Kawabata Evaluation System Research Articles

Investigating parameters affecting the real and virtual drapability of silk fabrics for traditional Hanbok

This paper presents research into the parameters affecting the real and virtual drapability of silk fabrics for traditional Hanbok. The KES-FB (Kawabata evaluation system of fabric) and the CLO (3D fashion design software) fabric kit system were used to evaluate the physical properties. The relationships between physical properties and the drape coefficient of silk fabrics were statistically analyzed. It was determined whether the objectified real fabric data could be used and applied as a database when implementing virtual clothing using a 3D virtual clothing program. The KES-FB properties and CLO fabric kit results indicated that the bending property and weight were significantly correlated with the drape coefficient. The bending rigidity and weight per unit area were influential parameters of the drape coefficient. The regression analysis results of both the KES-FB and the CLO fabric kit revealed that bending rigidity and thickness were statistically significantly correlated with the drape coefficient. The bending property was the most determining parameter for the drape coefficient of silk fabrics. A statistically significant difference between the real and virtual drape coefficients of stiffer silk fabrics was found. In the CLO 7.1 program, the accuracy of drape implementation of virtual fabrics was found to be useful when the bending stiffness of the actual fabric was less than 0.089 gf·cm2/cm and the elasticity was more than 1.03%. The results revealed that more research on the program modeling method considering the mechanical and physical properties of the real fabric and its structure is needed.

Electromechanical properties of knitted structures for potential socks sensing systems

The use of knitted structure pressure sensors in wearable applications and health monitoring systems has attracted a great deal of attention. This study aims to assess the single jersey and double jersey knitted structures as well as the electromechanical characteristics of electrically conductive yarns (ECY). The knitted structures were made with two different types of electrically conductive yarn, including the (i) fully drawn yarn (FDY) and the (ii) drawn textured yarn (DTY). FDY had higher tensile strength than DTY in reference to their drawing and twisting processes. Based on the results in terms of tensile strength, conductive yarns of 280D-FDY and SPFX25070-FX were chosen from seven available conductive yarns for the further production of knitted structures. Additionally, the knittability of the conductive yarn was also considered. Due to the knit-tuck stitch assembly, which increases the thickness of the structure, it was found that the double Lacoste, popcorn, and milano ribs had the necessary compression resistance. The compression properties of the knitted structures were tested using the kawabata evaluation system (KES FB-03). It was found that the recommended knitted structure sensing technology can be easily expanded into a scalable and affordable solution for the production of smart socks and related applications.

Enhancing Cotton Fabric Softness and Wrinkle Resistance through Optimized Formulation of Nano ZnO and Benzalkonium Chloride-Enriched RinseCycle Softener

This work attempts optimization of a multifunctional single rinse softener formulation for cotton fabric for domestic usage, catering to the growing customer demand for softeners with enhanced performance. Present section is part-I of the entire study. The primary objective is to determine the effects of optimized and developed formulation on softness and wrinkle resistance properties. We synthesized polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) stabilized nano-ZnO particles using the sol-gel method and characterized them using UV-VIS spectrophotometry, particle size analyser and X-ray diffraction. Atomic absorption spectrometry (AAS), and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) techniques were utilized for fabric sample analysis. Objective measurements using the Kawabata evaluation system, subjective softness assessments and crease recovery angle were recorded. The results demonstrated a significant enhancement in fabric softness, crease recovery and low stress mechanical properties through the application of this single rinse softener formulation. Any improving or diminishing effects on softness and crease recovery angle due to the presence of nano-ZnO (nano zinc oxide) and BAC (Bezalkonium chloride) were insightful.

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES CORRESPONDING TO COMFORT FEEL OF BEDDING FABRICS

The market for bedding products in Thailand now offers a wide range of physical attributes (fiber types, structures, fabric densities, thicknesses, and weights) that produce a variety of tactile sensations and comfort qualities. This study investigated the comfort properties of bedding fabrics in Thailand. Twenty-one bedding fabric samples were collected and measured for their mechanical and surface properties based on the Kawabata evaluation system for fabric (KES-F) as well as the horizontal wicking test and abrasion resistance, air permeability, wrinkle recovery, and thermal resistance (Qmax). The primary hand value (HV) and total hand value (THV) were calculated using the Kawabata hand evaluation equation KN-201-LDY describing women's thin dress fabric, using 5 different properties from the KES-F (tensile, shear, bending, compression, and surface friction). The principle component analysis (PCA) and cluster analysis of the physical properties of fabric samples showed that the samples could be placed in 4 groups. The first group was mostly cotton woven samples. The second group consisted of 2 samples that were both knitted, while the third group was mostly mixed (M) fabric samples. The last group contained cotton and M cotton samples. The first cluster was considered to provide the best hand-feel characteristics of all 4 clusters, while the second cluster was considered the least desirable based on hand-feel. The findings of this study should assist the bedding textile sector in developing new products.

A model for predicting the similarity between real and virtual T-shirts based on sensory evaluation and image quantitative index evaluation

Reported herein is a model for evaluating and predicting the similarity between real clothing and clothing simulated by the virtual fitting software Vidya, the aim being to estimate accurately the similarity between real and virtual clothing. Firstly, we make real T-shirts and virtual T-shirts. According to Kawabata Evaluation System test parameters, 24 kinds of digital fabrics were constructed, and 96 virtual T-shirts were modeled from these digital fabrics. Then, 24 real T-shirts were made from the corresponding fabric. After that, the similarity evaluation indexes of virtual T-shirts and real T-shirts were extracted. Expert evaluation and digital image processing were used to evaluate the visual sense of the images and extract the indices of the evaluation-site images. Finally, the principal component analysis (PCA)-backpropagation (BP) evaluation model was established. Based on PCA, effective evaluation indices for real and virtual T-shirts were selected to construct an evaluation index system of clothing modeling and a BP neural network evaluation model. After repeatedly debugging the number of neurons, the model was optimized with four hidden-layer neurons, and the overall correlation coefficient R of the model reached 0.91075. In this paper, an evaluation index system for real and virtual T-shirts was constructed and, based on the indices, a rapid method for evaluating the virtual fitting modeling effect based on the PCA-BP model was established, which also provides a reference for the whole process of modeling evaluation of other virtual fitting software.

Characterization of embroidered textile-based electrode for EMG smart wear according to stitch technique

This study fabricated and evaluated the textile-type electrodes for application to smartwear that can measure surface electromyography(sEMG). It was manufactured by lock stitch(LS) and moss stitch(MS), and the stitch distance was prepared as 1, 2, or 3 mm. The surface and compression property was measured by using the Kawabata evaluation system, and the sheet resistance and skin-electrode impedance were analyzed. The coefficient of friction(MIU) of the MS was larger than that of the LS. On the other hand, the geometrical roughness(SMD) showed a smaller value. When the same load was applied, the compressive range of the MS was larger than the LS. When it was manufactured as a leg sleeve and worn, the conductive path could be increased as the loops made of conductive yarn become flat as the loops adhere to the skin by the pressure of clothing. Accordingly, the skin-electrode impedance decreased by increasing the area in contact with the skin. As the results of the RMS(root-mean-square), the LS was higher than the MS in a stable. Nevertheless, the SNR(signal-to-noise ratio) value was lower than that of the MS because movement generated noise during operation. Therefore, more stable signal acquisition is possible when applying MS. It is expected that could be applied to producing smartwear for sEMG measurements with superior sEMG signal acquisition performance while having a softer touch and flexibility.

Development of UV monomer-contained dye inks for high-quality printing application on polyester fabrics without pretreatment

The use of direct inkjet printing in the textile industry is an environmentally friendly option. However, the need for pretreatment of most fabrics before digital printing has been a major issue. In this study, a green and straightforward approach was developed that enhances printing accuracy without requiring any pretreatment. A novel waterborne disperse dye-based inkjet ink containing polyethylene glycol diacrylate (PEGDA) was developed that significantly improved the rheology of ink drops on the surface, resulting in superior printing quality on polyester fabric. The printing mechanism of the inks was thoroughly investigated by evaluating their conductivity, pH, particle size, surface tension, viscosity, and ink droplet formation. Real-time photo-rheological and low field nuclear magnetic resonance (LF-NMR) analyses were performed to investigate the behavior of the ink drops on the polyester fabric surface. Finally, the Kawabata evaluation system (KES) was employed to understand the impact of direct digital printing on fabric performance.

Investigations of Three‐Layer Systems Intended for Protective Clothing for Prematurely Born Babies

AbstractOne of the most significant problems occurring among premature babies is high transepidermal water loss and associated heat loss. To prevent this problem protective clothing for premature babies is developed which consists of a membrane that allows partial transmission of water vapor, combined with other textile materials. The purpose of this work is to characterize two pre‐selected three‐layer systems in terms of biophysical properties that fulfill their requirements for premature infants. Samples of materials are investigated to determine biophysical comfort (tests of thermal resistance, water vapor resistance and air permeability), mass per unit area and thickness. In order to visualize the structure and chemical composition of the tested materials, Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) were performed. The mechanical properties of the investigated materials and the evaluation of the total hand value were also characterized; the samples were tested on a Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) device. Protective garments designed for premature babies should be characterized by high thermal insulation and moisture barrier properties. In addition, it should have optimal air permeability properties and fairly low surface weight in order not to burden the baby's delicate skin.

Appraisal of hand value of denim fabrics

Purpose Denim fabric has become a wardrobe staple due to its versatility to be worn in a variety of fashions. This paper aims to study denim fabrics to understand their unique hand by developing a hand evaluation system using computational method. Also, the effect of various washes was studied on the hand and surface morphology of denim fabrics. Design/methodology/approach Five different denim samples were manufactured with various washing treatments. The Kawabata Evaluation System was used to measure the low stress mechanical properties. Computation method was used to develop hand equations using multiple regression technique in the MS Excel software. The correlation coefficient analysis was done to determine the authenticity of the developed equations. Five primary hand attributes such as softness, smoothness, fullness, flexibility and stretchability were shortlisted by a panel of judges that influence the fabric handle. Findings The correlation coefficient between subjective and computational total hand values with thermal properties and without thermal properties was 0.88 and 0.85, respectively. The enzymatic wash fabric has the highest total hand value followed by the acid, bleach and stone-washed fabrics. Originality/value Although the hand evaluation system is available for conventional textiles like suiting and shirting fabrics, the method to predict fabric hand of non-conventional textiles such as denim fabrics remains an unexplored topic. The stresses acting on denim fabrics are completely different. Therefore, to the best of the author’s knowledge, a novel attempt has been made in this research work to develop a computational model to predict the total hand value of denim fabrics.

Tactile Perception of Woven Fabrics by a Sliding Index Finger with Emphasis on Individual Differences

Haptic sensing by sliding fingers over a fabric is a common behavior in consumers when wearing garments. Prior studies have found important characteristics that shape the evaluation criteria and influence the preference of consumers regarding fabrics. This study analyzed the tactile perception of selected woven fabrics, with an emphasis on the participants’ individual differences. Individual differences generally are discarded in sensory experiments by averaging them. Small differences among consumers can be important for understanding the factors driving consumer preferences. For this study, 28 participants assessed fabrics with very distinct surface, compression, and heat transferring properties by sliding their index fingers along the surface of the fabric. The participants also engaged in a descriptive sensory analysis. The physical properties of the fabric were measured using the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-F) system. Moreover, parameters at the finger–fabric interface, such as the contact force, finger speed, and skin vibration, were measured during the assessment. This study used analysis of variance to eliminate nonsignificant attributes. Consonance analysis was performed using principal component analysis (PCA) on the unfolded sensory and interface data matrices. Finally, the physical and interface data were regressed onto sensory data. The results showed that the contact force and finger speed were nonsignificant, while skin vibration was a possible replacement for surface physical properties measured by the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-F) system with an equal or slightly improved explainability.

Development and performance of jacquard woven retro-reflective textiles with African design patterns

Retro-reflective materials are important for safety purposes, such as enhancing the visibility of pedestrians at night when they wear garments with reflective materials and therefore reducing pedestrian fatalities. This has challenged different manufacturers to produce effective materials that provide the best retro-reflection. Most of these materials are applied as stripes on clothing, but can also extend to artisans using reflective yarns in their creations. Nevertheless, there is a lack of research and the synthesis of reflective yarns and African design patterns (due to its symbolic value for the African people) to create effective textiles that have the necessary properties for visibility at night. In this research work, a new approach is adopted by using a design process that combines jacquard weaving technology, reflective threads and African design patterns to produce retro-reflective textiles. The subsequent reflective effects captured in a darkroom show the retro-reflective ability of the samples. The testing carried out by using the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics shows that the total hand value (THV) of the samples makes them suitable for men’s winter dress shirts and women’s thin winter dresses (with positive values) but not suitable for the summer garment (with negative values) counterparts respectively. This new approach might extend the ideation to produce retro-reflective textiles that can be applied for many different uses.

Ultra-fine self-powered interactive fiber electronics for smart clothing

Fiber electronics discretely integrated into daily life is taking center stage for its enormous potentials for healthcare, physiological monitoring, and human-machine interfaces. However, the state-of-the-art fiber electronics are remarkably distinguished from generic fibers in diameter, stiffness, smoothness, and productivity. Here, we developed a universal scalable manufacturing process and generic fiber-like fine and soft self-powered interactive electronics with a diameter of only dozens of μm and a continuous length of hundreds of kilometers. These fiber electronics are prepared with a large-scale manufacturing speed (>20 m/min), and adapt to modern textile technology including weaving, knitting, sewing and embroidering. Moreover, Kawabata evaluation system for fabrics was systematically employed to analyze the fiber electronics enabled e-textile’s sensorial comfort, suggesting that adding the fiber electronics to fabric benefits its tactile sensations (e.g., softness, fluffy and fullness). Based on tribotronics, the interactive fiber electronics-based smart clothing demonstrates versatile applications including biomechanical energy harvesting, vital signal detecting, human motion recognizing and tactile sensing.

The effects of pretreatment on the surface roughness of plain-woven fabric by the Kawabata Evaluation System

This study aims to assess the relationship between the surface roughness of cotton plain-woven fabric before and after each pretreatment processing stage. According to the findings of this study, the surface roughness values of desized fabric increased in the warp and weft directions. On the other hand, the roughness of plain-woven fabric reduced in both the warp and weft directions during the scouring, bleaching, and mercerization processes. The weft roughness values of greige, scoured, bleached, and mercerized fabrics are higher than the warp roughness values. Mercerized fabrics provide the smoothest fabric surface compared to other treatment stages. The pretreatment stages have statistically significant impacts on the surface roughness in both the warp and weft directions at a 95% confidence interval. The pairwise analysis reveals that pretreatment of the fabrics in the warp and weft directions is statistically significant for grey with desizing, grey with scouring, grey with bleaching, grey with mercerizing, desizing with scouring, desizing with bleaching, desizing with mercerization, scouring with mercerization, and bleaching with mercerization, but not for scouring with bleaching. Mercerized fabric is highly recommended for producing textile products with unique requirements in terms of tactilely sensitive surface properties.

Effect of New Functional Dye on Some Comfort Attributes of Suiting Wool Fabrics Using Kawabata Evaluation System

Effect of New Functional Dye on Some Comfort Attributes of Suiting Wool Fabrics Using Kawabata Evaluation System

Layer by layer deposition of PEDOT, silver and copper to develop durable, flexible, and EMI shielding and antibacterial textiles

Nowadays due to rapid development and advancement in electronic and communication technology, human and other living beings are continually exposed to Electromagnetic Radiations. Electromagnetic shielding materials have received a great attention for hindering harmful radiations that influence the accuracy of devices and the health of living beings. In this study, flexible and conductive textile was fabricated by using different deposition techniques for the development of comfortable maternity garment to save fetus and mother from disastrous radiations. 100 % cotton with GSM 250 was opted and coatings were carried out on the surface by Poly (3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene): a conductive polymer by using dipping and drying method while conductive fillers Copper (Cu) and Silver (Ag) by electroless deposition technique. The developed fabric was investigated for elemental analysis, FTIR to find out the functional groups and XRD to discover the crystalline nature of the material whereas, Electromagnetic Interference Shielding effectiveness was inspected by using Vector Network Analyzer (VNA) ranging from 9 kHz to 13.6 GHz and had presented a good shielding effectiveness (SE) of about 45 dB. The treated fabric showed excellent antibacterial activity. The comfort properties of coated fabric were evaluated by KAWABATA evaluation system. The developed fabric is a novel shielding material for maternity garments that is low cost, light weight, durable, comfortable and could perform comprehensively.

Kawabata Analysis of Cotton Denim Fabrics Treated with Industrial Washing Techniques

ABSTRACT Garment washing of denim fabrics is essential for fading of color, aesthetic effects, vintage look and improvement in handle properties of resulting garments. Denim fabrics of two types, one standard fabric (non-stretch) and other with 2% elastane fiber (stretch), are washed with different industrial washing techniques on Tonello sampling machine. The objective evaluation of handle and mechanical properties of the washed samples are carried out on Kawabata evaluation system (KES-F). Five main characteristics of fabrics are evaluated on KES-F system. The mechanical properties like tensile energy, extensibility and compression energy have increased for both stretch and non-stretch fabrics, while bending stiffness and bending hysteresis have decreased for both types of washed fabrics. The geometrical surface roughness and coefficient of friction have slightly increased after employed washing techniques. The optical microscope is used to investigate the surface changes of the fabric after the employed washing techniques.

The effect of ecological washing treatments on the comfort properties of dyed cotton fabrics

Ecological washing treatments are being widely applied for textile finishing. However, these treatments may cause changes in the mechanical and surface properties of textile materials, thus influence the tactile properties of fabrics. These sensitive low-stress mechanical properties will affect the comfort of the human body. In this work, the changes in comfort properties of dyed cotton fabrics, after ecological new bleach and enzymatic washing treatments, are systematically investigated using a tensile testing machine - the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-FB) - and the air permeability tester. The results show that mechanical and fabric hand properties are differently affected by the different treatments. Finished cotton samples were found suppler and rougher than the untreated fabric due to the mechanical friction during the finishing cycle, including fabric-to-fabric and fabric-to-machine friction. As a result of our finishing treatment, tensile strength, bending properties, air permeability and thermal conductivity are decreased, however, the compressibility (EMC) tends to increase after the various finishing treatments. Moreover, the best bending properties, which reflect the flexibly of the fabric, are obtained for the new bleached sample. The possible origins for the changes mentioned above - caused by the different treatments- are evaluated and discussed.

Assessment of the Impact of the Surface Modification Processes of Cotton and Polyester Fabrics with Various Techniques on Their Structural, Biophysical, Sensory, and Mechanical Properties.

This article presents research on the assessment of the impact of surface modification of cotton and polyester fabrics using four techniques (flocking, layer by layer, screen printing and thermal-transfer printing) on their structural, mechanical, biophysical, and sensory properties. Depending on geometry and raw materials of the fabrics, the clothing made of them it is characterized by certain biophysical properties which are intended to protect the human body against external factors, but also against excessive sweating and overheating or cooling down. The aforementioned properties of the modified textiles were determined with: optical microscopy, microcomputed tomography, a tensile testing machine, sweating guarded-hotplate, air permeability tester, and the Kawabata evaluation system. Based on analysis of obtained results, it can be concluded that flocking reduces air permeability the most (−77% for cotton fabric and −99.7% for polyester fabric), and total hand value (−58% and −57%) and increases water vapor resistance the most (+769% and +612%) while the screen printing increases the thermal resistance the most (+119% and +156%) compared to unmodified textiles. It can be concluded that, when modifying textile substrates, the area of modification and their size on clothing products should be carefully selected so as not to adversely affect the feelings of potential wearers.

Integration of nanocomposite finishing on polyester fabric for enhanced UV protection, performance, and comfort properties

This research focuses on the integration between functional finishing and the performance properties of polyester fabric for comfortable clothes. The effects of nanofinishing (zinc oxide nanoparticles and nano-polyurethane nanocomposite) on the ultraviolet protection properties of polyester fabric, the whiteness index, and the Kawabata Evaluation System were studied. Under the optimum finishing conditions, excellent protection (150) was achieved at lower concentrations of the nanocomposite, and zinc oxide nanoparticles individually enhanced the whiteness index (73). The results of the Kawabata Evaluation System showed that the finishing processes improved mechanical and performance properties (tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface roughness, thermal, and hand properties), indicating that all the finished fabrics offered enhanced functionality, thermal and comfort properties. Enhanced total hand value properties (3.7 for summer and 5.1 for winter) were realized by finishing, assuming the finished fabrics were applied to men’s shirts and women’s dresses for summer and winter apparel. Scanning electron microscopy and energy disperse X-ray spectroscopy analyses showed a uniform layer of zinc oxide nanoparticles and nano polyurethane on the fiber surface. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy confirmed the structural changes in the finished fabric.

Comparison of sensorial comfort properties of different cotton fabrics using the Kawabata Evaluation System

Cotton fabrics are among the most preferred fabrics for both underwear and outerwear. The sensory comfort properties of the fabrics are important for consumers’ choice of clothing. The majority of consumers visually like the clothes that they buy and try to feel these features sensually by touching them, and then, they may want to try the garment or they can make direct purchasing decisions according to these tactile feelings. In this study, the sensorial properties of a double-layered cotton fabric developed for use as a garment were compared and evaluated with cotton plain woven and interlock fabrics currently used in the market for this purpose. Sensorial comfort properties of the fabrics were researched with KES-F Kawabata equipment.