Handle Evaluation System For Fabrics Research Articles

Tactile evaluation of down jacket fabric by the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns

Down jacket fabric is greatly important in determining the quality of a down jacket. In order to enrich the research on fabric handle, subjective and objective evaluations were made for down jacket fabrics that were less studied. The comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns (CHES-FY) can be used to evaluate the tactile handle of the fabric by accurately and efficiently measuring the basic mechanical properties of the fabric. Therefore, the CHES-FY was used to link the objective evaluation with the subjective handle, so as to effectively estimate the total handle value of the down jacket fabric. Fifty-two kinds of down jacket fabrics were objectively tested through measuring 17 extracted parameters, and principal component analysis was adopted to establish the five main handle characteristics of fullness, softness, stiffness, smoothness, looseness and tightness to characterize basic style of the down jacket fabrics. The results showed that the subjective and objective results were in good agreement. These characteristics can be used as indicators to characterize fabric performance, and the principal component expression to characterize fabric handle can better predict the handle characteristics of down jacket fabrics. This also proves that the CHES-FY can quickly and accurately obtain the fabric handle value, and can also evaluate the fabric quality level.

Fuzzy clustering analysis of comprehensive hand of polyester fabric based on the CHES-FY system

Polyester fabrics are attributed with various performances and are currently applied widely in textiles. This necessitates a quick and effective selection process to choose polyester fabrics to correspond with engineers' designs for industrial textiles. Therefore, the main focus of this paper is to present the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns (CHES-FY), which has been specially developed to measure the basic handle of textile materials, including softness, stiffness, smoothness and tightness. Several kinds of polyester fabrics were chosen to undergo subjective evaluation and testing by the CHES-FY system, and were assigned into corresponding clusters by the K-means cluster method. The basic hand indexes of polyester fabric were featured. Comparisons between subjective judgments and the objective K-means cluster method were conducted. Experimental results show that a good correlation exists between subjective judgment and the objective cluster method, indicating that the four basic hand indexes measured by the CHES-FY system can be utilized to characterize the comprehensive hand of industrial polyester fabrics, and that the CHES-FY system can be used to discriminate categories of polyester fabrics.

Measurement of fabric handle characteristics based on the Quick-Intelligent Handle Evaluation System for Fabrics (QIHES-F)

A quick-intelligent handle evaluation system for fabrics (QIHES-F) was developed to evaluate tactile perceptions of fabric by measuring thickness and multiple mechanical properties of fabrics via a single testing process. The main aim dealt with in this study was to establish optimal and suitable regression models by a stepwise regression method based on the QIHES-F and human sensations of fabrics, thereby estimating total handle values effectively. Subjective evaluation by American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists EP5-2007 and objective tests by QIHES-F of a wide range of 50 fabrics were conducted, to predict fabric handle from four primary handle characteristics and total handle values. Five prediction models corresponding to the fullness, stiffness, roughness, tightness and total handle of fabrics were built based on featured indexes to analyze the relationship between the subjective handle and experimental curve parameters. The indexes were featured from the force-displacement curves of QIHES-F. The results show that these featured indexes can be treated as indicators to characterize fabric properties, and that the five corresponding prediction models can predict handle characteristics of fabrics reliably, as the Pearson’s coefficients and adjusted coefficients are high. They indicate that QIHES-F can directly and accurately obtain fabric handle values and can evaluate the grades of fabric quality.

In-situ characterization of handle characteristics of suiting woven fabrics by a simultaneous measurement method

The comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns (CHES-FY) was developed to measure multiple mechanical properties, which are related to fabric handle. In this paper, the potential ...

Experimental study on an effective method for the friction property of fabrics by the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns system

The main topic investigated in this paper is the effective measurement of the fabric friction property by the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns (CHES-FY). The optimal system parameters of the CHES-FY were determined using an orthogonal experiment design based on the correlations between four curve parameters from the pulling-out force – the displacement curve of the CHES-FY and the friction coefficient tested by the Kawabata evaluation system for fabric surface tester. The repeatability and stability of the CHES-FY under settings of optimal system parameters were also analyzed. Moreover, the four curve parameters were used to cluster the smoothness/roughness handle of fabrics objectively by the k-means cluster method, and the clustering results of the k-means cluster method were compared with those of the subjective cluster method. Analysis of the results showed that the selected optimal system parameters were a good combination, and the CHES-FY with the optimal system parameters provided an effective and reliable evaluation to the friction coefficient and smoothness/roughness handle of fabrics.

Multivariate analysis of curve parameters to predict fabric stiffness handle from a pulling-out test

The Comprehensive Handle Evaluation System for Fabrics and Yarns (CHES-FY) is capable of measuring multiple physical and mechanical properties of fabrics, which are related to fabric handle. In this study, ten curve parameters were defined from the pulling-out force–displacement curve of the CHES-FY. Factor analysis was used to remove the co linearity of the curve parameters in order to better characterize the stiffness handle of fabrics. Three principal factors were established using the factor analysis, and the first principal factor was termed the stiffness index based on loadings of the curve parameters to the rotated factors. Comparisons between the evaluation results of the CHES-FY, cantilever test, and newly-developed dual subjective/objective assessments showed that the CHES-FY, together with the stiffness index resulting from the factor analysis, provided a fast and effective method to characterize a fabric’s stiffness handle, and the evaluation process of the CHES-FY appears to closely simulate the tactile response to stiffness when a person touches or pinches a fabric.

Analysis of a quasi-three-point bending test for fabrics with friction and extensibility effect

This paper presents a theoretical bending model to investigate the quasi-three-point bending step of the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns (CHES-FY). The effect of the friction and extensibility of fabrics on the bending step of the CHES-FY is discussed based on the theoretical bending model in three cases, and bending parameters, including maximum bending force, linear fitting slope and bending work, are featured from the bending force–displacement curves of each case. Comparisons of the theoretical and experimental results were also conducted to validate the model. The results revealed that the friction effect tended to enhance the bending parameters of the bending force–displacement curve of the bending step, and the effect of the friction could be remarkable at low bending rigidity of samples. However, the effect of the extensibility of samples was almost negligible for the bending test of wear fabrics, as the maximal relative error was less than 11.7% for fabrics where the tensile elastic constant was higher than 0.1 N/cm·%. This work can also provide a theoretical guidance for improving the measurement accuracy of the three-point bending test.

Simulative analysis of the bending property of woven fabric by the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns

The comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns can be used to measure the bending property of fabrics and yarns based on three-point bending, in principle. In order to gain a better understanding of the bending mechanism of woven fabrics under three-point bending and to better interpret the influencing factors in the bending process, weaving-structure models of woven fabrics were built using finite element analysis based on ABAQUS software. Simulated bending force–displacement curves were compared with experimental curves based on the bending characteristic parameters extracted from the curves, and stress distribution on the fabric and the pressing pin were visually displayed during the bending process. The results show that the simulated curves have good agreement with the experimental curves. The effects of the property parameters of materials, including the Poisson’s ratio, friction coefficient and modulus of yarns and the structure phase and thread arrangement density of fabrics, as well as apparatus parameters, including diameters, the interval of the supporting pins and the distance of the jaws, on bending test were investigated. It is expected that the three-point bending method will help better characterize the bending property of textile materials.

Effect of bending rigidity, Poisson’s ratio and surface friction of fabrics on the stretching step of the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns

The main topic investigated in the present paper is the analysis of the effect of bending rigidity, Poisson’s ratio and surface friction of fabrics on the stretching step of the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns (CHES-FY) by using a theoretical tensile model. Simulated pulling-out force–displacement curves of the stretching step for several cases were investigated and compared with the experimental curves. The results showed that bending rigidity and surface friction of fabrics were the important factors that affected the test results of the stretching step. The slope of the simulated pulling-out force–displacement curve becomes larger by including the bending rigidity and surface friction of fabrics. However, the effect of Poisson’s ratio was small and was able to be neglected in the formulation of the model. In addition, the relationship between the bending indices, i.e. ω and k, and the diameter of the testing pins was discussed. It has been confirmed that the effect of the bending rigidity of fabrics on the pulling-out force–displacement curve strongly depended on the diameter of the testing pins. The model also detected that the surface friction effect became more remarkable for fabrics with a high tensile modulus.

In-situ Characterization of Fabric Thickness under Tension based on CHES-FY System

This paper details an effort to study the principle and the investigate feasibility of measuring dynamic thickness of fabric under tension based on a comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns (CHES-FY), which was developed to evaluate multiple mechanical properties of fabrics and yarns by a pull-out test. The initial thickness measured by CHES-FY system was compared with that by KES-FB system. Relationships between thickness strain and axial strain of fabrics were obtained from experimental and theoretical results so as to reveal out-of-plane Poisson's ratio. Effect of the horizontal distance between bi-U-shaped pins and the pulling pin on thickness is discussed. It is demonstrated that CHES-FY system can measure the dynamic thickness of fabric and characterize the out-of-plane Poisson's ratio effectively. The CHES-FY system would be helpful in analyzing thickness changes in the weaving and winding process when fabric is subjected to mechanical actions.

Fuzzy comprehensive prediction of fabric stiffness handle based on quasi-three-point restraint test

A new method of measuring and evaluating fabric stiffness handle based on the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics (CHES-FY) is introduced. The CHES-FY system can evaluate multiple mechanical properties and assess the fabric handle by a pulling-out test. In this article, a fuzzy comprehensive evaluation model is established to grade fabric stiffness handle based on the feature indices extracted from the pulling-out force and displacement curve of fabric measured by CHES-FY system. The entropy method is suggested to determine the weighting-factor vector of feature indices. The fuzzy conversion matrix is obtained on a series of membership functions that are achieved by investigating 47 fabric samples for feature indices. The correlation of fuzzy evaluation, subjective evaluation and the Kawabata primary hand evaluation is estimated statistically. The results show that the fuzzy model with entropy method resulting from the selected feature indices provides a simple and effective stiffness handle grading method and the evaluation method of CHES-FY system appears to closely estimating the fabric tactile response the human fingers feel when touching and pinching wear fabric.

Effects of parameters on mass index of the CHES-FY system

The main content dealt with in this paper is to discuss effects of parameters (bending rigidity, sample size and sensor resolution) on one featured index measured by the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns (CHES-FY) system, which is named as mass index utilized to on-line evaluate mass of fabric so as to make quick inspection on evenness of fabric under coating and finishing. Based on the deformation shape of fabric in the weighting step of the CHES-FY system, the mass index was featured from the pulling-out force and distance curve. Comparisons between the mass index measured by the CHES-FY system and mass by electronic balance were conducted. It shows that good correlation exists between theoretical and experimental values. Furthermore, effects of bending property and specimen size as well as sensor resolution were discussed, which indicated that variation of the mass index exhibited quadratic relations with bending rigidity of fabric. Moreover, the mass index’s result could be significantly improved to precisely evaluate mass of fabric by selecting both high resolution of sensor and specimen size in width. It demonstrates that the mass index can be adopted to characterize mass of fabric, and the CHES-FY system can be utilized to have on-line and accurate inspection on mass of fabric.

Determination of featured parameters to cluster stiffness handle of fabrics by the CHES-FY system

The main content dealt with in this paper is to present a new apparatus which can be used to evaluate stiffness handle of textile materials. The comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns (CHES-FY) is the kind of apparatus developed into measuring stiffness handle of fabric based on the pulling-out force and displacement curves. The present work aims to feature indexes from the above curves to explain stiffness handle of fabric. These indexes, including slope and area as well as peak value, were featured from the pulling-out force and displacement curves to discriminate stiffness handle of fabrics by K-means cluster method. In order to verify the effectiveness, the subjective judgments were also made and compared with the objective K-means cluster method. The experimental results show that a good correlation exists between the subjective judgment method and objective cluster method. It indicates that the indexes featured from the pullingout force and displacement curves can be utilized to characterize stiffness handle of fabrics, and the CHES-FY system is feasible in measuring stiffness handle of fabrics.

Jacobian Algorithm on Features Selection and Evaluation of CHES-FY System

The main content dealt with in the paper was to adopt fuzzy algorithm to select features for characterizing multiple physical properties, which were acquired from the pulling-out force and distance curve by a new apparatus. It was a comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns (CHES-FY), which can reflect weight, bending, friction and tension properties as well as stiffness tactile. The paper presented the structure and principle of the CHES-FY system, and the Jacobian algorithm and Karhunen-Loève (K-L) transformation were used to obtain several features selected from the pulling-out force and distance curve for the experimental fabrics. These features were proved to be effective in characterizing weight, bending, friction and tensile properties of fabric by comparisons with measured results by standard testers. There existed good correlations in utilizing these features selected by fuzzy algorithm to evaluate physical behaviour of fabrics. It indicated that it was greatly helpful for fuzzy method in the application of textile fabrics fields.

A comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics: II. Theoretical analyses and modeling of friction and tensile properties

Following the first part of this series, the friction and stretching steps of the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns (CHES-FY) are studied in this paper. By analyzing the friction and stretching principle and the structure of the CHES-FY, theoretical analyses and modeling of the friction between a fabric and a surface were made and the corresponding formula for the frictional coefficient was obtained; then, theoretical models of tensile characteristics were also constructed and corresponding formulae for tensile elastic constants with friction action were obtained. Comparisons of frictional coefficient and tensile elastic constant values between experimental results and theoretical prediction were conducted, and the results of the correlation coefficient show good agreement. It indicates that the method for measuring the frictional coefficient and tensile elastic constant was good at characterizing the frictional and tensile behavior of fabrics. It can be concluded that the theoretical models of friction and tensile properties are effective in characterizing the friction and tensile properties of fabrics, and the CHES-FY is feasible and accurate in measuring the friction and tensile properties of fabrics.

A comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics: I. Measurement and characterization of mass and bending properties

The main content dealt with in this paper is to present a new apparatus and a new method that can measure multiple mechanical properties through a single test in principle, which can be used for handle evaluation for textile materials. The comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns (CHES-FY) is a kind of apparatus that is capable of measuring mass, bending, friction and tensile behavior just through one pulling-out test, and is able to characterize the handle of fabrics, whose measurement principle and structure of the CHES-FY system in mass and bending steps are analyzed in the present paper. The shape of a hung fabric was captured by a digital camera, and its weight was calculated. Then, a three-point bending in principle was utilized to model and analyze the bending properties of the fabric, and the corresponding formula was obtained for calculating the bending rigidity of the fabric. The comparisons of mass and bending rigidity based on 17 fabrics have been conducted by using CHES-FY, electronic balance and KES-FB2, respectively. The measured results show that there are high correlations between the three measuring systems for fabrics. It indicates that the approach using CHES-FY is feasible and accurate in measuring and characterizing mass and bending rigidity.