Korean Traditional Costume Research Articles

Exploring direct and indirect cultural experiences: a study of global consumers’ Hanbok experience and engagement mediated via YouTube

With the rapid development of technology and media, people’s experiences of other cultures have shifted from direct only to a combination of direct and virtual experiences. This study investigated how global consumers directly and indirectly experience other cultures, mediated by YouTube. It focused on the consumer experience of the Korean traditional costume, the Hanbok. YouTube content focusing on Hanbok experiences was collected to understand the direct Hanbok experiences, while viewers’ reactions to YouTube content (i.e., views, likes, and comments) were collected to understand indirect Hanbok experiences. The analysis involved two steps. First, the latent Dirichlet allocation topic modeling algorithm in Python was used to extract topics from direct and indirect Hanbok experiences. Second, simple regression analysis was conducted using numerical data derived from textual data through linguistic inquiry and word count to examine the relationship between direct Hanbok experiences via YouTube and viewer engagement as an indicator of indirect Hanbok experiences. The results showed that YouTubers’ Hanbok experiences were categorized into seven topics, namely novelty, sensory, daily, cultural, trial, pleasing, and intellectual experiences. Indirect Hanbok experiences were identified based on dimensions of consumer engagement, such as social, cognitive, learning, behavioral, and affective engagement. The regression analysis results revealed that cultural and affective Hanbok experiences significantly impacted consumer engagement. This study expanded the scope of research by exploring indirect cultural experiences mediated by a media platform.

Intertextuality of Modern Korean Traditional Costumes Represented in “The Tiger is Coming”

Intertextuality represents the potential inherent in an object by reproducing and expanding the meaning innated in it. This study adopted a philosophic view to analytically examine modernization of Korea traditional costume. Fashion, as a communication medium, transfers its meaning according to different circumstances. Korean traditional clothing also has changed its appearances and has augmented its meanings by deconstructing and combining with other art forms as time passes. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to investigate the intertextuality reflected in modernization of traditional clothing shown in commercial clips of the Korea Tourism Organization; The tiger is coming. The images were collected through the internet and analyzed based on intertextuality of music and dance. The intertextuality of music and dance was identified by analyzing coordination methods and they were analyzed through intertextuality of Time Place Occasion (TPO) and gender. As a result, it shows intertextuality of TPO with music and dance represented in the images is a harmonization of the past and present, west and east, and the public and private. The intertextuality of gender in music and dance is associated with the androgynous style which extracts a popular expression from public contexts. The mix-and-match methods by which the dance team blends the modern with the traditional of Korean costume were successful and such outcomes are most clearly evidenced in the promotional video of Korea Tourism Organization. This study explores the particular importance of intertextuality within modernization of Korea traditional clothes and attention is drawn to ways in which the insight from future studies can be used for creative formation of traditional clothes.

An Application and Technology of SWIR Hyperspectral Image for Inconspicuous Textile Pattern Analysis

This study applied short-wave infrared (SWIR) hyperspectral imaging technology to analyze the textile pattern used in the Jeogori of Baekdamsa Temple. First introduced in 1748, the Jeogori is a very important relic in the study of Korean traditional costume. The garment w as designated as a national treasure in 1993, and the pattern in its yellow silk has been well established. However, obtaining the pattern information of its reddish purple decoration has proven to be quite challenging. In contrast to yellow, reddish purple is a color that is difficult for a camera to recognize; thus, analyzing patterns in this color using only high-definition digital or infrared photography is difficult. In this work, SWIR hyperspectral imaging technology, which has recently been used in investigations of cultural heritage sites, was applied to identify the textile pattern on the Jeogori of Baekdamsa Temple. The technology successfully identified the patterns of a Wan-character, dragon, and phoenix. This type of textile pattern was identified in Korea from the end of the 17th century to the early-to-mid-18th century. This study is meaningful because it not only provides a detailed image of the textile pattern on the Jeogori of Baekdamsa Temple, which has not been previously achieved, but also proposes a new strategy based on hyperspectral imaging technology for studying the cultural heritage of textiles.

사극 영화 ｢역린(逆鱗)｣의상 디자인 과정의 재매개(Remediation) 방식 연구

Historical dramas set in Korea have developed into K-content that the world is paying attention to. Historical dramas have a dichotomous structure, combining history and drama; but recently, they have been reborn as a form of complex media content called convergence historical drama. In this study, historical dramas are recognized as content that is set against the backdrop of history and intended to faithfully reproduce the clothing of the time. Historical drama costume design has evolved from a modified form of traditional costumes, to serve as an important visual medium for conveying information about the character, situation, etc. This paper uses Jay David Bolter and Richard Grusin’ remediation, theory of visual media to create a framework of creativity to understand the process of costume design in the Korean historical film 『The Fatal Encounter』. The design framework was presented in the form of representation, Absorption, refashion, Extension, which are remediation. It hope that this will help in the field of Korean traditional costumes research for K contents.

한국 전통복식의 유튜브(YouTube) 콘텐츠 현황 분석

The purpose of this study is to investigate the status of Korean traditional costume content on YouTube, which is known as the mainstream Korean-wave. The intention of this study to analyze whether Korean traditional costume is using specific media strategies through YouTube as an effort to advance overseas. Also, it is meaningful to identify the current address of Korean traditional costume content on YouTube for the continuous development of the Korean-wave, and to contribute as a basic material for vitalization of Korean-wave based on traditional culture. The following is a research process to investigate the status of YouTube content related to Korean traditional costume. The first is to select keywords used Goggle Trends, which is a search statistics service provided by Google. Considering that YouTube is a global site, searched shall be done in both Korean and English words. Therefore, as the final keywords, “Hanbok” and ‘한복’ were selected. Second, analyzed contents of each keyword were divided into year, number of views, the contents of each keyword are divided into 5 categories – year, the number of views, subjects, details, and running-time - to be analyzed and to derive the results. As a result, the useage of YouTube content using Korean traditional costume as an item is gradually incresing in many ways, but still insufficient. Therefore, the types of content, message strategy, storytelling, creative strategies, and types of sources need to be diversify. In conclutsion, YouTube, which is the subject of this study, has a limitation that it is difficult to generalize only the current situation because of the rapid change due th the characteristics of the internet space. Therefore, continuous observation on the subject is required, and a specific contents strategy based on the traditional culture is needed as its follw-up research.

Combining Korean Traditional Patterns and Batik Cirebon Banji Pattern in Daily Hanbok

The interest towards Korean culture has risen through the popularity of K-wave and thus artefacts related to Korea are gaining more interest as well. Hanbok , the Korean traditional costume is also increasingly popular, with people renting and wearing hanbok while visiting Korean traditional places. The popularity of hanbok led to the creation of daily hanbok , a modern interpretation of the traditional hanbok, which is easier and more comfortable to wear for the young generation while still retaining the beauty of the original costume. Cirebon, a coastal region in Indonesia, has a rich local cultural tradition influenced by Chinese culture. One of these influences can be observed in Cirebon’s batik, which uses Chinese influenced motifs, such as Cirebon’s banji pattern. Because there are similarities between Chinese and Korean culture, several Korean motifs are also found in banji patterns, such as the swastika, known as wan in China and man in Korea. This study tried to combine the traditional patterns from Korea and Cirebon’s banji pattern and implemented the result in a daily hanbok that can be worn by young people from Indonesia and Korea as a symbol of the close and harmonious relations between Indonesia and Korea.

교육과정 개발을 위한 의류학 교과과정 현황 분석 : 서울과 대구ㆍ경북지역을 중심으로

This study examined the current educational curricula in the field of clothing and textiles to provide insights into the development of a new curriculum for four-year domestic universities. A total of 33 departments offering 1,237 courses related to clothing and textiles were selected from 32 universities in Seoul and Daegu-Gyeongsangbuk-do province. Based on the course description posted on their school websites, major courses offered by the universities were divided into seven categories; textiles, clothing construction, fashion design, fashion marketing, costume history, Korean traditional costume studies, and others. Interdisciplinary studies, teaching profession courses, or minor courses provided by other departments apart from clothing and textiles were categorized under the ‘others’. Results revealed that most of the major courses were available in the third year and fashion design had the largest number of classes offered among the categories. The unusual courses offered by the universities in Seoul focused more on academic and theoretical contents whereas those by the universities in Daegu-Gyeongsangbuk-do province focused on skills or practical experiences in the clothing and textile fields. For elective courses, regardless of the regions, classes related to teaching profession were opened mostly in the third year and field training classes were mainly opened in the fourth year. Although some courses were provided to improve students’ voluntary learning skills and abilities to perform difficult projects, engage in interdisciplinary studies, and prepare for the technology-driven future, the number of classes were few.

Development and Utilization of Smart Festival Costumes for Korean Traditional Costumes and Chinese Traditional Costumes

Development and Utilization of Smart Festival Costumes for Korean Traditional Costumes and Chinese Traditional Costumes

A Comparative Study on the Aesthetic Characteristics of Contemporary Nomad Fashion and Korean Traditional Costume -Focused on Deleuze's Nomadism Aesthetics-

A Comparative Study on the Aesthetic Characteristics of Contemporary Nomad Fashion and Korean Traditional Costume -Focused on Deleuze's Nomadism Aesthetics-

트렌드세터(Trend-Setter)로서 조선후기 기생의 뷰티와 패션에 관한 연구

The Korean traditional costume and beauty structure have not been changed much since the period of the three States. Especially, women’s costume and make-up were more stationary. However, women’s clothes has just started to be changed from the mid-Choson period, and the clothes and make-up for Gisaeng had a great change in the late Joseon Dynasty. Gisaeng was more interested in fashion and beauty than the public did, and their class tended to seek a new change relatively faster than others. Thus, Gisaeng’s clothes style was leading a trendy fashion and beauty, and it impacted on other classes’ clothes style from the noble class to working one. As a trendsetter at that time, it affected Joseon Dynasty’s beauty behaviour and fashion structure, which has not changed for a long time. This research studied about which kinds of Gisaeng’s beauty and fashion, which adopted to change clothes style by women at that time, and did also about the way the make-up and clothes style of a special status as Gisaeng could be in vogue with which background. Through an examination of the theoretical background, it had a deep significance in the period, as well as when Gisaeng held influence over fashion in the late Joseon Dynasty. Classes of leisure were increased due to economic enhancements. In addition, a frank atmosphere of society was seen, as evidenced by Silhak. Women of the upper class wore clothing with gorgeous bottoms and skin-tight tops, which were popular among Gisaeng. Gisaeng wore sumptuous garments which subject to fewer social restrictions, in comparison to the clothing which ordinary women wore. Ordinary women had limits on their freedom, and had to wear thrifty clothes because of strict Confucianism values. Gisaeng could meet with the men of the ruling class and performed social activities as governed by Confucianism. Gisaeng became objects of attention among ordinary women. Noble women tried to imitate Gisaeng’s clothing, and ordinary women who accumulated wealth imitated Gisaeng’s sumptuous costume to hide their social status. By considering their role as trend-setters, the image of Gisaeng should be re-evaluated, as it has been distorted. A follow-up study should be conducted based on this subject’s needs.

동양미학적 관점에서 본 한국 전통복식의 조형적 특성 연구 : 조선시대를 중심으로

동양미학적 관점에서 본 한국 전통복식의 조형적 특성 연구 : 조선시대를 중심으로

한국 전통 복식을 응용한 작은 결혼식 의상 디자인

한국 전통 복식을 응용한 작은 결혼식 의상 디자인

한·중·일 전통 건축과 복식 비교를 통한 패션디자인 연구

한·중·일 전통 건축과 복식 비교를 통한 패션디자인 연구

SNS 인증샷에 나타난 한복의 조형적 특징 연구 : 여자한복을 중심으로

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of Hanbok among youngsters based on SNS proof shots, identify new characteristics of Hanbok as part of play and travel rather than as formal Hanbok, and provide information for the Hanbok market. As research methodology, our search was carried out by using '#Hanbok Travel' as the search word in Instagram, where the Hanbok proof shot phenomenon is actively under way. A total of 535 posts from March 21, 2016 to April 1, 2016 were selected as objects of this study, excluding posts containing Hanbok with indiscernible shape, Korean traditional costume manufacturers' promotional posts, and repetitive posts by one person. First, the 535 posts were analyzed by season, region, number of people, and gender, and after men's data were excluded, 644 Hanboks were left for analysis. Their formative characteristics were analyzed by using SPSS 21.0. The results showed that the formative characteristics of Hanbok shown in SNS proof shots included diversification of length in jeogori(Korean traditional jacket), skirt, and sleeve, use of pragmatic material and achromatic color, and reduced use of decorative technique. Hanboks shown in the Hanbok proof shots should be considered as significant data because each shots show clothes selected and worn directly by user's side, unlike the existing studies centering on Hanbok designers' works.

Sustainable apparel design strategies regenerated from traditional costumes of the Chosun Dynasty

PurposeThis study aims to provide insights to designers for seeking innovative ways to design sustainable clothes and appeal to consumers by enhancing sustainability.Design/methodology/approachTo achieve the research purpose, the researchers went through a design process and designed three prototypes. The experts’ evaluation on the prototypes was positive.FindingsVarious design strategies derived from the Korean traditional costume were explored. Based on the strategies, three prototypes were developed, and the design experts’ evaluation on the prototypes was positive.Originality/valueThe research has implications as follows. The sustainable design process and methods used in this research for developing designs inspired from cultural costumes will provide insights to designers who want to create sustainable garments inspired by a certain culture. In addition, the design and sustainable design strategies, derived from the Chosun Dynasty, will guide apparel designers to create sustainable designs and broaden their perspectives. Furthermore, the research will provide guidance to following researchers who are interested in the topic of sustainability in apparel design. The researchers explored sustainable design strategies from the Korean culture, applied them in their design process and evaluated the design outcomes. By doing so, merits and limitations of the design strategies were more clearly understood.

안동지역 축제의상 개발에 관한 연구

The purpose of this research is to industrialize and to localize traditional culture resources of Andong by developing festival costumes related to 'Andong Mask Dance Festival'. We tried several methods to deliver meanings and images of festival costumes, as followings. Frist, from April, 2009 to October, 2012, we created the new design of the festival costumes after consulting with 7 festival experts about the conditions and characteristics of 'Andong Mask Dance Festival'. The festival costume design is characterized by the detachable parts of clothing based on Han-bok style, the front and back of bodice, right and left side of both sleeves, and pockets, which can be tied up with strings. Therefore the consumers can choose and attach the part they want. Secondly, the newly created festival costumes were evaluated appropriately to the consumer's satisfaction, implementation, practicality, and long-term development possibility according to the survey of 85 participants who were, in fact, wearing the festival costumes in the festival. The results are as follows: Frist, festival costumes are based on Korean traditional costumes, and it appears wearing object as festival costumes. Secondly, traditional beauty and modern beauty are well matched up, so men and women of all ages are possible to wear. Thirdly, size of costume can be controlled, so it's easy to wear. Finally, construction method is very simple. The possibility of long-term development by various material development is needed.

A Study on Sustainability of Korean Traditional Costumes through Emotional Design

A Study on Sustainability of Korean Traditional Costumes through Emotional Design

The Expressive Characteristics of Modern Hanbok applying the Po(overcoat) in Joseon Dynasty

The Korean Hanbok designers could get great opportunities and position in the international fashion industry as adapting our traditional elements to the modern design. Also, As investigate to application of modern fashion design, it is significant to recognize about our tradition and let them understand Korean beauty in the world fashion market. In order to study this subject, both quantitative and qualitative research methods were used to analyse the design elements of Korean traditional costume used in the designer

A study on the Korean design motif and fashion design for the advancement of Korean fashion to the global market

The purpose of this study is to find an expression method for Korean fashion design that can have competitiveness in the global fashion market. For this, fashion specialists at home and abroad were interviewed, focusing on their opinions on the Korean motifs outlined in existing literature studies. First, aesthetic sense and expression characteristics that have appeared in existing studies on Korean art, Korean traditional costume, and Korean fashion were explored. As a result, they were categorized into: Modesty/plainness, freewheelingness, religion/custom, and humor/joke. During this process, Korean design motifs were extracted based on the aesthetic characteristic and expression method of aesthetic sense. According to the opinions on Korean design motifs and Korean fashion design works drawn from the interviews with fashion specialists at home and abroad, Changhomun was the favorite design motif to be utilized in Korean fashion design. The Korean specialists thought that visual design motifs were important, while the overseas specialists had more interest in abstract design motifs, which embody the background and story behind the motif. Regarding the fashion design associated with the Korean design motif, all specialists at home and abroad favored the design using ceramics and wrapping cloth. Regarding the choice of fashion image, Korean specialists chose the design utilizing Hangeul as the most Korean, while the foreign specialists chose designs reflecting the design motifs of Hangeul and Hanbok for women. The Korean specialists chose relatively more Korean images, while the foreign specialists chose more eastern images or other images than Korean images.

Using Traditional Costumes in the Design of Game Character Clothing for ‘Heungbu and Nolbu 1’ Series of On-line Game <i>Tales Runner</i>

‘Heongbu and Nolbu 1’ is a series of the on-line game ‘Tales Runner.’ It is based on a traditional Korean fairy tale. However, the game characters in Heongbu and Nolbu 1 wear casual clothes even though the game is set in the Joseon Dynasty. Therefore, this paper presents proposed game characters clothes based on traditional Korean costumes from the Joseon Dynasty. This work should help inspire gamers and game designers with the beauty of Korean traditional costumes and familiarize them with an aspect of Korean people’s identity. A literature review of online games and game characters was carried out, and game characters’ clothes were analyzed. The design motifs of historical relics of the Joseon era were evaluated. Three styles, one traditional and two “fusion” styles integrating traditional and modern elements were proposed for each of the 4 characters: Chowon, Ruff, Bada and Abell. The chulrik and jurip were used as design motifs for Chowon. A traditional chulrik, short chulriks and pants are suggested. Second, the dongari and jeonrip were used as design motifs for Ruff. A traditional dongdari, sapok pants, deck pants and a vest are suggested. Third, the jeogori and chima were used as design motifs for Bada. A traditional female hanbok, arm warmers, short-sleeved jeogori and dress are suggested. Fourth, the dang-ui and daeran-chima were used as design motifs for Abell. A traditional dang-ui and daeran-chima, blouse, skirt, jumper and tight Bermuda shorts are suggested. The length, shape and color were converted into new styles, but some traditional elements such as the git and goreum were retained. Keywords: game, character, traditional clothing