Stratum Corneum Lipid Organization Research Articles

Evaluation of molecular interaction between intercellular lipid organization in human stratum corneum and terpenes using time-resolved synchrotron X-ray diffraction

The stratum corneum (SC) presents certain limitations for topical administration of medication, which can be overcome using penetration enhancers (PEs) such as terpene (TP). The SC is also crucial for maintaining the skin barrier and consists of two lamellar structures: the short periodicity phase (SPP) and long periodicity phase (LPP). In this study, we monitored changes in the X-ray diffraction peaks of the human SC, 30 min after TP application (neroridol, 1,8-cineol, and d-limonene). With the application of nerolidol, no significant changes were observed in the small-angle diffraction peak positions for the lamellar structure of SPP, but the integrated intensity decreased. On the contrary, when applying 1,8-cineole and d-limonene, a lower angle peak shift with broadening of the peak width of SPP diffraction peaks was observed for d-limonene than for 1,8-cineole, and the degree of peak shift and width broadening was greater for d-limonene than for 1,8-cineole. The diffraction peaks of LPP disappeared when 1,8-cineole and d-limonene were applied. These results indicate that the degree of interaction between the SC and TP differs depending on the molecular species, and d-limonene and 1,8-cineole exhibit penetration-enhancing via lamellar structure disruption of both SPP and LPP, immediately after application.

Phytosphingosine ceramide mainly localizes in the central layer of the unique lamellar phase of skin lipid model systems

Understanding the lipid arrangement within the skin’s outermost layer, the stratum corneum (SC), is important for advancing knowledge on the skin barrier function. The SC lipid matrix consists of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol, and free fatty acids, which form unique crystalline lamellar phases, referred to as the long periodicity phase (LPP) and short periodicity phases. As the SC lipid composition is complex, lipid model systems that mimic the properties of native SC are used to study the SC lipid organization and molecular arrangement. In previous studies, such lipid models were used to determine the molecular organization in the trilayer structure of the LPP unit cell. The aim of this study was to examine the location of CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER NP) in the unit cell of this lamellar phase and compare its position with CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER NS). We selected CER NP as it is the most prevalent CER subclass in the human SC, and its location in the LPP is not known. Our neutron diffraction results demonstrate that the acyl chain of CER NP was positioned in the central part of the trilayer structure, with a fraction also present in the outer layers, the same location as determined for the acyl chain of CER NS. In addition, our Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy results are in agreement with this molecular arrangement, suggesting a linear arrangement for the CER NS and CER NP. These findings provide more detailed insight into the lipid organization in the SC lipid matrix.

Exploratory in vivo biophysical studies of stratum corneum lipid organization in human face and arm skin

The purpose of this in vivo exploratory study was to investigate human stratum corneum (SC) lipid conformational order and chain packing in healthy face (cheek) skin as a function of stratum corneum depth using a combination of tape-stripping and horizontal attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared (HATR-FTIR) spectroscopy. Equivalent data were also collected from volar forearm skin as we, and others, have previously characterized forearm SC lipid order as a function of depth, therefore these data served as a comparison site and an experimental internal standard for the previously unmeasured in vivo face skin data. An SC depth profile was achieved by using tape strips to sequentially remove “layers” of SC. Trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements were recorded following each sequential tape strip. In vivo HATR-FTIR spectra were collected after each tape strip, providing a depth profile of spectral data through the SC of both faces and arms. Spectral data were analyzed at five discrete SC depths corresponding to baseline and SC depths at which the increase in TEWL was 25, 50, 75, and 100 percent (%) from the baseline measurement. Analysis of the SC in vivo HATR-FTIR spectroscopic data utilized mean spectra generated by averaging the spectra from all panelists (n = 10) at the five specific SC depths corresponding to when TEWL had increased by 25, 50, 75 and 100 % from baseline for each subject, respectively. While this is an exploratory study, and the data could be collated and processed in many ways, the average spectral data reveal clear trends in the face and arm SC. Increasing SC lipid order with depth is observed for face skin, as with arm skin, albeit with significant differences at all relative depths in the absolute lipid order between faces and arms. In vivo SC lipids are significantly more ordered at all depths in arms versus cheeks. The less ordered SC lipids of face skin can be in part attributed to the presence of a high amount of fluid sebaceous lipid species observed deep into the face SC. Interestingly, no evidence of orthorhombic packing is observed at any depth in face SC. This is consistent with the high degree of disorder indicated from the chain fluidity measurements. These in vivo HATR-FTIR depth studies of face skin highlight how different SC barrier organization is in the face compared to the more widely studied body sites such as arms and legs. Further studies of the SC lipid barrier in faces are needed to understand the significant differences in lipid organization and its implication for the penetration of drug and cosmetic actives through face skin.

Increased Levels of Short-Chain Ceramides Modify the Lipid Organization and Reduce the Lipid Barrier of Skin Model Membranes

The skin barrier function is attributed to the stratum corneum (SC) intercellular lipid matrix, which is composed primarily of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids, and cholesterol. These lipids are organized in two lamellar phases: the short and long periodicity phases (SPP and LPP), respectively. The LPP is considered important for the skin barrier function. High levels of short-chain CERs are observed in various inflammatory skin diseases and have been correlated with barrier dysfunction. In this research, we investigated how the increase in the fraction of the short-chain CER with a nonhydroxy C16 acyl chain linked to a C18 sphingosine base CER NS(C16) at the expense of the physiological chain length CER NS with a C24 acyl chain (CER NS(C24)) impacts the microstructure and barrier function of a lipid model that mimicked certain characteristics of the SC lipid organization. The permeability and lipid organization of the model membranes were compared with that of a control model without CER NS(C16). The permeability increased significantly when ≥50% of CER NS(C24) was substituted with CER NS(C16). Employing biophysical techniques, we showed that the lipid packing density reduced with an increasing proportion of CER NS(C16). Substitution of 75% of CER NS(C24) by CER NS(C16) resulted in the formation of phase-separated lipid domains and alteration of the LPP structure. Using deuterium-labeled lipids enabled simultaneous characterization of the C24 and C16 acyl chains in the lipid models, providing insight into the mechanisms underlying the reduced skin barrier function in diseased skin.

Cleansers' mildness: Stratum corneum lipid organization and water uptake after a single wash

AbstractThe modern marketplace for personal cleansing demands effective but also gentle products. The acute effects of skin exposure to personal cleansers are a key driver in product mildness. Yet many current clinical methods of assessing this mildness rely upon exaggerated test conditions that do not match the brief contact time with the skin in typical use. Here, we present an approach to quantitatively measure changes in composition, water uptake, and spacing of lipid lamellar structures in human stratum corneum after a single ~2‐minute wash protocol. The approach is based upon in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy and small‐angle X‐ray scattering (SAXS) of ex vivo stratum corneum. Raman data, collected using cleansers with varying degrees of harshness, reveal changes in water uptake as a function of skin depth and detect depth of damage upon cleansing, a conduit to barrier integrity. By treating isolated human stratum corneum with cleansers for similarly short exposures, SAXS reveals structural perturbations associated with interactions of surfactants and skin lipid lamellar structure, also a measure of barrier strength. Disruption of the characteristic periodicity phases of the lipid lamellae or formation of new phases with intermediate periodicity due to surfactant intercalation are observed for different formulations. This approach provides molecular scale characterization of skin–product interactions and resulting skin barrier effects in more realistic consumer treatment conditions. It also provides feedback about cleansers' mildness in a rapid fashion and at lower cost, widening a bottleneck of identification and assessment of new ingredients in the early stages of formula design.

Selective modification of skin barrier lipids

The molecular organization of stratum corneum (SC) lipids is important for maintaining the barrier properties of the skin. The majority of intercellular lipids are in a solid state at normal humidity (RH) and ambient temperature; however, several studies indicate that a small fraction exist in a fluid state. In a previous work, a preferential solubilization of fluid skin lipids by acetone (Ac) was envisaged. A different change in the skin permeability related to the different lipid structures of the extracted lipids was suggested. To increase the knowledge of the specific role of different lipids on skin structure, a selective lipid modification is proposed. This study assess the effect of Ac on skin barrier lipids in-depth. Synchrotron based Fourier-transform infrared microspectroscopy (FTIR), which is used to study SC lipid organization, revealed a more ordered lipid organization after Ac treatment. In vitro experiments using Franz cells, which were selected to follow the SC barrier function capability, demonstrated that Ac-treated skin retained caffeine and ibuprofen on the SC with very low permeation of both compounds into the deeper skin layers. In vitro transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements revealed the ability of Ac to induce a less water permeated skin. Although an important lipid fraction has been removed, Ac skin treatment brings to a skin where the remaining lipids promote an improved barrier function. These results could lead to a better understanding of the role of different lipid components in skin structure.

Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin

PurposeTo determine whether formulations containing ceramides (including a ceramide with a long hydroxyl acyl chain linked to a linoleate, CER EOS) and fatty acids are able to repair the skin barrier by normalizing the lipid organization in stratum corneum (SC).MethodsThe formulations were applied on a skin barrier repair model consisting of ex vivo human skin from which SC was removed by stripping. The effect of formulations on the lipid organization and conformational ordering in the regenerated SC were analyzed using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and small angle X-ray diffraction.ResultsApplication of the formulation containing only one ceramide on regenerating SC resulted in a higher fraction of lipids adopting an orthorhombic organization. A similar fraction of lipids forming an orthorhombic organization was observed after application of a formulation containing two ceramides and a fatty acid on regenerating SC. No effects on the lamellar lipid organization were observed.ConclusionsApplication of a formulation containing either a single ceramide or two ceramides and a fatty acid on regenerating SC, resulted in a denser lateral lipid packing of the SC lipids in compromised skin. The strongest effect was observed after application of a formulation containing a single ceramide.

Applying a vernix caseosa based formulation accelerates skin barrier repair by modulating lipid biosynthesis

Restoring the lipid homeostasis of the stratum corneum (SC) is a common strategy to enhance skin barrier function. Here, we used a ceramide containing vernix caseosa (VC)-based formulation and were able to accelerate barrier recovery in healthy volunteers. The recovery was examined over 16 days by monitoring trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) after barrier disruption by tape-stripping. Four skin sites were used to examine the effects of both treatment and barrier recovery. After 16 days, samples were harvested at these sites to examine the SC ceramide composition and lipid organization. Changes in ceramide profiles were identified using principal component analysis. After barrier recovery, the untreated sites showed increased levels of ceramide subclass AS and ceramides with a 34 total carbon-atom chain length, while the mean ceramide chain length was reduced. These changes were diminished by treatment with the studied formulation, which concurrently increased the formulated ceramides. Correlations were observed between SC lipid composition, lipid organization, and TEWL, and changes in the ceramide subclass composition suggest changes in the ceramide biosynthesis. These results suggest that VC-based formulations enhance skin barrier recovery and are attractive candidates to treat skin disorders with impaired barrier properties.

Evidence of hydrocarbon nanodrops in highly ordered stratum corneum model membranes

The stratum corneum (SC), the top layer of skin, dictates the rate of both water loss through the skin and absorption of exogenous molecules into the body. The crystalline organization of the lipids in the SC is believed to be a key feature associated with the very limited permeability of the skin. In this work, we characterized the organization of SC lipid models that include, as in native SC, cholesterol, a series of FFAs (saturated with C16-C24 chains), as well as a ceramide bearing an oleate chain-linked to a very long saturated acyl chain [N-melissoyl-oleoyloxy hexacosanoyl-D-erythro-sphingosine (Cer EOS)]. The latter is reported to be essential for the native SC lipid organization. Our 2H-NMR, infrared, and Raman spectroscopy data reveal that Cer EOS leads to the formation of highly disordered liquid domains in a solid/crystalline matrix. The lipid organization imposes steric constraint on Cer EOS oleate chains in such a way that these hydrocarbon nanodroplets remain in the liquid state down to −30°C. These findings modify the structural description of the SC substantially and propose a novel role of Cer EOS, as this lipid is a strong modulator of SC solid/liquid balance.

Interfacial properties of avian stratum corneum monolayers investigated by Brewster angle microscopy and vibrational sum frequency generation

The outermost layer of skin, the stratum corneum (SC), contains a complex mixture of lipids, which controls the rate of cutaneous water loss (CWL) in reptiles, mammals, and birds. However, the molecular structure of SC lipids and how molecular configurations influence CWL is poorly understood. Here, the organization and structure of SC lipids extracted from birds were investigated by means of Langmuir films. Properties of lipids from the SC of arid and semi-arid adapted larks, known to have a low CWL, were compared with lipids extracted from the SC of mesic lark species with higher CWL to gain insight into how structure impacts CWL. Film properties were probed with surface pressure-area isotherms, Brewster angle microscopy (BAM), and vibrational sum frequency generation (VSFG). Results indicate organization and ordering of SC lipids in the arid-adapted hoopoe lark was vastly different from all other species, forming a miscible, rigid monolayer, whereas monolayers from semi-arid and mesic species were immiscible and disordered. Probing of interfacial water structure reveals that film morphology determines organization of water molecules near the monolayer; monolayers with a porous morphology had an increased population of water molecules that are weakly hydrogen-bonded. In general, CWL appears related to the miscibility and ordering of lipid components within the SC, as well as the ability of these lipids to interact with water molecules. From a broader perspective, CWL in larks appears linked to both the SC lipid composition and the aridity of the species’ environment.

In vivo confocal Raman microscopic determination of depth profiles of the stratum corneum lipid organization influenced by application of various oils

BackgroundThe intercellular lipids (ICL) of stratum corneum (SC) play an important role in maintaining the skin barrier function. The lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL in SC is not homogenous, but rather depth-dependent. ObjectiveThis study aimed to analyze the influence of the topically applied mineral-derived (paraffin and petrolatum) and plant-derived (almond oil and jojoba oil) oils on the depth-dependent ICL profile ordering of the SC in vivo. MethodConfocal Raman microscopy (CRM), a unique tool to analyze the depth profile of the ICL structure non-invasively, is employed to investigate the interaction between oils and human SC in vivo. ResultsThe results show that the response of SC to oils’ permeation varies in the depths. All oils remain in the upper layers of the SC (0–20% of SC thickness) and show predominated differences of ICL ordering from intact skin. In these depths, skin treated with plant-derived oils shows more disordered lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL than intact skin (p<0.05). In the intermediate layers of SC (30–50% of SC thickness), the oils do not influence the lateral packing order of SC ICL (p>0.1), except plant-derived oils at the depth 30% of SC thickness. In the deeper layers of the SC (60–100% of SC thickness), no difference between ICL lateral packing order of the oil-treated and intact skin can be observed, except that at the depths of 70–90% of the SC thickness, where slight changes with more disorder states are measured for plant-derived oil treated skin (p<0.1), which could be explained by the penetration of free fatty acid fractions in the deep-located SC areas. ConclusionBoth oil types remain in the superficial layers of the SC (0–20% of the SC thickness). Skin treated with mineral- and plant-derived oils shows significantly higher disordered lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL in these layers of the SC compared to intact skin. Plant-derived oils significantly changed the ICL ordering in the depths of 30% and 70–90% of the SC thickness, which is likely due to the penetration of free fatty acids in the deeper layers of the SC.

Inhibitors of thermally induced burn incidents – the examinations of the flammability, TGA, SAXS and SEM methods

The examinations of the skin flammability, small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) and thermogravimetric (TGA) investigations were all carried out in temperature sufficient for simulating a burn incident. Above methods were used to perform assessment of collagen molecular structure changes in conditions of thermal oxidative stress, whereas the scanning electron microscopy analysis (SEM) was used to illustrate skin surface changes. The changes were observed in the presence of active antioxidants such as L-ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate and hydrogel of orthosilicic acid H4SiO4 • n H2O. Presence of these modifiers of the burn process minimizes external effects of simulated burn incidents for model samples of animal skin and burn wound epidermis extracted from the patients. The examinations of the skin flammability were carried out with the limited oxygen index (LOI) method. In this study, synergy between orthosilicic acid and L-ascorbic acid and sodium ascorbate into animal and human skin has been shown through an increase in LOI values. The treatment by means of L-ascorbic acid affects particular morphological changes in the skin which is visible in SEM method. Skin samples incubated in the solution of the 3.5 %, 5 % L-ascorbic acid, 7 % sodium ascorbate solutions and 7 % orthosilicic acid demonstrate the development of a structure resembling a coherent solid composite. SAXS gives structural information on the assembly of dermal collagen as well as the lamellar organization of stratum corneum (SC) lipids located in the outermost part of the epidermis. Using this technique, two lamellar phases with repeat distance of approximately 4.3 and 6 nm in the SC lipids domains were observed. Moreover, the diameter of the collagen fibrils were extracted. The observed differences in the values of these parameters allowed us to better understand the mechanism of modification of the surface of the burn affected skin and the influence of the modification on the process of skin regeneration.

Topically applied fatty acids are elongated before incorporation in the stratum corneum lipid matrix in compromised skin.

In several skin diseases, both the lipid composition and organization in the stratum corneum (SC) are altered which contributes to the impaired skin barrier function in patients. One of the approaches for skin barrier repair is treatment with topical formulations to normalize SC lipid composition and organization. Vernix caseosa (VC), a white cheesy cream on the skin during gestational delivery, has shown to enhance skin barrier repair. In this study, we examined how a fatty acid (FA) containing formulation mimicking the lipid composition of VC interacts with the lipid matrix in the SC. The formulation was applied on ex vivo human skin after SC removal. Subsequently, the ex vivo human skin generated SC during culture. The effect of FA containing formulations on the lipid organization and composition in the regenerated SC was analysed by Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy and liquid chromatography mass spectroscopy (LC/MS), respectively. FTIR results demonstrate that the FAs are intercalated in the lipid matrix of the regenerated SC and partition in the same lattice with the endogenous SC lipids, thereby enhancing the fraction of lipids forming an orthorhombic (very dense) packing in the SC. LC/MS data show that the topically applied FAs are elongated before intercalation in the lipid matrix and are thus involved in the lipid biosynthesis in the skin.

Thermal behavior and functional group interaction of lipids extracted from the stratum corneum

Attenuated total reflection Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) is a powerful tool for evaluating the functional group interaction of intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum. However, as the large amide I and amide II absorption bands are mainly derived from keratin, which constitutes about 90% of the stratum corneum, it is difficult to investigate the amide bonding interactions of intercellular lipids. In this study, we used extracted lipids from the stratum corneum to investigate the amide bonding derived from lipid interaction. Synchrotron X-ray diffraction studies showed that the extracted lipids formed hexagonal and orthorhombic structures, which play a key role in skin barrier function, as well as high-temperature hexagonal structures. Moreover, in ATR-FTIR measurements, the thermal profiles of stratum corneum lipids and extracted lipids showed similar behavior. The amide absorptions increased with increasing temperature, similar to the observations for the formation of high-temperature hexagonal structures by synchrotron X-ray diffraction. Furthermore, these characteristic changes were disturbed by l-menthol, which fluidizes the polar and hydrophobic regions of intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum. The extracted lipids were useful as an appropriate model of stratum corneum lipid organization for investigation of amide bonding interactions in stratum corneum lipids without interference from keratin.

Stratum Corneum Lipids: Their Role for the Skin Barrier Function in Healthy Subjects and Atopic Dermatitis Patients.

Human skin acts as a primary barrier between the body and its environment. Crucial for this skin barrier function is the lipid matrix in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC). Two of its functions are (1) to prevent excessive water loss through the epidermis and (2) to avoid that compounds from the environment permeate into the viable epidermal and dermal layers and thereby provoke an immune response. The composition of the SC lipid matrix is dominated by three lipid classes: cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides. These lipids adopt a highly ordered, 3-dimensional structure of stacked densely packed lipid layers (lipid lamellae): the lateral and lamellar lipid organization. The way in which these lipids are ordered depends on the composition of the lipids. One very common skin disease in which the SC lipid barrier is affected is atopic dermatitis (AD). This review addresses the SC lipid composition and organization in healthy skin, and elaborates on how these parameters are changed in lesional and nonlesional skin of AD patients. Concerning the lipid composition, the changes in the three main lipid classes and the importance of the carbon chain lengths of the lipids are discussed. In addition, this review addresses how these changes in lipid composition induce changes in lipid organization and subsequently correlate with an impaired skin barrier function in both lesional and nonlesional skin of these patients. Furthermore, the effect of filaggrin and mutations in the filaggrin gene on the SC lipid composition is critically discussed. Also, the breakdown products of filaggrin, the natural moisturizing factor molecules and its relation to SC-pH is described. Finally, the paper discusses some major changes in epidermal lipid biosynthesis in patients with AD and other related skin diseases, and how inflammation has a deteriorating effect on the SC lipids and SC biosynthesis. The review ends with perspectives on future studies in relation to other skin diseases.

Effect of borneol on the transdermal permeation of drugs with differing lipophilicity and molecular organization of stratum corneum lipids

The aim of the present paper was to investigate the promoting activity of borneol on the transdermal permeation of drugs with differing lipophilicity, and probe its alterations in molecular organization of stratum corneum (SC) lipids. The toxicity of borneol was evaluated in epidermal keratinocyte HaCaT and dermal fibroblast CCC-HSF-1 cell cultures and compared to known enhancers, and its irritant profile was also assessed by transepidermal water loss (TEWL) evaluation. The promoting effect of borneol on the transdermal permeation of five model drugs, namely 5-fluorouracil, antipyrine, aspirin, salicylic acid and ibuprofen, which were selected based on their lipophilicity denoted by logp value, were performed using in vitro skin permeation studies. Attenuated total reflection-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) was employed to monitor the borneol-induced alteration in molecular organization of SC lipids. The enhancer borneol displayed lower cytotoxicity or irritation in comparison to the well-established and standard enhancer Azone. Borneol could effectively promote the transdermal permeation of five model drugs, and its enhancement ratios were found to be parabolic curve with the logp values of drugs, which exhibited the optimum permeation activity for relatively hydrophilic drugs (an estimated logp value of −0.5 ∼0.5). The molecular mechanism studies suggested that borneol could perturb the structure of SC lipid alkyl chains, and extract part of SC lipids, resulting in the alteration in the skin permeability barrier.

Ceramides with a pentadecasphingosine chain and short acyls have strong permeabilization effects on skin and model lipid membranes

The composition and organization of stratum corneum lipids play an essential role in skin barrier function. Ceramides represent essential components of this lipid matrix; however, the importance of the individual structural features in ceramides is not fully understood. To probe the structure–permeability relationships in ceramides, we prepared analogs of N-lignoceroylsphingosine with shortened sphingosine (15 and 12 carbons) and acyl chains (2, 4 and 6 carbons) and studied their behavior in skin and in model lipid membranes. Ceramide analogs with pentadecasphingosine (15C) chains were more barrier-perturbing than 12C- and 18C-sphingosine ceramides; the greatest effects were found with 4 to 6C acyls (up to 15 times higher skin permeability compared to an untreated control and up to 79 times higher permeability of model stratum corneum lipid membranes compared to native very long-chain ceramides). Infrared spectroscopy using deuterated lipids and X-ray powder diffraction showed surprisingly similar behavior of the short ceramide membranes in terms of lipid chain order and packing, phase transitions and domain formation. The high- and low-permeability membranes differed in their amide I band shape and lamellar organization. These skin and membrane permeabilization properties of some short ceramides may be explored, for example, for the rational design of permeation enhancers for transdermal drug delivery.

Modulation of stratum corneum lipid composition and organization of human skin equivalents by specific medium supplements.

Our in-house human skin equivalents contain all stratum corneum (SC) barrier lipid classes, but have a reduced level of free fatty acids (FAs), of which a part is mono-unsaturated. These differences lead to an altered SC lipid organization and thereby a reduced barrier function compared to human skin. In this study, we aimed to improve the SC FA composition and, consequently, the SC lipid organization of the Leiden epidermal model (LEM) by specific medium supplements. The standard FA mixture (consisting of palmitic, linoleic and arachidonic acids) supplemented to the medium was modified, by replacing protonated palmitic acid with deuterated palmitic acid or by the addition of deuterated arachidic acid to the mixture, to determine whether FAs are taken up from the medium and are incorporated into SC of LEM. Furthermore, supplementation of the total FA mixture or that of palmitic acid alone was increased four times to examine whether this improves the SC FA composition and lipid organization of LEM. The results demonstrate that the deuterated FAs are taken up into LEMs and are subsequently elongated and incorporated in their SC. However, a fourfold increase in palmitic acid supplementation does not change the SC FA composition or lipid organization of LEM. Increasing the concentration of the total FA mixture in the medium resulted in a decreased level of very long chain FAs and an increased level of mono-unsaturated FAs, which lead to deteriorated SC lipid properties. These results indicate that SC lipid properties can be modulated by specific medium supplements.

Effect of menthone and related compounds on skin permeation of drugs with different lipophilicity and molecular organization of stratum corneum lipids

The objective of this article was to investigate the enhancing effect of menthone, menthol and pulegone on the transdermal absorption of drugs with different lipophilicity and probe their mechanisms of action at molecular level. Five model drugs, namely osthole, tetramethylpyrazine, ferulic acid, puerarin and geniposide, which were selected based on their lipophilicity denoted by logKo/w, were tested using in vitro permeation studies in which Franz diffusion cells and rat skin were employed. Infrared spectroscopy and molecular dynamic simulation were used to investigate the effect of these enhancers on the stratum corneum (SC) lipids, respectively. Three compounds could effectively promote the transdermal absorption of drugs with different lipophilicity, and the overall promoting capacities were in the following increasing order: pulegone < menthol < menthone. The penetration enhancement ratio was roughly in parabolic curve relationships with the drug lipophilicity after treatment with menthol or menthone, while the penetration enhancement effect of pulegone hardly changed with the alteration of the drug lipophilicity. The molecular mechanism studies suggested that menthone and menthol enhanced the skin permeability by disordering the ordered organization of SC lipids and extracted part of SC lipids, while pulegone appeared to promote drug transport across the skin only by extracting part of SC lipids.

Micron-scale assessment of molecular lipid organization in human stratum corneum using microprobe X-ray diffraction

Lipid and protein components of the stratum corneum (SC) are organized in complex supramolecular arrangements. Exploring spatial relations between various possible substructures is important for understanding the barrier function of this uppermost layer of epidermis. Here, we report the first study where micro-focus X-ray scattering was used for assessing fine structural variations of the human skin barrier with micrometer resolution. We found that the scattering profiles were unchanged when scanning in the direction parallel to the SC surface. Furthermore, small-angle scattering profiles did not change as a function of depth in the SC, confirming that the lipid lamellar spacings remained the same throughout the SC. However, the wide-angle scattering data showed that the orthorhombic phase was more abundant in the middle layers of the SC, whereas the hexagonal phase dominated in the surface layers both at the external and the lowest part of the SC; i.e., the lipids were most tightly packed in the middle region of the SC. Taken together, our results demonstrate that microprobe X-ray diffraction provides abundant information about spatial variations of the SC lipid structure and thus may be a promising tool for assessing the effects of topical formulations on the barrier function of skin.