Finishing Of Wool Fabrics Research Articles

Improvement in dyeing and physical properties of wool fabrics through pretreatment based on the bacterial culture of Stenotrophomonas maltophilia DHHJ

Wool fiber is a valuable natural material in the textile industry, but keratin cuticles on its surface can deteriorate product quality. Wool fabric finishing has a long-standing problem in meeting the goal of environmental sustainability. In this study, we developed an eco-friendly simple method of wool fabric treatment based on direct incubation with the whole culture of Stenotrophomonas maltophilia DHHJ, a keratinase-producing bacterial strain. This processing method effectively reduced roughness for the surface of wool fiber and wool fabric samples by removing the cuticle scales. The keratinolytic treatment altered many physical properties of the wool fabrics, such as felting shrink, bursting strength, elongation at break, and diameter. The dyeability of wool fabric was substantially improved due to the pretreatment. The surface modification accelerated the rate of dyeing-bath exhaustion for wool fabric samples under a mild processing condition and the dyeing equilibrium was achieved within 10 min at a relatively low dyebath temperature (below 70°C). The pretreatment with the keratinase-secreting bacterial culture was beneficial for dyeing uniformity and rubbing color fastness. Besides, the fuzzing and pilling properties of wool fabrics were ameliorated in the fabric samples incubated with the bacterial culture.

Technology and application of shape memory polymers in textiles

PurposeShape memory polymers (SMPs) respond with a change in their shape against a specific stimulus by memorizing their original shape and are reformed after deformation most often by changing the temperature of the surrounding without additional mechanical efforts. In the coming years, these polymers indeed will be in limelight to manufacture textile materials which will retain their shape even after prolonged use under disturbed conditions. This study aims at defining shape memory materials and polymers as well as their technological characteristics and also highlights application in various fields of textiles.Design/methodology/approachThe methodology used to explain these SMPs have been carried out starting with the discussion on their properties, their physical nature, types, viz., shape memory alloys (SMAs), shape memory ceramics, shape memory hybrid, magnetic shape memory alloy, shape memory composites, shape memory gels and SMP along with properties of each type. Other related details of these polymers, such as their advantages, structure and mechanism, shape memory functionality, thermally responsive SMPs and applications, have been detailed.FindingsIt has been observed that the SMPs are very important in the fields of wet and melt-spun fibers to offer novel and functional properties, cotton and wool fabric finishing, to produce SMP films, foams and laminated textiles, water vapor permeable and breathable SMP films, etc.Originality/valueThe field of SMPs is new, and very limited information is available to enable their smooth production and handling.

Promotional Effect of Ionic Liquid on the Enzymatic Shrink-Resistant Finishing of Wool Fabrics

In the paper, wool samples were pretreated by [BmiCl ionic liquid, followed by protease. The effect of ionic liquid pretreatment on the enzymatic shrink-resistant finishing of wool fabrics was studied. The results showed that the epicuticle was damaged by pretreatment, and the wettability of wool fabric was improved. These changes of wool surface made a promotional effect on proteolytic reactions. They could remarkably improve the accessibility of protease and thus increasing the efficiency of protease treatment. The weight loss of the sample pretreated with ionic liquid was dramatically increased, and the encouraging shrink-resistance was also achieved after the combination of ionic liquid and protease treatments.

Environmental-friendly wool fabric finishing by some water plant extracts

In this article, environmental-friendly finishing of wool fabric were processed with several water extract plants, such as hibiscus, St. John's wort, and marigold. The plant extracts have good basis in the commercial dyeing of wool, for garment and carpet industry. At the same time, the environmental-friendly finishing by water extracts plants shows very good fastness of the antimicrobial properties and coloration of wool fabric. From an ecological viewpoint, the substitution of chemical dyes with "natural products" may represent not only a strategy to reduce risk and pollutants but also an opportunity for new markets and new businesses, which can expend involving of ecology in trade policy.

Enzymatic Finishing of Wool Fabrics

SUMMARY The objective of the present work is to evaluate the action of a protease when applied on a high quality wool fabric to obtain an improved touch and drape on the fabric as well as to decrease its shrinkage and pilling propensity. The effectiveness of the enzymatic treatment as well as the intensity of the attack to the wool fibre are evaluated by determining several mechanical and chemical parameters.

Objective Evaluation of Wool Fabric Finishing

The paper reviews the use of objective tests in wool fabric finishing and in evaluating new finishing technologies. Examples of the use of objective measurement in common finishing problems are included.

Measuring and Interpreting Low-Stress Fabric Mechanical and Surface Properties

The concept of using engineering principles as an aid in designing textile fabrics with desirable aesthetic characteristics is further developed. Fundamental to this ap proach is the measurement of fabric mechanical and surface properties, e.g., fabric tensile, shear, bending, surface, and lateral compression properties. Examples are cited of the application of these measurements to fabric finishing, drycleaning, and steam pressing, and also to the study of photodegradation effects in wool fabrics. The study has quantified the effect of scouring (during finishing of wool fabrics) and heat setting/ scouring (during finishing of wool/polyester fabrics) in reducing the rigidities and hysteresis in fabric bending and shear deformations. A marked reduction after paper pressing in fabric compressibility, thickness, and surface roughness for both wool and wool/polyester fabrics is also evaluated quantitatively. The important influence of decatizing and chemical setting on the performance of pure wool fabrics during dry cleaning and steam pressing operations is evaluated and discussed. Wool photodeg radation results in a substantial fabric tensile strength loss, marked increase in the bending and shear hysteresis and rigidities, and also a decrease in the tensile and compressional resilience.

Use of Micellar Systems as Vehicles for Hercosett and Hydrogen Peroxide Finishing of Wool Fabrics

The use of micellar systems as vehicles for applying Hercosett resin and hydrogen peroxide on virgin wool has been investigated. For this purpose phase diagrams of micellar solutions with Hercosett resin and nucleophilic reagent were produced to determine the corresponding areas of monophasic solubility. The shrink resistance conferred to treated wool and the damage produced in the physico-chemical properties of keratin fibers have also been investigated.

STUDIES ON CYSTINE IN WOOL

Crabbing, well known wool setting process, often causes undesirable effects on wool fabric finishing. In order to improve these undesirable effects in setting process, we studied the application of “Cold Set” in which mercapto acid is used, To estimate the total sulfhydryl content and the adsorbency of the mercapto acid on reduced wool, suitable conditions for the phospho-18-tungstic acid method or modified method described with zahn.Results obtained are as follows.:1) Generally, under the severe conditioning and hydrolysis on reduced wool, detected values of -SH decrease. However, -SH detections in highly reduced wool which is heated at low temperature increase.2. For reduced wool, the moderate hydrolysis conditions are preferable where as for untreated wool -SH and -S-S- determination method are used. Factors for moderate condition are 20% HCl, 105°C and 3 hr.3) When untreated wool is hydrolysed in presence of free mercapto acid. A definite amount of mercapto acid disappeared.