Foreign References Research Articles

The Impact of Strategic Project Management on the Success of Construction Projects in the Contracting Sector in Riyadh

This study aimed to identify the impact of strategic management on the performance of construction projects in Riyadh. The impact was examined across dimensions including environmental analysis, strategy formulation, strategy implementation, and strategy evaluation, and measured against project efficiency, adoption of innovation, and sustainability. The research employed a descriptive and analytical approach, reviewing relevant Arabic and foreign references to establish theoretical foundations. Additionally, a field study was conducted through the distribution of questionnaires to construction project managers in Riyadh, Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. A total of 394 individuals participated in the study using a simple random sample method for data collection. The research yielded several key findings, indicating a high level of success in construction projects, with a strong positive correlation between strategic project management and project success in the Kingdom. Strategic project management was found to explain 78.9% of the changes in project success, with an increase of 1% in strategic project management correlating to a 0.391% increase in professional project success. However, the main hypothesis of the study was found to be invalid. Based on the results, recommendations were made, including the adoption of project management methods integrating strategic aspects and the encouragement of companies to implement continuous improvement of strategic project management practices to enhance long-term competitive capabilities.

Status of elevated blood pressure among Chinese children and adolescents aged 7-17 from 2016 to 2017 according to 4 different references

To describe and analysis the detection rate of high normal blood pressure and high blood pressure among Chinese children and adolescents aged 7-17 years from 2016 to 2017 according to the clinical practice guideline for screening and management of high blood pressure in Children and Adolescents published by the American Academy of Pediatrics(the AAP reference), the international blood pressure references among Children and Adolescents aged 6 to 17 years(the international reference), health industry standard of the People's Republic of China "Reference of screening for elevated blood pressure among children and adolescents aged 7 to 18 years(WS/T 610-2018)"(the industry reference) and updating blood pressure references for Chinese children aged 3 to 17 years(the guideline reference). Data was from the China Nutrition and Health Surveillance of Children and Lactating Women(2016-2017), in which the multistage stratified whole group random sampling method was used to draw participants from 275 surveillance sites in 31 provinces(autonomous regions and municipalities). In total, 67 231 participants were included according to the inclusion and exclusion criteria. Blood pressure was measured three times by trained staff using a validated oscillometric blood pressure monitor at the same point. The average blood pressure was calculated for the three measurements for SBP and DBP. To match the sampling design methodology, all values were weighted to represent the total population of Chinese children and adolescents 7-17 years of age considering sampling weights for each stratification based on the sixth population census data provided by the National Bureau of Statistics. The detection rate varied greatly under different references. The detection rate of high normal blood pressure was ranked from high to low according to the AAP reference(20.15%) > the guideline reference(17.29%) > the industry reference(13.14%) > the international reference(12.66%); the detection rate of high blood pressure in descending order is the guideline reference(24.31%) > the international reference(21.34%) > the AAP reference(20.59%) > the industry reference(19.96%). Although the consistency between the AAP references and international references and our national two references were medium to high, the difference in detection rate obtained by analysis was large. Considering the differences of demographic characteristics in the reference population, caution should be taken when applying foreign references to judge the blood pressure status of children and adolescents in China.

Bibliometric profile of graduate theses regarding “Medical and aromatic plants” in Türkiye

In this study, it is aimed to reveal the bibliometric profile of graduate (master's and doctorate) studies written on "Medical and Aromatic Plants" in Türkiye in terms of various criteria. For this purpose, the thesis search engine of the Council of Higher Education (CoHE) was searched with the keywords "medical and aromatic plants, aromatic plants and medical plants” in Turkish. As a result of the scanning, 149 graduate theses were identified and 7 of these theses are not open to access. Of the 142 theses, 118 are master's thesis, 23 are doctoral thesis, and 1 is a specialization in medicine. 42% of the graduate theses were conducted under the advisor of professors. The theses were written in many different universities and departments. It has been determined that biology is the subject most covered in graduate theses. Four graduate theses were written in English. 36% of the graduate theses used between 51-100 references. Foreign references were used more in the majority of theses. 77% of the theses were written in the range of 51-150 pages. Quantitative method was used as a method in the majority of theses. In terms of keywords, there is not keywords were used in 8 theses. The most frequently used keywords are medicinal plant(s), medicinal and aromatic plant(s) and aromatic plant(s), respectively. This study guides scientists who want to work on medicinal and aromatic plants.

Palestine between Reasonableness of Zionist Claims and the Legitimacy of the British Mandate

This study aims to study the legal nature of the British mandate over Palestine after World War I, in addition to studying the claims of the Zionist movement regarding its connection to the land of Palestine, thus determining the correct legal concept of the Question of Palestine in accordance with international law. The methodology of the study is the legal analytical and critical method and the Statute approach. In it, the author used Zionist, Jewish, Arab and foreign references. The results showed that the Zionist movement was established to unite the efforts of the Jews in Europe with the aim of establishing a national home for them in Palestine with the help of the colonial European countries under historical and religious arguments that completely contradict the facts and discoveries in Palestine. On the other hand, Britain's goal from the Balfour Declaration was to support the Zionist project in Palestine, thus helping to dismantle the Ottoman Empire and colonize the Arabian Peninsula with the participation of France. In addition, the British Mandate Deed for Palestine was only ratified by the Principal Allied Powers in World War I. Therefore, it did not reflect a real international will and thus was a violation of the provisions of international law.

Zachodnie nowinki na wileńskiej prowincji – wpływy niemieckich poetów na ballady filomatów

The article describes the influence of foreign, mainly German, literature on the ballads of the Philomaths – Tomasz Zan, Jan Czeczot and Adam Mickiewicz. The inspirations, references, and transformations of literary themes taken from German poets are presented in chronological order. The article begins with the answer to questions: why and how Zan used Lenora by Gottfried August Bürger in Neryna and Twardowski (common character and versification, intensifying the mood of horror). The full image of foreign references in this poet's work is completed by his version of Arion, based on the literary work by August Wilhelm Schlegel. Philomath used the character of a hero from Hellas, but he presented his fate in a dramatically condensed way. All these references lead to the conclusion that Zan transformed foreign threads in his own way, treating this activity as an exercise in his literary technique. A similar approach was shown by Jan Czeczot, who focused on native themes – but he added a large dose of humor, which was characteristic also of the most outstanding philosopher-writer, Adam Mickiewicz. The author of Ballady i romanse included in his collection a free translation of Friedrich Schiller’s Rękawiczka. He gave up the local color in it, creating a more “homely” version. In Świtezianka and Pierwiosnek, Mickiewicz referred to Johann Wolfgang Goethe. Świtezianka refers to Rybak with the motif of a fantastic figure emerging from the water. Pierwiosnek, like Fiołek, contains the lament of a metaphorical flower addressed to an insensitive lover. An analysis of Mickiewicz's references to his masters shows that this poet, like his friends, treated ballads as poetic exercises. He wanted to challenge his favorite writers. At the same time, these references confirm his manifestation of creative freedom. It turns out that the philomath ballads share the same approach to creation in this genre, which has been found in the example of transformations of material taken from foreign literature.

“The battle trumpet blown!” : Whitman’s Persian Imitations in Drum Taps

While Walt Whitman’s thematic use of the Orient continues to receive critical attention based on his explicit foreign references, aside from observations of specific Persian signifiers in “A Persian Lesson,” his engagement with the poetry of Iran has remained especially speculative and therefore analogical, with studies like J. R. LeMaster and Sabahat Jahan’s Walt Whitman and the Persian Poets showing how his mystical relation to his own religious influences tends to resemble the Sufism of Rumi and Hafez. A new discovery emerging from an examination of his personal copy of William Alger’s The Poetry of the East along with his reading of Emerson’s essay “Persian Poetry,” however, reveal a rather subtle yet sustained attempt to directly imitate the foreign verse throughout much of Drum-Taps. That his reliance upon identifiable foreign models to depict what he deemed his nation’s most significant historical moment further coincides with a dramatic shift in style of writing calls for closer comparative analysis of how and why he came to mimic translations of this poetry. Such a reading suggests that compared with previous Orientalist studies, Whitman appears even more personally invested in Persian verse, using it to surrender the distinct Romantic individuality of his earlier poems for the greater spiritual preservation of his conflicted nation.

How Constitutional Drafters Use Comparative Evidence

This article analyzes the transcripts of constitutional deliberations in two settings of third-wave democratization, Brazil and Ukraine. The focus is on the extent and kind of references to foreign countries and political institutions. Such references are relevant to the micro-foundations of theories of institutional diffusion. The evidence suggests that foreign references in constitutional debate are as frequent as are references to core concepts such as “democracy” and “freedom”. Also, actors employ foreign references mostly in order to attempt analytic comparisons across institutional models. These references mostly take the form of “endorsements” of the speaker’s favored policy, but a full third of them are negative examples (“warnings”), which lends credence to arguments about “aversive” diffusion mechanisms. Finally, the identity of countries referenced by Brazilian and Ukrainian constitution makers is analyzed. The ordering and profile of these target countries is remarkably similar despite differences in the cultural and geographic character of the two countries. Actors in both countries focused their attention on a small set of countries in the democratic “core”.

Enhancing graduate employability and the need for university-enterprise collaboration: تعزيزُ قابليةِ توظيفِ الخريجينَ والحاجةُ إلى التعاون بين الجامعات والمؤسسات

This study is adapted translation to a desk study of Tran, Thi Tuyet (2016) which addressed enhancing graduate employability and the need for university- enterprise collaboration. The researcher used the procedures of the analytical descriptive method, for that it was based mainly on the original study, and some other Arabic and foreign references, to clarify some issues , concepts and terms covered in the original study. The study aimed to highlight the issue of enhancing graduate employability, and the need for cooperation of universities with Operating institutions, therefore, the study focused on clarifying the concept of graduate employability as covered in related literature, then tried to define the justifications of universities' cooperation with the operating institutions. it also tried to review the forms of this cooperation and its benefits, after that the study shed light on the most prominent challenges facing this cooperation, Finally the researcher presented a set of recommendations and solutions that may contribute to enhancing graduate employability, addressed to universities, the private sector, governments and researchers.

MINERAL PROFILE OF LINGONBERRY (VACCINIUM VITIS-IDAEA L.), GROWING IN THE FOREST ZONE OF MAGADAN

Purpose. This study aimed to ascertain qualitative and quantitative mineral value of the Lingonberry fruit (Vaccinium vitis-idaea L.) that grows in the forest zone surrounding the city of Magadan. Materials and methods. Berry samples were collected from wild plants within the forest zone of Magadan city. Atomic emission spectrometry and inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry were used to determine amounts of twenty-five minerals and trace elements in the objects under study. Results and discussion. Amounts of Ca, K, Mg, Na, P, and Cu in the Lingonberry fruit (Vaccinium vitis-idaea L.) from the forest zone of Magadan tended to differ from similar variables available in database of chemical composition of those growing further in land of Russia, as well as Denmark, Norway, Slovakia, Finland, Sweden, and Estonia. A 100 g portion of the Lingonberry berries proved to meet an adult’s daily requirements for manganese (3,1±0,3 мг%) by 155%; siliceous (1,5±0,2 мг%) by 29%; selenium (9,8±1,5 мкг%) by 14%; boron (80,5±0,8 мкг%) by 4%; potassium (66,5±0,7 мг%) and copper (0,03±0,004 мг%) by 3%; zinc (0,2±0,02 мг%) and chromium (0,9±0,09 мкг%) by 2%; calcium (8,6±0,8 мг%), magnesium (5,1±0,5 мг%), phosphorus (8,0±0,7 мг%), iron (0,1±0,01 мг%), cobaltous (0,1±0,01 мкг%), vanadium (0,1±0,01 мкг%), and lithium (0,1±0,01 мкг%) by 1%; iodine (0,2±0,02 мкг%) by 0.1%. Lingonberry fruit samples were analyzed for toxic and heavy metal levels and no accelerated maximum permitted concentration was found which confirmed ecological safety of the place of traditional berry picking by the population. Conclusion. The obtained data on qualitative and quantitative mineral facts about the wild Lingonberries that grow in the forest zone of the city of Magadan can add information available in domestic and foreign references on chemical contents of foods.

جشم السطان عبدالحمید الثانی بمدینة استانبول دراسة آثاریة معماریة فنیة لنماذج مختارة

مستخلص البحث باللغة العربية لم تزل سقيا الماء وسبلها من أعظم القربات التى يبتغى بها الحکام والخلفاء، وعلية القوم والأثرياء، الأجر والثواب من الله، مما دفع القوم إلى التفنن فى تقديم تلک الصدقة فى أزهى صورها، فأوقفوا من أجلها الأوقاف، ورتبوا من أجلها الأعمال، وأقاموا لها البنايات. ولم يقتصر الأمر على ذلک، بل لقد أدى التنافس إلى ابتکارات لم يسبقهم إليها أحد، فظهرت لدينا الأسبلة ذات الطرز المختلفة، حتى استقر الأمر على ظهور الجشم التى تعد بحق من أبرز طرز الأسبلة التى انتشرت فى العالم الإسلامي عامة، وفى استانبول خاصة، خلال العصر العثماني. ولعل من أکثر الجشم تميزا وتفردا، تلک التى أنشئت زمن السلطان عبدالحميد الثانى باستانبول، لذلک رأيت أنه من الأهمية بمکان أن أفرد تلک الجشم بنوع من الدراسة المستفيضة تطبيقا على نماذج منتقاه، مع مراعاة أن تکون تلک النماذج متضمنة أغلب الأنماط مع عدم التکرار. وقد سارت الدراسة وفق خطة اشتملت على: تمهيد، دراسة وصفية، دراسة تحليلية، وخاتمة، وعدد من المراجع العربية والأجنبية، وأخيرا اشتمل البحث على مجموعة من الخرائط، الأشکال، والصور الفوتوغرافية. Abstract Water irrigation and its ways are still one of the greatest means sought by rulers and caliphs, the elite of the people and the wealthy, to seek reward and reward from Allah, which led the people to the mastery in offering this charity in its most beautiful form, so they set up endowments for it, arranged works for it, and set up buildings for it. Not only that, but the competition led to innovations, and so different styles appeared, until the matter settled on the appearance of the Cesme, which is rightly considered one of the most prominent types of the Sepil that spread in the Islamic world in general, and in Istanbul in particular, during the Ottoman era. Perhaps one of the most distinctive and unique Cesme was established during the time of Sultan Abdul Hamid II in Istanbul, so I thought it was important to study this Cesme in a thorough study, applying it to the selected models, considering that these models include most styles without repetition. The study proceeded according to a plan that included: an introduction, a descriptive study, an analytical study, a conclusion, and several Arab and foreign references. Finally, the research included a set of maps, figures, and photographs.

Mine Surveying Control of Wells

The article considers the problems of increasing the accuracy and reliability of processing of inclinometric and telemetric data. It provides the review of domestic and foreign references for the topic. It is noted that by no means all the tasks are solved methodically correctly and most effectively. The work proposes the method of processing the inclinometric survey data, which takes into account the data correlation of adjacent intervals. It also provides statistic solution of the task of determining the ellipsoid crossing, undetermined location of well bottom and design tolerance area. The algorithms proposed in the work are realized in program complex “Mining and geodetic networks and survey”. The analysis of error accumulation in determination of well bottom undetermined ellipsoid showed that calculation without taking into account the correlation of adjacent intervals underrates the final error, i.e. the size of undetermined ellipsoid by 20 – 40%. The determination of tolerance area sizes must be performed for a particular deposit or a group of deposits with similar mountainous and geological conditions. The increase in wellbore accuracy requires the increase of instrumental accuracy of telemetric and inclinometric devices.

EXAMINATION OF GRADUATE THESES CONDUCTED ON PRESCHOOL INCLUSION BETWEEN 2016-2020 IN TURKEY


 The aim of this study is to examine the current research trends in graduate theses on preschool inclusion in Turkey. Document analysis technique, one of the qualitative research methods, was used in the research. It was carried out on 31 graduate theses, which were obtained as a result of scanning the thesis archive of the Higher Education Council (YÖK) and were open to access between 2016 to 2020. The search was carried out by typing "pre-school integration" into the search engine of the Higher Education Institution's thesis archive. The theses included in the study were analyzed using the thesis analysis form prepared beforehand by the researchers. In the prepared form, the theses were analyzed according to the year, thesis level, university, institute, department, thesis supervisor title, research model, number of participants, data collection tool, data analysis method, and domestic and foreign references. The findings obtained within the framework of the examination were interpreted with percentage and frequency tables, and recommendations were made for future research.
 Key Words: Mainstreaming, preschool, thesis, document analysis.

The Identity Problem in the Diaspora Movies

Diaspora cinema is one of the manifestations of cinematic genres whose manifestations linked to concepts such as immigration, exile, and moving away from the homeland. It is the cinema of immigrants who gathered in second countries within communities or minorities. Immigrants have suffered from many problems, the most important of which is the lack of integration and fragmentation of the concept of identity between the mother homeland and the new homeland. This is evident in their cinematic works. Therefore, chapter one of the present study includes the research problem that is centered around the following question: What is the problem related to the concept of identity in the Diaspora cinema? The chapter also includes the objectives, significance, and limits of the present study. Chapter two is divided into three sections. Section one is entitled Identity between the fixed and the transformed. Section two is entitled The process of the film form in the Diaspora cinema. Section three is entitled The concern of identity in the visual patterns of the Diaspora cinema. The chapter is concluded with a set of indicators. Chapter three includes the research community, the research sample, the research tool, and the analysis of the sample that the researcher selected for research necessities, which is the film of (Mirrors of the Diaspora) by the Iraqi-British director (Qassim Abd). Chapter four includes the results and conclusions. The present study ends with Arab and foreign references.

Erythrocyte antigens and antibodies in the Chilean population

Abstract Chile does not have a national registry of immunohematologic test results; there are no data on the prevalence of erythrocyte antigens and the frequency of antibodies in this population. Therefore, foreign references are used for decision-making. In this study, a standard questionnaire was used in 74 laboratories of public and private establishments. The information from tests conducted in 2015 was requested: ABO and D typing, antibody detection, antibody identification, and erythrocyte phenotype. Prevalence for the ABO-D phenotypes were obtained at the country level (D+ [94.4%] and D– [5.5%]) and differ from those recorded in the white population (85% and 15%, respectively). Positive antibody detection results were found in 0.4 and 1.3 percent of blood donors and patients, respectively; the main specificities were anti-Lea, -E, and -D in donors and anti-D, -E, and -K in patients. Inconclusive results were observed in ABO-D typing and antibody identification in donors and patients; these samples were referred to immunohematology reference laboratories for resolution. From this study, it was possible to estimate the prevalence of erythrocyte antigens and the frequency of antibodies at the national level, and this step allows us to characterize Chile’s population of blood donors and transfusion recipients and to compare the results and frequencies with other populations or countries.

Comportamento de sistemas de vedação vertical externa frente ao ensaio de ação de calor e choque térmico

Um dos requisitos abordados pela NBR 15575:2013, mais conhecida por Norma de Desempenho (ND), está relacionado com a durabilidade das edificações e estabelece como método de avaliação o ensaio de Ação de Calor e Choque Térmico (ACCT), que verifica o comportamento de Sistemas de Vedação Vertical Externa (SVVE) frente a mudanças bruscas de temperatura. O objetivo do trabalho foi verificar o item durabilidade proposto na norma brasileira e contrastar os resultados de diferentes sistemas construtivos frente ao ensaio de ACCT, bem como comparar as prescrições de ensaio de ACCT em diferentes Normas internacionais. O método envolveu a coleta de dados de ensaios já realizados de acordo com a ABNT (2013b). Assim, constatou-se a existência de diversos métodos sendo empregadas para realização do mesmo ensaio, inclusive com variação da dimensão das amostras. Em relação a outras normativas, verifica-se que a norma brasileira é mais branda, devido ao ensaio ter o menor número de ciclos e com menor duração. Constatou-se, também, a facilidade na aprovação ao requisito de desempenho previsto na norma e, que há lacunas de especificação que dificultam a padronização dos procedimentos de ensaio, tais como: tempo de aspersão e temperatura da água.

A systematic review of the thesis on language and communication skills of individuals with autism spectrum disorder

αThis study is a content analysis study in which thesis indexed in YOK National Thesis Center of Turkey about teaching language and communication skills in autism spectrum disorder are examined in terms of various variables. For this purpose, 17 open-access theses were obtained based on an extensive search and examined. The results of the research were arranged according to sub-problems and presented in descriptive form as frequency and percentage tables. This study aims to determine the current trends in the postgraduate thesis written on teaching language and communication skills to individuals with ASD between the years of 2014 and 2019. The postgraduate thesis were analyzed based on previously determined content analysis criteria including year of publication, thesis level, title of thesis supervisor, university, institute, department, research method, participants, number of native and foreign references, location and research subject. When the needs of families with children with autism spectrum disorder or at risk are considered in our country, it is clearly seen how much work is needed and how important these studies are. Supporting teaching practices that take into account the individual differences of individuals with autism, conducting new researches and comparing the results, will develop new perspectives and contribute to the literature.

The Grand Maitreya Project of Mongolia: A Colossal Statue-cum-Stupa for a Happy Future of ‘Loving ♡Kindness’

ABSTRACT This paper questions the current construction of a 54 metres statue of Maitreya against a 108 metres stupa in the steppe south of Ulaanbaatar, that will stand at the edge of a new ‘eco-city,’ Maidar City. The Grand Maitreya Project (GMP) was initiated in 2009 by H. Battulga, businessman and MP (before he was elected president of Mongolia). The project aims to be ‘one of the largest Buddhist complex in the world,’ and now is a ‘National project for reviving traditional Buddhist education and culture.’ I propose to use religious and art-historical approaches in order to document the ‘birth’ of a Buddhist project, with a special interest in the long process of conception, fundraising and promotional programme. Relying on recent studies on the entanglement of Buddhism, politics, culture, consumerization and tourism that gave rise to new cultual modalities, and on studies of colossal statues recently built in Asia, this article asks what the GMP tells us about modern Mongolian politics and public religious culture. What are the sources of inspiration and foreign references of the GMP? Is it a religious monument that will benefit from the tourist economy, a tourist attraction, or a unifying, nationalist symbol of 21st-century Mongolia?

Ølby Woman:

The Early Nordic Bronze Age oak coffin burials include some of Europe’s best preserved human remains. Although traditional typological examinations thereof have not always found clear foreign references, recent provenance investigations from Egtved and Skrydstrup suggest that the two women were of non-local provenance. In order to investigate potential mobility patterns and how these might or might not be related to the archaeological evidence, we conducted comprehensive multi-analytical investigations on the Ølby Woman, another key female oak coffin burial. Her grave included large metal items, the remains of a corded skirt and a glass bead recently identified as of Egyptian origin. Strontium isotope analyses of the dental enamel of Ølby’s first, second and third molars investigate her provenance and potential mobility through childhood. Furthermore, we conducted lead isotope analyses and craft technical analyses of her belt plate and sword/dagger. Our results reveal that the Ølby female’s strontium isotope signatures fall within the local baseline, suggesting that she was of local origin. The metal provenance studies and craft technical studies of the belt plate and sword suggest that the objects were manufactured in Scandinavia, while the raw materials for each item were imported from different places in Europe.

EFFICIENCY OF RAW GLUTEN CONTENT PREDICTION IN WHEAT KERNELS

The conducted regression analysis allowed us to obtain the equation of multiple nonlinear regression, which reflects the dependence of the raw gluten content in wheat kernels (Y, %) on the protein content (X1 = Ntotal · 5.7, %) and 1000-kernel weight (X2, g): Y = -41.928 + 0.081Х1 2 + 2.548Х2 - 0.028Х2 2. In the presented equation, all quality indicators are given at 12% humidity. If protein content and/or 1000-kernel weight are determined for absolutely dry matter (a.d.m.), the developed equation to predict raw gluten content in wheat kernels is recalculated with the use of coefficients of 0.88 and 1.136, respectively. The purpose of the research is to identify the effectiveness of raw gluten content prediction in wheat kernels using the developed regression equation, which reflects its dependence on protein content and 1000-kernel weight. There have been developed and presented an algorithm and results of testing the predictive capabilities of the equation based on independent data. That is, using experimental data on protein and gluten content, and 1000-kernel weight obtained by other researchers in the experiments with different wheat varieties and in other soil and climatic conditions. The summarized experimental data of 124 Soviet, Russian and foreign literary references with a total number of observations n = 2485 on more than a hundred wheat varieties grown from 1959 to 2019 in various soil and climatic zones of the USSR, Russia and abroad have shown that the number of values beyond the limits regulated by GOST R 54478 - 2011 (± 2%) was 462 or 18.6% of the total number of observations. The accuracy of the raw gluten content prediction in wheat kernels was 81.4%. The developed equation can be used to predict raw gluten content in kernels of various winter and spring soft and durum wheat varieties.

The Lévite Dress: Untangling the Cultural Influences of Eighteenth-Century French Fashion

During the final decades of the eighteenth century, France saw a massive vogue for women’s clothing styles that, while adhering to the fundamental norms of French dress, were directly influenced by Ottoman clothing. One of the most popular of these was the levite, a dress that was introduced in the late 1770s and continued in popularity through the late 1780s. Inspired by costumes worn in a staging of Racine’s play “Athalie,” which is set in the ancient Biblical era, the levite initially mimicked the lines of Middle Eastern caftans. Over time, the style developed into at least three different variations, connecting and merging with other popular French fashions with their own foreign influences, including the English-inspired robe a l’anglaise and redingote, as well as the Caribbean-derived chemise a la reine. In French fashion of this period, the “Deep Local” was a place where long-established dress forms merged and played with the concepts of “foreign” and “exotic.” Through a myriad of soures, including costume albums, traveller’s accounts, paintings and other artwork, masquerades, and the theater, Paris and Versailles themselves served as cross-cultural contact zones in which French people absorbed and adapted information about the dress of other nations. Drawing on sources including contemporary fashion magazines, personal and published writings, and artwork, this presentation will focus on understanding the levite as a fashion that began as a cultural fusion, then adapted and intertwined with other popular styles with their won foreign references. The levite’s cultural fluidity makes it an excellent lens through which to examine how French people used dress to experiment with and redefine national and cultural identity in the late eighteenth century.