Ice Axes Research Articles

“Trolls climbing up my spine with ice axes”: Assessing intrusive mental imagery associated with chronic pain - a prospective observational diary study

“Trolls climbing up my spine with ice axes”: Assessing intrusive mental imagery associated with chronic pain - a prospective observational diary study

Volodymyr Pilat – the creator and leader of the Fighting Hopak style. Contribution to the modern history of Ukrainian martial arts

Many nations today promote their historical martial arts and combat sports. This may result from the need to emphasize their own national traditions and cultural heritage. Thanks to outstanding figures, enthusiasts and people with a sense of mission, traditions that are partly lost are being created or restored. An example is Grand Master Volodymyr Pilat – the creator of the system called Boiovyi hopak (Battle / Combat hopak). The author, based on a direct interview and available publications, presents his path to the creation of this martial art, which is also a combat sport, and the establishment of an international federation, which indicates an already advanced institutional development. An analysis of sources was also used, including film materials and photos (visual anthropology). The specificity of this fighting art is shown, which is strongly related to the experiences of of Master Pilat’s “way of the warrior”. Boiovyi hopak was created on the basis of Cossack traditions and the experience of Volodymyr Pilat’s “way of the warrior”. The historical hopak was a dance. It is often practised with music. Among the traditional weapons there are a long stick, sabre, pike, scythe, sickle, mace, flail and ice axe.

Mt. Rainier Sanctification

Mt. Rainier Sanctification

Ice Axes for Frozen Seas: A Biblical Theology of Provocation. By Walter Brueggemann

Ice Axes for Frozen Seas: A Biblical Theology of Provocation. By Walter Brueggemann

Book review: Ice Axes for Frozen Seas: A Biblical Theology of Provocation, written by Walter Brueggemann

Book review: Ice Axes for Frozen Seas: A Biblical Theology of Provocation, written by Walter Brueggemann

Ice axes for frozen seas: a biblical theology of provocation

Ice axes for frozen seas: a biblical theology of provocation

Paul Petzoldt's sliding middleman snow technique

The Sliding Middleman snow technique enables fast progress across snowfields. With little rope handling, it is more efficient than other belaying techniques on snow and safer than roped teams relying just on ice axe arrests to stop a fall. Interestingly its use is uncommon. Perhaps this is because it is difficult to document the details of how to actually do it. This article endeavors to detail exactly how to accomplish the technique and is explained with photographs to clarify how it works. The authors have used this technique successfully over the years in spring mountaineering conditions. They believe that it is a useful technique especially with a group of around 12 students new to snow climbing.

Biomechanical analysis of the strike motion in ice-climbing activity

Ice climbing is a recent sport. One of its critical aspects consists in securely placing the ice axe into the ice in order to use it as a safe support for progression. This strike motion is relativ...

The Death of Leon Trotsky

Leon Trotsky was one of the founders of the Soviet Union and an obvious candidate to replace Lenin after his death. Unfortunately for him, it was Joseph Stalin who came to power, and Trotsky went into a long forced exile that eventually took him to Mexico, where he found asylum. On August 20, 1940, a Stalinist agent wounded Trotsky in the head with an ice axe in his house in Coyoacán, Mexico. Just a few hours later, Mexican neurosurgeons operated on him at the Cruz Verde Hospital in Mexico City. The axe had broken Trotsky's parietal bone and, after tearing the meninges, had damaged the encephalon. Despite the care provided by physicians and nurses, Trotsky passed away 25 hours after he was attacked, a victim of bleeding and shock. This article presents a review of Trotsky's last day, with special emphasis on the doctors who performed the surgery and who took care of the Russian revolutionary in his final moments. The results of Trotsky's autopsy are also discussed. The assassination of Leon Trotsky is one of the most dramatic events of the first half of the 20th century to have taken place on Mexican soil, and those final hours are an important moment in the history of Mexican neurosurgery and in the history of the world.

Classroom and Reality: What Should We Teach in Wilderness First Aid Courses?

Classroom and Reality: What Should We Teach in Wilderness First Aid Courses?

Accident on Mount McKinley

Accident on Mount McKinley

Confetti of Empire: The Conquest of Everest in Nepal, India, Britain, and New Zealand

The Conquest of Everest, the official film of the first ascent of Mount Everest, opens with the famous summit photograph of Tenzing Norgay holding aloft his ice axe, from which the flags of Britain, Nepal, India, and the United Nations flutter in the wind. Tenzing, a Sherpa raised in Nepal but for twenty years a resident of India, reached the summit with Edmund Hillary, a New Zealand beekeeper, on 29 May 1953, in a British expedition led by Colonel John Hunt. In the film, the summit photograph is followed by the opening credits and the scene in London on 2 June 1953, when news of the ascent was announced on the same day as Queen Elizabeth II's coronation. As crowds wave British flags to the beat of military bands, the Queen's gilded carriage rolls through ceremonial archways on the streets of London. The narrator then announces: “And to add to the cheers, the newspapers reported an extra of extras. Britain had one new victory: Men had climbed Mount Everest.”The Conquest of Everest, (1953), National Film and Television Archive, British Film Institute, London.

Growth Trajectories of Disk Crystals of Ice Growing from Supercooled Water

The time evolution of a disk crystal of ice with radius R and thickness h growing from supercooled water is studied using a solution of an ordinary differential equation (ODE) for h with respect to R. The growth of thickness, i.e., growth along the c axis of ice, is governed by slow molecular rearrangements on the basal plane and is expressed as a power function of the supercooling at the center of a disk face. Growth of the radius, i.e., growth in the basal plane, is controlled by transport of latent heat and is calculated by solving the diffusion equation for the temperature field surrounding the disk. We combine both functional expressions for growth rate to obtain an ODE for h as a function of R. Our analysis in the (R, h) plane is used to understand the recent results obtained experimentally by Shimada and Furukawa (J. Phys. Chem. 1997, B101, 6171−6173), in which they found two types of growth trajectories for ice disks prior to morphological instability.

The epidemiology of mountaineering and rock climbing accidents

From 1981 through 1986, 43631 climbers registered for climbs in the Grand Teton National Park, USA. There were 108 climbing accidents. The accident incidence was 2.5 accidents per 1000 climbers per year, or 5.6 accidents per 10000 climber-hours. There were 23 fatal accidents and 25 fatalities. Mountaineering appears to be a more hazardous activity than rock climbing; travel over snow or ice-covered terrain accounted for high numbers of accidents, climber errors, and fatalities. Effective use of proper equipment (ice axes and helmets), climber experience, self-reliance in difficult situations, and appreciation for the dangers involved in mixed (rock and snow) climbing are all preventive factors that can decrease accidents and injuries among climbers.

Morphological stability of disc crystals

Several phenomenological models of the solidification and subsequent morphological instability of a discshaped crystal of ice growing edgewise from pure, slightly undercooled water (≈ 0.9 C° or less) are developed. We assume that growth along the c axis of ice is virtually prohibited by slow interfacial kinetics but growth in the basal plane is controlled principally by the flow of heat. Thermal properties of solid and liquid are taken to be equal for tractability and Laplace's equation is solved to account for the nearly steady-state heat flow which is assumed to accompany growth of a completely submerged disc. This leads to an unperturbed growth rate. dR/ dt = (2πk/Lh) ΔT/ In (16 eR/h) for a disc of radius R large compared to its thickness h; here t is the time, k is the thermal conductivity of water, L is the latent heat of fusion per unit volume, and Δ T is the undercooling of the water bath below the melting point of ice. There is no strong size effect in agreement with experiment; but, agreement in the magnitude of the growth rate requires values of h several times smaller than observed. A model which accounts for additional losses of heat to ambient air via a boundary layer yields growth rates comparable to those observed provided that sufficiently large heat transfer coefficients can be justified. For a completely submerged disc, a critical radius above which the disc shape becomes unstable is calculated from perturbation theory.

The measurement of solid-liquid interfacial energies from the shapes of grain-boundary grooves

Abstract Experimental figures for the solid-liquid free energy, γSL, have been obtained for white phosphorus, for seven organic substances and for ice-water-sodium chloride systems having salt concentrations in the melt of 0 to 1 mol kg−1. The present work utilized observations made of grain-boundary grooves at solid-liquid interfaces in thin specimens; the latter were held in glass cells subjected to a temperature gradient. The groove shapes were characterized by employing the analysis of Nash and Glicksman in conjunction with electrical analogue models of heat flow in the specimen systems. In the case of the non-aqueous systems the interfacial energies obtained—expressed in mJm−2—were: white phosphorus, 12± 2; naphthalene, 61± 11; diphenyl, 50± 10; succinonitrile, 28± 4; camphene, 6± 1; ethylene dibromide, 35± 7; benzene, 44± 10; carbon tetrabromide, 10 to 20. In the case of the ice-water-sodium chloride system γSL, was found to vary roughly linearly with solute concentration and was 58± 15 mJm−2 for a salt concentration in the melt of 1 mol kg−1, as compared to 44± 10 mJm−2 for pure ice-water. The energies obtained for the aqueous systems relate to planes containing the c axis of ice. In most of the systems studied γSL was isotropic, but in the cases of naphthalene and diphenyl it was anisotropic to the extent of about 20%. In the case of the non-aqueous systems the interfacial energies obtained—expressed in mJm−2—were : white phosphorus, 12± 2; naphthalene, 61± 11; diphenyl, 50± 10; succinonitrile, 28± 4; camphene, 6± 1; ethylene dibromide, 35± 7; benzene, 44± 10; carbon tetrabromide, 10 to 20. In the case of the ice-water-sodium chloride system γSL, was found to vary roughly linearly with solute concentration and was 58± 15 mJm−2 for a salt concentration in the melt of 1 mol kg−1, as compared to 44± 10 mJm−2 for pure ice-water. The energies obtained for the aqueous systems relate to planes containing the c axis of ice. In most of the systems studied γSL was isotropic, but in the cases of naphthalene and diphenyl it was anisotropic to the extent of about 20%.

Crevasse rescue

In August 1946 John Tonkin, navigator at the Falkland Islands Dependencies Survey station on Stonington Island in Marguerite Bay, Graham Land, was leading a team of dogs half a mile from the station. As the path was a well-trodden one he was not wearing skis. Four other men were in the party. He was walking close in front of the lead dog when suddenly he disappeared down a hidden crevasse. Fortunately it was a very narrow one and he stuck about 40 ft. down, jammed by the thickness of his body, and with his legs hanging free. Other men were called from the station and came to his rescue with rope, but no pulley block. First, ropes with loops on their ends were lowered, and Tonkin managed to put his arms through the loops, and so acquire some feeling of security. The narrowness of the crevasse meant that a rescuer had to be lowered spread-eagled with his weight taken in loops of rope clove-hitched around the instep. It also prevented the free use of an ice axe, and the process of chipping Tonkin free was carried out slowly with the ferrule and spike sawn off the end of an ice axe. Two hours after the accident Tonkin was hauled to the surface by means of the original ropes looped round his arms. The strain of his weight on the ropes damaged the nerves of his arms, and a partial paralysis resulted for several months.