PurposeDouble-jacquard technique is referred as the most advanced technology for forming patterns on both layers of a 3D fabric knitted on a double-needle bar warp-knitting machine. In order to realize the computer-aided design and simulation of jacquard patterns, the purpose of this paper is to propose a mathematic model for representation of jacquard structures and an improved mass-spring model to improve the simulation of structural deformation behavior.Design/methodology/approachPrimarily, it analyzes the jacquard patterning method and displacing principle to design jacquard structures on each layer and linking structures of two layers. Based on that, a loop geometry defined by six key points and segmental lines is built to transfer the jacquard bitmap and lapping movements into a fabric of loops and therefore realizing patterns visualization. Afterwards, an improved mass-spring model is built to simulate structural deformation, in which the fabric is simplified as a mesh of uniformly distributed mass particles. Each loop is treated as a massless particle while underlaps are referred as structural springs connecting loops particles. Elastic forces of these springs on each loop particle is calculated according to the Hook’s law and Newton’s second law, and then based on the explicit Euler’s equations, motion state of each particle is solved including the velocity and the shift.FindingsBased on the above method, a simulator for double-layer jacquard fabrics is developed via Visual C++ language to visualize the patterned fabrics with pitting effects. With a jacquard shoe fabric as an example, this simulation model is proved to be practical and efficient by comparing the simulation result and real fabric.Research limitations/implicationsBecause of limited researches, 3D simulation modeling of this double-layer jacquard fabric will be studied in the further research.Practical implicationsThe implement of this simulation method will offer the industries a time-saving and cost-saving approach for new fabrics development.Originality/valueThis approach can be used as a reference for simulating other knitted fabrics with jacquard patterns, such as jacquard garment fabrics and home textile fabrics.