Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy of a lipid spin label indicated that hair membrane fluidity is low in the cuticle region and high in the inner region comprising the cortex and medulla. This study evaluated the effect of hair treatments and dehydration on membrane fluidity and protein dynamics. In the cuticle region, treatment of hydrated hair with the ionic surfactants, sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS, anionic), cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (cationic), and N-hexadecyl-N,N-dimethyl-3-ammonio-1-propanesulfonate (zwitterionic), as well as the non-ionic Tween 80, caused notable increases in fluidity, with the anionic surfactant SDS having a lesser effect. Furthermore, oleic acid and the monoterpene linalool increased fluidity, while propylene glycol (at 50 %) reduced fluidity and showed the ability to extract the lipid spin label from hair membranes. In the cortex and medulla region, where lipid fluidity is high, the treatments did not cause any changes. For dry hair, membrane fluidity was significantly reduced both in the cuticle and in the inner region. For lipid-depleted hair (containing only covalently bound lipids), the spin label found membranes of high rigidity both in the cuticle and inner regions. In addition, protein dynamics in the peripheral and inner regions of the hair was evaluated using a protein spin label covalently attached to sulfhydryl groups. Dehydration was found to decrease protein dynamics while treatments with oleic acid, linalool, and ethanol caused small increases in the dynamics. Lower molecular dynamics of hair lipids and proteins could be associated with dehydration, lipid depletion, and stiffness through EPR spectroscopy analysis, while the physical presence of softeners and hair cleansers, such as surfactants, leads to an increase in lipid dynamics. EPR spectroscopy has potential application in determining how the molecular dynamics of lipids and proteins are related to the external appearance of hair.
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