Intermediate Climbers Research Articles

Cognitive-behavioural processes during route previewing in bouldering

IntroductionIn the Olympic climbing discipline of bouldering, climbers can preview boulders before actually climbing them. Whilst such pre-climbing route previewing is considered as central to subsequent climbing performance, research on cognitive-behavioural processes during the preparatory phase in the modality of bouldering is lacking. The present study aimed at extending existing findings on neural efficiency processes associated with advanced skill level during motor activity preparation by examining cognitive-behavioural processes during the previewing of boulders. MethodsIntermediate (n = 20), advanced (n = 20), and elite (n = 20) climbers were asked to preview first, and then attempt two boulders of different difficulty levels (boulder 1: advanced difficulty; boulder 2: elite difficulty). During previewing, climbers’ gaze behaviour was gathered using a portable eye-tracker. ResultsLinear regression revealed for both boulders a significant relation between participants’ skill levels and both preview duration and number of scans during previewing. Elite climbers more commonly used a superficial scan path than advanced and intermediate climbers. In the more difficult boulder, both elite and advanced climbers showed longer preview durations, performed more scans, and applied less often a superficial scan path than in the easier boulder. ConclusionFindings revealed that cognitive-behavioural processes during route previewing are associated with climbing expertise and boulder difficulty. Superior domain-specific cognitive proficiency seems to account for the expertise-processing-paradigm in boulder previewing, contributing to faster and more conscious acquisition of perceptual cues, more efficient visual search strategies, and better identification of representative patterns among experts.

Self-assessment of strength abilities in climbing: Impact of skill level

Introduction
 Many climbers believe that they are stronger in crimp finger position than in open hand position. However, compared to open hand, crimped fingers are associated with higher pulley forces increasing the risk of injuries. Climbing expertise may influence the estimation of strength, i.e., the better the climber, the better the self-assessment. This study therefore aimed to find out whether climbing expertise influences self-assessment of finger flexor strength in half-crimp and in open hand position.
 Methods
 Data was collected at the Hands-On Science Booth of the Climbing World Championships in Bern. Participants had to fill out a questionnaire including a self-assessment of their climbing expertise and of their maximum finger strength for both hands as well as both finger positions. Afterwards, maximum finger strength was measured on an instrumented campus board: Participants placed the to-be-measured hand on a self-selected rung (depth of 23 mm) and then tried to transfer as much force as possible from their feet to their fingers.
 Results
 The analysis was based on 38 intermediate and 36 advanced climbers. Due to the limited number of participants in the lower grade (n = 0) and elite (n = 2) level, those skill levels were not considered. Advanced climbers generated significantly greater forces than intermediate climbers across all four measured conditions (t-tests, all p < 0.01). For both groups, neither in the dominant nor in the non-dominant hand a significant difference in maximum force was observed, e.g., dominant hand, intermediates: or advanced climbers: . Intermediate climbers did neither over- nor underestimate their strength in half-crimp position compared to open hand (paired t-test, p = 0.91 for dominant, p = 0.077 for non-dominant hand). In contrast to the dominant hand, advanced climbers significantly overestimated their strength in half-crimp position for the non-dominant hand (on average 9%, Cohen’s d 0.64, p < 0.01).
 Discussion/Conclusion
 Our results confirm the positive correlation between finger strength and climbing level. We also confirm that on a 23 mm rung, greater forces can be generated with in open hand compared to half-crimp (Winkler et al., 2023). With larger hold depths, force generated in open hand significantly increases (Amca et al., 2012), while for smaller holds, force exerted in half-crimp position exceeds that of open hand (Winkler et al., 2023). Hence, at least for larger holds, we recommend adopting an open hand position as preventive measure against finger injuries. Advanced climbers may tend to inaccurately self-assess their strength due to their greater engagement with peers, potentially leading to the circulation of misinformation. Note that participants were instructed to provide a general self-assessment of their strength rather than for a 23 mm deep rung, i.e., they may have had a smaller hold in mind.
 References
 Amca, A. M., Vigouroux, L., Aritan, S., & Berton, E. (2012). Effect of hold depth and grip technique on maximal finger forces in rock climbing. Journal of Sports Sciences, 30(7), 669-677. https://doi.org/10.1080/02640414.2012.658845
 Winkler, M., Künzell, S., & Auguste, C. (2023). Competitive performance predictors in speed climbing, bouldering, and lead climbing. Journal of Sport Sciences, 41(8), 736-746. https://doi.org/10.1080/02640414.2023.2239598

Flexibility and mobility parameters in climbers and non-climbers

Purpose: In recent years, climbing has become increasingly popular and now has more enthusiasts and research interest than ever before. However, no study has yet considered the relationships between the functional mobility of the upper and lower limbs, climbing experience, climbing-specific hip mobility, and muscle strength. The purpose of this study was to determine whether functional mobility (measured using shoulder mobility and active straight leg raise tests) or climbing-specific hip mobility (measured using an adapted Grant foot raise test [hip flexion] and lateral foot reach test [hip abduction and external rotation determines climbing skills. Methods: A total of 59 volunteer climbers in 3 groups (elite climbers, intermediate climbers, and non-climbers) were assessed according to anthropometry, muscle strength, functional mobility, and hip mobility. Results: Elite climbers performed significantly better than intermediate climbers and non-climbers in tests of the external mobility of the left shoulder (p = .043; η2 = 0.112) and in the adapted Grant foot raise test (p = .023; η2 = 0.126). Conclusions: Elite climbers have greater hip mobility than intermediate climbers and non-climbers. Functional shoulder mobility, especially external rotation, may play a role in effective climbing.

Upper body rate of force development and maximal strength discriminates performance levels in sport climbing.

The aim of this study was to assess and compare the maximal force and rate of force development (RFD) between intermediate, advanced and elite climbers using several different methods for calculating RFD. Fifty-seven male climbers (17 intermediate, 25 advanced, and 15 elite) performed isometric pull-ups on a climbing-specific hold while the RFD was calculated using several absolute (50, 100, 150, 200, and 250 ms from onset of force) and relative time periods (25, 50, 75, 95, and 100% of time to peak force). The maximal force was higher among elite climbers compared to advanced (ES = 1.78, p < 0.001) and intermediate climbers (ES = 1.77, p < 0.001), while no difference was observed between intermediate and advanced climbers (P = 0.898). The elite group also showed higher RFD than the other two groups at all relative time periods (ES = 1.02–1.58, p < 0.001–0.002), whereas the absolute time periods only revealed differences between the elite vs. the other groups at 50, 100 and 150 ms from the onset of force (ES = 0.72–0.84, p = 0.032–0.040). No differences in RFD were observed between the intermediate and advanced groups at any time period (p = 0.942–1.000). Maximal force and RFD, especially calculated using the longer periods of the force curve, may be used to distinguish elite climbers from advanced and intermediate climbers. The authors suggest using relative rather than absolute time periods when analyzing the RFD of climbers.

The effects of change in the safety rope protocol, hold size, and rest period on psychophysiological responses in sport rock climbers

PurposeThe aim of the study was to evaluate the effects of a decrease in hold size, change in the safety rope protocol, and rest period shortening on heart rate (HR), heart rate variability (HRV), pre-climb anxiety, and perceived workload in sport rock climbers under laboratory settings.MethodsA total of 12 intermediate sport rock climbers were recruited. The participants completed 2 routes of different climbing difficulty. They repeated the difficult route with a short 5-minute rest period 3 times and repeated the same route with a change to lead climb. HR, HRV, anxiety level (Competitive State Anxiety Inventory-2 Revised), and climbing workload (NASA&lt;sub&gt;climbing&lt;/sub&gt; questionnaire) were measured.Results and conclusionsIt was lead climb that elicited the most noticeable psychophysical response in the intermediate climbers. Prior to the climb, the performers exhibited marked sympathetic activation and higher cognitive anxiety. Climbing HR&lt;sub&gt;peak&lt;/sub&gt; was correlated with physical workload, psychological demand, and increasing fatigue; hence, it can be considered a variable that reflects the accumulative psychophysiological stress. NASA&lt;sub&gt;climbing&lt;/sub&gt; score effectively reflected differences in physical load (physical demand – strength and endurance) and psychological load (higher mental demand, temporal demand, and satisfaction level) during climbing.

INVERSE HEART RATE-POWER RELATIONSHIP IN EXPERIENCED, INTERMEDIATE, and NOVICE INDOOR ROCK CLIMBERS 1254

Rock climbing is an activity that has the potential to place both physical and emotional stress on participants. To test the hypothesis that novice rock climbers would be marked by low power output and high heart rates while climbing in a controlled situation, 32 volunteers climbed a 12m indoor rock wall at a self determined pace while wearing standard safety equipment. Based on previous climbing experience, volunteers were categorized as NOVICE (N=17), INTERMEDIATE(N=6) or EXPERIENCED(N=9). Heart rate was recorded during climbing using Polar CIC HR monitor. HRbot was measured at the bottom of the rock wall. HRtop was defined as the value at the top of the rock wall at the end of the vertical climb. Body weight, vertical displacement, and elapsed time were used to calculate power output during climbing. ANOVA and Schette S were used to test for significant (.05) differences. Body weight was not different between groups. There no between group differences in HRbot. HRtop was significantly lower in the experienced climbers(x=138±23) than in either intermediate (143±12) or NOVICE(156±13). Whole body power output was significantly higher in EXPERIENCED climbers (x=183±55 watts) than in NOVICE (x=96±36 watts). There was no difference in calculated power between INTERMEDIATE(176±48 watts) and EXPERIENCED groups. This data suggests that the HR response to rock climbing is not likely to be indicative of aerobic power output as in many recreational activities. The elevation of HRtop in NOVICE and INTERMEDIATE climbers may be the result of increased isometric and isotonic arm contractions as they hold their position on the rock wall in order to decide upon a route. Additionally, there may have been a psychological stress component effecting HR. Borg's 20 point rating of perceived exertion (RPE) administered to all climbers. The NOVICE RPE at the end of the climb was x=12.2±3 while RPE was x=10.3±2.3 and x= 8.7±2.0 in INTERMEDIATE and EXPERIENCED climbers. The degree to which RPE ratings were influenced by physical stress versus fear was not explored in this investigation.