revealed marked spatial incongruence in sediment deposition (sediment trap data) and accumulation (TurfPod data) across the reef profile, with the flat and back reef emerging as key areas of both deposition and accumulation. By contrast, the shallow windward reef crest was an area of deposition but had a limited capacity for sediment accumulation. These cross-reef patterns related to wave energy and reef geomorphology, with low sediment accumulation on the ecologically important reef crest aligning with substantial wave energy. These findings reveal a disconnect between patterns of sediment deposition and accumulation on the benthos, with the ‘post-settlement’ fate of sediments dependent on local hydrodynamic conditions. From an ecological perspective, the data suggests key contextual constraints (wave energy and reef geomorphology) may predispose some reefs or reef areas to high-load turf sediment regimes.

Tidal mitigation of offshore wind wake effects in coastal seas

With increasing offshore wind development, more and more marine environments are confronted with the effects of atmospheric wind farm wakes on hydrodynamic processes. Recent studies have highlighted the impact of the wind wakes on ocean circulation and stratification. In this context, however, previous studies indicated that wake effects appear to be attenuated in areas strongly determined by tidal energy. In this study, we therefore determine the role of tides in wake-induced hydrodynamic perturbations and assess the importance of the local hydrodynamic conditions on the magnitude of the emerging wake effects on hydrodynamics. By using an existing high-resolution model setup for the southern North Sea, we performed different scenario simulations to identify the tidal impact. The results show the impact of the alignment between wind and ocean currents in relation to the hydrodynamic changes that occur. In this regard, tidal currents can deflect emerging changes in horizontal surface currents and even mitigate the mean changes in horizontal flow due to periodic perturbations of wake signals. We identified that, particularly in shallower waters, tidal stirring influences how wind wake effects translate to changes in vertical transport and density stratification. In this context, tidal mixing fronts can serve as a natural indicator of the expected magnitude of stratification changes due to atmospheric wakes. Ultimately, tide-related hydrodynamic features, like periodic currents and mixing fronts, influence the development of wake effects in the coastal ocean. Our results provide important insights into the role of hydrodynamic conditions in the impact of atmospheric wake effects, which are essential for assessing the consequences of offshore wind farms in different marine environments.

Impact of anthropogenic activity on antibiotic behaviors in coastal waters

The overuse of antibiotics and the pollution of the ecological environment caused by their emissions had attracted widespread attention. There was little information on the detection and distribution characteristics of antibiotics in coastal environments with complex water-suspended particles interactions and significant salinity changes. In this study, the occurrence, source, and ecological risk of 26 antibiotics, as well as their response mechanisms to anthropogenic activities were studied. Water samples along a typical silty mud coastal area were collected. The total concentration of antibiotics in the coastal water ranged from 8.5 to 132 ng/L. Spatially, the total concentration showed a downward trend along the canal. The results of offshore samples showed that the highest concentrations occurred near the small estuaries and the northwestern sampling sites. This indicated that the small canals provided a large source of pollutants and the antibiotic distribution were also dominated by local hydrodynamic conditions. Based on the results of principal component analysis-multiple linear regression, the domestic sewage and livestock and poultry farming were identified as the predominant sources of antibiotics. The results of the ecological risk assessment showed that 56.8 % sampling sites were in low-risk. The effect of intensity of anthropogenic disturbance on the distribution of antibiotics was represented by the distance between the sampling site and the city center, and the distance value showed a significant negative correlation with the total concentration of antibiotics. However, different kinds of antibiotics showed different patterns: concentrations of tetracyclines and fluoroquinolones had no significant relationship with distance values; sulfonamides, lincosamides, and macrolides decreased with the intensity of anthropogenic disturbance. This study presented a method to quantify the effect of anthropogenic activities, thus provided a new insight of adjust measures to local conditions for the pollution prevention and ecological risk assessment of antibiotics in coastal areas.

The relative influence of environmental cues on reproductive allocation of a highly iteroparous coral reef fish

Pelagic eggs and larvae of many coral reef fishes will encounter a dynamic and risky environment as they disperse between the reef and offshore habitats. Life-history theory predicts that spawning adults should synchronize their reproductive effort with specific environmental conditions that facilitate offspring survival. Favourable conditions for reproduction may be determined by local environmental conditions at the spawning site, or signalled by larger-scale environmental cues, such as the lunar cycle. Multiple cues may interact in complex ways to cause additional variation in spawning intensity. We evaluated a set of environmental variables that potentially determine temporal and spatial variation in spawning patterns of a highly iteroparous fish, the sixbar wrasse (Thalassoma hardwicke). Specifically, we monitored focal territories of terminal-phase males over a 5-month period, quantified spawning activities, and evaluated a hierarchical set of predictive models using a model selection approach (AICc). Temporal variation in spawning (and population densities at the spawning site) was most strongly associated with the lunar cycle and maximal around the new moon. Local hydrodynamic conditions and other environmental variables observable at the spawning site were less strongly correlated with temporal variation in spawning. Territory proximity to the reef edge was a strong predictor of spatial variation in spawning intensity; territories closest to the reef edge experienced more spawning. These observations suggest that females make predictable decisions about where and when they spawn. Females appear to recognize strong, persistent spatial gradients in spawning habitat quality, and primarily vary their spawning effort in accordance with a large-scale environmental cue (the lunar cycle).

A preliminary assessment of coastal vulnerability for Ngazidja Island, Comoros Archipelago, Western Indian Ocean

In previous studies, an emphasis on the particular vulnerability of small island states to future sea-level rise and the intensity of increasing storm surges have been discussed. This preliminary assessment develops a Coastal Vulnerability Index (CVI) along the 202 km-long coastline of Ngazidja Island (formerly Grande Comore, Comoros Archipelago), using fieldwork, remote sensing, and geographic information system tools (GIS). The CVI considers nine variables: geology (a), geomorphology (b), topography (c), shoreline change (d), shoreline exposure (e), relative sea-level rise (f), significant wave height (g), mean tide range (h), and land-use (i). The land-use variable was added in this analysis to highlight the human asset exposure in the surrounding areas. Each variable was ranked based on local physical and hydrodynamic conditions and their vulnerability contribution to sea-level rise. The CVI was computed in 270 sections. According to the vulnerability index, approximately 57.5% of the coastline is under low and moderate vulnerability. High and very high vulnerabilities refer specifically to beaches and shores with old volcanic lava flows located mainly in the northern, northeastern, and southeastern parts of the island, approximately 42.5% of the coastline. The lowest value of CVI is 9.2 on high, rocky cliffs and the highest value is 160 on beaches. This vulnerability partition along the coastline is consistent with in situ indicators of coastal erosion and flooding. In a sea-level rise context, it is of prime importance to integrate coastal vulnerability maps with planning and sustainable management of the coastal zone.

Unravelling the effects of treated wastewater discharges on the water quality in a coastal lagoon system (Ria Formosa, South Portugal): Relevance of hydrodynamic conditions

This study aimed to assess the influence of treated wastewater disposal on Ria Formosa coastal lagoon (South Portugal), the largest national producer of bivalve mollusks. Water quality was evaluated at two areas under different wastewater loads and hydrodynamic conditions, using physico-chemical variables, bacterial indicators of contamination, chlorophyll-a concentration, phytoplankton abundance and composition. Samples were collected monthly, between October 2018 and September 2019. Minor influence of effluent discharge was detected at the eastern Olhão area, exposed to stronger hydrodynamics and higher wastewater load than the northwestern Faro area (ca. 2–4-fold total nitrogen and phosphorus). The lower load weakly flushed area showed a poorer water quality, up to 500 m from the discharge point, more marked during the spring-summer period. The intensity, persistence, and spatial extent of the wastewater footprint, lower for the highest-loading area, reflected the role of local hydrodynamic conditions, modulating the influence of wastewater discharge on lagoonal water quality.

Seasonal morphodynamics of multiple intertidal bars (MITBs) on a meso‐ to macrotidal beach

AbstractMultiple intertidal bar (MITB) beach systems comprise a succession of subdued, shore‐parallel sandbars, developed under low‐energy conditions in meso‐ to macrotidal settings. Their relatively stable morphologies over long timescales are commonly attributed to a dynamic equilibrium, driven primarily by seasonal morphodynamics. The seasonal behaviour is, however, poorly understood. The relationship between temporal and spatial hydrodynamic forcing and morphological changes was investigated through monthly differential GPS surveys in Dundrum Bay (Northern Ireland) from April 2019 to March 2020, associated with variations in nearshore wave conditions, simulated using the SWAN wave model. During low‐energy summer conditions, southeast waves helped promote MITB stability and a slight increase in bar crest elevation, with the seaward‐most bar buffering and preserving the inner bar system through wave dissipation. In the winter, a progressive increase in wave energy, and a switch in wave direction (southwest to south), initiated the highest rates of cross‐shore bar migration and a lowering of bar crests. While the seaward‐most bar remained largely submerged, the shoreward‐most bar played a key role in protecting the upper‐beach and/or foredune. Winter conditions also forced a newly observed mesoscale longshore drift involving offshore sediment transport in the southwest and onshore transport in the northeast. Cross‐shore variability in MITB behaviour at seasonal timescales was, however, primarily driven by local hydrodynamic conditions, including variations in wave energy and direction. Conversely, alongshore variability was largely influenced by the complex nearshore bathymetry, headlands and an active ebb delta, all interacting with changing hydrodynamic forcing. These results challenge the seasonal equilibrium model for MITB systems and highlight longer‐term patterns of sediment movement.

Deciphering the composite morphological diversity ofLophelia pertusa, a cosmopolitan deep‐water ecosystem engineer

AbstractCold‐water coral reefs constitute important biodiversity hotspots in aphotic waters around the world. The complex, highly variable morphology of the reef habitat‐forming species has important implications for the communities they harbor and for the physical processes occurring therein.Lophelia pertusa(Desmophyllum pertusum) is one of the most common reef‐building cold‐water corals, but its morphological diversity has never been characterized on a broad scale. We qualitatively and quantitatively explored the patterns of morphological variation of this species over a wide geographic and ecological range, addressing corallite and colony traits and their interrelation. Geographic variation is evident at both corallite and colony level, although with distinct trends. By linking branching patterns to colony morphology, we identified three main morphotypes (asymmetrical, bushy, and columnar) with substantial geometric and architectural differences, which suggest high functional diversity of cold‐water coral reefs across regions. Colony morphology appears strongly governed by asexual budding of individual polyps, but largely decoupled from corallite morphology. We hypothesize that colony morphology is primarily driven by local hydrodynamic conditions and associated food supply.